---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 12/06/14: 12 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:45 AM - Re: Plasma III - Cooling Port (RV10@TEXASRV10.COM) 2. 04:53 AM - Re: Red cube fire sleeve (rvdave) 3. 05:16 AM - Re: Re: Red cube fire sleeve (Linn Walters) 4. 05:18 AM - Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (Bill Watson) 5. 05:32 AM - Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (rv10flyer) 6. 06:51 AM - Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (Bill Watson) 7. 07:34 AM - Re: Red cube fire sleeve (rvdave) 8. 08:00 AM - Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (Jesse Saint) 9. 09:51 AM - Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (Bob Turner) 10. 10:03 AM - Re: Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (Jesse Saint) 11. 01:56 PM - Glare screen (Terry Moushon) 12. 03:44 PM - Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (Alan Mekler MD) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:45:55 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Plasma III - Cooling Port From: "RV10@TEXASRV10.COM" Phil, The 750 fan will be on most of the time during normal Texas operations. As o thers have mentioned concerning moving the hot air under the panel.... More c ooling certainly wouldn't hurt! Gaylon Koenning > On Dec 5, 2014, at 10:56 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > I'm not sure if the 750 has an internal fan or if it just has a really lar ge heat sink. I do know there isn't a cooling port on it. > > But I'm thinking, since I will have an extra blower ports available, I mig ht direct one of the extras toward it to assist in removing heat off the hea t sink. Again, not required, but it won't hurt. > > The only device I have behind the panel that requires cooling is the Plasm a III. And even that is debatable if it's mounted in a cool spot (mine is o n the subpanel). Many of the earlier 6 cylinder models don't even have the port. > > On the topic of fans, I have two in the top of the upper fuse. They are s imply defoggers (not defrost - heat isn't required). So the goal is to keep air moving and if it will exhaust some heat from under than panel then all t he better. > > On a monumental building note, I think I will be doing my first power up w ith the panel temporarily wired up to the airframe on Tuesday. If it goes w ell then I can get started on the permanent installation. Very excited! I t's been a long time coming. 7.5 years to this point. :) > > Phil > > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Dec 5, 2014, at 10:02 PM, Rick Lark wrote: >> >> Hey Phil, don't you have a G750 with it's own fan? I have 2 5" computer t ype fans in the upper fuse which should be all sorts of cooling (along with m y G650). Unless you have a 430W/530W you shouldn't need Steins fan,......or am I missing something? >> >> Rick >> >>> On Fri, Dec 5, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Phillip Perry wr ote: >>> Apologies for this, but I'm about 200 miles from the airplane and orderi ng parts. >>> >>> Do any of you recall the size of the cooling port on the Lightspeed Plas ma III? The dimensions for the port are not included in their documentation .. >>> >>> The question above is the most important one... >>> >>> But I'd also be curious to know if any of you have found a way to provid e reliable cooling air with a more commercialized (think Mouser, Digikey, et c) blower. Right now I'm leaning toward shelling out a few hundred dollars t o Aircraft Spruce for an avionics blower. >>> >>> Phil >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _blank">www.aeroelectric.com >>> .com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com >>> ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com >>> ="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com >>> ank">www.mrrace.com >>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >>> tp://forums.matronics.com >>> >> >> >> >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> ot;">www.aeroelectric.com >> books.com"">www.buildersbooks.com >> quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com >> quot;">www.mypilotstore.com >> ">www.mrrace.com >> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> //forums.matronics.com >> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >> > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:53:16 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Red cube fire sleeve From: "rvdave" Actually after looking at the acs firesleeve mentioned I see it's the same dimension that I have already so back to square one. I guess I'll wrap with cut pieces of sleeving and clamp. I was looking to know if anyone else had the cube in this location and their experiences with heat whether it's a factor or not. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435410#435410 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:16:58 AM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Red cube fire sleeve Dave, please take this with a grain of salt .... I'm still building ..... but from my perspective you're spending a lot of time on a solution to a problem that just doesn't exist. I can't speak to the red cube specifically, but so far I've had really good results from various flow senders mounted .... naked .... in the engine compartment. There was one failure from a sender that came with my Piper that had 1800 hours on it. That was many years ago and I'm sure technology has improved since that one was manufactured. Linn On 12/6/2014 7:51 AM, rvdave wrote: > > Actually after looking at the acs firesleeve mentioned I see it's the same dimension that I have already so back to square one. I guess I'll wrap with cut pieces of sleeving and clamp. I was looking to know if anyone else had the cube in this location and their experiences with heat whether it's a factor or not. > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435410#435410 > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:18:15 AM PST US From: Bill Watson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antisplataero gust lock review Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'. Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar It has a few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution. * IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant - the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very well) * and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway * and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else is out there. * THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the handle jams into the front of the cushions with an over-center kind of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds * and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and Bogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If you leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted. * And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the whole thing more secure and fool proof. What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and the rudder pedals - go figure. The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips - the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar users out there already who do the same thing(?). I should take a few pics and post but haven't. Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote: > I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 > As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of > the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the > way it is today will NOT work for you. > http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html > Pascal > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:32:12 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Antisplataero gust lock review From: "rv10flyer" I have used the Bogi-Bar for 3 yrs too. [quote="Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com"]Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'. Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php) It has a few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution. IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant - the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very well) and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else is out there. THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the handle jams into the front of the cushions with an over-center kind of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and Bogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If you leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted. And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the whole thing more secure and fool proof. What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and the rudder pedals - go figure. The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips - the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar users out there already who do the same thing(?). I should take a few pics and post but haven't. Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote: > I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414) > As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is today will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html (http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html) > > Pascal > > > > [b] -------- Wayne G. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435413#435413 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:51:20 AM PST US From: Bill Watson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antisplataero gust lock review (I'm going to repost without the bulleted list - it displayed back badly to me:) Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'. Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar It has a few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution. - IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant - the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very well) - and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway - and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else is out there. - THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the handle jams into the front of the cushions with an over-center kind of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds. - and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and Bogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If you leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted. - And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the whole thing more secure and fool proof. What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and the rudder pedals - go figure. The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips - the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar users out there already who do the same thing(?). I should take a few pics and post but haven't. Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote: > I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. > http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 > As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of > the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the > way it is today will NOT work for you. > http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html > Pascal > * > > > * > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:34:54 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Red cube fire sleeve From: "rvdave" Linn, you're probably right--- I think just to satisfy my gut I'll wrap it and move on, thanks. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435417#435417 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:00:17 AM PST US From: Jesse Saint Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antisplataero gust lock review For the bogi bar, just extent the handle and put it up against the seat back and seat belt it down. Works great. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 6, 2014, at 8:16 AM, Bill Watson wrote: > > Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'. > > Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for al most 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar It has a few 'ifs' as well but if th e logic tree works for you, it may be a solution. > IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless heads of c ap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant - the Bogi-bar fits a round those for towing and works very well) > and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out there? Do n't know, probably will work the same anyway > and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else is o ut there. > THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the collap sed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the rudder pedals. T he round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in the gap at the bottom of t he standard pedals and the handle jams into the front of the cushions with a n over-center kind of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds > and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and B ogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If yo u leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like it will move and t he ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim springs - but I always ad d the bungee. Wrapping a little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it t ouches the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted. > And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on tabs t o the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the whole thing more secur e and fool proof. > What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed Bog i-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and the rudd er pedals - go figure. > > The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips - t he Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and hand towi ng around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar users out ther e already who do the same thing(?). > > I should take a few pics and post but haven't. > > Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson > > >> On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote: >> I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http:/ /www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 >> As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the s tick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is t oday will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultim ate_Gust_Lock.html >> >> Pascal > > > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:51:10 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Antisplataero gust lock review From: "Bob Turner" I too extend it against the seat back. belt it down. I put some Home Depot pipe insulation in the triangle of the bar that the stick goes thru. I use the other seat's seat belt to hold the sticks firmly against the Boggie bar/pipe insulation. No need to carry extra cords. I don't weld, so I used some hose clamps to hold the front tabs on. [quote="jesse(at)saintaviation.co"]For the bogi bar, just extent the handle and put it up against the seat back and seat belt it down. Works great. Jesse SaintI-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org (jesse@itecusa.org) www.itecusa.org (http://www.itecusa.org) www.mavericklsa.com (http://www.mavericklsa.com) C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone On Dec 6, 2014, at 8:16 AM, Bill Watson wrote: > Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'. > > Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php) It has a few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution. > IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant - the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very well) and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else is out there. > THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the handle jams into the front of the cushions with an over-center kind of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and Bogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If you leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted. And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the whole thing more secure and fool proof. What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and the rudder pedals - go figure. > > The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips - the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar users out there already who do the same thing(?). > > I should take a few pics and post but haven't. > > Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson > > > On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote: > > > > I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414) > > As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is today will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html (http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html) > > > > Pascal > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [b] -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435421#435421 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:03:23 AM PST US From: Jesse Saint Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Antisplataero gust lock review Send it to me & I'll have it welded for you. I have been doing the towbars like this for about 8 years. It is always with you and works great. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse@saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad > On Dec 6, 2014, at 12:49 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > > I too extend it against the seat back. belt it down. I put some Home Depot pipe insulation in the triangle of the bar that the stick goes thru. I use the other seat's seat belt to hold the sticks firmly against the Boggie bar/pipe insulation. No need to carry extra cords. > I don't weld, so I used some hose clamps to hold the front tabs on. > > > [quote="jesse(at)saintaviation.co"]For the bogi bar, just extent the handle and put it up against the seat back and seat belt it down. Works great. > > Jesse SaintI-TEC, Inc. > jesse@itecusa.org (jesse@itecusa.org) > www.itecusa.org (http://www.itecusa.org) > www.mavericklsa.com (http://www.mavericklsa.com) > C: 352-427-0285 > O: 352-465-4545 > F: 815-377-3694 > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Dec 6, 2014, at 8:16 AM, Bill Watson wrote: > > > >> Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'. >> >> Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/bogibars2.php) It has a few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a solution. >> IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant - the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very well) and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what else is out there. >> THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the handle jams into the front of the cushions with an over-center kind of fit that will stay in place in heavy winds and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the stick and Bogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and elevator. If you leave this off, it still works well in most situations since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator doesn't seem like it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped out by the trim springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches! > the stick is a good idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted. And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the whole thing more secure and fool proof. What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and the rudder pedals - go figure. >> >> The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips - the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar users out there already who do the same thing(?). >> >> I should take a few pics and post but haven't. >> >> Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson >> >> >> On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote: >> >> >>> I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 (http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414) >>> As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is today will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html (http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html) >>> >>> Pascal >> >> [b] > > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435421#435421 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:56:37 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Glare screen From: Terry Moushon Looking down the road at what I might do to cover my glare screen. My windows are not in. Has anyone temporally covered the glare screen with BID fiberglass and then applied a cover to that so it is easily replaceable? Both "successes" and "won't do that again" welcome. Thanks ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 03:44:24 PM PST US From: Alan Mekler MD Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antisplataero gust lock review I have wild blue innovations gust buster and it works great Alan Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 5, 2014, at 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote: > > I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. http:// www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 > As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of the s tick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, the way it is t oday will NOT work for you. http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Loc k.html > > Pascal > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.