---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 12/10/14: 4 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:58 AM - Re: Heater control cables (dhmoose) 2. 04:08 PM - Re: Antisplataero gust lock review (Bill Watson) 3. 06:49 PM - Custom Shirts (Jesse Saint) 4. 09:12 PM - Manifold pressure with G3X (bob88) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:58:46 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Heater control cables From: "dhmoose" Rich has it right. I installed the TCW oil cooler valve and it works perfectly. The temps Rich mentioned are exactly right and its nice to be able to adjust as needed in flight. I did it...and I would do it again. Only improvement I could see is if it was handled automatically like your home thermostat. Set the temp...and let the valve regulate to achieve the desired temp :) David -------- David Halmos RV-10 Flying! Portland, OR Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435555#435555 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:08:56 PM PST US From: Bill Watson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Antisplataero gust lock review I photo documented my use of the Bogi-bar as a gust control lock here FYI. It works for me. Bill Watson On 12/6/2014 9:49 AM, Bill Watson wrote: > (I'm going to repost without the bulleted list - it displayed back > badly to me:) > > Looks like a good unit with a few 'ifs'. > > Another solution that I'm sure I picked up here and have been using > for almost 3 years now is a modified Bogi-bar > It has a > few 'ifs' as well but if the logic tree works for you, it may be a > solution. > > - IF the Bogi-bar works as a tow bar for you (I have the stainless > heads of cap screws extending from the sides of my nosewheel pant - > the Bogi-bar fits around those for towing and works very well) > > - and IF you have Oregon Aero cushions - are there any others out > there? Don't know, probably will work the same anyway > > - and IF you have the standard rudder pedals - I am unaware of what > else is out there. > > - THEN you can move either seat to the rear most position and jam the > collapsed Bogi-bar between the front of the seat cushion and the > rudder pedals. The round tow pin receivers on the bar will hold in > the gap at the bottom of the standard pedals and the handle jams into > the front of the cushions with an over-center kind of fit that will > stay in place in heavy winds. > > - and THEN you can take a short bungee cord and tie it around the > stick and Bogi-bar in any one of several ways to lock the ailerons and > elevator. If you leave this off, it still works well in most > situations since the rudder is the real culprit in winds, the elevator > doesn't seem like it will move and the ailerons are pretty much damped > out by the trim springs - but I always add the bungee. Wrapping a > little friction tape around the Bogi-bar where it touches the stick is > a good idea. This works independent of how the stick is wired or booted. > > - And IF all the above works for you, you can THEN add some welded on > tabs to the bottom of the Bogi-bar (half washers work well) to key > into the gap at the bottom of the standard rudder pedals to make the > whole thing more secure and fool proof. > > What makes all this work is the improbable accident that the collapsed > Bogi-Bar is exactly the right length to fit between the front seat and > the rudder pedals - go figure. > > The advantage for me is there is only one item to carry along on trips > - the Bogi-Bar - which I use for backing my '10 out of the hangar and > hand towing around ramps. I assume there is a fair number of Bogi-bar > users out there already who do the same thing(?). > > I should take a few pics and post but haven't. > > Bill "thinking about some proficiency work with 600' ceilings" Watson > > > On 12/5/2014 8:01 PM, Pascal wrote: >> I just posted a review of the Gust lock from antisplataero on VAF. >> http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=939414#post939414 >> As Bob Leffler commented, if you have wires routed on the outside of >> the stick, versus inside (as I did) this gust lock, with retainer, >> the way it is today will NOT work for you. >> http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html >> Pascal >> ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:49:37 PM PST US From: Jesse Saint Subject: RV10-List: Custom Shirts Copied from my post on VAF: We have been doing this for a little while as we learn how to use our new machine, but I wanted to offer this service to users of VAF somewhat commercially, to give my daughters a way to earn some $. They are homeschooled and love to see, so they are excited about making shirts (and jackets/sweaters) for people. This post has been edited, but the following are what we are offering. 2. Let people send me a shirt (or shirts) of their choosing along with a digital picture of their airplane, which I would get digitized and embroider and mail the shirts back. The digitizing costs $8-11/picture, plus something for the legwork, plus the embroidery. This would be the easiest for you. There would, obviously, be some economy of scale, so doing more shirts would cost less per shirt to embroider, and the digitizing would be paid only once. The pricing for this option would be the digitizing fee ($8-11), $10 for doing it then the same fee as digitizing for each embroidery. Adding the N-number in large letters (N104LG below) would add $3/shirt and medium letter (N674BD below) would add $2/shirt. Shipping would be actual cost plus a small fee for handling, shipped back in the packaging that you shipped it to us in. For 2-5 shirts, there would be a $2 discount per shirt. For more than 5, there would be a $3 discount per shirt. You could order shirts from an online store and have them shipped to me, or you could buy them locally and ship them. Please make sure if you order online that your name is in the address label somewhere. 3. Let people send me a shirt as well as get their own plane picture digitized (following a very easy format), pay the digitizing fee themselves and just pay me a per-shirt fee for the embroidery. The best option for me and the cheapest for you. The cost for this is the same as Option 2 above, but you save the $10 fee I charge for doing the digitizing. It's a matter of sending an email with the picture and a couple of data points that I can email you. You can email me picture if you want me to digitize them (option 2). A good picture is one with good light, preferably few shadows, that included the whole plane. Usually a side shot or a front corner shot works best. If in flight, the side or front corner and from a little above works best. If a tailwheel and on the ground, we can do it level or in the ground position, but it would be best if the picture matches how you want it to show. You can also tell us you want it in the flying position and we can rotate it appropriately. Send the shirts to Saint Aviation, 10575 SW 147th Circle, Dunnellon, FL 34432. I will send a bill for the total after we have the shirts done and ready to go. If you don't pay, I get to wear your shirts, so please make sure they at XL if you don't plan to pay. :-) Below are some samples that we have done, including a picture that one of them was digitized from. [IMG]http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a603/jessesaint/ECE424EE-89F3-4009-BF8F-DF414D62E40B_zpsujof0jwp.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a603/jessesaint/12315838-BF9E-4000-9993-C1FCD325B619_zpsr9o6quue.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a603/jessesaint/bdea94bb66612e97e6ad5a52bc13d91b_zps33b897ff.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a603/jessesaint/1805325a88039e43ca9eae8263c3896e_zpsf7395315.jpg[/IMG] Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse@saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 09:12:17 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Manifold pressure with G3X From: "bob88" Getting ready to hang the engine and trying to do as much as possible on the back end first. My question relates to the Vans recommendation that the manifold pressure line be connected to the port on cylinder #5. I have a used, overhauled engine with the MP port on #6. The plug on #5 doesn't want to come out, at least without extraordinary measures. So...is there a problem using #6 for the MP line with the Garmin engine sensor system? If so, any suggestions about getting the plug out of #5? 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