Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 09:03 AM - Re: Re: Latest Parking brake victim (Bill Watson)
     2. 09:23 AM - Re: Latest Parking brake victim (Bill Watson)
     3. 09:31 AM - Re: Re: Latest Parking brake victim (P Reid)
     4. 10:03 AM - Re: Re: Latest Parking brake victim (Bill Watson)
     5. 12:38 PM - Re: Latest Parking brake victim (Bob Turner)
 
 
 
Message 1
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| Subject:  | Re: Latest Parking brake victim | 
      
      
      On 12/15/2014 10:45 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
      > Another thing I've learned about flaring aluminum tubing (the hard 
      > way) is to go slow, backing off like you do with a tap, and using 
      > plenty of lubricant.  I think going slow allows the aluminum to flow 
      > rather than crack.  I use 5606 brake fluid for lubricant.
      > My 2 pennies, IMHO, and all the other disclaimers!!!!
      > Linn
      I am someone who didn't have a clue as to how to make proper flares.  I 
      got the proper tool and tried to read everything I could find - would 
      love to find a definitive Youtube/EAA clip showing how this is done.
      
      Exactly what you described above - backing off 4-6 times for each flare 
      with plenty of lube - seems to do the trick perfectly for me. Do that, 
      and don't overflare, and they have been reliable and leak free for me.
      
      Tapered pipe fittings where another story.....
      
      
Message 2
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| Subject:  | Re: Latest Parking brake victim | 
      
      On 12/14/2014 10:20 PM, David Saylor wrote:
      > I've pretty much given up on teflon paste-type thread sealants.  I 
      > prefer Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on threads these days.
      >
      > --Dave
      I've used no sealant as well as  several teflon past-type sealeants as 
      well and had both brake line and oil line leaks.  I've had leaks.  The 
      Form-a-Gasket sounds like a solution - wish I found out sooner.
      
      While chasing the equivalent Loctite product, I finally found and used 
      this -Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant #56521 
      <http://www.all-spec.com/products/56521.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAzb-kBRDe49qh9s75m-wBEiQATOxgwbjm5OL7j5P-fO3P5Xl_vLOYfoGKsQN5ROwKbGZbi2MaAor28P8HAQ>.  
      This too is a solution.
      
      They have a half dozen similar products but this works reliably and 
      easily on high pressure tapered fittings.  Little is required, it 
      doesn't harden, it seems to cure instantly and simply doesn't leak. It 
      works so well in comparison to the other products, I'm not sure how it 
      does it but does.
      
      On a non-aviation note:  I recently had the need to fix several water 
      line breaks (black poly pipe). The landscape guys fixed it with gray PVC 
      push in fittings and a white PVC cap on a tapered fitting.  They all 
      leaked very slowly.  They thought it was the push in barb fitting and 
      kept putting extra and new hose clamps on it but I could see it was the 
      white threaded cap on the gray threaded fitting.  The cap would 
      inevitably break before one could tighten it enough to stop the leak.
      
      One light application of #56521 and no leaks - didn't even have to cinch 
      it down very far.  And the fittings were easily removeable with no dried 
      up sealant pieces to get clean up and keep out of sensitive systems.  
      I've done about 6 of these now - same results. I found the same with a 
      slow leaking oil cooler fitting on the '10.
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Latest Parking brake victim | 
      
      Brian carpenter covered a video on flared tubing under the eas videos
      Flared Tubing-Fabrication & Assembly - EAA Video Player - Your ...
      www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=3727487001
      Dec 2, 2008 - In this Hint, Brian Carpenter demonstrates how to fabricate an
      d assemble flared tubing for use in many aircraft installaitons. Brian is an
       A&P ...
      
      Sent from my iPad
      
      > On Dec 16, 2014, at 9:09 AM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
      > 
      > 
      >> On 12/15/2014 10:45 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
      >> Another thing I've learned about flaring aluminum tubing (the hard way) i
      s to go slow, backing off like you do with a tap, and using plenty of lubric
      ant.  I think going slow allows the aluminum to flow rather than crack.  I u
      se 5606 brake fluid for lubricant.
      >> My 2 pennies, IMHO, and all the other disclaimers!!!!
      >> Linn
      > I am someone who didn't have a clue as to how to make proper flares.  I go
      t the proper tool and tried to read everything I could find - would love to f
      ind a definitive Youtube/EAA clip showing how this is done.
      > 
      > Exactly what you described above - backing off 4-6 times for each flare wi
      th plenty of lube - seems to do the trick perfectly for me. Do that, and don
      't overflare, and they have been reliable and leak free for me.
      > 
      > Tapered pipe fittings where another story.....
      > 
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      ==========================
      =========
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Latest Parking brake victim | 
      
      Good one!  That covers everything it would seem except that I 
      can't/won't do it in one tightening. Multiple ins and outs seems to 
      insure no cracking or whatever. Maybe just 2-3 times.
      
      If I was paid by the hour I might work harder to get that one shot and 
      done technique to work.  Might involve the consistent use of the 45deg 
      reamer before starting.
      
      On 12/16/2014 12:28 PM, P Reid wrote:
      > Brian carpenter covered a video on flared tubing under the eas videos
      >
      >
      >       Flared Tubing-Fabrication & Assembly - EAA Video Player - Your
      >       ... <http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=3727487001>
      >
      > www.*eaavideo*.org/*video*.aspx?v=3727487001 <tel:3727487001>
      > Dec 2, 2008 - In this Hint, Brian Carpenter demonstrates how to 
      > fabricate and assemble flared tubing for use in many aircraft 
      > installaitons. Brian is an A&P ...
      >
      > Sent from my iPad
      >
      > On Dec 16, 2014, at 9:09 AM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com 
      > <mailto:Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>> wrote:
      >
      >> <mailto:Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>>
      >>
      >> On 12/15/2014 10:45 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
      >>> Another thing I've learned about flaring aluminum tubing (the hard 
      >>> way) is to go slow, backing off like you do with a tap, and using 
      >>> plenty of lubricant.  I think going slow allows the aluminum to flow 
      >>> rather than crack.  I use 5606 brake fluid for lubricant.
      >>> My 2 pennies, IMHO, and all the other disclaimers!!!!
      >>> Linn
      >> I am someone who didn't have a clue as to how to make proper flares. 
      >>  I got the proper tool and tried to read everything I could find - 
      >> would love to find a definitive Youtube/EAA clip showing how this is 
      >> done.
      >>
      >> Exactly what you described above - backing off 4-6 times for each 
      >> flare with plenty of lube - seems to do the trick perfectly for me. 
      >> Do that, and don't overflare, and they have been reliable and leak 
      >> free for me.
      >>
      >> Tapered pipe fittings where another story.....
      >>
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Latest Parking brake victim | 
      
      
      "Another thing I've learned about flaring aluminum tubing (the hard way) 
      is to go slow, backing off like you do with a tap, and using plenty of 
      lubricant. I think going slow allows the aluminum to flow rather than 
      crack."
      
      If you look very carefully at the way the flaring tool works, you'll see that the
      flare is not at all round (due to the 3 lobes on the tool) as you go in. It
      is only when you back off (and the threads do not turn for 340 degrees) that
      you make the flare round. It is important to turn the tool a full turn counter
      clockwise before releasing the tubing from the clamping mechanism.
      
      --------
      Bob Turner
      RV-10 QB
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435783#435783
      
      
 
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