RV10-List Digest Archive

Tue 12/16/14


Total Messages Posted: 5



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 09:03 AM - Re: Re: Latest Parking brake victim (Bill Watson)
     2. 09:23 AM - Re: Latest Parking brake victim (Bill Watson)
     3. 09:31 AM - Re: Re: Latest Parking brake victim (P Reid)
     4. 10:03 AM - Re: Re: Latest Parking brake victim (Bill Watson)
     5. 12:38 PM - Re: Latest Parking brake victim (Bob Turner)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 09:03:37 AM PST US
    From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Latest Parking brake victim
    On 12/15/2014 10:45 AM, Linn Walters wrote: > Another thing I've learned about flaring aluminum tubing (the hard > way) is to go slow, backing off like you do with a tap, and using > plenty of lubricant. I think going slow allows the aluminum to flow > rather than crack. I use 5606 brake fluid for lubricant. > My 2 pennies, IMHO, and all the other disclaimers!!!! > Linn I am someone who didn't have a clue as to how to make proper flares. I got the proper tool and tried to read everything I could find - would love to find a definitive Youtube/EAA clip showing how this is done. Exactly what you described above - backing off 4-6 times for each flare with plenty of lube - seems to do the trick perfectly for me. Do that, and don't overflare, and they have been reliable and leak free for me. Tapered pipe fittings where another story.....


    Message 2


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    Time: 09:23:39 AM PST US
    From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Latest Parking brake victim
    On 12/14/2014 10:20 PM, David Saylor wrote: > I've pretty much given up on teflon paste-type thread sealants. I > prefer Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on threads these days. > > --Dave I've used no sealant as well as several teflon past-type sealeants as well and had both brake line and oil line leaks. I've had leaks. The Form-a-Gasket sounds like a solution - wish I found out sooner. While chasing the equivalent Loctite product, I finally found and used this -Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant #56521 <http://www.all-spec.com/products/56521.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAzb-kBRDe49qh9s75m-wBEiQATOxgwbjm5OL7j5P-fO3P5Xl_vLOYfoGKsQN5ROwKbGZbi2MaAor28P8HAQ>. This too is a solution. They have a half dozen similar products but this works reliably and easily on high pressure tapered fittings. Little is required, it doesn't harden, it seems to cure instantly and simply doesn't leak. It works so well in comparison to the other products, I'm not sure how it does it but does. On a non-aviation note: I recently had the need to fix several water line breaks (black poly pipe). The landscape guys fixed it with gray PVC push in fittings and a white PVC cap on a tapered fitting. They all leaked very slowly. They thought it was the push in barb fitting and kept putting extra and new hose clamps on it but I could see it was the white threaded cap on the gray threaded fitting. The cap would inevitably break before one could tighten it enough to stop the leak. One light application of #56521 and no leaks - didn't even have to cinch it down very far. And the fittings were easily removeable with no dried up sealant pieces to get clean up and keep out of sensitive systems. I've done about 6 of these now - same results. I found the same with a slow leaking oil cooler fitting on the '10.


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:31:07 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Latest Parking brake victim
    From: P Reid <rv10flyer@live.com>
    Brian carpenter covered a video on flared tubing under the eas videos Flared Tubing-Fabrication & Assembly - EAA Video Player - Your ... www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=3727487001 Dec 2, 2008 - In this Hint, Brian Carpenter demonstrates how to fabricate an d assemble flared tubing for use in many aircraft installaitons. Brian is an A&P ... Sent from my iPad > On Dec 16, 2014, at 9:09 AM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote: > > >> On 12/15/2014 10:45 AM, Linn Walters wrote: >> Another thing I've learned about flaring aluminum tubing (the hard way) i s to go slow, backing off like you do with a tap, and using plenty of lubric ant. I think going slow allows the aluminum to flow rather than crack. I u se 5606 brake fluid for lubricant. >> My 2 pennies, IMHO, and all the other disclaimers!!!! >> Linn > I am someone who didn't have a clue as to how to make proper flares. I go t the proper tool and tried to read everything I could find - would love to f ind a definitive Youtube/EAA clip showing how this is done. > > Exactly what you described above - backing off 4-6 times for each flare wi th plenty of lube - seems to do the trick perfectly for me. Do that, and don 't overflare, and they have been reliable and leak free for me. > > Tapered pipe fittings where another story..... > ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= ========================== ========= > > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:03:11 AM PST US
    From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Latest Parking brake victim
    Good one! That covers everything it would seem except that I can't/won't do it in one tightening. Multiple ins and outs seems to insure no cracking or whatever. Maybe just 2-3 times. If I was paid by the hour I might work harder to get that one shot and done technique to work. Might involve the consistent use of the 45deg reamer before starting. On 12/16/2014 12:28 PM, P Reid wrote: > Brian carpenter covered a video on flared tubing under the eas videos > > > Flared Tubing-Fabrication & Assembly - EAA Video Player - Your > ... <http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=3727487001> > > www.*eaavideo*.org/*video*.aspx?v=3727487001 <tel:3727487001> > Dec 2, 2008 - In this Hint, Brian Carpenter demonstrates how to > fabricate and assemble flared tubing for use in many aircraft > installaitons. Brian is an A&P ... > > Sent from my iPad > > On Dec 16, 2014, at 9:09 AM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com > <mailto:Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>> wrote: > >> <mailto:Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>> >> >> On 12/15/2014 10:45 AM, Linn Walters wrote: >>> Another thing I've learned about flaring aluminum tubing (the hard >>> way) is to go slow, backing off like you do with a tap, and using >>> plenty of lubricant. I think going slow allows the aluminum to flow >>> rather than crack. I use 5606 brake fluid for lubricant. >>> My 2 pennies, IMHO, and all the other disclaimers!!!! >>> Linn >> I am someone who didn't have a clue as to how to make proper flares. >> I got the proper tool and tried to read everything I could find - >> would love to find a definitive Youtube/EAA clip showing how this is >> done. >> >> Exactly what you described above - backing off 4-6 times for each >> flare with plenty of lube - seems to do the trick perfectly for me. >> Do that, and don't overflare, and they have been reliable and leak >> free for me. >> >> Tapered pipe fittings where another story..... >>


    Message 5


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    Time: 12:38:16 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Latest Parking brake victim
    From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
    "Another thing I've learned about flaring aluminum tubing (the hard way) is to go slow, backing off like you do with a tap, and using plenty of lubricant. I think going slow allows the aluminum to flow rather than crack." If you look very carefully at the way the flaring tool works, you'll see that the flare is not at all round (due to the 3 lobes on the tool) as you go in. It is only when you back off (and the threads do not turn for 340 degrees) that you make the flare round. It is important to turn the tool a full turn counter clockwise before releasing the tubing from the clamping mechanism. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=435783#435783




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