Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:20 AM - Re: Painting the Baffles (Bob-tcw)
2. 04:24 AM - Re: Cabin Heat Cables (Bob-tcw)
3. 04:26 AM - Re: Painting the Baffles (g.combs)
4. 02:15 PM - Re: Latest Parking brake victim (William DeLacey)
5. 06:11 PM - Re: Latest Parking brake victim (Kelly McMullen)
6. 08:15 PM - Re: Painting the Baffles (rv10flyer)
7. 08:17 PM - Re: Cabin Heat Cables (rv10flyer)
8. 08:25 PM - Re: propellor governor (rv10flyer)
9. 08:38 PM - Re: Heater control cables (rv10flyer)
10. 08:44 PM - Re: Glare screen (rv10flyer)
11. 08:56 PM - Re: New Engine Questions (rv10flyer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Painting the Baffles |
Vernon, I had my baffles powder coated. I would do it again no
question. They have stayed very nice and are easy to clean.
Bob Newman
N541RV
From: Vernon Franklin
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2015 12:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Painting the Baffles
Are there any protective benefits to painting the baffles? Or do most
just let their baffles go au naturel?
Paint, clear coat, or primer? What products can take the heat and are
safe to use?
--
Vernon Franklin
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Cables |
Rene',
An alternative to the mechanical cables is our CVS-kit. Its a linear
actuator and controller that mounts to the firewall and the flapper door
arm, no more push pull cable.
All the details are on our web site. Here's the link to the web page for
CVS-kit: http://www.tcwtech.com/control_valve_servo_kit.html
Thanks,
Bob Newman
N541RV
-----Original Message-----
From: Rene
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2015 9:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Cabin Heat Cables
After 500 hours I have a second cabin heat cable that has seized. Anybody
else have the same problem? Is there a solution other than changing the
cable.
Thanks for the help...
Rene'
N423CF
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Painting the Baffles |
I second Bob. Powder coat is the way to go
Geoff Combs
Sent from my iPhone
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Modeling & Design
> On Jan 4, 2015, at 7:17 AM, "Bob-tcw" <rnewman@tcwtech.com> wrote:
>
> Vernon, I had my baffles powder coated. I would do it again no quest
ion. They have stayed very nice and are easy to clean.
>
> Bob Newman
> N541RV
>
>
>
> From: Vernon Franklin
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2015 12:09 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Painting the Baffles
>
> Are there any protective benefits to painting the baffles? Or do most jus
t let their baffles go au naturel?
>
> Paint, clear coat, or primer? What products can take the heat and are saf
e to use?
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
>
>
> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
I am in the final throes of finishing my RV. I have discovered the
dreaded Matco parking brake leak.
Can any one point me to the most probable leak source on the valve
itself?
I have already added del seals and thread sealant to my fittings per
previous posts. Now it appears the leak is in the valve itself.
I am dreading the trip back there, my ribs are still sore from the first
attempt.
I am tempted to fabricate a tiny drip bucket.
> On Dec 16, 2014, at 9:20 AM, Bill Watson <mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
wrote:
>
> On 12/14/2014 10:20 PM, David Saylor wrote:
>> I've pretty much given up on teflon paste-type thread sealants. I
prefer Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on threads these days.
>>
>> --Dave
> I've used no sealant as well as several teflon past-type sealeants as
well and had both brake line and oil line leaks. I've had leaks. The
Form-a-Gasket sounds like a solution - wish I found out sooner.
>
> While chasing the equivalent Loctite product, I finally found and used
this - Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant #56521
<http://www.all-spec.com/products/56521.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAzb-kBRDe49qh9
s75m-wBEiQATOxgwbjm5OL7j5P-fO3P5Xl_vLOYfoGKsQN5ROwKbGZbi2MaAor28P8HAQ>.
This too is a solution.
>
> They have a half dozen similar products but this works reliably and
easily on high pressure tapered fittings. Little is required, it
doesn't harden, it seems to cure instantly and simply doesn't leak. It
works so well in comparison to the other products, I'm not sure how it
does it but does.
>
> On a non-aviation note: I recently had the need to fix several water
line breaks (black poly pipe). The landscape guys fixed it with gray PVC
push in fittings and a white PVC cap on a tapered fitting. They all
leaked very slowly. They thought it was the push in barb fitting and
kept putting extra and new hose clamps on it but I could see it was the
white threaded cap on the gray threaded fitting. The cap would
inevitably break before one could tighten it enough to stop the leak.
>
> One light application of #56521 and no leaks - didn't even have to
cinch it down very far. And the fittings were easily removeable with no
dried up sealant pieces to get clean up and keep out of sensitive
systems. I've done about 6 of these now - same results. I found the
same with a slow leaking oil cooler fitting on the '10.
>
>
<http://www.aeroelectric.com/>
<http://www.buildersbooks.com/>
<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>
<http://www.mypilotstore.com/>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Latest Parking brake victim |
You might give it a little time. I'm sure the years between production and
introduction of brake fluid into he valve don't do the O-rings any good. I
went for Permatex high performance thread seal, which I think is a little
better than your average teflon paste. I got lucky, and the sealant on the
pipe threads and DEL seals on the flare fittings stopped my leakage.
On Sun, Jan 4, 2015 at 3:12 PM, William DeLacey <whd721@msn.com> wrote:
> I am in the final throes of finishing my RV. I have discovered the
> dreaded Matco parking brake leak.
> Can any one point me to the most probable leak source on the valve itself?
>
> I have already added del seals and thread sealant to my fittings per
> previous posts. Now it appears the leak is in the valve itself.
> I am dreading the trip back there, my ribs are still sore from the first
> attempt.
>
> I am tempted to fabricate a tiny drip bucket.
>
> On Dec 16, 2014, at 9:20 AM, Bill Watson <mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> On 12/14/2014 10:20 PM, David Saylor wrote:
>
> I've pretty much given up on teflon paste-type thread sealants. I prefer
> Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on threads these days.
>
> --Dave
>
> I've used no sealant as well as several teflon past-type sealeants as
> well and had both brake line and oil line leaks. I've had leaks. The
> Form-a-Gasket sounds like a solution - wish I found out sooner.
>
> While chasing the equivalent Loctite product, I finally found and used
> this - Permatex High Performance Thread Sealant #56521
> <http://www.all-spec.com/products/56521.html?gclid=Cj0KEQiAzb-kBRDe49qh9s75m-wBEiQATOxgwbjm5OL7j5P-fO3P5Xl_vLOYfoGKsQN5ROwKbGZbi2MaAor28P8HAQ>.
> This too is a solution.
>
> They have a half dozen similar products but this works reliably and easily
> on high pressure tapered fittings. Little is required, it doesn't harden,
> it seems to cure instantly and simply doesn't leak. It works so well in
> comparison to the other products, I'm not sure how it does it but does.
>
> On a non-aviation note: I recently had the need to fix several water line
> breaks (black poly pipe). The landscape guys fixed it with gray PVC push in
> fittings and a white PVC cap on a tapered fitting. They all leaked very
> slowly. They thought it was the push in barb fitting and kept putting
> extra and new hose clamps on it but I could see it was the white threaded
> cap on the gray threaded fitting. The cap would inevitably break before
> one could tighten it enough to stop the leak.
>
> One light application of #56521 and no leaks - didn't even have to cinch
> it down very far. And the fittings were easily removeable with no dried up
> sealant pieces to get clean up and keep out of sensitive systems. I've
> done about 6 of these now - same results. I found the same with a slow
> leaking oil cooler fitting on the '10.
>
> *
>
> class="">www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com>
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/ <http://www.buildersbooks.com/>" class="">www.buildersbooks.com <http://www.buildersbooks.com>
> class="">www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
> class="">www.mypilotstore.com <http://www.mypilotstore.com>
> class="">www.mrrace.com <http://www.mrrace.com>
> class="">http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> class="">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
> class="">http://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Painting the Baffles |
I left mine as they came from Van's. The rubber seals leave marks on the bare aluminum
from vibrations and probably would on painted surfaces too. I clean the
bugs off occassionally. Nobody will see in there except you and the bugs. Your
red inlet plugs go in after opening the oil door for a short cool down. It
is just money, time, weight and of course all yours to do as you wish. It is a
great plane either way.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436637#436637
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Heat Cables |
Mine almost stuck the one day. Lubricate them and actuate them on every flight.
No more issues.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436638#436638
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: propellor governor |
I have flown with my -3 for three years. It is perfect.
The -3 or -5 refers to splined control arm position and max rpm adjustment. Both
can be adjusted. Contact MT if you must. I already did 3 1/2 yrs ago. 1-386-736-7762.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436639#436639
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Heater control cables |
Same here in Ky. Below 60F OAT, you need it and it works very well. Above 90F in
a 105 kt climb, I wish my SCAT was bigger. It is easy enough to lower the nose
to 120 kt and it easily stays below 220F(my limit).
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436640#436640
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Glare screen |
My glare shield and the white tube(that is in many pics) is all flat black. I installed
two 80 mm computer fans for cooling/defrosting blowing straight up on
the windshield in front of you. Works great, run them on every flight.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436641#436641
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: New Engine Questions |
I would go with the three blade Hartzell for less vibration if doing it over and
I had plenty of money in the bank. Who cares about a few knots on a 3-4 hr trip.
Just get to the airport 10 minutes earlier.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436642#436642
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