Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:05 AM - Lower cowl attach problem (bob88)
2. 11:40 AM - Re: Lower cowl attach problem (Kevin Belue)
3. 12:00 PM - Re: Lower cowl attach problem (Jesse Saint)
4. 12:48 PM - Re: Lower cowl attach problem ()
5. 01:20 PM - Re: Lower cowl attach problem (bob88)
6. 02:24 PM - Re: Lower cowl attach problem (Bob Turner)
7. 04:58 PM - Re: Re: Lower cowl attach problem (David Saylor)
8. 05:56 PM - Firewall Soundproofing Insulation (Patrick Pulis)
9. 07:46 PM - Re: Center section wing bolt alignment--follow-up (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Lower cowl attach problem |
I'm at the point of attaching the lower cowl aft edge hinge to the cowl and need
to drill holes for the rivets. I have the upper cowl secured in place and the
lower cowl is clecoed to the upper at the forward end and secured at the bottom.
Thus, no inside access. Is there a trick to sticking the cowl part of the
hinge to the inside and then drilling from the outside...or a better plan? Suggestions
appreciated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437564#437564
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Lower cowl attach problem |
Don't use the hinge on the lower rear of the cowl; it will break. I put a plate
on each side attached to the firewall where the hinge would go and then put 3
screws on each side through the bottom cowl. Also, make them countersunk with
washers. That works well. You could also use skybolt's fasteners.
Kevin Belue
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 24, 2015, at 12:02 PM, "bob88" <marty.crooks@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I'm at the point of attaching the lower cowl aft edge hinge to the cowl and need
to drill holes for the rivets. I have the upper cowl secured in place and
the lower cowl is clecoed to the upper at the forward end and secured at the bottom.
Thus, no inside access. Is there a trick to sticking the cowl part of the
hinge to the inside and then drilling from the outside...or a better plan?
Suggestions appreciated.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437564#437564
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Lower cowl attach problem |
Well, they might break. On all the -10's I've messed with, some break and some
don't. It's hard to tell what causes them to break. The best option, as mentioned,
is a plate with screws or 2 skybolts on each side. The hinge pin is a royal
pain to mess with anyway.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Jan 24, 2015, at 2:37 PM, Kevin Belue <kdb.rv10@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Don't use the hinge on the lower rear of the cowl; it will break. I put a plate
on each side attached to the firewall where the hinge would go and then put
3 screws on each side through the bottom cowl. Also, make them countersunk with
washers. That works well. You could also use skybolt's fasteners.
>
> Kevin Belue
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jan 24, 2015, at 12:02 PM, "bob88" <marty.crooks@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I'm at the point of attaching the lower cowl aft edge hinge to the cowl and
need to drill holes for the rivets. I have the upper cowl secured in place and
the lower cowl is clecoed to the upper at the forward end and secured at the
bottom. Thus, no inside access. Is there a trick to sticking the cowl part of
the hinge to the inside and then drilling from the outside...or a better plan?
Suggestions appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437564#437564
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Lower cowl attach problem |
Hey Bob,
If the other's response to attaching the cowl to the bottom of the firewall
apply, then never mind.
Are you talking about attaching the horizontal hinge (which fastens the
upper and lower cowls) to the bottom half of the cowl at the aft end?
Later, - Lew
-----Original Message-----
From: bob88
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2015 1:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Lower cowl attach problem
I'm at the point of attaching the lower cowl aft edge hinge to the cowl and
need to drill holes for the rivets. I have the upper cowl secured in place
and the lower cowl is clecoed to the upper at the forward end and secured at
the bottom. Thus, no inside access. Is there a trick to sticking the cowl
part of the hinge to the inside and then drilling from the outside...or a
better plan? Suggestions appreciated.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Lower cowl attach problem |
Actually, I did the plate with screws/nutplates on the bottom. My issue is with
the hinge attachment to the sides of the lower cowl along the firewall; not the
upper to lower attachment. Trying to figure out how to drill the rivet holes
with the cowl in position.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437575#437575
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Lower cowl attach problem |
By careful measuring and/or shining a bright light inside, you should be able to
draw an outline of the hinge on the outside of the cowl. Then mark a centerline,
and mark where you want the rivets to go. Start at bottom, this is the hard
part. As the drill comes thru the fiberglass, either have a long arm inside
(thru the bottom opening) to hold the hinge flat against the cowl; OR, bend the
hinge out of the way, drill thru the cowl, rotate the hinge back into position,
mark with a sharpie, remove the cowl, drill the hinge. #1 is more accurate
and quicker if you have the long arm of yourself or a helper. I think I did
it by myself using a scrap of wood to hold the hinge. Once the first hole is drilled,
use a cleco to hold the hinge against the cowl. Drill with light pressure
so you don't push the hinge away. Cleco as you go. As per the instructions,
if too many shavings build up between the hinge and cowl, stop and blow them
out so they don't keep the hinge from laying flat.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437580#437580
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Lower cowl attach problem |
One way is to attach the aft section to the side of the fuse.
Then join the hinge halves with the pin so the fwd half is hanging in
space.
Now put the lower cowl in place so you're happy with the fit.
Drill two or three no. 40 holes in the cowl to catch the fwd hinge half.
Cleco the cowl to the hinge and finish the rivet pattern. The original
holes can be filled later if they don't end up as part of the desired
layout.
You might consider moving the aft hinge halfs about 1/8" forward relative
to the fuse so the knuckles don't line up exactly with the split line. But
that may require a wider hinge flange than Vans supplies-- I don't recall.
Otherwise you end up with the knuckles visible in the gap.
--Dave
On Saturday, January 24, 2015, bob88 <marty.crooks@comcast.net> wrote:
> <javascript:;>>
>
> Actually, I did the plate with screws/nutplates on the bottom. My issue is
> with the hinge attachment to the sides of the lower cowl along the
> firewall; not the upper to lower attachment. Trying to figure out how to
> drill the rivet holes with the cowl in position.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=437575#437575
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Firewall Soundproofing Insulation |
Could the RV-10 builder from Canada (I think) who supplied me soundproofing insulation
(i.e. felt, blue rubber and self adhesive backed foil) for the firewall
some time back, please contact me off line to discuss installation technique.
Alternatively if any other builders have used this soundproofing method for their
firewall, please contact me to confirm the order of the three materials and
the adhesive used to bond each layer please?
Warm regards
Patrick
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Center section wing bolt alignment--follow-up |
After wrestling with the perceived problem for awhile, and trying
installing the spacers that come with the slow build kit (which did help
with alignment) I decided to wait until I actually got the wing spar
inserted in the center section.
Surprise....the right wing holes lined up about as well as can be inspected.
Somehow having th spar inserted seemed to fix any misalignment.
When I got to the left wing, the top 3/8" holes were very tight on the
alignment pins, so I investigated. I found that it was the wing spar where
the problem existed, not the center section. The spar web did not did not
line up exactly with the main bar spar cap. Talked to Van's. They told me
to not use my 3/8" undersize reamer from the bar side because it would
remove metal where you do not want to change clearance. Their advice was to
work from the web side with a Dremel with abrasive bit(with dowel or bolt
in the bar to prevent going too deep) until the interference was solved,
then prime the area worked on.
I did that. Problem solved. As insurance, I stored the bolts under dry ice
overnight before installing. They all went in okay, some needing firmer
tapping with dead blow mallet than others. Van's did say that the web
misalignment they had heard of a few other cases before mine.
Kelly
On Thu, Nov 27, 2014 at 1:39 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
>
> I will check, but the wing # vs fuselage # is irrelevant in this case. It
> is the two halves of the center section on one side of the fuselage that
> have the misalignment. At this stage the wings are not involved.
> Unfortunately my QB was one of the first to come out of Manila after
> relocation/reorganization of the facility their. There were a number of QC
> issues right from the start, like not countersinking the longerons before
> riveting on the dimpled skins.
>
> On 11/27/2014 10:06 AM, Rich Hansen wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Kelly,
>> After commiserating with you in reading your email, a thought occurred to
>> me. I had purposely forgotten about this so as not to have continuous bad
>> dreams about it. So here is the question: Do you have the same serial
>> number fuselage as you do wings? As in, are the numbers matching? As in,
>> were you one of the unfortunate ones that lost your quick build in the
>> Philippines weather disaster some years ago???
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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