Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:45 AM - Re: Lord adhesive window installation question (Dan Charrois)
2. 03:45 AM - Re: Re: Gust Locks (Rob Kermanj)
3. 05:51 AM - ACS Door Locks (Shannon Hicks)
4. 06:08 AM - Re: ACS Door Locks (William Greenley)
5. 06:10 AM - Re: ACS Door Locks (rvdave)
6. 07:17 AM - Re: ACS Door Locks (Bruce Hoppe)
7. 08:14 AM - Insurance (Chris Hukill)
8. 08:25 AM - Re: Re: ACS Door Locks (Shannon Hicks)
9. 08:28 AM - Control stick bending (Kelly McMullen)
10. 08:57 AM - Re: Control stick bending (Pascal)
11. 09:56 AM - Re: Control stick bending (Rob Kermanj)
12. 10:17 AM - Re: ACS Door Locks (Jim Berry)
13. 11:24 AM - Re: Control stick bending (Tomhanaway)
14. 11:42 AM - Re: Re: ACS Door Lock (Shannon Hicks)
15. 12:46 PM - Re: Control stick bending (Kelly McMullen)
16. 12:50 PM - Re: Re: ACS Door Lock (Kelly McMullen)
17. 12:58 PM - Re: Re: ACS Door Lock (Shannon Hicks)
18. 05:44 PM - Re: ACS Door Locks (bhoppe2)
19. 06:27 PM - Re: Control stick bending (Lenny Iszak)
20. 06:46 PM - Re: Re: ACS Door Lock (Rick Lark)
21. 08:21 PM - Another ADS-B option (Kelly McMullen)
22. 09:53 PM - NTSB - Probable Cause (Phillip Perry)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Lord adhesive window installation question |
Thanks, everyone, for the great response.
I never even thought of using aluminum "fingers" like that (or straps and foam
blocks as others have done). That's a great idea, and so simple too and straightforward
too! I guess that even after getting this far with fibreglass, I still
don't automatically realize that it's OK to drill holes where you don't want
them permanently!
I'm definitely going to try this idea, and with the doors on and shut for good
measure too instead of on the bench (can't hurt!).
Thanks again!
Dan
> On 2015-Apr-08, at 3:03 AM, Bob Leffler <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
>
> The short answer is no. You need minimal pressure to hold the windows in place.
If gravity causes any movement at all, you're going to have a major headache
on your hands to resolve. I did my doors laying flat. On the rear windows
I made fingers out of scrap aluminum to hold the pieces in place that were
cleco'd to the cabin cover. You could do the same on the doors. The angle
of the bend determines how much pressure is applied. You don't need much, just
enough to keep things from moving.
>
>
>
> <image1.jpeg>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Apr 8, 2015, at 1:42 AM, Dan Charrois <dan@syz.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi everyone. I'm ready to attach the windows in my RV-10 and am looking for
advice on those who have used the Lord 7545 A/E adhesive sold by Geoff at Aerosport
Products. After reading lots of positive comments from here about it,
I obtained a few tubes from him.
>>
>> The plans call for installing the windows onto the doors when the doors are
off and laying flat, presumably to allow gravity to help hold them in place while
they are being cured. Of course, the rear windows can't be installed with
that luxury, but they're smaller and lighter. And the windscreen rests largely
on the nose while curing, so that should be less of an issue too.
>>
>> But my question is, considering that Lord Adhesive is different than Vans' would
have us use anyway, is it sticky enough that I could install the windows
on the doors while the doors are closed and on the plane - in essentially the
same orientation as the rear windows? The reason I ask isn't due to laziness
:-) But instead, I'm one of the lucky ones whose doors ended up fitting quite
well without a lot of work. And I figure that if the windows are attached to
the doors while the doors are in their proper latched position, they can only
help (slightly) to further stiffen the door in the proper position. The last
thing I want to do is to fit the windows to the doors when the doors are on the
floor, and then find that gravity warped things slightly while they were curing,
and the doors no longer fit properly. It would seem to me that adhering
the windows to the doors when the doors are in their closed position will help
keep everything aligned properly, so long as the Lord!
>> adhesive is sticky enough before fully cured that it will hold the window tightly
to the door and in place while it is curing.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Dan
>> ---
>> Dan Charrois
>> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
>> Phone: 780-961-2213
>>
>>
>>
> ===================================
> ===================================
> ===================================
> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>
> <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>
>
> </b></font></pre>
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
Message 2
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Here are pictures of my home made gust locks. They pack into a
4=9DX6=9D bag.
do not archive
RobK
>
> Les;
> I miss some e-mails for some reason so I am only seeing your response
and not who Alan is, however I have a antisplat gust lock that does
require me to unzip the control stick cover and also requires the wires
be routed on the inside of the stick, as the retainer is bolted to
control stick.
> If you don=99t mind unzipping the cover and your wires are on
the inside, I highly recommend it.
http://antisplataero.com/RV-10_Ultimate_Gust_Lock.html
> another option, a home brew is-
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=120730&highlight=
gust+lock
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: kearney
> Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 5:08 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Gust Locks
>
>
> Alan
>
> Will the gust buster accommodate a cover on the control stick?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440406#440406
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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I tried to install my new, custom ordered door lock yesterday in the
baggage door and found that the included cam was too short. When I
attempted to use the one I had, I realized that these door locks are
"clocked" 45 degrees off of what they would need to be for the cam to be
level in the closed position.
The included cam has an 8 point mounting hole that allows it to be clocked
to the desired position, but the one I have is square. I called the
manufacturer and they do not make a longer cam. Does anyone have a source
for longer cams that have an 8 point mounting hole? If not, what has
everyone else been doing?
Thanks,
Shannon
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: ACS Door Locks |
I believe my kit from Vans came with a long cam for this purpose.
On Thu, Apr 9, 2015 at 8:48 AM, Shannon Hicks <civeng123@gmail.com> wrote:
> I tried to install my new, custom ordered door lock yesterday in the
> baggage door and found that the included cam was too short. When I
> attempted to use the one I had, I realized that these door locks are
> "clocked" 45 degrees off of what they would need to be for the cam to be
> level in the closed position.
>
> The included cam has an 8 point mounting hole that allows it to be clocked
> to the desired position, but the one I have is square. I called the
> manufacturer and they do not make a longer cam. Does anyone have a source
> for longer cams that have an 8 point mounting hole? If not, what has
> everyone else been doing?
>
> Thanks,
> Shannon
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: ACS Door Locks |
I took the square holed cam, cut and welded it to the octagonal cam and bent it
to make it work.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440489#440489
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: ACS Door Locks |
Message 7
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Thanks to the posters on the rates that you pay for comparison shopping
of insurance. I had my quote move down to $2027 for $1mil/100k/150,000
hull.
I have only 25 hours in a RV10, but have had my RV8 with them for
several years and I have 16,000 hours TT, so I will expect to see the
price drop at renewal with more time in type. I think that this thread
is useful for people to get a feel for what they should be seeing for
the quotes that they are getting, even though there are many variables
to consider. With just a few responses on this forum, I feel more
secure that I=99m paying a rate that isn=99t grossly out of
range. I was able to have my agent =9Cfine tune=9D the
original $2400 quote down to $2000 after getting these responses. It
turns out they =9Cforgot=9D to include the large discount
for being hangared. Expect me to re-visit this thread every year at
renewal time. I hope people will participate.
Chris Hukill
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: ACS Door Locks |
Because the cutout is square in the Vans supplied cam, It will not rotate
properly. When the lock is installed in the door, it is off by 45
degrees. The only way I can see making it work is to modify the square
opening to an 8 point opening. Attached is a crude drawing of what is
happening.
Shannon
On Thu, Apr 9, 2015 at 8:08 AM, rvdave <rv610dave@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I took the square holed cam, cut and welded it to the octagonal cam and
> bent it to make it work.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 for sale
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440489#440489
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Control stick bending |
I know some have said they have bent their sticks for panel clearance. I
don't recall seeing any specifics, other than ua hydraulic press.
How much did you need to bend? What did you do to protect the shape of
the tubing?
Any comments on technique, how hard to bend, how to prevent weakening
the tubing would be appreciated.
I have Tosten grips and Aerosport carbon fiber panel, along with cutting
stick as much as possible and still be able to secure grips.
I currently only have 20 degrees of nose down travel when stick grips
hit panel.
Kelly
Been finishing forever.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Control stick bending |
I did mine freehand with a rubber mallet. I wouldnt bother doing it again,
there is no way you should ever need to push the stick so far forward that
you'll hit the panel. Vans demo plane uses the stick as sent, as a
reference. I would consider bending the stick a slight side bend to
accommodate the angle you hold the stick.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:26 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Control stick bending
I know some have said they have bent their sticks for panel clearance. I
don't recall seeing any specifics, other than ua hydraulic press.
How much did you need to bend? What did you do to protect the shape of
the tubing?
Any comments on technique, how hard to bend, how to prevent weakening
the tubing would be appreciated.
I have Tosten grips and Aerosport carbon fiber panel, along with cutting
stick as much as possible and still be able to secure grips.
I currently only have 20 degrees of nose down travel when stick grips
hit panel.
Kelly
Been finishing forever.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Control stick bending |
I shortened my stick to compensate for the hight of the grip and it works good.
Do not archive.
> On Apr 9, 2015, at 11:53 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote:
>
>
> I did mine freehand with a rubber mallet. I wouldnt bother doing it again, there
is no way you should ever need to push the stick so far forward that you'll
hit the panel. Vans demo plane uses the stick as sent, as a reference. I would
consider bending the stick a slight side bend to accommodate the angle you
hold the stick.
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:26 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Control stick bending
>
>
> I know some have said they have bent their sticks for panel clearance. I
> don't recall seeing any specifics, other than ua hydraulic press.
> How much did you need to bend? What did you do to protect the shape of
> the tubing?
> Any comments on technique, how hard to bend, how to prevent weakening
> the tubing would be appreciated.
> I have Tosten grips and Aerosport carbon fiber panel, along with cutting
> stick as much as possible and still be able to secure grips.
> I currently only have 20 degrees of nose down travel when stick grips
> hit panel.
> Kelly
> Been finishing forever.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: ACS Door Locks |
A locksmith or HD can fix you up with the correct latch.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440512#440512
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Control stick bending |
When I did my 10, I got a pipe bender from harbor freight. Packed the tube with
sand to prevent any kinks.
Worked fine
Tom h
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 9, 2015, at 12:53 PM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I shortened my stick to compensate for the hight of the grip and it works good.
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
>> On Apr 9, 2015, at 11:53 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I did mine freehand with a rubber mallet. I wouldnt bother doing it again, there
is no way you should ever need to push the stick so far forward that you'll
hit the panel. Vans demo plane uses the stick as sent, as a reference. I would
consider bending the stick a slight side bend to accommodate the angle you
hold the stick.
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Kelly McMullen
>> Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:26 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Control stick bending
>>
>>
>> I know some have said they have bent their sticks for panel clearance. I
>> don't recall seeing any specifics, other than ua hydraulic press.
>> How much did you need to bend? What did you do to protect the shape of
>> the tubing?
>> Any comments on technique, how hard to bend, how to prevent weakening
>> the tubing would be appreciated.
>> I have Tosten grips and Aerosport carbon fiber panel, along with cutting
>> stick as much as possible and still be able to secure grips.
>> I currently only have 20 degrees of nose down travel when stick grips
>> hit panel.
>> Kelly
>> Been finishing forever.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: ACS Door Lock |
So, two locksmiths, HD and Lowes have all told me they have never seen a
cam like I need. The manufacturer states the locks cannot be adjusted so I
am stuck with the 45 deg offset 90 deg of rotation.
I feel like I am missing something very simple here, but I just can't get
past this issue.
Thanks for all of your help so far.
Shannon
On Apr 9, 2015 12:19 PM, "Jim Berry" <tojimberry@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> A locksmith or HD can fix you up with the correct latch.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440512#440512
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Control stick bending |
Thank you. That makes the most sense to me. As I said, I already
shortened as much as possible. HF has on sale right now.
I want the clearance as much to protect the switches and knobs(and my
knuckles as to meet the nose down travel spec.
On 4/9/2015 11:20 AM, Tomhanaway wrote:
>
> When I did my 10, I got a pipe bender from harbor freight. Packed the tube with
sand to prevent any kinks.
> Worked fine
>
> Tom h
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Apr 9, 2015, at 12:53 PM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I shortened my stick to compensate for the hight of the grip and it works good.
>>
>> Do not archive.
>>
>>
>>> On Apr 9, 2015, at 11:53 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I did mine freehand with a rubber mallet. I wouldnt bother doing it again,
there is no way you should ever need to push the stick so far forward that you'll
hit the panel. Vans demo plane uses the stick as sent, as a reference. I would
consider bending the stick a slight side bend to accommodate the angle you
hold the stick.
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message----- From: Kelly McMullen
>>> Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2015 8:26 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Control stick bending
>>>
>>>
>>> I know some have said they have bent their sticks for panel clearance. I
>>> don't recall seeing any specifics, other than ua hydraulic press.
>>> How much did you need to bend? What did you do to protect the shape of
>>> the tubing?
>>> Any comments on technique, how hard to bend, how to prevent weakening
>>> the tubing would be appreciated.
>>> I have Tosten grips and Aerosport carbon fiber panel, along with cutting
>>> stick as much as possible and still be able to secure grips.
>>> I currently only have 20 degrees of nose down travel when stick grips
>>> hit panel.
>>> Kelly
>>> Been finishing forever.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: ACS Door Lock |
Could you make a new locating notch to line up the lock where you want
it, rather than modifying the inside of the cam attach?
On 4/9/2015 11:39 AM, Shannon Hicks wrote:
>
> So, two locksmiths, HD and Lowes have all told me they have never seen
> a cam like I need. The manufacturer states the locks cannot be
> adjusted so I am stuck with the 45 deg offset 90 deg of rotation.
>
> I feel like I am missing something very simple here, but I just can't
> get past this issue.
>
> Thanks for all of your help so far.
>
> Shannon
>
> On Apr 9, 2015 12:19 PM, "Jim Berry" <tojimberry@gmail.com
> <mailto:tojimberry@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> <mailto:tojimberry@gmail.com>>
>
> A locksmith or HD can fix you up with the correct latch.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440512#440512
>
>
> ==========
> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: ACS Door Lock |
That looks like my only course of action right now. It gave me pause that I
am the first person that ran into this. That usually means I am looking at
it wrong!
Shannon
On Apr 9, 2015 2:52 PM, "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
>
> Could you make a new locating notch to line up the lock where you want it,
> rather than modifying the inside of the cam attach?
>
> On 4/9/2015 11:39 AM, Shannon Hicks wrote:
>
>>
>> So, two locksmiths, HD and Lowes have all told me they have never seen a
>> cam like I need. The manufacturer states the locks cannot be adjusted so I
>> am stuck with the 45 deg offset 90 deg of rotation.
>>
>> I feel like I am missing something very simple here, but I just can't get
>> past this issue.
>>
>> Thanks for all of your help so far.
>>
>> Shannon
>>
>> On Apr 9, 2015 12:19 PM, "Jim Berry" <tojimberry@gmail.com <mailto:
>> tojimberry@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>> <mailto:tojimberry@gmail.com>>
>>
>> A locksmith or HD can fix you up with the correct latch.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440512#440512
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: ACS Door Locks |
I agree with William. Vans included a longer cam that replaces the one that comes
with the lock. I ended up making one so that I could embed a disk magnet in
it and then installed a reed switch in the door jamb. That switch is hooked
in series with the passenger door switches. All 5 switches are hooked in series,
2 per passenger and one on the luggage door. Therefore, if any door is not
latched, I get an indicator on my panel telling me, just not which one. i bought
both the magnet and switch from Amazon.
Bruce Hoppe
Sent from my iPad
--------
Bruce Hoppe
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440549#440549
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_560.jpg
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Control stick bending |
Or you can use shorter grips. I got them from a guy in New Zealand, and they clear
the panel just fine without any bending of the stick. They look a bit similar
to the Infinity grips, just less buttons. They are ambidextrous.
http://www.compositesinternational.co.nz/gallery/
You are probably far down the path to bending the stick :) but just for future
reference...
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440550#440550
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/grips_277.jpg
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: ACS Door Lock |
Shannon, how about getting a piece of stainless steel plate and cutting out
a new cam? It's a little bit of work but will give you exactly what you
need.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Thu, Apr 9, 2015 at 2:39 PM, Shannon Hicks <civeng123@gmail.com> wrote:
> So, two locksmiths, HD and Lowes have all told me they have never seen a
> cam like I need. The manufacturer states the locks cannot be adjusted so I
> am stuck with the 45 deg offset 90 deg of rotation.
>
> I feel like I am missing something very simple here, but I just can't get
> past this issue.
>
> Thanks for all of your help so far.
>
> Shannon
> On Apr 9, 2015 12:19 PM, "Jim Berry" <tojimberry@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> A locksmith or HD can fix you up with the correct latch.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=440512#440512
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -List" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> _blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
> *
>
>
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| Subject: | Another ADS-B option |
From Stratus, all-in-one 1090ES/GPS unit.
http://tinyurl.com/kjlz5ah
<http://ipadpilotnews.com/2015/04/new-stratus-esg-ads-b-transponder/?utm_source=ipadnews&utm_medium=email&_bta_tid=3.P80.CEVn1g.C7qC.AXbG0g..Afn5fA.b..l>
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| Subject: | NTSB - Probable Cause |
Some of you might have seen this already, but Doug Nebert's probable cause
was published today. This was the accident in Oregon last May. (2 Fatal -
1 Serious)
- The probable cause document
<http://www.ntsb.gov/_layouts/ntsb.aviation/GeneratePDF.aspx?id=WPR14FA218&rpt=fi>
is a humbling read...
- Every document in the entire docket
<http://dms.ntsb.gov/pubdms/search/hitlist.cfm?docketID=57129&CFID=524058&CFTOKEN=34830451>
is worth the read...
- Specifically the photos in this document
<http://dms.ntsb.gov/public%2F57000-57499%2F57129%2F570028.pdf> are full
of emotion. Anger, Sadness, Disbelief, Confusion.
In case the links do not work, the case ID is WPR14FA218 so you can look it
up yourself.
I will give you the nutshell, but you need to go read the documents. RTV
was used to seal NPT fittings on a (recently installed) fuel flow
transducer. A ~0.25" chuckof RTV came loose and flowed downstream into the
metered nozzle of the transducer. The metered hole was ~0.115" in
diameter and the RTV plugged the hole and starved the engine of fuel. To
make matters worse, a stall (and likely the start of a spin) occurred
during the forced landing.
This is worth a read. There were other indications of an aircraft with
questionable maintenance, but the event that brought down this airplane was
100% preventable. The real disappointing part is that the issue was
pointed out by a friend but ignored.
Even if we don't have RTV on our fuel lines (I hope we don't - Same thing
for Teflon Tape), there is a lesson in here for all of us. It doesn't do
us any good to share information and concerns with each other if we aren't
going to take a moment to stop in our tracks and seriously listen to them.
Ears open, mouth closed, stop, and think. I'm as guilty as the next
person, but this is a case where we can all reset ourselves and improve our
fleets record.
Phil
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