Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:30 AM - Re: How long does your annual take? (Mike Whisky)
2. 04:59 AM - Re: Ventilation (bill.peyton)
3. 06:10 AM - Filter Air Box (Vernon Franklin)
4. 06:47 AM - Re: Filter Air Box (Carl Froehlich)
5. 07:11 AM - Re: 430 WAAS Comm Settings (n1345p)
6. 07:23 AM - Re: Filter Air Box (Tim Olson)
7. 10:12 AM - Re: Filter Air Box (Carl Froehlich)
8. 11:34 AM - Re: Filter Air Box (Ed Kranz)
9. 11:50 AM - Re: Filter Air Box (Tim Olson)
10. 12:03 PM - Re: Filter Air Box (Michael Kraus)
11. 12:24 PM - Re: Filter Air Box (Gary)
12. 12:40 PM - Re: Filter Air Box (Ed Kranz)
13. 01:43 PM - Re: Filter Air Box (Kelly McMullen)
14. 01:53 PM - Re: How long does your annual take? (Rob Kochman)
15. 02:07 PM - Re: How long does your annual take? (Kelly McMullen)
16. 03:25 PM - Re: How long does your annual take? (Jesse Saint)
17. 03:32 PM - Re: Filter Air Box (Vernon Franklin)
18. 04:21 PM - Re: Filter Air Box (Jesse Saint)
19. 04:34 PM - Re: Filter Air Box (Carl Froehlich)
20. 04:49 PM - Re: Filter Air Box (Tim Olson)
21. 05:18 PM - Re: Filter Air Box (Berck E. Nash)
22. 07:39 PM - Re: How long does your annual take? (Neal George)
23. 07:49 PM - Re: How long does your annual take? (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: How long does your annual take? |
My first 100h check took almost four days but included some fixes and the nose
gear SB. Removing and installing all the panels exterior and interior eats time.
I plan for three days.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441663#441663
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I installed the Aerosport Overhead Console with two additional NACA vents. For
me it is a must have. I enjoy the air on my face and I also think the air is
actually a bit cooler than the air out of the forward NACA vents. St. Louis
has hot summers and I use all of them during the summer until we get to altitude.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441665#441665
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I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I have
about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing.
I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
Options I am thinking about:
1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air filter
3) Live with it as is
Any ideas or recommendations?
--
Vernon Franklin
Message 4
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Perhaps a photo?
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon
Franklin
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Filter Air Box
I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I
have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass
housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished
riveting.
Options I am thinking about:
1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air
filter
3) Live with it as is
Any ideas or recommendations?
--
Vernon Franklin
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: 430 WAAS Comm Settings |
Les,
We had a similar issue with a 430W in a C172. It was chirping all the time, so
we adjusted the squelch value maybe 5 or so a couple times. Then we had the opposite
problem; not hearing center at a distance/poor reception, followed by
poor transmit.
Sent to JA AirCenter who replaced the com board.
In about 10 years this radio has been repaired three times, and maybe 3000 hours
operation. Twice at Garmin including W-conversion and once by JA Air.
mitch
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=441668#441668
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Filter Air Box |
Hi Vernon,
If you're saying the filter isn't getting squished down enough into the
fiberglas FAB bottom, then I would not use RTV. You don't want
RTV being ingested. But, the fiberglass WILL wear through if you
just put the filter against it anyway. So what I would do is get
a nice sheet of aluminum, as thick as necessary, probably
at least .040, and bond it or rivet it into the bottom of the FAB
so that the filter can push on that. That way you can avoid
the wear. My plane just turned 1100, and somewhere in the
last few years it had worn more than I wanted into the fiberglass
and I did that to prevent future issues.
Tim.
On 5/4/2015 8:08 AM, Vernon Franklin wrote:
> I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I
> have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass
> housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished
> riveting.
>
> Options I am thinking about:
> 1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
> 2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air
> filter
> 3) Live with it as is
>
> Any ideas or recommendations?
>
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
>
> *
Message 7
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Vernon,
I posted a note on this awhile back. As Tim Olson says, the air box
needs an aluminum plate between the bottom fiberglass and the air
filter. Without it the air filter will wear away the bottom of the box.
After re-glassing the air box on the RV-8A a couple of times I figured
this out.
The other problem is the filter will deform with time as there is no
structure in the box to hold the filter shape =93 the filter
bottom tends to shrink making the filter more conical than cylindrical
(see photo #1). Adding the aluminum plate also provides a way to solve
this problem using simple brackets, and adds reinforcement to mount the
alt air control door (second photo). On assembly I added some Pro-seal
between the bottom of the air box and the aluminum plate. The alt air
door rivets sandwich the fiberglass between the plate and the door
flange.
The third photo shows the now fixed air box for the RV-8A (using the
same K&N E-3450 filter as Van=99s provides for the RV-10. The
fourth photo shows the air box I made for the RV-10. You=99ll
note the top plate is inverted. I did this to allow using the K&N
E-1000 filter instead of the E-3450. The E-1000 filter is 3=9D
tall as compared to the E-3450 that is 2.5=9D tall. Note this
photo was taken before I added the notch on the left side of the box to
provide clearance for the control linkage (last photo).
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon
Franklin
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Filter Air Box
I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I
have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass
housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished
riveting.
Options I am thinking about:
1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air
filter
3) Live with it as is
Any ideas or recommendations?
--
Vernon Franklin
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Filter Air Box |
Interesting that this came up now.
When I built my FAB, I wasn't happy that the upper plate was putting enough
pressure on the top of the filter when the FAB was bolted in place. To
remedy this, just this past weekend, I took a piece of 062 aluminum and
made an oval slightly bigger than the outside dimensions of the filter...
the idea being that this would be a good wear surface to protect the FAB
fiberglass from the vibrating filter, and also space the filter up tighter
against the upper plate.
To secure the spacer, I "glued" it to the inside bottom of the FAB with a
full thin coat of black RTV. I did this as I didn't want any fasteners
inside the filter that could come loose and get sucked into the motor. I
was hesitant to use RTV, but I used just a thin layer so there isn't any
excess that smeared out (to later break off) and also, even if some RTV did
get out, it would be on the outside of the filter.
It looks like it's going to work well. Can anyone think of any concerns of
using black RTV to glue the spacer plate down??
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net
>
wrote:
> Vernon,
>
>
> I posted a note on this awhile back. As Tim Olson says, the air box need
s
> an aluminum plate between the bottom fiberglass and the air filter.
> Without it the air filter will wear away the bottom of the box. After
> re-glassing the air box on the RV-8A a couple of times I figured this out
.
>
>
> The other problem is the filter will deform with time as there is no
> structure in the box to hold the filter shape =93 the filter bottom
tends to
> shrink making the filter more conical than cylindrical (see photo #1).
> Adding the aluminum plate also provides a way to solve this problem using
> simple brackets, and adds reinforcement to mount the alt air control door
> (second photo). On assembly I added some Pro-seal between the bottom of
> the air box and the aluminum plate. The alt air door rivets sandwich the
> fiberglass between the plate and the door flange.
>
>
> The third photo shows the now fixed air box for the RV-8A (using the same
> K&N E-3450 filter as Van=99s provides for the RV-10. The fourth ph
oto shows
> the air box I made for the RV-10. You=99ll note the top plate is i
nverted.
> I did this to allow using the K&N E-1000 filter instead of the E-3450. T
he
> E-1000 filter is 3=9D tall as compared to the E-3450 that is 2.5
=9D tall. Note
> this photo was taken before I added the notch on the left side of the box
> to provide clearance for the control linkage (last photo).
>
>
> Carl
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Vernon Franklin
> *Sent:* Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Filter Air Box
>
>
> I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I
> have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass
> housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished
> riveting.
>
>
> Options I am thinking about:
>
> 1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
>
> 2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air
> filter
>
> 3) Live with it as is
>
>
> Any ideas or recommendations?
>
>
> --
>
> Vernon Franklin
>
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV10-List>*
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>*
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/contribu
tion>*
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Filter Air Box |
While I think maybe proseal would be "better", there is one particular
thing that I think makes your install just fine....the RTV is
all kept on the outside of the filter, even if you DID have
some break free. As long as you have nothing on the inner hole
of that bottom plate that could peel out and get sucked up, I'm
sure it'll be just fine. It will be trapped there forever.
I used epoxy on mine, which I don't think is ideal either.
But as long as it's done in a way that it can't be
ingested, I'm sure it's no problem.
Now, I did find just like Carl did, that the filter shrinks over
time. So, you probably want plenty of keepers to hold the filter
in place. (even more than what the plans specify). Personally,
I think I should have built them out of tougher material as well.
Given that, there ARE some rivets used that hold those spacers
that could be ingested. So that's an inspection item.
My keepers were made per-plans and they wore a little bit
as well, so that's why I'd suggest the tougher material up front.
Something that can withstand the filter's attempt to shrink.
Tim
On 5/4/2015 1:28 PM, Ed Kranz wrote:
> Interesting that this came up now.
>
> When I built my FAB, I wasn't happy that the upper plate was putting
> enough pressure on the top of the filter when the FAB was bolted in
> place. To remedy this, just this past weekend, I took a piece of 062
> aluminum and made an oval slightly bigger than the outside dimensions of
> the filter... the idea being that this would be a good wear surface to
> protect the FAB fiberglass from the vibrating filter, and also space the
> filter up tighter against the upper plate.
>
> To secure the spacer, I "glued" it to the inside bottom of the FAB with
> a full thin coat of black RTV. I did this as I didn't want any fasteners
> inside the filter that could come loose and get sucked into the motor. I
> was hesitant to use RTV, but I used just a thin layer so there isn't any
> excess that smeared out (to later break off) and also, even if some RTV
> did get out, it would be on the outside of the filter.
>
> It looks like it's going to work well. Can anyone think of any concerns
> of using black RTV to glue the spacer plate down??
>
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Re: Filter Air Box |
I typically use PRC or Proseal for any such applications.... Fuel proof, fa
irly permanent, and durable....
Do not archive
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 4, 2015, at 2:28 PM, Ed Kranz <ed.kranz@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Interesting that this came up now.
>
> When I built my FAB, I wasn't happy that the upper plate was putting enoug
h pressure on the top of the filter when the FAB was bolted in place. To rem
edy this, just this past weekend, I took a piece of 062 aluminum and made an
oval slightly bigger than the outside dimensions of the filter... the idea b
eing that this would be a good wear surface to protect the FAB fiberglass fr
om the vibrating filter, and also space the filter up tighter against the up
per plate.
>
> To secure the spacer, I "glued" it to the inside bottom of the FAB with a f
ull thin coat of black RTV. I did this as I didn't want any fasteners inside
the filter that could come loose and get sucked into the motor. I was hesit
ant to use RTV, but I used just a thin layer so there isn't any excess that s
meared out (to later break off) and also, even if some RTV did get out, it w
ould be on the outside of the filter.
>
> It looks like it's going to work well. Can anyone think of any concerns of
using black RTV to glue the spacer plate down??
>
>> On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.n
et> wrote:
>> Vernon,
>>
>>
>>
>> I posted a note on this awhile back. As Tim Olson says, the air box need
s an aluminum plate between the bottom fiberglass and the air filter. Witho
ut it the air filter will wear away the bottom of the box. After re-glassin
g the air box on the RV-8A a couple of times I figured this out.
>>
>>
>>
>> The other problem is the filter will deform with time as there is no stru
cture in the box to hold the filter shape =93 the filter bottom tends t
o shrink making the filter more conical than cylindrical (see photo #1). Ad
ding the aluminum plate also provides a way to solve this problem using simp
le brackets, and adds reinforcement to mount the alt air control door (secon
d photo). On assembly I added some Pro-seal between the bottom of the air b
ox and the aluminum plate. The alt air door rivets sandwich the fiberglass b
etween the plate and the door flange.
>>
>>
>>
>> The third photo shows the now fixed air box for the RV-8A (using the same
K&N E-3450 filter as Van=99s provides for the RV-10. The fourth phot
o shows the air box I made for the RV-10. You=99ll note the top plate
is inverted. I did this to allow using the K&N E-1000 filter instead of th
e E-3450. The E-1000 filter is 3=9D tall as compared to the E-3450 th
at is 2.5=9D tall. Note this photo was taken before I added the notch
on the left side of the box to provide clearance for the control linkage (l
ast photo).
>>
>>
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server
@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Franklin
>> Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Filter Air Box
>>
>>
>>
>> I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I ha
ve about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing.
I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
>>
>>
>>
>> Options I am thinking about:
>>
>> 1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
>>
>> 2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air fil
ter
>>
>> 3) Live with it as is
>>
>>
>>
>> Any ideas or recommendations?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Vernon Franklin
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Filter Air Box |
Silicone is not fuel resistant, not a good option.
> On May 4, 2015, at 9:45 AM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wr
ote:
>
> Perhaps a photo?
>
> Carl
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Franklin
> Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Filter Air Box
>
> I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I hav
e about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing.
I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
>
> Options I am thinking about:
> 1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
> 2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air filt
er
> 3) Live with it as is
>
> Any ideas or recommendations?
>
>
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Filter Air Box |
Thanks for the replies.
I'm not taking any chances in this area, so I'll peel up the plate and
re-adhere it with ProSeal!
Ed
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 2:19 PM, Gary <speckter@comcast.net> wrote:
> Silicone is not fuel resistant, not a good option.
>
>
> On May 4, 2015, at 9:45 AM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
> wrote:
>
> Perhaps a photo?
>
>
> Carl
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [
> mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of *Vernon Franklin
> *Sent:* Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Filter Air Box
>
>
> I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I
> have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass
> housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished
> riveting.
>
>
> Options I am thinking about:
>
> 1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
>
> 2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air
> filter
>
> 3) Live with it as is
>
>
> Any ideas or recommendations?
>
>
> --
>
> Vernon Franklin
>
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>*
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>*
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>*
>
>
> *
>
> D============================================
> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
> D============================================
> //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> D============================================
> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> D============================================
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: Filter Air Box |
Either ProSeal or fiberglass epoxy it in. I also see no issue using
countersunk rivets with the shop head on the outside.
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 12:36 PM, Ed Kranz <ed.kranz@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the replies.
>
> I'm not taking any chances in this area, so I'll peel up the plate and
> re-adhere it with ProSeal!
>
> Ed
>
> On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 2:19 PM, Gary <speckter@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Silicone is not fuel resistant, not a good option.
>>
>>
>>
>> On May 4, 2015, at 9:45 AM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Perhaps a photo?
>>
>>
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [
>> mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> <owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of *Vernon Franklin
>> *Sent:* Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
>> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: Filter Air Box
>>
>>
>>
>> I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I
>> have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass
>> housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished
>> riveting.
>>
>>
>>
>> Options I am thinking about:
>>
>> 1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
>>
>> 2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air
>> filter
>>
>> 3) Live with it as is
>>
>>
>>
>> Any ideas or recommendations?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Vernon Franklin
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>*
>>
>> *http://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>*
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>*
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> D============================================
>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>> D============================================
>> //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> D============================================
>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>> D============================================
>>
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: How long does your annual take? |
Thanks, everyone... glad it's not just me. I think the right long-term
solution is for my kids to grow up to the point they can turn a screwdriver
.
On Sat, May 2, 2015 at 7:29 AM, Rene <rene@felker.com> wrote:
> By myself, I might get it done in 16 hours. But it is hard to measure
> since I always have something to do on my to do list and while I have all
> the fairings off I clean and wax them, etc. And of course, you are doing
> this at an airport, so everybody visits when they see your car
one of the
> more enjoyable aspects of =9Cworking=9D at the airport.
>
>
> Rene'
>
> 801-721-6080
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rob Kochman
> *Sent:* Friday, May 01, 2015 9:21 PM
> *To:* rv10-list
> *Subject:* RV10-List: How long does your annual take?
>
>
> I'm curious how long (on average) everyone spends on their annual (or
> condition inspection, for the pedantic). I"m not including maintenance o
r
> upgrade deferred to annual time--just the inspection and tests. I'm
> probably at a good day and a half, which extends to two full days if you
> include the oil change and a few other items. Seems like a really long
> time, so curious if that's typical.
>
>
> -Rob
>
>
> --
>
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
>
> Woodinville, WA
>
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV10-List>*
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>*
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/contribu
tion>*
>
>
> *
>
===========
onics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
===========
===========
om/contribution>
===========
>
> *
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: How long does your annual take? |
A power screwdriver with adjustable torque works wonders. Just be sure
to break free each screw 1/8 of turn or so before applying power.
On 5/4/2015 1:50 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> Thanks, everyone... glad it's not just me. I think the right
> long-term solution is for my kids to grow up to the point they can
> turn a screwdriver.
>
> On Sat, May 2, 2015 at 7:29 AM, Rene <rene@felker.com
> <mailto:rene@felker.com>> wrote:
>
> By myself, I might get it done in 16 hours. But it is hard to
> measure since I always have something to do on my to do list and
> while I have all the fairings off I clean and wax them, etc. And
> of course, you are doing this at an airport, so everybody visits
> when they see your carone of the more enjoyable aspects of
> working at the airport.
>
> Rene'
>
> 801-721-6080 <tel:801-721-6080>
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of *Rob
> Kochman
> *Sent:* Friday, May 01, 2015 9:21 PM
> *To:* rv10-list
> *Subject:* RV10-List: How long does your annual take?
>
> I'm curious how long (on average) everyone spends on their annual
> (or condition inspection, for the pedantic). I"m not including
> maintenance or upgrade deferred to annual time--just the
> inspection and tests. I'm probably at a good day and a half,
> which extends to two full days if you include the oil change and a
> few other items. Seems like a really long time, so curious if
> that's typical.
>
> -Rob
>
> --
>
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
>
> Woodinville, WA
>
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> **
>
> * *
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
> *
>
>
> *
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: How long does your annual take? |
I put my 12-year-old to work one day per week already. He's perfect for open
ing panels and for crawling in the tailcones for inspection, lubrication and
fabrication. I've even used my 8-year-old a few times.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On May 4, 2015, at 4:50 PM, Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks, everyone... glad it's not just me. I think the right long-term so
lution is for my kids to grow up to the point they can turn a screwdriver.
>
>> On Sat, May 2, 2015 at 7:29 AM, Rene <rene@felker.com> wrote:
>> By myself, I might get it done in 16 hours. But it is hard to measure si
nce I always have something to do on my to do list and while I have all the f
airings off I clean and wax them, etc. And of course, you are doing this at
an airport, so everybody visits when they see your car
one of the more enjoyable aspects of =9Cworking=9D at the a
irport.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rene'
>>
>> 801-721-6080
>>
>>
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server
@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
>> Sent: Friday, May 01, 2015 9:21 PM
>> To: rv10-list
>> Subject: RV10-List: How long does your annual take?
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm curious how long (on average) everyone spends on their annual (or con
dition inspection, for the pedantic). I"m not including maintenance or upgr
ade deferred to annual time--just the inspection and tests. I'm probably at
a good day and a half, which extends to two full days if you include the oi
l change and a few other items. Seems like a really long time, so curious i
f that's typical.
>>
>>
>>
>> -Rob
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Rob Kochman
>> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
>>
>> Woodinville, WA
>>
>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Filter Air Box |
Thanks for the detailed photos and ideas.
I definitely think the aluminum plate protecting the fiberglass housing is
the right answer.
After Tim's comment of the fiberglass wearing out over time, I am surprised
that Van's has not addressed this as an AD on all models.
Vernon
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net
>
wrote:
> Vernon,
>
>
> I posted a note on this awhile back. As Tim Olson says, the air box need
s
> an aluminum plate between the bottom fiberglass and the air filter.
> Without it the air filter will wear away the bottom of the box. After
> re-glassing the air box on the RV-8A a couple of times I figured this out
.
>
>
> The other problem is the filter will deform with time as there is no
> structure in the box to hold the filter shape =93 the filter bottom
tends to
> shrink making the filter more conical than cylindrical (see photo #1).
> Adding the aluminum plate also provides a way to solve this problem using
> simple brackets, and adds reinforcement to mount the alt air control door
> (second photo). On assembly I added some Pro-seal between the bottom of
> the air box and the aluminum plate. The alt air door rivets sandwich the
> fiberglass between the plate and the door flange.
>
>
> The third photo shows the now fixed air box for the RV-8A (using the same
> K&N E-3450 filter as Van=99s provides for the RV-10. The fourth ph
oto shows
> the air box I made for the RV-10. You=99ll note the top plate is i
nverted.
> I did this to allow using the K&N E-1000 filter instead of the E-3450. T
he
> E-1000 filter is 3=9D tall as compared to the E-3450 that is 2.5
=9D tall. Note
> this photo was taken before I added the notch on the left side of the box
> to provide clearance for the control linkage (last photo).
>
>
> Carl
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Vernon Franklin
> *Sent:* Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: Filter Air Box
>
>
> I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I
> have about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass
> housing. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished
> riveting.
>
>
> Options I am thinking about:
>
> 1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
>
> 2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air
> filter
>
> 3) Live with it as is
>
>
> Any ideas or recommendations?
>
>
> --
>
> Vernon Franklin
>
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?RV10-List>*
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>*
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution <http://www.matronics.com/contribu
tion>*
>
>
--
Vernon Franklin
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Filter Air Box |
I agree. I have seen planes that came in for inspection where the filter was
about ready to fall through the bottom of the airbox.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On May 4, 2015, at 6:29 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com> wr
ote:
>
> Thanks for the detailed photos and ideas.
> I definitely think the aluminum plate protecting the fiberglass housing is
the right answer.
> After Tim's comment of the fiberglass wearing out over time, I am surprise
d that Van's has not addressed this as an AD on all models.
>
> Vernon
>
>> On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.n
et> wrote:
>> Vernon,
>>
>>
>>
>> I posted a note on this awhile back. As Tim Olson says, the air box need
s an aluminum plate between the bottom fiberglass and the air filter. Witho
ut it the air filter will wear away the bottom of the box. After re-glassin
g the air box on the RV-8A a couple of times I figured this out.
>>
>>
>>
>> The other problem is the filter will deform with time as there is no stru
cture in the box to hold the filter shape =93 the filter bottom tends t
o shrink making the filter more conical than cylindrical (see photo #1). Ad
ding the aluminum plate also provides a way to solve this problem using simp
le brackets, and adds reinforcement to mount the alt air control door (secon
d photo). On assembly I added some Pro-seal between the bottom of the air b
ox and the aluminum plate. The alt air door rivets sandwich the fiberglass b
etween the plate and the door flange.
>>
>>
>>
>> The third photo shows the now fixed air box for the RV-8A (using the same
K&N E-3450 filter as Van=99s provides for the RV-10. The fourth phot
o shows the air box I made for the RV-10. You=99ll note the top plate
is inverted. I did this to allow using the K&N E-1000 filter instead of th
e E-3450. The E-1000 filter is 3=9D tall as compared to the E-3450 th
at is 2.5=9D tall. Note this photo was taken before I added the notch
on the left side of the box to provide clearance for the control linkage (l
ast photo).
>>
>>
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server
@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Franklin
>> Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Filter Air Box
>>
>>
>>
>> I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I ha
ve about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing.
I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
>>
>>
>>
>> Options I am thinking about:
>>
>> 1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
>>
>> 2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air fil
ter
>>
>> 3) Live with it as is
>>
>>
>>
>> Any ideas or recommendations?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Vernon Franklin
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Filter Air Box |
I did send a note to Van's on this, and how I worked the fix. The response I
got led me to believe this is a known issue, and that they have recommended
adding the aluminum plate in the bottom of the air box to those who have ca
lled for help.
Carl
> On May 4, 2015, at 6:29 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com> wr
ote:
>
> Thanks for the detailed photos and ideas.
> I definitely think the aluminum plate protecting the fiberglass housing is
the right answer.
> After Tim's comment of the fiberglass wearing out over time, I am surprise
d that Van's has not addressed this as an AD on all models.
>
> Vernon
>
>> On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.n
et> wrote:
>> Vernon,
>>
>>
>>
>> I posted a note on this awhile back. As Tim Olson says, the air box need
s an aluminum plate between the bottom fiberglass and the air filter. Witho
ut it the air filter will wear away the bottom of the box. After re-glassin
g the air box on the RV-8A a couple of times I figured this out.
>>
>>
>>
>> The other problem is the filter will deform with time as there is no stru
cture in the box to hold the filter shape =93 the filter bottom tends t
o shrink making the filter more conical than cylindrical (see photo #1). Ad
ding the aluminum plate also provides a way to solve this problem using simp
le brackets, and adds reinforcement to mount the alt air control door (secon
d photo). On assembly I added some Pro-seal between the bottom of the air b
ox and the aluminum plate. The alt air door rivets sandwich the fiberglass b
etween the plate and the door flange.
>>
>>
>>
>> The third photo shows the now fixed air box for the RV-8A (using the same
K&N E-3450 filter as Van=99s provides for the RV-10. The fourth phot
o shows the air box I made for the RV-10. You=99ll note the top plate
is inverted. I did this to allow using the K&N E-1000 filter instead of th
e E-3450. The E-1000 filter is 3=9D tall as compared to the E-3450 th
at is 2.5=9D tall. Note this photo was taken before I added the notch
on the left side of the box to provide clearance for the control linkage (l
ast photo).
>>
>>
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server
@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Franklin
>> Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Filter Air Box
>>
>>
>>
>> I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I ha
ve about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing.
I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
>>
>>
>>
>> Options I am thinking about:
>>
>> 1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
>>
>> 2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air fil
ter
>>
>> 3) Live with it as is
>>
>>
>>
>> Any ideas or recommendations?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Vernon Franklin
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
>
>
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>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Filter Air Box |
As opposed to, gasp, just adding one more line to the FAB plans and putting o
ut a Maintenance Bulletin, so that all future RV's are built with improved d
esign...
Tim
> On May 4, 2015, at 6:30 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wr
ote:
>
> I did send a note to Van's on this, and how I worked the fix. The respons
e I got led me to believe this is a known issue, and that they have recommen
ded adding the aluminum plate in the bottom of the air box to those who have
called for help.
>
> Carl
>
>
>
>> On May 4, 2015, at 6:29 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com> w
rote:
>>
>> Thanks for the detailed photos and ideas.
>> I definitely think the aluminum plate protecting the fiberglass housing i
s the right answer.
>> After Tim's comment of the fiberglass wearing out over time, I am surpris
ed that Van's has not addressed this as an AD on all models.
>>
>> Vernon
>>
>>> On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 12:08 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.
net> wrote:
>>> Vernon,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I posted a note on this awhile back. As Tim Olson says, the air box nee
ds an aluminum plate between the bottom fiberglass and the air filter. With
out it the air filter will wear away the bottom of the box. After re-glassi
ng the air box on the RV-8A a couple of times I figured this out.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The other problem is the filter will deform with time as there is no str
ucture in the box to hold the filter shape =93 the filter bottom tends
to shrink making the filter more conical than cylindrical (see photo #1). A
dding the aluminum plate also provides a way to solve this problem using sim
ple brackets, and adds reinforcement to mount the alt air control door (seco
nd photo). On assembly I added some Pro-seal between the bottom of the air b
ox and the aluminum plate. The alt air door rivets sandwich the fiberglass b
etween the plate and the door flange.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The third photo shows the now fixed air box for the RV-8A (using the sam
e K&N E-3450 filter as Van=99s provides for the RV-10. The fourth pho
to shows the air box I made for the RV-10. You=99ll note the top plat
e is inverted. I did this to allow using the K&N E-1000 filter instead of t
he E-3450. The E-1000 filter is 3=9D tall as compared to the E-3450 t
hat is 2.5=9D tall. Note this photo was taken before I added the notc
h on the left side of the box to provide clearance for the control linkage (
last photo).
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-serve
r@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vernon Franklin
>>> Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 9:09 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Filter Air Box
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I finished the FAB this weekend, and after it was all said and done, I h
ave about a 3/32" gap between the air filter seal and the fiberglass housing
. I think the fiberglass bowed out a little after I finished riveting.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Options I am thinking about:
>>>
>>> 1) A bead of RTV around the circumference of the filter.
>>>
>>> 2) Use aluminum and try to build up some kind of lip around the air fi
lter
>>>
>>> 3) Live with it as is
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Any ideas or recommendations?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> Vernon Franklin
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Vernon Franklin
>>
>>
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> //forums.matronics.com
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>>
>>
>
>
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D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Filter Air Box |
On 05/04/2015 05:45 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
> As opposed to, gasp, just adding one more line to the FAB plans and
> putting out a Maintenance Bulletin, so that all future RV's are built
> with improved design...
> Tim
That'd be nice, but it's much appreciated that this list keeps me
apprised of so many of these issues as I go. I'm thinking that a sort
of centralized list of areas where Van's supplied parts or instructions
are widely known to be inadequate would be really nice for the next
person. All the information is out there, but it's hard to come by.
Has anyone started such a list before I go creating one?
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: How long does your annual take? |
Yeah... There's the key.
Break them loose by hand before applying power. If the bit slips, even once, toss
it and mount a new one. Toss any screw with ANY damage to the drive recess.
Then, Boelube or ACS-50 on the threads before re-assembly.
Run the screws in with the screw gun clutch set to its minimum torque and finish
by hand...
Neal George
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 4, 2015, at 4:03 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
>
>
> A power screwdriver with adjustable torque works wonders. Just be sure to break
free each screw 1/8 of turn or so before applying power.
>
> On 5/4/2015 1:50 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
>> Thanks, everyone... glad it's not just me. I think the right long-term solution
is for my kids to grow up to the point they can turn a screwdriver.
>>
>> On Sat, May 2, 2015 at 7:29 AM, Rene <rene@felker.com <mailto:rene@felker.com>> wrote:
>>
>> By myself, I might get it done in 16 hours. But it is hard to
>> measure since I always have something to do on my to do list and
>> while I have all the fairings off I clean and wax them, etc. And
>> of course, you are doing this at an airport, so everybody visits
>> when they see your carone of the more enjoyable aspects of
>> working at the airport.
>>
>> Rene'
>>
>> 801-721-6080 <tel:801-721-6080>
>>
>> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of *Rob
>> Kochman
>> *Sent:* Friday, May 01, 2015 9:21 PM
>> *To:* rv10-list
>> *Subject:* RV10-List: How long does your annual take?
>>
>> I'm curious how long (on average) everyone spends on their annual
>> (or condition inspection, for the pedantic). I"m not including
>> maintenance or upgrade deferred to annual time--just the
>> inspection and tests. I'm probably at a good day and a half,
>> which extends to two full days if you include the oil change and a
>> few other items. Seems like a really long time, so curious if
>> that's typical.
>>
>> -Rob
>>
>> --
>> Rob Kochman
>> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
>>
>> Woodinville, WA
>>
>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>>
>> * *
>>
>> * *
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> **
>>
>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>>
>> **
>>
>> * *
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Rob Kochman
>> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
>> Woodinville, WA
>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: How long does your annual take? |
Agreed. Liquid BoeLube is excellent for reducing torque needed to run
screws into nut plates.
On 5/4/2015 7:35 PM, Neal George wrote:
>
> Yeah... There's the key.
>
> Break them loose by hand before applying power. If the bit slips, even once,
toss it and mount a new one. Toss any screw with ANY damage to the drive recess.
Then, Boelube or ACS-50 on the threads before re-assembly.
>
> Run the screws in with the screw gun clutch set to its minimum torque and finish
by hand...
>
> Neal George
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On May 4, 2015, at 4:03 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> A power screwdriver with adjustable torque works wonders. Just be sure to break
free each screw 1/8 of turn or so before applying power.
>>
>> On 5/4/2015 1:50 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
>>> Thanks, everyone... glad it's not just me. I think the right long-term solution
is for my kids to grow up to the point they can turn a screwdriver.
>>>
>>> On Sat, May 2, 2015 at 7:29 AM, Rene <rene@felker.com <mailto:rene@felker.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>> By myself, I might get it done in 16 hours. But it is hard to
>>> measure since I always have something to do on my to do list and
>>> while I have all the fairings off I clean and wax them, etc. And
>>> of course, you are doing this at an airport, so everybody visits
>>> when they see your carone of the more enjoyable aspects of
>>> working at the airport.
>>>
>>> Rene'
>>>
>>> 801-721-6080 <tel:801-721-6080>
>>>
>>> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> <mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of *Rob
>>> Kochman
>>> *Sent:* Friday, May 01, 2015 9:21 PM
>>> *To:* rv10-list
>>> *Subject:* RV10-List: How long does your annual take?
>>>
>>> I'm curious how long (on average) everyone spends on their annual
>>> (or condition inspection, for the pedantic). I"m not including
>>> maintenance or upgrade deferred to annual time--just the
>>> inspection and tests. I'm probably at a good day and a half,
>>> which extends to two full days if you include the oil change and a
>>> few other items. Seems like a really long time, so curious if
>>> that's typical.
>>>
>>> -Rob
>>>
>>> --
>>> Rob Kochman
>>> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
>>>
>>> Woodinville, WA
>>>
>>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List*
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Rob Kochman
>>> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
>>> Woodinville, WA
>>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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