RV10-List Digest Archive

Wed 07/08/15


Total Messages Posted: 14



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:15 AM - Windscreen Die (Rich Hansen)
     2. 07:33 AM - engine cables (David)
     3. 07:42 AM - Re: Windscreen Die (Shannon Hicks)
     4. 07:51 AM - Re: Windscreen Die (Pascal)
     5. 08:08 AM - Re: Windscreen Die (Shannon Hicks)
     6. 09:24 AM - Cee Baileys windscreen was Re: Windscreen Die  (Pascal)
     7. 10:00 AM - Re: Windscreen Die (Linn Walters)
     8. 10:18 AM - Re: Cee Baileys windscreen was Re: Windscreen Die  (Bob Leffler)
     9. 01:44 PM - Re: Windscreen Die (Shannon Hicks)
    10. 05:18 PM - Re: Windscreen Die (Bob Turner)
    11. 06:43 PM - Re: Not renewing website (Tim Olson)
    12. 08:34 PM - Johnson Creek, ID (Albert)
    13. 09:40 PM - Re: Not renewing website (Deems Davis)
    14. 09:48 PM - Re: Johnson Creek, ID (Pascal)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 07:15:50 AM PST US
    From: Rich Hansen <karolamy@roadrunner.com>
    Subject: Windscreen Die
    Chris, Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't remember the brand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins and was black in color. Although I wouldn't say it created any huge complications, it did little to actually turn the epoxy black as I'd hoped for. Turned it a light gray at best. There was a volume limit caution with the die also, so you couldn't just say, "well a little is good so a lot will be better". It also was a liquid, not powder. My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 used the same windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen from inside was never bothersome, especially after being painted. In the 10 however we sit a bit higher. After completing the windscreen layup I checked the appearance from inside. Didn't like it & too much was visible. Everyone has a different opinion, but I like the way automotive glass today has a black painted border on the inside perimeter. This paint allows the hiding of trim pieces (pillar post, headliner, etc) while looking from outside in. I copied that. Using 3M fine line tape was able to get a decent border on the inside of the windscreen and shoot it a semi flat black. It's about 2 minutes of painting, and an hour or so of masking, but came out nicely. Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in position the lower fwd section of windscreen. I could actually make those out (looking inside out) after the layup on mine. After paint of course, gone. This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site before, so check archives if you are interested. Good luck with your sanding! > > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:33:24 AM PST US
    From: "David" <dlm34077@cox.net>
    Subject: engine cables
    My experience with the Vans supplied cables. I live in a hot part of the world and the Vans supplied cables last about 400-500 hours before stiffening and becoming unmovable. The internal cores melt after shutdown as temperatures in the cowl rise. I have purchased and will install the Teflon cables (600F) from ACS next annual. In the meantime at about 450 hours I first replaced all vans cables. BTW give yourselves some flexibility in routing: order lengths of 51(T), 52(M), and 72(P) inches for the cables. At 930 hours I replaced the throttle cable again; the short supplied cable and the standoff don't move the throttle cable far enough from the oil sump even though I fire sleeved the cable. Currently the mixture cable is within a year of replacement and the prop cable still functions normally. The problem is that the supplied non aviation cables (tractor or marine) are made of different materials and are not rated for the higher temperatures found in an aircraft engine cowl that has just been flown and then shutdown. N46007 TT 940 David in AZ --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:42:48 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Windscreen Die
    From: Shannon Hicks <civeng123@gmail.com>
    Thank you all for your input on this. It has given me much to think about. Does anyone have any photos of what the inside of the non-dyed fairing looks like after paint? Thanks, Shannon Hicks On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:11 AM, Rich Hansen <karolamy@roadrunner.com> wrote: > > > Chris, > Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't remember the > brand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins and was black in > color. Although I wouldn't say it created any huge complications, it did > little to actually turn the epoxy black as I'd hoped for. Turned it a > light gray at best. There was a volume limit caution with the die also, so > you couldn't just say, "well a little is good so a lot will be better". It > also was a liquid, not powder. > My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 used the > same windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen from inside was > never bothersome, especially after being painted. In the 10 however we > sit a bit higher. After completing the windscreen layup I checked the > appearance from inside. Didn't like it & too much was visible. Everyone > has a different opinion, but I like the way automotive glass today has a > black painted border on the inside perimeter. This paint allows the > hiding of trim pieces (pillar post, headliner, etc) while looking from > outside in. I copied that. Using 3M fine line tape was able to get a > decent border on the inside of the windscreen and shoot it a semi flat > black. It's about 2 minutes of painting, and an hour or so of masking, but > came out nicely. > Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in position the > lower fwd section of windscreen. I could actually make those out (looking > inside out) after the layup on mine. After paint of course, gone. > This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site before, > so check archives if you are interested. Good luck with your sanding! > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:51:18 AM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer@live.com>
    Subject: Re: Windscreen Die
    I used the AS pigment- http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/epoxyPigments.php?clickkey=334111 A little bit went a long way. I found that it did a very nice job making it black and would use/do it again. One needs to be careful however. once it touches something it is virtually impossible to clean it up completely. -----Original Message----- From: Rich Hansen Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 7:11 AM Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen Die Chris, Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't remember the brand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins and was black in color. Although I wouldn't say it created any huge complications, it did little to actually turn the epoxy black as I'd hoped for. Turned it a light gray at best. There was a volume limit caution with the die also, so you couldn't just say, "well a little is good so a lot will be better". It also was a liquid, not powder. My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 used the same windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen from inside was never bothersome, especially after being painted. In the 10 however we sit a bit higher. After completing the windscreen layup I checked the appearance from inside. Didn't like it & too much was visible. Everyone has a different opinion, but I like the way automotive glass today has a black painted border on the inside perimeter. This paint allows the hiding of trim pieces (pillar post, headliner, etc) while looking from outside in. I copied that. Using 3M fine line tape was able to get a decent border on the inside of the windscreen and shoot it a semi flat black. It's about 2 minutes of painting, and an hour or so of masking, but came out nicely. Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in position the lower fwd section of windscreen. I could actually make those out (looking inside out) after the layup on mine. After paint of course, gone. This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site before, so check archives if you are interested. Good luck with your sanding! > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:08:22 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Windscreen Die
    From: Shannon Hicks <civeng123@gmail.com>
    Thanks Pascal. This is the pigment I have on order along with the Alumiprep and Alodine. I may try a dry run on some scrap aluminum just to get the hang of it prior to going full scale. Now I need to spend the next week trying to get this Cee-Baley windshield to fit. It looks like I'm going to have to do some serious sanding to get this thing to fit. When it sits flush on my upper fuselage, I only have about 1/4"-1/2" overlap on the top portion of the cabin top flange....This means I'm going to have to remove about 1/2" from the corners of the plexi so it can slide back. Maybe they have fixed these fit issues since I ordered mine 3 years ago, but they are no where near drop in place. Shannon On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote: > > I used the AS pigment- > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/epoxyPigments.php?clickkey=334111 > A little bit went a long way. I found that it did a very nice job making > it black and would use/do it again. > One needs to be careful however. once it touches something it is virtually > impossible to clean it up completely. > > > -----Original Message----- From: Rich Hansen > Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 7:11 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen Die > > > > > Chris, > Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't remember the > brand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins and was black in > color. Although I wouldn't say it created any huge complications, it did > little to actually turn the epoxy black as I'd hoped for. Turned it a > light gray at best. There was a volume limit caution with the die also, so > you couldn't just say, "well a little is good so a lot will be better". It > also was a liquid, not powder. > My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 used the > same windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen from inside was > never bothersome, especially after being painted. In the 10 however we > sit a bit higher. After completing the windscreen layup I checked the > appearance from inside. Didn't like it & too much was visible. Everyone > has a different opinion, but I like the way automotive glass today has a > black painted border on the inside perimeter. This paint allows the > hiding of trim pieces (pillar post, headliner, etc) while looking from > outside in. I copied that. Using 3M fine line tape was able to get a > decent border on the inside of the windscreen and shoot it a semi flat > black. It's about 2 minutes of painting, and an hour or so of masking, but > came out nicely. > Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in position the > lower fwd section of windscreen. I could actually make those out (looking > inside out) after the layup on mine. After paint of course, gone. > This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site before, so > check archives if you are interested. Good luck with your sanding! > > >> >> >> >> > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:24:42 AM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer@live.com>
    Subject: Re: Windscreen Die
    I was part of the windscreen design and another local builder the side windows. When the design was shaped on my (pink) cabin I told Cee baileys that there was a chance Vans would have a newer cabin top as they had changed something from the original Green to Pink. As a result 1/4 added all around the windscreen, and I heard less for the windows. This was done to allow for the builder to final fit the plexi on the plane. If it was truly =9Cdrop in=9D without (minor) adjustments there was the chance of there being a gap or not a perfect fit. By adding the extra around it allows the builder to adjust for their specific fit. As precise as I would like to believe the aluminum is, the fiberglass work from Vans is not always the same from one to the other canopy. I assure you that you are doing far less with that windscreen than you would with the Vans. I originally had the Vans and it was hours of cutting and trimming only to find that I had a bulge on my right bottom. The one Cee Baileys made for me was pretty darn close to be perfect once I made the final fit. If I gave the impression that the windscreen was a drop in place, I apologize . I spent about 2-3 hours on mine. as for the side windows they should be really close to drop in (again with minor extra room for final shaping) One other item- the plexi in the Cee Baileys is superior to the Vans. it was clearer and shaped more precisely in my case. Thank you for the feedback! Pascal From: Shannon Hicks Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 8:05 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windscreen Die Thanks Pascal. This is the pigment I have on order along with the Alumiprep and Alodine. I may try a dry run on some scrap aluminum just to get the hang of it prior to going full scale. Now I need to spend the next week trying to get this Cee-Baley windshield to fit. It looks like I'm going to have to do some serious sanding to get this thing to fit. When it sits flush on my upper fuselage, I only have about 1/4"-1/2" overlap on the top portion of the cabin top flange....This means I'm going to have to remove about 1/2" from the corners of the plexi so it can slide back. Maybe they have fixed these fit issues since I ordered mine 3 years ago, but they are no where near drop in place. Shannon On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote: I used the AS pigment- http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/epoxyPigments.php?clickkey= 334111 A little bit went a long way. I found that it did a very nice job making it black and would use/do it again. One needs to be careful however. once it touches something it is virtually impossible to clean it up completely. -----Original Message----- From: Rich Hansen Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 7:11 AM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen Die Chris, Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't remember the brand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins and was black in color. Although I wouldn't say it created any huge complications, it did little to actually turn the epoxy black as I'd hoped for. Turned it a light gray at best. There was a volume limit caution with the die also, so you couldn't just say, "well a little is good so a lot will be better". It also was a liquid, not powder. My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 used the same windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen from inside was never bothersome, especially after being painted. In the 10 however we sit a bit higher. After completing the windscreen layup I checked the appearance from inside. Didn't like it & too much was visible. Everyone has a different opinion, but I like the way automotive glass today has a black painted border on the inside perimeter. This paint allows the hiding of trim pieces (pillar post, headliner, etc) while looking from outside in. I copied that. Using 3M fine line tape was able to get a decent border on the inside of the windscreen and shoot it a semi flat black. It's about 2 minutes of painting, and an hour or so of masking, but came out nicely. Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in position the lower fwd section of windscreen. I could actually make those out (looking inside out) after the layup on mine. After paint of course, gone. This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site before, so check archives if you are interested. Good luck with your sanding! ========== -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List ========== FORUMS - eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com ========== b Site - -Matt Dralle, List Admin. rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ==========


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:00:01 AM PST US
    From: Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Windscreen Die
    I clecoed a piece of scrap angle aluminum where the front of the windshield sits on the upper fuse and laid the windshield against it to keep the windshield from sliding fwd. I marked where the cabin top edge met the windshield with a sharpie and trimmed to that line. The belt sander made quick work of final fitting. My windshield fit flush all the way around the upper fuse with the exception of an area on both sides just fwd of the fiberglass top. A clip riveted to the upper fuse solved that problem. Linn On 7/8/2015 11:05 AM, Shannon Hicks wrote: > Thanks Pascal. This is the pigment I have on order along with the > Alumiprep and Alodine. I may try a dry run on some scrap aluminum > just to get the hang of it prior to going full scale. > > Now I need to spend the next week trying to get this Cee-Baley > windshield to fit. It looks like I'm going to have to do some serious > sanding to get this thing to fit. When it sits flush on my upper > fuselage, I only have about 1/4"-1/2" overlap on the top portion of > the cabin top flange....This means I'm going to have to remove about > 1/2" from the corners of the plexi so it can slide back. Maybe they > have fixed these fit issues since I ordered mine 3 years ago, but they > are no where near drop in place. > > Shannon > > On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com > <mailto:rv10flyer@live.com>> wrote: > > <mailto:rv10flyer@live.com>> > > I used the AS pigment- > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/epoxyPigments.php?clickkey=334111 > A little bit went a long way. I found that it did a very nice job > making it black and would use/do it again. > One needs to be careful however. once it touches something it is > virtually impossible to clean it up completely. > > > -----Original Message----- From: Rich Hansen > Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 7:11 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com> > Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen Die > > > <karolamy@roadrunner.com <mailto:karolamy@roadrunner.com>> > > > Chris, > Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't > remember the brand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins > and was black in color. Although I wouldn't say it created any > huge complications, it did little to actually turn the epoxy black > as I'd hoped for. Turned it a light gray at best. There was a > volume limit caution with the die also, so you couldn't just say, > "well a little is good so a lot will be better". It also was a > liquid, not powder. > My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 > used the same windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen > from inside was never bothersome, especially after being painted. > In the 10 however we sit a bit higher. After completing the > windscreen layup I checked the appearance from inside. Didn't > like it & too much was visible. Everyone has a different opinion, > but I like the way automotive glass today has a black painted > border on the inside perimeter. This paint allows the hiding of > trim pieces (pillar post, headliner, etc) while looking from > outside in. I copied that. Using 3M fine line tape was able to > get a decent border on the inside of the windscreen and shoot it a > semi flat black. It's about 2 minutes of painting, and an hour or > so of masking, but came out nicely. > Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in > position the lower fwd section of windscreen. I could actually > make those out (looking inside out) after the layup on mine. > After paint of course, gone. > This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site > before, so check archives if you are interested. Good luck with > your sanding! > > > ========== > -List" rel="noreferrer" > target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > ========== > FORUMS - > eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > b Site - > -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > * > > > * > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com> >


    Message 8


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    Time: 10:18:40 AM PST US
    From: Bob Leffler <rv@thelefflers.com>
    Subject: Re: Windscreen Die
    Compound that with there is at least two variations of pink cabin covers. T he joggle between the front and back have different dimensions. Who knows w hat other variances there may be? Sent from my iPhone On Jul 8, 2015, at 12:21 PM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote: I was part of the windscreen design and another local builder the side windo ws. When the design was shaped on my (pink) cabin I told Cee baileys that th ere was a chance Vans would have a newer cabin top as they had changed somet hing from the original Green to Pink. As a result 1/4 added all around the w indscreen, and I heard less for the windows. This was done to allow for the b uilder to final fit the plexi on the plane. If it was truly =9Cdrop in =9D without (minor) adjustments there was the chance of there being a g ap or not a perfect fit. By adding the extra around it allows the builder to adjust for their specific fit. As precise as I would like to believe the al uminum is, the fiberglass work from Vans is not always the same from one to t he other canopy. I assure you that you are doing far less with that windscre en than you would with the Vans. I originally had the Vans and it was hours o f cutting and trimming only to find that I had a bulge on my right bottom. T he one Cee Baileys made for me was pretty darn close to be perfect once I ma de the final fit. If I gave the impression that the windscreen was a drop in place, I apologize . I spent about 2-3 hours on mine. as for the side windows they should be really close to drop in (again with m inor extra room for final shaping) One other item- the plexi in the Cee Baileys is superior to the Vans. it was clearer and shaped more precisely in my case. Thank you for the feedback! Pascal From: Shannon Hicks Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 8:05 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windscreen Die Thanks Pascal. This is the pigment I have on order along with the Alumiprep and Alodine. I may try a dry run on some scrap aluminum just to get the ha ng of it prior to going full scale. Now I need to spend the next week trying to get this Cee-Baley windshield to fit. It looks like I'm going to have to do some serious sanding to get thi s thing to fit. When it sits flush on my upper fuselage, I only have about 1 /4"-1/2" overlap on the top portion of the cabin top flange....This means I' m going to have to remove about 1/2" from the corners of the plexi so it can slide back. Maybe they have fixed these fit issues since I ordered mine 3 years ago, but they are no where near drop in place. Shannon > On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote: > > I used the AS pigment- http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/epoxy Pigments.php?clickkey=334111 > A little bit went a long way. I found that it did a very nice job making i t black and would use/do it again. > One needs to be careful however. once it touches something it is virtua lly impossible to clean it up completely. > > > -----Original Message----- From: Rich Hansen > Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 7:11 AM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen Die > > > > > > Chris, > Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't remember the b rand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins and was black in color. A lthough I wouldn't say it created any huge complications, it did little to a ctually turn the epoxy black as I'd hoped for. Turned it a light gray at be st. There was a volume limit caution with the die also, so you couldn't jus t say, "well a little is good so a lot will be better". It also was a liqui d, not powder. > My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 used the sa me windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen from inside was neve r bothersome, especially after being painted. In the 10 however we sit a bit higher. After completing the windscreen layup I checked the appearance from inside. Didn't like it & too much was visible. Everyone has a differ ent opinion, but I like the way automotive glass today has a black painted b order on the inside perimeter. This paint allows the hiding of trim pieces (pillar post, headliner, etc) while looking from outside in. I copied that. Using 3M fine line tape was able to get a decent border on the inside of t he windscreen and shoot it a semi flat black. It's about 2 minutes of paint ing, and an hour or so of masking, but came out nicely. > Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in position the low er fwd section of windscreen. I could actually make those out (looking insi de out) after the layup on mine. After paint of course, gone. > This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site before, so c heck archives if you are interested. Good luck with your sanding! > >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > ========== > -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navig ator?RV10-List > ========== > FORUMS - > eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com > ========== > b Site - > -Matt Dralle, List Admin. > rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > ========== > > > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.c om/Navigator?RV10-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D


    Message 9


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    Time: 01:44:47 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Windscreen Die
    From: Shannon Hicks <civeng123@gmail.com>
    It looks like I had a misunderstanding of what the Cee-Bailey plexi would give me. So when they weren't "plug and play", I was under the false assumption that I had some bad stuff. Now that I know the intent was to leave 1/4" for final fit up it makes a lot more sense. These last few steps have been a real booger compared to the first 95%. of the build. I have learned that I like aluminum much more than either fiber or plexi glass. Shannon On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 11:56 AM, Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com> wrote: > I clecoed a piece of scrap angle aluminum where the front of the > windshield sits on the upper fuse and laid the windshield against it to > keep the windshield from sliding fwd. I marked where the cabin top edge > met the windshield with a sharpie and trimmed to that line. The belt > sander made quick work of final fitting. My windshield fit flush all the > way around the upper fuse with the exception of an area on both sides just > fwd of the fiberglass top. A clip riveted to the upper fuse solved that > problem. > Linn > > > On 7/8/2015 11:05 AM, Shannon Hicks wrote: > > Thanks Pascal. This is the pigment I have on order along with the > Alumiprep and Alodine. I may try a dry run on some scrap aluminum just to > get the hang of it prior to going full scale. > > Now I need to spend the next week trying to get this Cee-Baley > windshield to fit. It looks like I'm going to have to do some serious > sanding to get this thing to fit. When it sits flush on my upper fuselage, > I only have about 1/4"-1/2" overlap on the top portion of the cabin top > flange....This means I'm going to have to remove about 1/2" from the > corners of the plexi so it can slide back. Maybe they have fixed these > fit issues since I ordered mine 3 years ago, but they are no where near > drop in place. > > Shannon > > On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote: > >> >> I used the AS pigment- >> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/epoxyPigments.php?clickkey=334111 >> A little bit went a long way. I found that it did a very nice job making >> it black and would use/do it again. >> One needs to be careful however. once it touches something it is >> virtually impossible to clean it up completely. >> >> >> -----Original Message----- From: Rich Hansen >> Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 7:11 AM >> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen Die >> >> >> >> >> >> Chris, >> Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't remember the >> brand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins and was black in >> color. Although I wouldn't say it created any huge complications, it did >> little to actually turn the epoxy black as I'd hoped for. Turned it a >> light gray at best. There was a volume limit caution with the die also, so >> you couldn't just say, "well a little is good so a lot will be better". It >> also was a liquid, not powder. >> My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 used the >> same windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen from inside was >> never bothersome, especially after being painted. In the 10 however we >> sit a bit higher. After completing the windscreen layup I checked the >> appearance from inside. Didn't like it & too much was visible. Everyone >> has a different opinion, but I like the way automotive glass today has a >> black painted border on the inside perimeter. This paint allows the >> hiding of trim pieces (pillar post, headliner, etc) while looking from >> outside in. I copied that. Using 3M fine line tape was able to get a >> decent border on the inside of the windscreen and shoot it a semi flat >> black. It's about 2 minutes of painting, and an hour or so of masking, but >> came out nicely. >> Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in position the >> lower fwd section of windscreen. I could actually make those out (looking >> inside out) after the layup on mine. After paint of course, gone. >> This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site before, >> so check archives if you are interested. Good luck with your sanding! >> >> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> ========== >> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank"> >> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List >> ========== >> FORUMS - >> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========== >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> ========== >> >> >> >> > > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Date: 07/08/15 > > > * > > > * > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 05:18:11 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Windscreen Die
    From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
    Can anyone change the title to "dye"? I thought someone was trying to put threads in their windscreen! -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=444580#444580


    Message 11


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    Time: 06:43:28 PM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: Not renewing website
    It should be available now. I haven't yet updated or added any links to it so unless you have the path you wouldn't find it yet, but it's at: http://www.myrv10.com/N519PJ It's hosted at my house, so when y'all hammer my site, it means my surfing speed goes down, but it doesn't add a lot of cost for me that way. Tim do not archive On 7/7/2015 8:56 PM, Deems Davis wrote: > Just to let everybody know, Tim Olson has offered to copy the site and > include it on his site. I created an archived copy of the site and > Tim's going to do his magic. We had an issue yesterday getting access > to the portal, but it appears to be resolved. I/ Tim will let folks > know when its available . > > Thanks > > Deems >


    Message 12


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    Time: 08:34:22 PM PST US
    From: "Albert" <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
    Subject: Johnson Creek, ID
    Tim, I'm heading for Johnson Creek, Idaho in 10 days or so. I remember you flying in there a coupla of years ago, did you take any stills or video of your approach/landing? Albert Gardner RV-10 N991RV Yuma, AZ


    Message 13


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    Time: 09:40:02 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Not renewing website
    From: Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net>
    Tim MANY MANY THANKS!!!!! Deems On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 6:40 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote: > > It should be available now. I haven't yet updated or added any links to it > so unless you have the path you wouldn't find it yet, but it's at: > > http://www.myrv10.com/N519PJ > > It's hosted at my house, so when y'all hammer my site, it means my surfing > speed goes down, but it doesn't add a lot of cost for me that way. > Tim > > do not archive > > On 7/7/2015 8:56 PM, Deems Davis wrote: > >> Just to let everybody know, Tim Olson has offered to copy the site and >> include it on his site. I created an archived copy of the site and Tim's >> going to do his magic. We had an issue yesterday getting access to the >> portal, but it appears to be resolved. I/ Tim will let folks know when its >> available . >> >> Thanks >> >> Deems >> >> > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 09:48:02 PM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer@live.com>
    Subject: Re: Johnson Creek, ID
    Try these Albert https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=johnson+creek+airport -----Original Message----- From: Albert Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 8:30 PM Subject: RV10-List: Johnson Creek, ID Tim, I'm heading for Johnson Creek, Idaho in 10 days or so. I remember you flying in there a coupla of years ago, did you take any stills or video of your approach/landing? Albert Gardner RV-10 N991RV Yuma, AZ




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