Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:15 AM - Windscreen Die (Rich Hansen)
2. 07:33 AM - engine cables (David)
3. 07:42 AM - Re: Windscreen Die (Shannon Hicks)
4. 07:51 AM - Re: Windscreen Die (Pascal)
5. 08:08 AM - Re: Windscreen Die (Shannon Hicks)
6. 09:24 AM - Cee Baileys windscreen was Re: Windscreen Die (Pascal)
7. 10:00 AM - Re: Windscreen Die (Linn Walters)
8. 10:18 AM - Re: Cee Baileys windscreen was Re: Windscreen Die (Bob Leffler)
9. 01:44 PM - Re: Windscreen Die (Shannon Hicks)
10. 05:18 PM - Re: Windscreen Die (Bob Turner)
11. 06:43 PM - Re: Not renewing website (Tim Olson)
12. 08:34 PM - Johnson Creek, ID (Albert)
13. 09:40 PM - Re: Not renewing website (Deems Davis)
14. 09:48 PM - Re: Johnson Creek, ID (Pascal)
Message 1
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Chris,
Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't remember the brand,
but it was made specifically for epoxy resins and was black in color. Although
I wouldn't say it created any huge complications, it did little to actually
turn the epoxy black as I'd hoped for. Turned it a light gray at best. There
was a volume limit caution with the die also, so you couldn't just say, "well
a little is good so a lot will be better". It also was a liquid, not powder.
My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 used the same
windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen from inside was never bothersome,
especially after being painted. In the 10 however we sit a bit higher.
After completing the windscreen layup I checked the appearance from inside.
Didn't like it & too much was visible. Everyone has a different opinion,
but I like the way automotive glass today has a black painted border on the inside
perimeter. This paint allows the hiding of trim pieces (pillar post, headliner,
etc) while looking from outside in. I copied that. Using 3M fine line
tape was able to get a decent border on the inside of the windscreen and shoot
it a semi flat black. It's about 2 minutes of painting, and an hour or so
of masking, but came out nicely.
Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in position the lower
fwd section of windscreen. I could actually make those out (looking inside out)
after the layup on mine. After paint of course, gone.
This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site before, so check
archives if you are interested. Good luck with your sanding!
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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My experience with the Vans supplied cables. I live in a hot part of the
world and the Vans supplied cables last about 400-500 hours before
stiffening and becoming unmovable. The internal cores melt after shutdown as
temperatures in the cowl rise. I have purchased and will install the Teflon
cables (600F) from ACS next annual. In the meantime at about 450 hours I
first replaced all vans cables. BTW give yourselves some flexibility in
routing: order lengths of 51(T), 52(M), and 72(P) inches for the cables. At
930 hours I replaced the throttle cable again; the short supplied cable and
the standoff don't move the throttle cable far enough from the oil sump even
though I fire sleeved the cable. Currently the mixture cable is within a
year of replacement and the prop cable still functions normally. The problem
is that the supplied non aviation cables (tractor or marine) are made of
different materials and are not rated for the higher temperatures found in
an aircraft engine cowl that has just been flown and then shutdown.
N46007 TT 940
David in AZ
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Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen Die |
Thank you all for your input on this. It has given me much to think
about. Does anyone have any photos of what the inside of the non-dyed
fairing looks like after paint?
Thanks,
Shannon Hicks
On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:11 AM, Rich Hansen <karolamy@roadrunner.com> wrote:
>
>
> Chris,
> Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't remember the
> brand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins and was black in
> color. Although I wouldn't say it created any huge complications, it did
> little to actually turn the epoxy black as I'd hoped for. Turned it a
> light gray at best. There was a volume limit caution with the die also, so
> you couldn't just say, "well a little is good so a lot will be better". It
> also was a liquid, not powder.
> My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 used the
> same windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen from inside was
> never bothersome, especially after being painted. In the 10 however we
> sit a bit higher. After completing the windscreen layup I checked the
> appearance from inside. Didn't like it & too much was visible. Everyone
> has a different opinion, but I like the way automotive glass today has a
> black painted border on the inside perimeter. This paint allows the
> hiding of trim pieces (pillar post, headliner, etc) while looking from
> outside in. I copied that. Using 3M fine line tape was able to get a
> decent border on the inside of the windscreen and shoot it a semi flat
> black. It's about 2 minutes of painting, and an hour or so of masking, but
> came out nicely.
> Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in position the
> lower fwd section of windscreen. I could actually make those out (looking
> inside out) after the layup on mine. After paint of course, gone.
> This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site before,
> so check archives if you are interested. Good luck with your sanding!
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen Die |
I used the AS pigment-
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/epoxyPigments.php?clickkey=334111
A little bit went a long way. I found that it did a very nice job making it
black and would use/do it again.
One needs to be careful however. once it touches something it is virtually
impossible to clean it up completely.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rich Hansen
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 7:11 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen Die
Chris,
Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't remember the
brand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins and was black in color.
Although I wouldn't say it created any huge complications, it did little to
actually turn the epoxy black as I'd hoped for. Turned it a light gray at
best. There was a volume limit caution with the die also, so you couldn't
just say, "well a little is good so a lot will be better". It also was a
liquid, not powder.
My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 used the
same windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen from inside was
never bothersome, especially after being painted. In the 10 however we sit
a bit higher. After completing the windscreen layup I checked the
appearance from inside. Didn't like it & too much was visible. Everyone
has a different opinion, but I like the way automotive glass today has a
black painted border on the inside perimeter. This paint allows the hiding
of trim pieces (pillar post, headliner, etc) while looking from outside in.
I copied that. Using 3M fine line tape was able to get a decent border on
the inside of the windscreen and shoot it a semi flat black. It's about 2
minutes of painting, and an hour or so of masking, but came out nicely.
Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in position the
lower fwd section of windscreen. I could actually make those out (looking
inside out) after the layup on mine. After paint of course, gone.
This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site before, so
check archives if you are interested. Good luck with your sanding!
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen Die |
Thanks Pascal. This is the pigment I have on order along with the
Alumiprep and Alodine. I may try a dry run on some scrap aluminum just to
get the hang of it prior to going full scale.
Now I need to spend the next week trying to get this Cee-Baley windshield
to fit. It looks like I'm going to have to do some serious sanding to get
this thing to fit. When it sits flush on my upper fuselage, I only have
about 1/4"-1/2" overlap on the top portion of the cabin top flange....This
means I'm going to have to remove about 1/2" from the corners of the plexi
so it can slide back. Maybe they have fixed these fit issues since I
ordered mine 3 years ago, but they are no where near drop in place.
Shannon
On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote:
>
> I used the AS pigment-
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/epoxyPigments.php?clickkey=334111
> A little bit went a long way. I found that it did a very nice job making
> it black and would use/do it again.
> One needs to be careful however. once it touches something it is virtually
> impossible to clean it up completely.
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Rich Hansen
> Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 7:11 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen Die
>
>
>
>
> Chris,
> Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't remember the
> brand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins and was black in
> color. Although I wouldn't say it created any huge complications, it did
> little to actually turn the epoxy black as I'd hoped for. Turned it a
> light gray at best. There was a volume limit caution with the die also, so
> you couldn't just say, "well a little is good so a lot will be better". It
> also was a liquid, not powder.
> My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 used the
> same windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen from inside was
> never bothersome, especially after being painted. In the 10 however we
> sit a bit higher. After completing the windscreen layup I checked the
> appearance from inside. Didn't like it & too much was visible. Everyone
> has a different opinion, but I like the way automotive glass today has a
> black painted border on the inside perimeter. This paint allows the
> hiding of trim pieces (pillar post, headliner, etc) while looking from
> outside in. I copied that. Using 3M fine line tape was able to get a
> decent border on the inside of the windscreen and shoot it a semi flat
> black. It's about 2 minutes of painting, and an hour or so of masking, but
> came out nicely.
> Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in position the
> lower fwd section of windscreen. I could actually make those out (looking
> inside out) after the layup on mine. After paint of course, gone.
> This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site before, so
> check archives if you are interested. Good luck with your sanding!
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen Die |
I was part of the windscreen design and another local builder the side
windows. When the design was shaped on my (pink) cabin I told Cee
baileys that there was a chance Vans would have a newer cabin top as
they had changed something from the original Green to Pink. As a result
1/4 added all around the windscreen, and I heard less for the windows.
This was done to allow for the builder to final fit the plexi on the
plane. If it was truly =9Cdrop in=9D without (minor)
adjustments there was the chance of there being a gap or not a perfect
fit. By adding the extra around it allows the builder to adjust for
their specific fit. As precise as I would like to believe the aluminum
is, the fiberglass work from Vans is not always the same from one to the
other canopy. I assure you that you are doing far less with that
windscreen than you would with the Vans. I originally had the Vans and
it was hours of cutting and trimming only to find that I had a bulge on
my right bottom. The one Cee Baileys made for me was pretty darn close
to be perfect once I made the final fit. If I gave the impression that
the windscreen was a drop in place, I apologize . I spent about 2-3
hours on mine.
as for the side windows they should be really close to drop in (again
with minor extra room for final shaping)
One other item- the plexi in the Cee Baileys is superior to the Vans. it
was clearer and shaped more precisely in my case.
Thank you for the feedback!
Pascal
From: Shannon Hicks
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windscreen Die
Thanks Pascal. This is the pigment I have on order along with the
Alumiprep and Alodine. I may try a dry run on some scrap aluminum just
to get the hang of it prior to going full scale.
Now I need to spend the next week trying to get this Cee-Baley
windshield to fit. It looks like I'm going to have to do some serious
sanding to get this thing to fit. When it sits flush on my upper
fuselage, I only have about 1/4"-1/2" overlap on the top portion of the
cabin top flange....This means I'm going to have to remove about 1/2"
from the corners of the plexi so it can slide back. Maybe they have
fixed these fit issues since I ordered mine 3 years ago, but they are no
where near drop in place.
Shannon
On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote:
I used the AS pigment-
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/epoxyPigments.php?clickkey=
334111
A little bit went a long way. I found that it did a very nice job
making it black and would use/do it again.
One needs to be careful however. once it touches something it is
virtually impossible to clean it up completely.
-----Original Message----- From: Rich Hansen
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 7:11 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen Die
Chris,
Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't remember
the brand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins and was black
in color. Although I wouldn't say it created any huge complications, it
did little to actually turn the epoxy black as I'd hoped for. Turned it
a light gray at best. There was a volume limit caution with the die
also, so you couldn't just say, "well a little is good so a lot will be
better". It also was a liquid, not powder.
My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 used
the same windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen from
inside was never bothersome, especially after being painted. In the 10
however we sit a bit higher. After completing the windscreen layup I
checked the appearance from inside. Didn't like it & too much was
visible. Everyone has a different opinion, but I like the way
automotive glass today has a black painted border on the inside
perimeter. This paint allows the hiding of trim pieces (pillar post,
headliner, etc) while looking from outside in. I copied that. Using 3M
fine line tape was able to get a decent border on the inside of the
windscreen and shoot it a semi flat black. It's about 2 minutes of
painting, and an hour or so of masking, but came out nicely.
Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in position the
lower fwd section of windscreen. I could actually make those out
(looking inside out) after the layup on mine. After paint of course,
gone.
This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site before,
so check archives if you are interested. Good luck with your sanding!
==========
-List" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
==========
FORUMS -
eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
==========
b Site -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen Die |
I clecoed a piece of scrap angle aluminum where the front of the
windshield sits on the upper fuse and laid the windshield against it to
keep the windshield from sliding fwd. I marked where the cabin top edge
met the windshield with a sharpie and trimmed to that line. The belt
sander made quick work of final fitting. My windshield fit flush all
the way around the upper fuse with the exception of an area on both
sides just fwd of the fiberglass top. A clip riveted to the upper fuse
solved that problem.
Linn
On 7/8/2015 11:05 AM, Shannon Hicks wrote:
> Thanks Pascal. This is the pigment I have on order along with the
> Alumiprep and Alodine. I may try a dry run on some scrap aluminum
> just to get the hang of it prior to going full scale.
>
> Now I need to spend the next week trying to get this Cee-Baley
> windshield to fit. It looks like I'm going to have to do some serious
> sanding to get this thing to fit. When it sits flush on my upper
> fuselage, I only have about 1/4"-1/2" overlap on the top portion of
> the cabin top flange....This means I'm going to have to remove about
> 1/2" from the corners of the plexi so it can slide back. Maybe they
> have fixed these fit issues since I ordered mine 3 years ago, but they
> are no where near drop in place.
>
> Shannon
>
> On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com
> <mailto:rv10flyer@live.com>> wrote:
>
> <mailto:rv10flyer@live.com>>
>
> I used the AS pigment-
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/epoxyPigments.php?clickkey=334111
> A little bit went a long way. I found that it did a very nice job
> making it black and would use/do it again.
> One needs to be careful however. once it touches something it is
> virtually impossible to clean it up completely.
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Rich Hansen
> Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 7:11 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen Die
>
>
> <karolamy@roadrunner.com <mailto:karolamy@roadrunner.com>>
>
>
> Chris,
> Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't
> remember the brand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins
> and was black in color. Although I wouldn't say it created any
> huge complications, it did little to actually turn the epoxy black
> as I'd hoped for. Turned it a light gray at best. There was a
> volume limit caution with the die also, so you couldn't just say,
> "well a little is good so a lot will be better". It also was a
> liquid, not powder.
> My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6
> used the same windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen
> from inside was never bothersome, especially after being painted.
> In the 10 however we sit a bit higher. After completing the
> windscreen layup I checked the appearance from inside. Didn't
> like it & too much was visible. Everyone has a different opinion,
> but I like the way automotive glass today has a black painted
> border on the inside perimeter. This paint allows the hiding of
> trim pieces (pillar post, headliner, etc) while looking from
> outside in. I copied that. Using 3M fine line tape was able to
> get a decent border on the inside of the windscreen and shoot it a
> semi flat black. It's about 2 minutes of painting, and an hour or
> so of masking, but came out nicely.
> Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in
> position the lower fwd section of windscreen. I could actually
> make those out (looking inside out) after the layup on mine.
> After paint of course, gone.
> This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site
> before, so check archives if you are interested. Good luck with
> your sanding!
>
>
> ==========
> -List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen Die |
Compound that with there is at least two variations of pink cabin covers. T
he joggle between the front and back have different dimensions. Who knows w
hat other variances there may be?
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 8, 2015, at 12:21 PM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote:
I was part of the windscreen design and another local builder the side windo
ws. When the design was shaped on my (pink) cabin I told Cee baileys that th
ere was a chance Vans would have a newer cabin top as they had changed somet
hing from the original Green to Pink. As a result 1/4 added all around the w
indscreen, and I heard less for the windows. This was done to allow for the b
uilder to final fit the plexi on the plane. If it was truly =9Cdrop in
=9D without (minor) adjustments there was the chance of there being a g
ap or not a perfect fit. By adding the extra around it allows the builder to
adjust for their specific fit. As precise as I would like to believe the al
uminum is, the fiberglass work from Vans is not always the same from one to t
he other canopy. I assure you that you are doing far less with that windscre
en than you would with the Vans. I originally had the Vans and it was hours o
f cutting and trimming only to find that I had a bulge on my right bottom. T
he one Cee Baileys made for me was pretty darn close to be perfect once I ma
de the final fit. If I gave the impression that the windscreen was a drop in
place, I apologize . I spent about 2-3 hours on mine.
as for the side windows they should be really close to drop in (again with m
inor extra room for final shaping)
One other item- the plexi in the Cee Baileys is superior to the Vans. it was
clearer and shaped more precisely in my case.
Thank you for the feedback!
Pascal
From: Shannon Hicks
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windscreen Die
Thanks Pascal. This is the pigment I have on order along with the Alumiprep
and Alodine. I may try a dry run on some scrap aluminum just to get the ha
ng of it prior to going full scale.
Now I need to spend the next week trying to get this Cee-Baley windshield to
fit. It looks like I'm going to have to do some serious sanding to get thi
s thing to fit. When it sits flush on my upper fuselage, I only have about 1
/4"-1/2" overlap on the top portion of the cabin top flange....This means I'
m going to have to remove about 1/2" from the corners of the plexi so it can
slide back. Maybe they have fixed these fit issues since I ordered mine 3
years ago, but they are no where near drop in place.
Shannon
> On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote:
>
> I used the AS pigment- http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/epoxy
Pigments.php?clickkey=334111
> A little bit went a long way. I found that it did a very nice job making i
t black and would use/do it again.
> One needs to be careful however. once it touches something it is virtua
lly impossible to clean it up completely.
>
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Rich Hansen
> Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 7:11 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen Die
>
>
>
>
>
> Chris,
> Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't remember the b
rand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins and was black in color. A
lthough I wouldn't say it created any huge complications, it did little to a
ctually turn the epoxy black as I'd hoped for. Turned it a light gray at be
st. There was a volume limit caution with the die also, so you couldn't jus
t say, "well a little is good so a lot will be better". It also was a liqui
d, not powder.
> My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 used the sa
me windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen from inside was neve
r bothersome, especially after being painted. In the 10 however we sit a
bit higher. After completing the windscreen layup I checked the appearance
from inside. Didn't like it & too much was visible. Everyone has a differ
ent opinion, but I like the way automotive glass today has a black painted b
order on the inside perimeter. This paint allows the hiding of trim pieces
(pillar post, headliner, etc) while looking from outside in. I copied that.
Using 3M fine line tape was able to get a decent border on the inside of t
he windscreen and shoot it a semi flat black. It's about 2 minutes of paint
ing, and an hour or so of masking, but came out nicely.
> Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in position the low
er fwd section of windscreen. I could actually make those out (looking insi
de out) after the layup on mine. After paint of course, gone.
> This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site before, so c
heck archives if you are interested. Good luck with your sanding!
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?RV10-List
> ==========
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?RV10-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen Die |
It looks like I had a misunderstanding of what the Cee-Bailey plexi would
give me. So when they weren't "plug and play", I was under the false
assumption that I had some bad stuff. Now that I know the intent was to
leave 1/4" for final fit up it makes a lot more sense.
These last few steps have been a real booger compared to the first 95%. of
the build. I have learned that I like aluminum much more than either fiber
or plexi glass.
Shannon
On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 11:56 AM, Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> I clecoed a piece of scrap angle aluminum where the front of the
> windshield sits on the upper fuse and laid the windshield against it to
> keep the windshield from sliding fwd. I marked where the cabin top edge
> met the windshield with a sharpie and trimmed to that line. The belt
> sander made quick work of final fitting. My windshield fit flush all the
> way around the upper fuse with the exception of an area on both sides just
> fwd of the fiberglass top. A clip riveted to the upper fuse solved that
> problem.
> Linn
>
>
> On 7/8/2015 11:05 AM, Shannon Hicks wrote:
>
> Thanks Pascal. This is the pigment I have on order along with the
> Alumiprep and Alodine. I may try a dry run on some scrap aluminum just to
> get the hang of it prior to going full scale.
>
> Now I need to spend the next week trying to get this Cee-Baley
> windshield to fit. It looks like I'm going to have to do some serious
> sanding to get this thing to fit. When it sits flush on my upper fuselage,
> I only have about 1/4"-1/2" overlap on the top portion of the cabin top
> flange....This means I'm going to have to remove about 1/2" from the
> corners of the plexi so it can slide back. Maybe they have fixed these
> fit issues since I ordered mine 3 years ago, but they are no where near
> drop in place.
>
> Shannon
>
> On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 9:48 AM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> I used the AS pigment-
>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/epoxyPigments.php?clickkey=334111
>> A little bit went a long way. I found that it did a very nice job making
>> it black and would use/do it again.
>> One needs to be careful however. once it touches something it is
>> virtually impossible to clean it up completely.
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Rich Hansen
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 7:11 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Windscreen Die
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Chris,
>> Used the die in my windscreen layup not too long ago. Don't remember the
>> brand, but it was made specifically for epoxy resins and was black in
>> color. Although I wouldn't say it created any huge complications, it did
>> little to actually turn the epoxy black as I'd hoped for. Turned it a
>> light gray at best. There was a volume limit caution with the die also, so
>> you couldn't just say, "well a little is good so a lot will be better". It
>> also was a liquid, not powder.
>> My reasoning for using the die was purely aesthetics. My RV-6 used the
>> same windscreen layup, and looking through the windscreen from inside was
>> never bothersome, especially after being painted. In the 10 however we
>> sit a bit higher. After completing the windscreen layup I checked the
>> appearance from inside. Didn't like it & too much was visible. Everyone
>> has a different opinion, but I like the way automotive glass today has a
>> black painted border on the inside perimeter. This paint allows the
>> hiding of trim pieces (pillar post, headliner, etc) while looking from
>> outside in. I copied that. Using 3M fine line tape was able to get a
>> decent border on the inside of the windscreen and shoot it a semi flat
>> black. It's about 2 minutes of painting, and an hour or so of masking, but
>> came out nicely.
>> Plans call for small clips to be fabricated to support in position the
>> lower fwd section of windscreen. I could actually make those out (looking
>> inside out) after the layup on mine. After paint of course, gone.
>> This painting inside perimeter has been mentioned on this site before,
>> so check archives if you are interested. Good luck with your sanding!
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Date: 07/08/15
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Windscreen Die |
Can anyone change the title to "dye"? I thought someone was trying to put threads
in their windscreen!
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=444580#444580
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Not renewing website |
It should be available now. I haven't yet updated or added any links to it
so unless you have the path you wouldn't find it yet, but it's at:
http://www.myrv10.com/N519PJ
It's hosted at my house, so when y'all hammer my site, it means my surfing
speed goes down, but it doesn't add a lot of cost for me that way.
Tim
do not archive
On 7/7/2015 8:56 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
> Just to let everybody know, Tim Olson has offered to copy the site and
> include it on his site. I created an archived copy of the site and
> Tim's going to do his magic. We had an issue yesterday getting access
> to the portal, but it appears to be resolved. I/ Tim will let folks
> know when its available .
>
> Thanks
>
> Deems
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Johnson Creek, ID |
Tim, I'm heading for Johnson Creek, Idaho in 10 days or so. I remember you flying
in there a coupla of years ago, did you take any stills or video of your approach/landing?
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Not renewing website |
Tim
MANY MANY THANKS!!!!!
Deems
On Wed, Jul 8, 2015 at 6:40 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> It should be available now. I haven't yet updated or added any links to it
> so unless you have the path you wouldn't find it yet, but it's at:
>
> http://www.myrv10.com/N519PJ
>
> It's hosted at my house, so when y'all hammer my site, it means my surfing
> speed goes down, but it doesn't add a lot of cost for me that way.
> Tim
>
> do not archive
>
> On 7/7/2015 8:56 PM, Deems Davis wrote:
>
>> Just to let everybody know, Tim Olson has offered to copy the site and
>> include it on his site. I created an archived copy of the site and Tim's
>> going to do his magic. We had an issue yesterday getting access to the
>> portal, but it appears to be resolved. I/ Tim will let folks know when its
>> available .
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Deems
>>
>>
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Johnson Creek, ID |
Try these Albert
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=johnson+creek+airport
-----Original Message-----
From: Albert
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2015 8:30 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Johnson Creek, ID
Tim, I'm heading for Johnson Creek, Idaho in 10 days or so. I remember you
flying in there a coupla of years ago, did you take any stills or video of
your approach/landing?
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
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