Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:47 AM - Windscreen Fairing (tmoushon@gmail.com)
2. 07:14 AM - Re: Windscreen Fairing (Linn Walters)
3. 05:58 PM - Re: Brake broke (David Saylor)
4. 08:31 PM - Re: Brake broke (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Windscreen Fairing |
Missing OSH this year... Dang!
Vans windscreen layup procedures for the -10 start with the narrow strip of glass
and works up to the 3 1/2 wide piece. I saw the layup video Vans posted on
the -14, (excellent) and they start with the widest one first and work down to
the narrowest. Air pocket management comes to mind as one benefit...any other
thoughts/comments?
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Windscreen Fairing |
Not sure why the change .......
I think I would prefer the -10 plans method as it allows you to
sand/fill/feather the edges of each layup as you start small and that
leaves the last layer to gon smooth over a contoured fillet. I used flox
to feather the edges of each layer which avoided the air pockets. I did
my fillet layups per the plans and had no problems at all. Seems like a
daunting task at first but I didn't have any problems at all. I armed
myself with various sizes of PVC with heavy grit sandpaper tacked to
them. Get the 3M spray contact cement (Home Depot) for photos .....
worn out sandpaper just peels off easily. Also at HD is a coarse black
paint remover wheel that does real well in my angle grinder.
Linn
On 7/22/2015 8:43 AM, tmoushon@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Missing OSH this year... Dang!
>
> Vans windscreen layup procedures for the -10 start with the narrow strip of glass
and works up to the 3 1/2 wide piece. I saw the layup video Vans posted
on the -14, (excellent) and they start with the widest one first and work down
to the narrowest. Air pocket management comes to mind as one benefit...any other
thoughts/comments?
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 3
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Thanks folks.
Jesse, I wish I'd read your post before I pulled the caliper.
I had an enlightening conversation with Robbie Grove who explained the
required technique to me. Basically I learned I need to taxi kind of like
s-turning a tail dragger. Drift downwind (across the taxiway) without any
brakes, then just enough brake to get pointed to the other side, and repeat
as necessary. The brakes cool between steers.
If anyone can explain it better, please do.
Today I replaced the pads and the piston oring. Bled the brakes and all
seems well. Should be good for enough for a few landings to get home, where
I'll replace the disc and consider my upgrade options. Even Cleveland says
the brakes are undersized.
EAA helped a LOT with everything I needed to make the repair. The aircraft
repair barn is well stocked with tools and supplies.
Again thanks for the input.
--Dave
On Tuesday, July 21, 2015, Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com> wrote:
> As Coop said, it's more about technique than the brake kit, but the Matco
> has double pads and should last longer. It most likely just boiled the
> fluid and will harden back up when it cools down. I wouldn't do anything
> for right now until you verify that. If it firms up and you don't get a
> puddle by the brake, then you should be good to go. When you get home you
> could replace pads and maybe caliper.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','jesse@saintaviation.com');>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jul 21, 2015, at 3:19 PM, David Saylor <saylor.dave@gmail.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','saylor.dave@gmail.com');>> wrote:
>
> We landed at OSH around noon. We landed 27 in a strong crosswind then
> taxied pretty far to the east, riding the brake as necessary. I guess my
> technique needs work because I think the right one overheated. By the time
> we got to HBP it was mushy, then a few seconds later it went to the floor.
> I stopped on the taxiway with the other brake. EAA tied us down on the
> cement at the end of P for repairs.
>
> I pulled the wheel pant and peeked under the cowl. The only sign of any
> loose fluid is out the top of the reservoir--quite a bit really. No leaks
> in the cabin. And the disc looks really bad, very scored and worn. The pads
> still have meat but they look sort of like the edges have chipped off.
> Maybe from heat.
>
> I replaced the right caliper a few years ago after it stranded us due to
> leaking. A new oring didn't help. Same brake again.
>
> Now I'm considering something other than Cleveland. Any suggestions?
>
> --Dave
>
> *
>
> D============================================
> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List <http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
> D============================================
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Message 4
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I am not entirely convinced that there is anything lacking with the
Clevelands. The RV-10 empty weight is virtually identical to my Mooney
M20E. Approx 1645 lbs empty, 2575 gross. Uses 6:00X6 six ply tires. Vso 57
mph, Approach speed 80. Only real difference is the 10's lack of nose wheel
steering.
My Mooney uses similar 6" Cleveland wheels and brakes designed in the early
60s, and later versions do have improvements.
I do think that using the high temp brake fluid and viton seals are the
main items needed to deal with the heat build up from long cross wind
taxis. Obviously with P factor the right brake will get more use than the
left.
On Wed, Jul 22, 2015 at 5:55 PM, David Saylor <saylor.dave@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks folks.
>
>
> Should be good for enough for a few landings to get home, where I'll
> replace the disc and consider my upgrade options. Even Cleveland says the
> brakes are undersized.
>
>
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