RV10-List Digest Archive

Tue 09/22/15


Total Messages Posted: 8



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:55 AM - Re: Filling and finishing empennage fiberglass tips (bill.peyton)
     2. 06:19 AM - Re: Re: Filling and finishing empennage fiberglass tips (Kelly McMullen)
     3. 06:48 AM - Re: Re: Filling and finishing empennage fiberglass tips (Carl Froehlich)
     4. 10:08 AM - Headset & oxygen mounts (Steven DeFord)
     5. 11:37 AM - Re: Headset & oxygen mounts (Bob Turner)
     6. 12:04 PM - Re: Re: Headset & oxygen mounts (Steven DeFord)
     7. 01:19 PM - Re: Re: Headset & oxygen mounts (Carl Froehlich)
     8. 07:09 PM - Re: Headset & oxygen mounts (Bill Watson)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:55:23 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Filling and finishing empennage fiberglass tips
    From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b@sbcglobal.net>
    I glassed mine in. I had some time to kill waiting for my fuse and wings to show up, so I spent it glassing the tips on. They look great, I get compliments on how smooth they look etc. I would say that I spent at least 40 hours in all for the additional body work. I was experienced in body work, so plan accordingly for your own time. Having said that, I have also seen some done the way the plans call out, and they look just fine.The downside is that replacing the tip would require repainting the entire surface. -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447337#447337


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:19:29 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Filling and finishing empennage fiberglass tips
    From: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
    That is why I ignored the plans and attached all tail fairings with #4 nutplates and #4 countersunk screws. Allows removal of any of the pieces, no muss, no fuss. To save effort, I spent a few extra bucks and used clickbond nutplates. Over time, if you look at most planes on the ramp, those pieces have gotten some damage, whether made of Royalite or fiberglass. Never know if I will want to bury an antenna at the top of the rudder, or need to rebalance the elevators, etc. On 9/22/2015 5:52 AM, bill.peyton wrote: > > > Having said that, I have also seen some done the way the plans call out, and they look just fine.The downside is that replacing the tip would require repainting the entire surface. > > -------- > Bill > WA0SYV > Aviation Partners, LLC > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447337#447337 > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:48:09 AM PST US
    From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Filling and finishing empennage fiberglass tips
    As with many things RV, this is squarely in the "builder's choice" column. On my planes I first fill in the tip to skin seam with mico and then sand flush. On top of this go a couple of bids of glass with peal ply as mico alone between two different materials will tend to crack. On top of the glass goes a skim layer of mico. Sand-prime-paint. On all control surfaces, flaps, HS, VS and wing tips I took the very unnecessary step to fill in the exposed ends. The attached photos show the foam filler after being glued into the ends. Note the foam does not fill in the full area. On top of this goes a few bids of glass such that the glass edges go between the foam and the skin. The glass then supports itself - the foam is just to form the glass. The glass is 1/32" to 1/16" below the top of the skins to allow for micro on top to make flush. I left a 1/4" weep hole in the trailing edge of all control surfaces to provide a path for water to escape. On the RV-8A and RV-10 I never had call to remove any fiberglass tip. The wing tips of course are removable. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bill.peyton Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 8:52 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Filling and finishing empennage fiberglass tips I glassed mine in. I had some time to kill waiting for my fuse and wings to show up, so I spent it glassing the tips on. They look great, I get compliments on how smooth they look etc. I would say that I spent at least 40 hours in all for the additional body work. I was experienced in body work, so plan accordingly for your own time. Having said that, I have also seen some done the way the plans call out, and they look just fine.The downside is that replacing the tip would require repainting the entire surface. -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447337#447337


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:08:12 AM PST US
    From: Steven DeFord <riveteddragon@gmail.com>
    Subject: Headset & oxygen mounts
    I'm working on the fuse right now, and before I start closing out panels, I'm trying to figure out my wire/tubing runs. It looks like inside the side panels is the best answer for the most part, but I was wondering where people were putting their headset jacks and oxygen ports, especially for the back seat. Toward the front of the armrest type panel on top? Recess one into the side of that panel? Into the seat back support bar? Mounted on the tunnel somehow? Anything that works particularly well, or that you wouldn't do if you had it to do again? Steven DeFord RivetedDragon@gmail.com (925) 596-0426 (cell)


    Message 5


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    Time: 11:37:48 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Headset & oxygen mounts
    From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
    I do not have a good answer. My front seat jacks are on the support rail at the bottom of the panel, low and outboard. That works okay. For the back seats they're where you suggested, on the forward part of the arm rest. This seems okay in flight but on exiting, passengers have no good place to park their headsets other than on the seat. This can cause a bit of an issue when it's time to re-board. Sometimes I just let them deal with it; other times I unplug the headsets, park them on the center tunnel, board the passengers, then hand them the headsets and show them where to plug them in. It works but I think there's probably a better way. For O2, I use a portable tank on top of the tunnel, regulator between the front seats, tied to the seat belt anchors so it won't go anywhere in a sudden stop, or turbulence. Permanent systems tend to move the cg aft, which for most loadings is not what you want. And extra weight when you don't need it. Of course they look nicer. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447343#447343


    Message 6


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    Time: 12:04:21 PM PST US
    From: Steven DeFord <riveteddragon@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Headset & oxygen mounts
    Re: headsets, thanks. Seats far enough back that the headset plugs sticking up aren't in anyone's way? Re: oxygen: right-- I was going to plumb in connections, but put the cylinder somewhere (was thinking baggage bay, but I like the between seats idea) it could be easily removed for filling and to save weight-- the tubing and connectors seem light enough to install permanently, but being able to pull out ~20# of cylinder (and not having to deal with having to fill from a transfill system on the ramp) seemed like a good idea. Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 22, 2015, at 11:31, Bob Turner <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu> wrote: > > > I do not have a good answer. My front seat jacks are on the support rail at the bottom of the panel, low and outboard. That works okay. For the back seats they're where you suggested, on the forward part of the arm rest. This seems okay in flight but on exiting, passengers have no good place to park their headsets other than on the seat. This can cause a bit of an issue when it's time to re-board. Sometimes I just let them deal with it; other times I unplug the headsets, park them on the center tunnel, board the passengers, then hand them the headsets and show them where to plug them in. It works but I think there's probably a better way. > For O2, I use a portable tank on top of the tunnel, regulator between the front seats, tied to the seat belt anchors so it won't go anywhere in a sudden stop, or turbulence. Permanent systems tend to move the cg aft, which for most loadings is not what you want. And extra weight when you don't need it. Of course they look nicer. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447343#447343 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 01:19:11 PM PST US
    From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Headset & oxygen mounts
    I wanted headset jack locations that did not force a headset cable to go over a lap, or get kicked. Oxygen is a AL-415 (14 cu-ft) cylinder from Mountain High mounted on the tunnel cover. It is held in place by the case and straps it came with, the straps attached under the appropriate tunnel cover screws. Very easy in and out. I did a two week trip out west with a lot time at 13K-14K, two people and used less than half of the bottle. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DeFord Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 3:00 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Headset & oxygen mounts Re: headsets, thanks. Seats far enough back that the headset plugs sticking up aren't in anyone's way? Re: oxygen: right-- I was going to plumb in connections, but put the cylinder somewhere (was thinking baggage bay, but I like the between seats idea) it could be easily removed for filling and to save weight-- the tubing and connectors seem light enough to install permanently, but being able to pull out ~20# of cylinder (and not having to deal with having to fill from a transfill system on the ramp) seemed like a good idea. Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 22, 2015, at 11:31, Bob Turner <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu> wrote: > > > I do not have a good answer. My front seat jacks are on the support rail at the bottom of the panel, low and outboard. That works okay. For the back seats they're where you suggested, on the forward part of the arm rest. This seems okay in flight but on exiting, passengers have no good place to park their headsets other than on the seat. This can cause a bit of an issue when it's time to re-board. Sometimes I just let them deal with it; other times I unplug the headsets, park them on the center tunnel, board the passengers, then hand them the headsets and show them where to plug them in. It works but I think there's probably a better way. > For O2, I use a portable tank on top of the tunnel, regulator between the front seats, tied to the seat belt anchors so it won't go anywhere in a sudden stop, or turbulence. Permanent systems tend to move the cg aft, which for most loadings is not what you want. And extra weight when you don't need it. Of course they look nicer. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447343#447343 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 07:09:02 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Headset & oxygen mounts
    From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
    I had fun working out solutions for both things on my project. I decided on powered Bose jack for the front seats; no batteries, always on. I located them on the side wall below the seat pan. Included a regular jack for the front as well and combined them into a single bracket that has worked very well. I decided to the double jacks in the front early enough to have my wiring harness delivered with it all wired up. Front Seat Jacks <http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=5473&log'458&row=3> For the rear seat I put the regular jacks on a small bracket on the vertical post facing the arm rest. That seems to be a good location to avoid passenger damage. I didn't put the powered jacks in the back because I already had some Bose phones with regular jacks... and it's the back seat. I built a center console to house the O2 tank. It's configured so that the lines can be connected by lifting a hatch. No built in fixtures. It works great - and really provides an ideal iPad mount. A lot of effort was spent here mainly because I wanted to learn more about composite work. There are simpler solutions.... O2 Console with iPad Mount <http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=8533> Good luck and have fun! On 9/22/2015 1:04 PM, Steven DeFord wrote: > > I'm working on the fuse right now, and before I start closing out panels, I'm trying to figure out my wire/tubing runs. It looks like inside the side panels is the best answer for the most part, but I was wondering where people were putting their headset jacks and oxygen ports, especially for the back seat. Toward the front of the armrest type panel on top? Recess one into the side of that panel? Into the seat back support bar? Mounted on the tunnel somehow? Anything that works particularly well, or that you wouldn't do if you had it to do again? > > > Steven DeFord >




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