Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:19 AM - Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 (Werner Schneider)
2. 04:21 AM - Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 (Home)
3. 05:13 AM - Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 (Werner Schneider)
4. 06:03 AM - Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 (Jim Combs)
5. 06:49 AM - Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 (Carl Froehlich)
6. 06:51 AM - Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 (Home)
7. 07:25 AM - Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 (Kelly McMullen)
8. 07:26 AM - Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 (Jesse Saint)
9. 11:27 AM - Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 (Werner Schneider)
10. 04:10 PM - Nose Gear Fairing (mhealydds)
11. 04:49 PM - Re: Nose Gear Fairing (Marcus Cooper)
12. 05:21 PM - Re: Nose Gear Fairing (Bob Turner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 |
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 |
Werner:
=46rom the photo, it looks like the lower flange may be bent down a bit leav
ing the two flanges more open at the outer edge. See if they are parallel or
does one angle away.
Byron
N253RV Flying
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 11, 2015, at 6:15 AM, Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net> wrote:
>
> I'm currently rigging my control system (back at work after a 3 year stop)
.
>
> just aligned everything last night and assembled loosely according figure 3
but I have inside of WD-1011 a gap of at least 1/16"
>
>
> I doubt I can get the AN3 bolts as tight to close that gap without overtor
quing them.
> Did other people face the same issue or was their WD-1011 a close fit?
>
> Many thanks for your help!
>
> Cheers Werner
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 |
Thanks Byron, but that is only the angle under which the picture was
done, bot flanges in the area where the bolts are passing through are
pretty parallel. It's about 5/8" wide.
Cheers Werner
On 11.10.2015 13:15, Home wrote:
> Werner:
> From the photo, it looks like the lower flange may be bent down a bit leaving
the two flanges more open at the outer edge. See if they are parallel or does
one angle away.
>
> Byron
> N253RV Flying
> Sent from my iPad
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 |
On Oct 11, 2015 6:37 AM, "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net> wrote:
> I'm currently rigging my control system (back at work after a 3 year stop).
>
> just aligned everything last night and assembled loosely according figure
> 3 but I have inside of WD-1011 a gap of at least 1/16"
>
>
> I doubt I can get the AN3 bolts as tight to close that gap without
> overtorquing them.
> Did other people face the same issue or was their WD-1011 a close fit?
>
> Many thanks for your help!
>
> Cheers Werner
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 |
As with all such end bearings, you must capture the bearing so that there is
no relative motion between the bearing itself and the mount or bolt (i.e.
all motion is the bearing inside the race). Add washers as needed to fill
the gap and torque holding bolt. Recommend having about equal washers on
each side of the end bearing. It is helpful to have both AN960-10 and
AN960-10L washers to make the best fit. Do not deform the weldment as you
want the weldment faces to be parallel to prevent binding.
I use a piece of masking tape folded over the edge of the washer to help
insert into tight spaces. Many techniques and some special tools out there
for this.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Werner Schneider
Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2015 6:15 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3
I'm currently rigging my control system (back at work after a 3 year stop).
just aligned everything last night and assembled loosely according figure 3
but I have inside of WD-1011 a gap of at least 1/16"
I doubt I can get the AN3 bolts as tight to close that gap without
overtorquing them.
Did other people face the same issue or was their WD-1011 a close fit?
Many thanks for your help!
Cheers Werner
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 |
Is the same spacing evident on both sides of WD-1011L and WD-1011R? If all the
same, spacing, I would think others have seen the same issue. It could be possible
that one flange was a bit out of place during welding. I have heard of some
others seeing that on a few occasions.
I don't recall any significant spacing issues (some a bit tight or loose but not
a lot). They will move some during tightening. I would use a " sacrificial"
nut and bolt to tighten and see how much movement takes place. That way if over
torqued, just discard the bolt/nut. If needed, you could add additional washer
inside which may facilitate a longer AN3 bolt.
I actually opted to go with the drilled bolts, castle nuts and cotter pins on all
of the control surfaces.
Byron
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 11, 2015, at 8:08 AM, Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks Byron, but that is only the angle under which the picture was done, bot
flanges in the area where the bolts are passing through are pretty parallel.
It's about 5/8" wide.
>
> Cheers Werner
>
>> On 11.10.2015 13:15, Home wrote:
>> Werner:
>> From the photo, it looks like the lower flange may be bent down a bit leaving
the two flanges more open at the outer edge. See if they are parallel or does
one angle away.
>>
>> Byron
>> N253RV Flying
>> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 |
I agree with Carl to use either AN960-10 or -10L washers to take up the
slack. I will have to take a look at mine to see if I had any issue there.
I have no notes in my construction plans of any issue there.
IF you want to improve on the self-locking AN365 nuts, suggest you go to
the current standard for control systems,
which is the MS17825 or MS17826 self locking castle nuts, so you have a
belt and suspenders retention.
However, I know of no problems with the standard AN365 in Vans control
systems.
Kelly
On Sun, Oct 11, 2015 at 6:47 AM, Home <bdgillespie215@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I actually opted to go with the drilled bolts, castle nuts and cotter pins
> on all of the control surfaces.
>
> Byron
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 |
I would be surprised if the gap didn't close when you torque the bolt. If it doesn't,
just add an AN960-10 washer on the inside and either go with a longer bolt
if necessary, or switch to an AN960-10L on the outside.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 11, 2015, at 5:15 AM, Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net> wrote:
>
> I'm currently rigging my control system (back at work after a 3 year stop).
>
> just aligned everything last night and assembled loosely according figure 3 but
I have inside of WD-1011 a gap of at least 1/16"
> <cghijhgb.png>
>
> I doubt I can get the AN3 bolts as tight to close that gap without overtorquing
them.
> Did other people face the same issue or was their WD-1011 a close fit?
>
> Many thanks for your help!
>
> Cheers Werner
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Question control system WD-1011 Page 39-8 Fig 3 |
On 11.10.2015 15:47, Home wrote:
>
> Is the same spacing evident on both sides of WD-1011L and WD-1011R?
yes both the same
washers and a longer bolt would be an option. I've sent as well a
message to Van's support to get their statement. I was just a bit
surprised as otherwise the parts are fitting well. As this are the
primary control parts I rather would not like to experiment.
Thanks for all the ideas coming
Werner
Message 10
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| Subject: | Nose Gear Fairing |
Got far into nose fairing and while fitting gear leg fairing I noticed that the
fairing is off-center to the left of plane. I have attached pictures. Should
I re-do and or replace fairing or is it OK to leave in flight?
Matt
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447831#447831
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1425_332.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1424_811.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1423_518.jpg
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Gear Fairing |
Matt,
You may get different opinions on this, but if it were me Id just open the right
side of the wheel gap to match the left side and press on. A little extra
room between the tire and fairing is a good thing in case the tire pressure
gets a bit low. Besides, nobody is ever going to notice that.
Marcus
do not archive
On Oct 11, 2015, at 7:06 PM, mhealydds <mhealydds@gmail.com> wrote:
Got far into nose fairing and while fitting gear leg fairing I noticed that the
fairing is off-center to the left of plane. I have attached pictures. Should
I re-do and or replace fairing or is it OK to leave in flight?
Matt
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447831#447831
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1425_332.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1424_811.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1423_518.jpg
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Nose Gear Fairing |
Put the rear half on to see this better: is it offset, or canted left-right. If
it's not straight I'd fix it. Offset only, I think I'd learn to live with it.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=447834#447834
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