Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:08 PM - Re: Re: Soundproofing the QB fuselage (Bill Watson)
2. 02:37 PM - Re: Re: Soundproofing the QB fuselage (Pascal)
3. 02:48 PM - Re: Re: Better Gas Strut for Doors (Bill Watson)
4. 03:11 PM - Re: Re: Better Gas Strut for Doors (Carl Froehlich)
5. 03:42 PM - Re: Re: Better Gas Strut for Doors (Jesse Saint)
6. 04:29 PM - Re: Re: Better Gas Strut for Doors (Pascal)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Soundproofing the QB fuselage |
On 10/25/2015 9:51 AM, whodja wrote:
>
> Temp insulation was also another benefit that I would like.
>
>
The question you may want to get an answer to is, "Is temp insulation
something the '10 needs?". Asking flying builders without insulation
would be a good way to get an answer.
My experience is that the '10 and that big banger up front generate more
than enough heat to get things toasty fast and keep them there in all
situations I've flown in. I'm speaking specifically of the IO540
without any diversion for carb heat.
As has been discussed at length, there are potential heat problems with
the tunnel.
The distribution of heat through the vents is not ideal and could be
improved for back seat passengers I'm told. Any door leaks can create a
cool spot but there is now no reason to have any with the improved
latches and various seal solutions.
Three things discourage this builder from adding insulation; 1) more
work, 2) more weight, 3) the potential for holding moisture, especially
under the floor.
Bill "still beaming from an NC-FL trip in the best plane of all" Watson
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Soundproofing the QB fuselage |
Bill mentioned:
Three things discourage this builder from adding insulation; 1) more
work, 2) more weight, 3) the potential for holding moisture, especially
under the floor.
I used Lizardskin, its a sound control (that works) and they have a ceramic
insulator. its a spray on and would not work for a completed plane as it is
messy. Since its sprayed it wont get moisture under anything. I may have
been a little cheap applying it as I dont think I have it as think as the
seller wants, but I do know that when I tapped the aluminum in the plane it
had a much louder sound than after I sprayed the sound control. The ceramic
is meant to adjust the temps in the plane something like 20F, I cant say for
certain if it works but I do know that when its freezing outside and I touch
the sides I dont feel it as being so cold.
Even with the extra 18Lbs of sound (13lbs) and ceramic (5Lbs) the plane is
loud. I cant imagine what my plane would be like without the sound control.
Concerning the tunnel heat- dont have it! I sprayed the ceramic on the
(in)sides and have a stainless steel vent that pretty much blocks out most
heat from ever getting into the tunnel.
Heat wise- I used barely a pull at 17F OAT of the heat in the front and same
for the back, otherwise there is no heat entering the plane from any vents.
Would I do the sound and ceramic like I did again. I would, takes minimal
space spraying versus the mats, it does cut back the aluminum noise and does
add a level of temperature protection from outside. I might not be so cheap
next time and buy an extra bucket of each to get a little more sound control
and heat, but its fine the way it is now too!
In the end the best sound control is a pair of expensive headsets- the 1K
ones. I have worn less expensive ones and they just didnt block the noise
as well as the expensive ones, and they take up even less space than the 1/4
wide sound control I sprayed.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Watson
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2015 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Soundproofing the QB fuselage
On 10/25/2015 9:51 AM, whodja wrote:
>
> Temp insulation was also another benefit that I would like.
>
>
The question you may want to get an answer to is, "Is temp insulation
something the '10 needs?". Asking flying builders without insulation
would be a good way to get an answer.
My experience is that the '10 and that big banger up front generate more
than enough heat to get things toasty fast and keep them there in all
situations I've flown in. I'm speaking specifically of the IO540
without any diversion for carb heat.
As has been discussed at length, there are potential heat problems with
the tunnel.
The distribution of heat through the vents is not ideal and could be
improved for back seat passengers I'm told. Any door leaks can create a
cool spot but there is now no reason to have any with the improved
latches and various seal solutions.
Three things discourage this builder from adding insulation; 1) more
work, 2) more weight, 3) the potential for holding moisture, especially
under the floor.
Bill "still beaming from an NC-FL trip in the best plane of all" Watson
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Better Gas Strut for Doors |
I agree on the straps. Having just flown around the tropics a bit, I
found that the strap combined with fresh struts allow me to engine start
and taxi with 1 or both doors fully open. The straps allow them to be
pulled down while belted in. The also allow an arm to be hooked in the
strap so the door can be held close but with the prop blast keeping a 3
- 6 inch gap. All very useful here in NC let alone south FL.
Bill "flying with fresh struts and new latches" Watson
On 11/2/2015 5:07 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
> Strap is nice to let the door up, and pull the door down..(while
> firmly sitting in the seat).. not sure I would like going back to not
> having the strap.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> **
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Better Gas Strut for Doors |
Be careful. The door hinges are fragile. I have a rule that if the
engine is running or if the plane is unattended and not in a hangar, the
doors are shut and locked.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2015 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Better Gas Strut for Doors
I agree on the straps. Having just flown around the tropics a bit, I
found that the strap combined with fresh struts allow me to engine start
and taxi with 1 or both doors fully open. The straps allow them to be
pulled down while belted in. The also allow an arm to be hooked in the
strap so the door can be held close but with the prop blast keeping a 3
- 6 inch gap. All very useful here in NC let alone south FL.
Bill "flying with fresh struts and new latches" Watson
On 11/2/2015 5:07 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
Strap is nice to let the door up, and pull the door down..(while firmly
sitting in the seat).. not sure I would like going back to not having
the strap.
_____
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Better Gas Strut for Doors |
I agree completely.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 3, 2015, at 6:07 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wr
ote:
>
> Be careful. The door hinges are fragile. I have a rule that if the engin
e is running or if the plane is unattended and not in a hangar, the doors ar
e shut and locked.
>
> Carl
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
> Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2015 12:26 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Better Gas Strut for Doors
>
> I agree on the straps. Having just flown around the tropics a bit, I foun
d that the strap combined with fresh struts allow me to engine start and tax
i with 1 or both doors fully open. The straps allow them to be pulled down w
hile belted in. The also allow an arm to be hooked in the strap so the door
can be held close but with the prop blast keeping a 3 - 6 inch gap. All ve
ry useful here in NC let alone south FL.
>
> Bill "flying with fresh struts and new latches" Watson
>
> On 11/2/2015 5:07 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
> Strap is nice to let the door up, and pull the door down..(while firmly si
tting in the seat).. not sure I would like going back to not having the stra
p.
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Better Gas Strut for Doors |
I realize this is not a flying situation, but the doors were known for
flying off their hinges in the air when the rear wasn=99t
completely engaging. My rule is I check the doors are shut and secured
before starting and they don=99t open again until the engine is
shut off. The vents provide plenty of air for me in So Cal during the
middle of Summer while the engine is running.
Pascal
From: Carl Froehlich
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2015 3:07 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Better Gas Strut for Doors
Be careful. The door hinges are fragile. I have a rule that if the
engine is running or if the plane is unattended and not in a hangar, the
doors are shut and locked.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2015 12:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Better Gas Strut for Doors
I agree on the straps. Having just flown around the tropics a bit, I
found that the strap combined with fresh struts allow me to engine start
and taxi with 1 or both doors fully open. The straps allow them to be
pulled down while belted in. The also allow an arm to be hooked in the
strap so the door can be held close but with the prop blast keeping a 3
- 6 inch gap. All very useful here in NC let alone south FL.
Bill "flying with fresh struts and new latches" Watson
On 11/2/2015 5:07 PM, Don McDonald wrote:
Strap is nice to let the door up, and pull the door down..(while
firmly sitting in the seat).. not sure I would like going back to not
having the strap.
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