Today's Message Index:
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0. 10:07 AM - List Contribution - Value of the List... (Matt Dralle)
1. 07:07 AM - FS: Slick 6393 Mag, Auto Plug Harness, Mag Drive, Adapter (Barry)
2. 11:07 AM - Re: Wheel Servicing (Tim Olson)
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| Subject: | List Contribution - Value of the List... |
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| Subject: | FS: Slick 6393 Mag, Auto Plug Harness, Mag Drive, Adapter |
These items were removed to install an EIS electronic ignition
Slick 6393 Retard Breaker mag with 534 hrs. since new; at 493 hrs. the 500 hr.
inspection detailed in the Unison L-1363B Overhaul Manual was completed and new
primary contact points, retard breaker contact points, cam and carbon brush
and spring were replaced. The mag was modified with a 3/16" hole in the body for
the G3I electronic ignition and now has a bolt in the hole; it does not effect
normal operation. I can include a yellow tag if requested. No core is required.
New $1100 Sell for $415
Auto plug harness for 6 Cylinder Slick Mag in the LH position, 40 hr. since new.
Harness was built up from MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wire with the
factory plug boots I/A/W the manual from G3I.
New $350 Sell for $180
Mag drive p/n 73000 New $160 Sell for $75
Spacer/ Adapter p/n 73627 New $135 Sell for $45
Sell all four items for $685
All prices include shipping in the US and PayPal fees
blmarzaa(at)gmail.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=449516#449516
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel Servicing |
I use the same thing, only I welded the jack stand frame
just because I could. But, rather than relying on a
pin or carriage bolt in the wing tiedown, I
have a machined aluminum recepticle with a bolt
that I screw into the tiedown that completely surrounds
the jack head about 3/4" deep, so there's no way it
can slip off. I don't think it's necessary to go that
far, but it was as easy to drill the aluminum block
as it would have been to drill the divot in the head of
the jack and find a good strong grade 5 or 8 bolt to
make into a pin. The jacks are very nice to have
and were pretty cheap.
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/generaltips.html#Jacking_the_RV-10
Tim
On 11/15/2015 9:09 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
> Here's my HF bottle jack setup )thanks to other posters/builders) Wing
> Jack using HF bottle jack and plywood
> <http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=7984&log=154391&row=14>
>
> Electrical conduit worked over with a vise completes the jack. Use
> carriage bolts on the conduit ends. The rounded ends keep the plywood
> just far enough off the concrete floor to keep it dry and slide easily.
> And it works on mud....
>
> This jack got a good work out when I recently got stuck in the mud. I
> was able to easily jack up a wing at a time, put ply underneath each
> wheel and roll it out. The carriage bolt head on the dimpled bottle
> jack shaft is amazingly stable and secure. It would make an ugly hole
> if the wing fell off the jack but I'm now quite confident of its security.
>
> On 11/15/2015 8:46 AM, Albert wrote:
>> Harbor Freight has some hi-lift bottle jacks that work well. Drilled a hole
>> in the top of the ram to receive a threaded rod that replaces the tie down
>> ring. Little plywood to make a stablizing stand and it works well.
>> Albert Gardner
>> RV-10 N991RV
>> Yuma, AZ
>>
>> Hi
>> I am just starting my annual inspection and have a couple of questions
>> related to wheel servicing. There are:
>>
>> 1. Does anyone have a simple / safe / effective means for lifting and
>> supporting a wing while a wheel is removed. I have a motorcycle jack that I
>> have used under the fuse but am wondering if there is something better.
>> Les
>>
>
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