Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:20 AM - maintenance tips (David)
2. 06:51 AM - Re: maintenance tips (Miller John)
3. 06:53 AM - Re: maintenance tips (Carl Froehlich)
4. 07:17 AM - Re: maintenance tips (Linn Walters)
5. 09:42 AM - Re: maintenance tips (Phillip Perry)
6. 11:40 AM - Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings (Strasnuts)
7. 03:32 PM - Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings (rvdave)
8. 06:12 PM - Re: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings (Phillip Perry)
9. 06:25 PM - Re: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings (Phillip Perry)
Message 1
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| Subject: | maintenance tips |
The 360003 fuel pressure sensor has a tendency to start reading erratically
high fuel pressure after several hundred hours; an IA friend said the same
is true for the PMA stamped part for about 10-15 times the experimental
price. I replaced the part at about 400 hours and again at about 800 hours.
The new one started the routine a couple of months ago. After thinking about
the transducer, I decided to try cleaning the contacts; I have flown several
hours since then and the sensor is operating normally. I think that the
problem may be the oil residue, etc swirling about under the cowl and
causing contact problems. So far so good.
I believe most 10s have the Matco master cylinders supplied by Vans. I spoke
with George Happ of Matco about a problem I have seen on a couple of
occasions. Given the geometry of the rudder/brake pedals it is possible
through inattention to drag a brake slightly. The master cylinder is not
fully extended and therefore can not equalize internal pressures due to
covered input port; the result is a temporary faulty brake and perhaps
erratic steering as a result. It can happen with long taxi, hot weather and
dragging a brake ever so slightly. It has happened to me twice in about 1000
hours. It seems as though a brake bleed is necessary but after a short
period the situation resolves itself. At the time of occurrence it seems
best to remove one's feet from the brakes for a second or two and reapply.
David McNeill
N46007 TT 1000+
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: maintenance tips |
In a prior life with much heavier iron being pushed by a hot air
tailpipe, we were taught to only put your feet on the brake pedals when
you needed to brake, get on both brakes quickly with equal pressure, and
then get totally back off of them. Let the plane accelerate a bit, then
do it all over again. A series of slowing down through firm braking,
then accelerating until you need to slow it down again.
Constant pressure during taxiing creates heat. Enough heat will cause
brake fade and ignite any fluid around the pucks..
I have used this technique solely since building my -10 nearly 10 years
ago, and not only have there been no brake incidents, I replace the pads
about every 300 hours (there is still life left in them at that point, I
just feel better replacing them..).
grumpy
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 8:16 AM, David <dlm34077@cox.net> wrote:
>
> The 360003 fuel pressure sensor has a tendency to start reading
erratically high fuel pressure after several hundred hours; an IA friend
said the same is true for the PMA stamped part for about 10-15 times the
experimental price. I replaced the part at about 400 hours and again at
about 800 hours. The new one started the routine a couple of months ago.
After thinking about the transducer, I decided to try cleaning the
contacts; I have flown several hours since then and the sensor is
operating normally. I think that the problem may be the oil residue, etc
swirling about under the cowl and causing contact problems. So far so
good.
>
> I believe most 10s have the Matco master cylinders supplied by Vans. I
spoke with George Happ of Matco about a problem I have seen on a couple
of occasions. Given the geometry of the rudder/brake pedals it is
possible through inattention to drag a brake slightly. The master
cylinder is not fully extended and therefore can not equalize internal
pressures due to covered input port; the result is a temporary faulty
brake and perhaps erratic steering as a result. It can happen with long
taxi, hot weather and dragging a brake ever so slightly. It has happened
to me twice in about 1000 hours. It seems as though a brake bleed is
necessary but after a short period the situation resolves itself. At the
time of occurrence it seems best to remove one=99s feet from the
brakes for a second or two and reapply.
>
> David McNeill
> N46007 TT 1000+
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by
Avast.
> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email>
Message 3
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| Subject: | maintenance tips |
It is easy to drag a brake. Here is a note I sent out a few months ago on
the subject.
My son and son-in-law are Naval Aviators. As is easy to do, both have a
tendency to drag the brakes. A good friend of mine, Tom Doran, made these
extension on his milling machine from 1" Delron. He even made me one out of
steel for me to use as a drilling gig. I used a couple of hose clamps to
attached the gig and drill the #19 holes.
While I did this to help the son and son-in-law I confess I found them to be
much better than just the stock set up.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2016 9:17 AM
Subject: RV10-List: maintenance tips
The 360003 fuel pressure sensor has a tendency to start reading erratically
high fuel pressure after several hundred hours; an IA friend said the same
is true for the PMA stamped part for about 10-15 times the experimental
price. I replaced the part at about 400 hours and again at about 800 hours.
The new one started the routine a couple of months ago. After thinking about
the transducer, I decided to try cleaning the contacts; I have flown several
hours since then and the sensor is operating normally. I think that the
problem may be the oil residue, etc swirling about under the cowl and
causing contact problems. So far so good.
I believe most 10s have the Matco master cylinders supplied by Vans. I spoke
with George Happ of Matco about a problem I have seen on a couple of
occasions. Given the geometry of the rudder/brake pedals it is possible
through inattention to drag a brake slightly. The master cylinder is not
fully extended and therefore can not equalize internal pressures due to
covered input port; the result is a temporary faulty brake and perhaps
erratic steering as a result. It can happen with long taxi, hot weather and
dragging a brake ever so slightly. It has happened to me twice in about 1000
hours. It seems as though a brake bleed is necessary but after a short
period the situation resolves itself. At the time of occurrence it seems
best to remove one's feet from the brakes for a second or two and reapply.
David McNeill
N46007 TT 1000+
This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: maintenance tips |
Along with 'heel pads' you can put an additional compression spring on
the master cylinder shaft to help it relax fully. The angle of the
pedal just naturally makes it easy to drag the brakes.
As John Miller posted, short, hard brake pressure is always preferable
to dragging the brakes due to the heat. Tail-dragger pilots should be
used to that already.
AFAIK, the original Matco brake disks are a little thinner than their
Cleveland counterparts and don't have as much mass to store a lot of heat.
Linn
On 2/13/2016 9:49 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> It is easy to drag a brake. Here is a note I sent out a few months
> ago on the subject.
>
> My son and son-in-law are Naval Aviators. As is easy to do, both have
> a tendency to drag the brakes. A good friend of mine, Tom Doran, made
> these extension on his milling machine from 1 Delron. He even made
> me one out of steel for me to use as a drilling gig. I used a couple
> of hose clamps to attached the gig and drill the #19 holes.
>
> While I did this to help the son and son-in-law I confess I found them
> to be much better than just the stock set up.
>
>
> Carl
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 13, 2016 9:17 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: maintenance tips
>
> The 360003 fuel pressure sensor has a tendency to start reading
> erratically high fuel pressure after several hundred hours; an IA
> friend said the same is true for the PMA stamped part for about 10-15
> times the experimental price. I replaced the part at about 400 hours
> and again at about 800 hours. The new one started the routine a couple
> of months ago. After thinking about the transducer, I decided to try
> cleaning the contacts; I have flown several hours since then and the
> sensor is operating normally. I think that the problem may be the oil
> residue, etc swirling about under the cowl and causing contact
> problems. So far so good.
>
> I believe most 10s have the Matco master cylinders supplied by Vans. I
> spoke with George Happ of Matco about a problem I have seen on a
> couple of occasions. Given the geometry of the rudder/brake pedals it
> is possible through inattention to drag a brake slightly. The master
> cylinder is not fully extended and therefore can not equalize internal
> pressures due to covered input port; the result is a temporary faulty
> brake and perhaps erratic steering as a result. It can happen with
> long taxi, hot weather and dragging a brake ever so slightly. It has
> happened to me twice in about 1000 hours. It seems as though a brake
> bleed is necessary but after a short period the situation resolves
> itself. At the time of occurrence it seems best to remove ones feet
> from the brakes for a second or two and reapply.
>
> David McNeill
>
> N46007 TT 1000+
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: maintenance tips |
Here's my setup for return springs to assist the internal spring on the
master cylinders.
On the bottom is a delrin washer to help protect the master cylinder from
the spring.
Then the spring.
Then on top of that is a collar for the spring to press against on the top
and to adjust the tension you feel on the brake pedals.
All hardware purchased in the aviation department of Ace Hardware.
Probably around $7 per master cylinder.
Phil
[image: Inline image 1]
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 9:13 AM, Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com> wrote
:
> Along with 'heel pads' you can put an additional compression spring on th
e
> master cylinder shaft to help it relax fully. The angle of the pedal jus
t
> naturally makes it easy to drag the brakes.
>
> As John Miller posted, short, hard brake pressure is always preferable to
> dragging the brakes due to the heat. Tail-dragger pilots should be used
to
> that already.
> AFAIK, the original Matco brake disks are a little thinner than their
> Cleveland counterparts and don't have as much mass to store a lot of heat
.
> Linn
>
>
> On 2/13/2016 9:49 AM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> It is easy to drag a brake. Here is a note I sent out a few months ago o
n
> the subject.
>
>
> My son and son-in-law are Naval Aviators. As is easy to do, both have a
> tendency to drag the brakes. A good friend of mine, Tom Doran, made thes
e
> extension on his milling machine from 1=9D Delron. He even made me
one out
> of steel for me to use as a drilling gig. I used a couple of hose clamps
> to attached the gig and drill the #19 holes.
>
>
> While I did this to help the son and son-in-law I confess I found them to
> be much better than just the stock set up.
>
>
> Carl
>
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [
> mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> <owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] *On Behalf Of *David
> *Sent:* Saturday, February 13, 2016 9:17 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: maintenance tips
>
>
> The 360003 fuel pressure sensor has a tendency to start reading
> erratically high fuel pressure after several hundred hours; an IA friend
> said the same is true for the PMA stamped part for about 10-15 times the
> experimental price. I replaced the part at about 400 hours and again at
> about 800 hours. The new one started the routine a couple of months ago.
> After thinking about the transducer, I decided to try cleaning the
> contacts; I have flown several hours since then and the sensor is operati
ng
> normally. I think that the problem may be the oil residue, etc swirling
> about under the cowl and causing contact problems. So far so good.
>
>
> I believe most 10s have the Matco master cylinders supplied by Vans. I
> spoke with George Happ of Matco about a problem I have seen on a couple o
f
> occasions. Given the geometry of the rudder/brake pedals it is possible
> through inattention to drag a brake slightly. The master cylinder is not
> fully extended and therefore can not equalize internal pressures due to
> covered input port; the result is a temporary faulty brake and perhaps
> erratic steering as a result. It can happen with long taxi, hot weather a
nd
> dragging a brake ever so slightly. It has happened to me twice in about
> 1000 hours. It seems as though a brake bleed is necessary but after a sho
rt
> period the situation resolves itself. At the time of occurrence it seems
> best to remove one=99s feet from the brakes for a second or two and
reapply.
>
>
> David McNeill
>
> N46007 TT 1000+
>
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com <https://www.avast.com/sig-email>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
Dave, I am reluctant to make these for control surfaces for other builders. I
think each one would have to be specifically made for each aircraft after reaming
the hole.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
530 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452798#452798
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding them down a
little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a little.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
I have some delrin coming and I'm planning on making them for my sloppiness.
I'm planning on reaming the bell crank to 3/8 and then seeing how well a 3/8 delrin
rod fits. If it's still too loose, I have a 7/16 rod coming in the mail
too. I'll be able turn it down to fit or possibly it would fit without any working
(though I doubt it).
Once I find the rod that fits best, then I'll ream the center on a friends lathe.
I have a 3/16" reamer that will work, but I plan on using another reamer that's
11/64 (1/64 under sized) to see how it fits first. Then if it's too tight
I'll open it up to the full 3/16 with the other reamer.
I'll probably have a report on how well it works in the next 2 weeks or possibly
late next week.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, rvdave <rv610dave@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding them down
a little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a little.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 for sale
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
Sorry typo.
15/64. Not 11/64...
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 8:08 PM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I have some delrin coming and I'm planning on making them for my sloppiness.
>
> I'm planning on reaming the bell crank to 3/8 and then seeing how well a 3/8
delrin rod fits. If it's still too loose, I have a 7/16 rod coming in the mail
too. I'll be able turn it down to fit or possibly it would fit without any
working (though I doubt it).
>
> Once I find the rod that fits best, then I'll ream the center on a friends lathe.
I have a 3/16" reamer that will work, but I plan on using another reamer
that's 11/64 (1/64 under sized) to see how it fits first. Then if it's too tight
I'll open it up to the full 3/16 with the other reamer.
>
> I'll probably have a report on how well it works in the next 2 weeks or possibly
late next week.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, rvdave <rv610dave@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding them down
a little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a little.
>>
>> --------
>> Dave Ford
>> RV6 for sale
>> RV10 building
>> Cadillac, MI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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