Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:02 AM - Re: Titan Engine IO-540 ()
2. 06:42 AM - Re: Glare-shield painting (David Maib)
3. 07:19 AM - Re: Glare-shield painting (Rene)
4. 01:15 PM - Re: Glare-shield painting (David Leikam)
5. 02:23 PM - Re: Glare-shield painting (David Leikam)
6. 09:56 PM - Re: Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings (Phillip Perry)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Titan Engine IO-540 |
A search on the VAF site will turn up a write-up I did on a factory tour I
took back at Thanksgiving.
-----Original Message-----
From: whodja
Sent: Monday, February 22, 2016 7:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Titan Engine IO-540
Does anyone have this engine on order? Any feedback on Titan engines?
I ordered my IO-540 and expect delivery in May/June. Curious to hear about
your experience. Especially now that they are owned by Continental Motors.
Tal Holloway
RV-10 QB fuselage/wings
Empennage complete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=453067#453067
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Glare-shield painting |
Flat black, probably Rustoleum, but don't really remember. Underside same tan as
panel. Cut openings for vent fans prior to paint and windshield installation.
850 hours and 7 1/2 years later it is still looking good
David Maib
> On Feb 23, 2016, at 5:35 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
>
>
> Guys
>
> Questions for those of you who didn't upholster the glare-shield of your -10:
>
> Which colour did you paint the upper surface of your glare-shield?
>
> And which colour, if different, did you paint the under part of the glare-shield
which protrudes above the instrument panel?
>
> And by the way, when in the building process did you paint these 2 surfaces?
>
> TIA
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Glare-shield painting |
I got some dashboard material from Cleveland and it works great. You just
glue it in. Also got the trim piece from them.
Attached a picture....not a great one. I did this after the wind screen was
in.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Maib
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2016 7:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glare-shield painting
Flat black, probably Rustoleum, but don't really remember. Underside same
tan as panel. Cut openings for vent fans prior to paint and windshield
installation. 850 hours and 7 1/2 years later it is still looking good
David Maib
> On Feb 23, 2016, at 5:35 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
>
>
> Guys
>
> Questions for those of you who didn't upholster the glare-shield of your
-10:
>
> Which colour did you paint the upper surface of your glare-shield?
>
> And which colour, if different, did you paint the under part of the
glare-shield which protrudes above the instrument panel?
>
> And by the way, when in the building process did you paint these 2
surfaces?
>
> TIA
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Glare-shield painting |
I used a spray on, black bed liner product from a local auto parts
store.
Put on several coats till the can was gone. Zero glare or windscreen
reflection as well as non-slip. Tough as nails.
Dave Leikam
N89DA
> On Feb 24, 2016, at 9:16 AM, Rene <rene@felker.com> wrote:
>
> I got some dashboard material from Cleveland and it works great. You
just
> glue it in. Also got the trim piece from them.
>
> Attached a picture....not a great one. I did this after the wind
screen was
> in.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] On Behalf Of David Maib
> Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2016 7:38 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glare-shield painting
>
>
> Flat black, probably Rustoleum, but don't really remember. Underside
same
> tan as panel. Cut openings for vent fans prior to paint and windshield
> installation. 850 hours and 7 1/2 years later it is still looking good
>
> David Maib
>
>
>> On Feb 23, 2016, at 5:35 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
wrote:
>>
>>
>> Guys
>>
>> Questions for those of you who didn't upholster the glare-shield of
your
> -10:
>>
>> Which colour did you paint the upper surface of your glare-shield?
>>
>> And which colour, if different, did you paint the under part of the
> glare-shield which protrudes above the instrument panel?
>>
>> And by the way, when in the building process did you paint these 2
> surfaces?
>>
>> TIA
>> Carlos
>>
>> Enviado do meu iPhone
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> <IMG_1805.jpg>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Glare-shield painting |
Sorry for the multiple posts!
I was getting a delivery error.
Dave Leikam
> On Feb 24, 2016, at 3:09 PM, David Leikam <arplnplt@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I used a spray on, black bed liner product from a local auto parts
store.
> Put on several coats till the can was gone. Zero glare or windscreen
reflection as well as non-slip. Tough as nails.
>
> Dave Leikam
> N89DA
>
>
>> On Feb 24, 2016, at 9:16 AM, Rene <rene@felker.com
<mailto:rene@felker.com>> wrote:
>>
>> I got some dashboard material from Cleveland and it works great. You
just
>> glue it in. Also got the trim piece from them.
>>
>> Attached a picture....not a great one. I did this after the wind
screen was
>> in.
>>
>> Rene'
>> 801-721-6080
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>] On Behalf Of David Maib
>> Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2016 7:38 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv10-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glare-shield painting
>>
<mailto:dmaib@me.com>>
>>
>> Flat black, probably Rustoleum, but don't really remember. Underside
same
>> tan as panel. Cut openings for vent fans prior to paint and
windshield
>> installation. 850 hours and 7 1/2 years later it is still looking
good
>>
>> David Maib
>>
>>
>>> On Feb 23, 2016, at 5:35 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt
<mailto:trigo@mail.telepac.pt>> wrote:
>>>
<mailto:trigo@mail.telepac.pt>>
>>>
>>> Guys
>>>
>>> Questions for those of you who didn't upholster the glare-shield of
your
>> -10:
>>>
>>> Which colour did you paint the upper surface of your glare-shield?
>>>
>>> And which colour, if different, did you paint the under part of the
>> glare-shield which protrudes above the instrument panel?
>>>
>>> And by the way, when in the building process did you paint these 2
>> surfaces?
>>>
>>> TIA
>>> Carlos
>>>
>>> Enviado do meu iPhone
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> <IMG_1805.jpg>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Control Stick Slop - Bushings |
I thought I'd follow up on the control stick slop issue that I had in my
system since I promised a post-bushing report. I had some major play in my
control sticks and ended up following Sean's advice and replaced the brass
bushings with delrin. I attached a couple of photos of the plans to help
with the explanation.
After discovering the slop, I ordered delrin rods from Aircraft Spruce. I
ordered 3/8" hoping they'd be a drop-in replacement for a tight fit without
any machining and 7/16" in case I had to machine them down to something
closer to proper size for a good fit in the control stick base. Each stick
was about $3 for a 3 ft stick, so there was no harm in ordering both.
I pulled the sticks, stick bases, and control column out of the plane and
put it on the bench. On disassembly, I found that there was play between
the brass bushing and the welded part of the stick bases. I tried the
3/8" rod to see how well it fit and it dropped straight through
unrestricted. The inside of the welded stick bases were way more than the
spec'd 3/8". That was one part of the problem. The other part of the
problem was the slop on the inside of the bushing between the bushing and
the 1/4" bolt. That slop was worse than the welded part. Additionally I
found one more location for slop and that was the ability to slide the
stick forward and aft on the 1/4" bolt between the stick bases and the
control column that the stick bases mount to.
The first order of business was to get new bushings machined out. Since
the stick bases were more than 3/8" I used the 7/16" delrin rod and turned
it down on a lathe that another guy on the airport had. It was turned
down until it was a thumb-press fit into the stick bases.
The next step was to drill and ream the hole for the 1/4" bolt down the
center. I initially tried to ream it to 15/64 (1/64" undersized for the
1/4" bolt) to get a snug fit in the event that the bolt was on the skinny
side of the tolerance. That didn't work out and I ultimately had to open
it to a full 1/4" to get the bolt to slide through.
Back to the work bench where I installed the new bushings. The fit was
free of any play between that bases and the bushing and between the bushing
and the bolt.
The final task was to eliminate the sliding motion of the sticks forward
and aft on the 1/4" bolt between the stick bases and the control column.
This was a pretty simple task of inserting AN960-416 and 416L washers to
shim as much of the gaps away as possible. Obviously you can't get all of
the gap out, so you have to take care of the last little bit by tightening
the nut and pulling the control column in tighter on the stick bases.
I tuned this part of the system like you would a wheel bearing. I rotated
the sticks left and right while tightening the nut one flat at a time.
Once I began to feel tension on the sticks, I stopped and backed off one
flat where I then dropped in the cotter key in to lock it into position.
The system linkages are tight (meaning no play) and very smooth (minus the
drag of the TruTrak servos). You can work the left and right sticks in
opposition directions, like driving a bull dozer, and you won't find any
play. You can go all the way out to the control surface and hold it tight
while wiggling the stick and not find any play between the control surface
and stick. I'm very happy with the outcome.
This wasn't a terrible change to make and if you have the seats out and
access to a lathe, you could probably do it in less than a day. You
certainly could do it on a drill press with some forethought. creative
jigs, patience, and a few sacrificed pieces of delrin while you traverse
the learning curve, but the lathe is certainly the fastest and easiest.
I'd do it again... Glad it turned out the way it did.
Phil
[image: Inline image 1]
[image: Inline image 2]
On Sat, Feb 13, 2016 at 8:08 PM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
> I have some delrin coming and I'm planning on making them for my
> sloppiness.
>
> I'm planning on reaming the bell crank to 3/8 and then seeing how well a
> 3/8 delrin rod fits. If it's still too loose, I have a 7/16 rod coming in
> the mail too. I'll be able turn it down to fit or possibly it would fit
> without any working (though I doubt it).
>
> Once I find the rod that fits best, then I'll ream the center on a friends
> lathe. I have a 3/16" reamer that will work, but I plan on using another
> reamer that's 11/64 (1/64 under sized) to see how it fits first. Then if
> it's too tight I'll open it up to the full 3/16 with the other reamer.
>
> I'll probably have a report on how well it works in the next 2 weeks or
> possibly late next week.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:29 PM, rvdave <rv610dave@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I thought about that and wondered about the possibility of sanding them
> down a little bit if oversized since the delrin does compress a little.
> >
> > --------
> > Dave Ford
> > RV6 for sale
> > RV10 building
> > Cadillac, MI
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=452802#452802
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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