Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:13 AM - Re: Sikaflex question (Justin Jones)
2. 04:48 AM - Re: Fuselage Side Skin Dimpling (Jack Philips)
3. 05:54 AM - Re: Re: Navworx upgrade new wires for ghosting (Geoff Combs)
4. 10:10 AM - Prop Spinner (Ron Walker)
5. 10:28 AM - Re: Prop Spinner (Linn Walters)
6. 10:32 AM - Re: Prop Spinner (Tim Olson)
7. 11:38 AM - Re: Prop Spinner (Bob Turner)
8. 11:50 AM - Re: Prop Spinner (Gary Specketer)
9. 12:27 PM - Re: Sikaflex question (Miller John)
10. 01:20 PM - Re: Sikaflex question (Tim Olson)
11. 01:26 PM - Re: Sikaflex question (Tim Olson)
12. 02:24 PM - Re: Prop Spinner (Bill Watson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Sikaflex question |
West marine carries Sikaflex and the 3m products. If there isn't a West Marine
near you, and marine supply store should carry it.
Justin
> On May 1, 2016, at 23:47, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
>
> How pricey do you think it would be?
>
> The total amount would be a 1" strip around approximately
> the size of the front windshield on the 10.
>
> ...
>
> And since I see Justin Jones just chimed in, Justin, where is the 3M 3200
> purchased from usually, is something that would be locally available in
> say, an auto parts store?
>
> I'm not really too worried about the adhesion, I just want something
> that will be quick and easy to work with, that I can maks off
> as you say, and be done with it. The screws do all the real holding.
> Tim
>
>
>> On 5/1/2016 10:33 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> Call Geoff, and get his Lord urethane adhesive. Not just strong, very easy to
work with. Can use urethane reducer from any auto paint shop, and it doesn't
harm Plexi. I did all 5 windows in my 10 with it.
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Fuselage Side Skin Dimpling |
Hi Kent,
I'm at this stage myself. I thought about using AN470s but the skin has
already been dimpled. I used the pop rivet dimpler where I could, and when
I couldn't I used a machine countersink - it's been a couple of weeks since
I did this and now the skins have been riveted on, but as I recall there
were only 4 holes where the substructure was too thick to use the pop rivet
dimpling tool. I countersunk those 4 holes and the countersink did not
penetrate too far in the inside-most piece of structure to prevent forming a
good shop head on the rivet.
The pop-rivet dimpler works ok on the rest of the holes.
Jack Phillips
#40610
Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
Fuselage
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent Ogden
Sent: Sunday, May 1, 2016 7:02 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Fuselage Side Skin Dimpling
I have a question about the fuselage mid side skin dimpling. The
instructions say to dimple all of the 3/32" holes that were drilled to the
understructure. However, the corresponding holes in the F-1015A outboard
seat ribs were not dimpled. They weren't specifically excluded from
dimpling, but there was no step where they were dimpled so I didn't do it.
This is the outboard rib immediately aft of the spar carry through. I have
attached a clip of from the construction manual of this area. The holes in
the F-1018 rear seat ribs (the next rib aft of the problem ribs) WERE
dimpled as per the instructions.
It's going to be a pain to try and dimple those holes now. It looks like
many of them will be hidden in the wing root area so I was thinking of using
AN470 rivets in those holes instead of AN426. It looks like some of the
holes will be above the wing though, so I will have to figure out a way to
dimple those holes or countersink them. I do have a tight fit dimpling set
that uses a rivet puller, but the performance is barely acceptable on
thinner material. I will probably call Vans on this but I was wondering if
others have dealt with this issue and what the resolution was.
Thanks for any thoughts/suggestions.
Kent Ogden
#40710
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Navworx upgrade new wires for ghosting |
Tim thanks for the reply. I do have the newer box and have also sent it back
a couple times. That being said I did add the
Wire from Navworx box #35 pin to the 330 Transponder #31 pin. I flew it
yesterday and it all seemed good. I thought about trying
It without but I Had 2 unused wires that I could use so I did install it.
Geoff
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2016 11:26 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Navworx upgrade new wires for ghosting
Hi Geoff,
I have had NavWorX ADS-600B for many years. There is a lot that changed
since I first put it in back in 2009/2010. Last year I sent my box back in
to have the hardware updated, and I bought a 2nd unit for my
almost-completed RV-14. So I had the old wiring diagram wired previously,
and when I got it back, I had to re-wire a few things.
Check the manual well, you will see that there is a serial number where
things changed from a hardware perspective. I can't remember the s/n
offhand, but it's I think in the 600's or 800's. Once you verify that you
will know which diagram to wire by. If yours is the older numbers you may
want to send it in for upgrade.
Now, that said, since I was wired previously without the inhibit, I didn't
wire it when I went to the new wiring diagram either.
I have the GTX330 in the RV-10 also. It seems to work just fine without it.
I don't see ghosting. I can't say "NEVER" because a couple times in my life
when passing by specific ATC class Bravos I've seen a couple of oddities
when you are being bombarded by terminal radar and things weren't up to
snuff with something in the overall ADS-B system. But, I've flown all over
the place and it pretty much just works well all over. So I would leave it
not wired and see how it goes, unless you for some reason have easy access
to the wiring...then maybe go for it.
Tim
On 5/1/2016 9:11 PM, Geoff Combs wrote:
> --> <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
>
> So you do not have ghosting
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Geoff Combs
> Aerosport Modeling & Design
>
>
Message 4
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I'm working at fitting my spinner to the prop now - I have the initial
fit complete. Of course, the blades need to be moved thru their entire
range of motion to ensure it has clearance when in full pitch mode. Is
there any trick that will set the blades to be in full pitch and stay
there ? It takes a pretty hefty effort to manually rotate those puppies ...
--Ron
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Spinner |
I think 'hefty' is too mild!!!
I used a contour gauge to transfer the blade shape to a 2X4 and cut it
with a scroll saw .... the one I bought to cut the spinner backing plate.
It works but I still needed someone to hold the 2X4 while I worked on
the blade holes.
I don't know any way to move the blades otherwise .... I've always had
fixed pitch up till now.
Linn
On 5/2/2016 1:08 PM, Ron Walker wrote:
>
> I'm working at fitting my spinner to the prop now - I have the initial
> fit complete. Of course, the blades need to be moved thru their entire
> range of motion to ensure it has clearance when in full pitch mode. Is
> there any trick that will set the blades to be in full pitch and stay
> there ? It takes a pretty hefty effort to manually rotate those
> puppies ...
>
> --Ron
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Spinner |
I don't think so. I just did this and it was kind of a 2 person
job if you want it to be easy.
Tim
On 5/2/2016 12:08 PM, Ron Walker wrote:
>
> I'm working at fitting my spinner to the prop now - I have the initial
> fit complete. Of course, the blades need to be moved thru their entire
> range of motion to ensure it has clearance when in full pitch mode. Is
> there any trick that will set the blades to be in full pitch and stay
> there ? It takes a pretty hefty effort to manually rotate those puppies ...
>
> --Ron
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Spinner |
I did mine via the tedious process of twist blade by hand, note interference, sand,
repeat. With some work you can remove the prop governor, fab and mount an
adaptor plate to the engine, then use air pressure to twist the prop.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=455763#455763
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Spinner |
I just finished the spinner mount. I clamped a couple of 1x2 boards about 2 feet
long over the blade and used that to rotate the blades. The prop still had
the protective poly on it so I clamped over the top of the poly.
Gary Specketer
> On May 2, 2016, at 1:08 PM, Ron Walker <n520tx@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'm working at fitting my spinner to the prop now - I have the initial fit complete.
Of course, the blades need to be moved thru their entire range of motion
to ensure it has clearance when in full pitch mode. Is there any trick that
will set the blades to be in full pitch and stay there ? It takes a pretty hefty
effort to manually rotate those puppies ...
>
> --Ron
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Sikaflex question |
Tim and all,
On my RV8, Todd, the maker of Todd=99s canopies, came to my hangar
and I helped him cut, fit and glue the RV8 canopy to the frame. No
screws anywhere.
Todd had me get 2 tubes of 3M Fast Cure 5200 sealant (only used one
tube). I documented the whole process well and you can see it on his
website: http://www.toddscanopies.com/tips-for-rv8.html
I=99ll never use another screw in plexi again, and this 3M
adhesive is very easy to use as compared to the sikaflex.
grumpy
N184JM
> On May 1, 2016, at 10:28 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi all, sorry to go all rogue on you and ask a non-RV-10
> question, but...
>
> I know some people use sikaflex for their windows.
>
> In the RV-14, the rear window per-plans is installed with
> proseal. I may or may not have enough left in my can
> to install the rear window. It would need maybe a good
> solid 1/4" or 3/8" bead for maybe a distance of 15' max.
> So I'm thinking of buying something fresh. The window
> itself is held in with screws, so I'm not looking for
> something super structurally tough, but just good and
> sticky and paintable. Do you who've used sikaflex thing
> that would be the way to go? And if so, where I can buy
> it so that I can order it Monday and have it before the
> end of the week? Oh, and do I need a special gun or
> will a normal caulk gun work?
>
> Tim
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Sikaflex question |
Interesting. The 5200 is supposed to be non-removable, so I didn't want
that, because chances are, I'll be replacing my rear window in the
first couple years. I bought my plexi drill bits from Avery back
when they got a bad batch. So I have some holes with chips and
cracks here and there. Not much I can do with it at this point.
So I can't use 5200.
Also, on the RV-14, it's not really an option to do a
screwless canopy. They do so much for you that all of the
screw holes would be in the canopy even if you did a
screwless install.
Today I ordered 3M 4000 UV. I can't use the 3200 because
it's silicone and not paintable. So I had to either
get the 4000 UV, 4200 FC, or 5200. And I didn't want
it to be non-removable.
Hopefully it'll install pretty easily.
Tim
On 5/2/2016 2:26 PM, Miller John wrote:
> Tim and all,
>
> On my RV8, Todd, the maker of Todds canopies, came to my hangar and I
> helped him cut, fit and glue the RV8 canopy to the frame. No screws
> anywhere.
>
> Todd had me get 2 tubes of 3M Fast Cure 5200 sealant (only used one
> tube). I documented the whole process well and you can see it on his
> website: http://www.toddscanopies.com/tips-for-rv8.html
>
> Ill never use another screw in plexi again, and this 3M adhesive is
> very easy to use as compared to the sikaflex.
>
> grumpy
> N184JM
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Sikaflex question |
Grumpy, I have a quick follow-up.
The stuff you have pictured is white. On the RV-14 the
inside of the window will be visible. I bought black due to
this. When you use 5200, is the inside covered up by
something? Just curious. I don't intend to paint the
inner strip of canopy, but that would be about my
only choice.
Tim
do not archive
On 5/2/2016 2:26 PM, Miller John wrote:
> Tim and all,
>
> On my RV8, Todd, the maker of Todds canopies, came to my hangar and I
> helped him cut, fit and glue the RV8 canopy to the frame. No screws
> anywhere.
>
> Todd had me get 2 tubes of 3M Fast Cure 5200 sealant (only used one
> tube). I documented the whole process well and you can see it on his
> website: http://www.toddscanopies.com/tips-for-rv8.html
>
> Ill never use another screw in plexi again, and this 3M adhesive is
> very easy to use as compared to the sikaflex.
>
> grumpy
> N184JM
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Spinner |
I assume that you are not installing the 'standard' prop that is part of
the 'standard' engine package. I say that because I used the kit
supplied template to cutout the spinner and it fit the 'standard' prop
as close as I could want.
What prop is popular these days?
Bill "feeling out of it" Watson
On 5/2/2016 1:08 PM, Ron Walker wrote:
>
> I'm working at fitting my spinner to the prop now - I have the initial
> fit complete. Of course, the blades need to be moved thru their entire
> range of motion to ensure it has clearance when in full pitch mode. Is
> there any trick that will set the blades to be in full pitch and stay
> there ? It takes a pretty hefty effort to manually rotate those
> puppies ...
>
> --Ron
>
>
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