Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:24 PM - Re: SB (woxofswa)
2. 02:31 PM - Re: Re: SB (Tim Olson)
3. 03:14 PM - Re: Re: SB (Patrick Thyssen)
4. 03:42 PM - Re: SB (woxofswa)
5. 04:33 PM - cable lengths (David)
6. 04:57 PM - Re: cable lengths (Carl Froehlich)
7. 06:00 PM - Re: cable lengths (Tim Olson)
8. 06:08 PM - Re: SB (dmaib@me.com)
9. 06:46 PM - Re: cable lengths (Lenny Iszak)
Message 1
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My understanding of the SB is that in the 10, it isn't about the web of the spar,
but the bends of the flanges of the aileron attach brackets. I also recall
reading that in this particular issue, there have been zero indications of a
problem in any of the existing fleet, just engineering recalculations of a potential
for a problem.
It almost seems to me that it would have been less confusing to all if they had
issued two separate SB's for the respective models affected by the respective
concerns.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=456204#456204
Message 2
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On VAF, one of the Van's people did comment that they had found the cracking
on at least one of the factory demonstrators, and 2 other planes.
So this isn't just an engineering recalculation, but something they've
observed. I think they're probably just as interested as we are to see
the magnitude of the actual problem in numbers of actual airplanes
affected.
Tim
On 5/13/2016 2:23 PM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> My understanding of the SB is that in the 10, it isn't about the web of the spar,
but the bends of the flanges of the aileron attach brackets. I also recall
reading that in this particular issue, there have been zero indications of
a problem in any of the existing fleet, just engineering recalculations of a potential
for a problem.
>
> It almost seems to me that it would have been less confusing to all if they had
issued two separate SB's for the respective models affected by the respective
concerns.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Flew May 10 2014
>
>
Message 3
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Just to let you know there is a rv4 around here found cracks. Don't know details
just he already ordered parts to fix.
Off subject I found both of my steps cracked. On bottom side of steps,one was
cracked 2/3 around the steel not at weld. Looks like it started right at weld.
Patrick Thyssen
Sent from my iPad
> On May 13, 2016, at 4:30 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
>
> On VAF, one of the Van's people did comment that they had found the cracking
> on at least one of the factory demonstrators, and 2 other planes.
> So this isn't just an engineering recalculation, but something they've
> observed. I think they're probably just as interested as we are to see
> the magnitude of the actual problem in numbers of actual airplanes
> affected.
> Tim
>
>> On 5/13/2016 2:23 PM, woxofswa wrote:
>>
>> My understanding of the SB is that in the 10, it isn't about the web of the
spar, but the bends of the flanges of the aileron attach brackets. I also recall
reading that in this particular issue, there have been zero indications of
a problem in any of the existing fleet, just engineering recalculations of a
potential for a problem.
>>
>> It almost seems to me that it would have been less confusing to all if they
had issued two separate SB's for the respective models affected by the respective
concerns.
>>
>> --------
>> Myron Nelson
>> Mesa, AZ
>> Flew May 10 2014
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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I was referring specifically to the flange bend of the aileron bracket. Have cracks
been found there?
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Flew May 10 2014
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=456218#456218
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You might want to special order some cables from aircraft spruce. They make
a Teflon core version about $200 each, but you will not have to change them
since the internal cores do not melt and become stiff and unmovable. Also
add 1-2" to Vans length, better an inch too much than an inch too little
depending on your routing. It is a pain to change a cable with the engine in
place. Be sure and use the stainless/aluminum fixture to better seal the
FF heat out of the cabin.
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Message 6
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I still use the Van's cables but I have always run them inside a small
diameter fire sleeve where they pass under the engine - same with the
alternator and starter cables. This has worked well over 14 years.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 7:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: cable lengths
You might want to special order some cables from aircraft spruce. They make
a Teflon core version about $200 each, but you will not have to change them
since the internal cores do not melt and become stiff and unmovable. Also
add 1-2" to Vans length, better an inch too much than an inch too little
depending on your routing. It is a pain to change a cable with the engine in
place. Be sure and use the stainless/aluminum fixture to better seal the
FF heat out of the cabin.
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| Subject: | Re: cable lengths |
This is from my RV-14 install that I just did, it's basically what Carl
is talking about.
I got silver firesleeve just like you use on hoses. 1/2" fit well over
the cable.
Sealed the ends with high temp RTV.
http://www.myrv14.com/buildlog/20160428/RV14160420-173853-076.jpg
Then on Amazon is this 3/4" silver wrap that says it's good for 1000F
continuous,
and 2000F intermittent if I remember right. The silver does a good job of
rejecting the heat.
I wish I would have done this on my original RV-10 install.
Tim
On 5/13/2016 6:54 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote:
>
> I still use the Vans cables but I have always run them inside a small
> diameter fire sleeve where they pass under the engine same with the
> alternator and starter cables. This has worked well over 14 years.
>
>
> Carl
>
> *From:*owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> *Sent:* Friday, May 13, 2016 7:33 PM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV10-List: cable lengths
>
> You might want to special order some cables from aircraft spruce. They
> make a Teflon core version about $200 each, but you will not have to
> change them since the internal cores do not melt and become stiff and
> unmovable. Also add 1-2 to Vans length, better an inch too much than
> an inch too little depending on your routing. It is a pain to change a
> cable with the engine in place. Be sure and use the stainless/aluminum
> fixture to better seal the
>
> FF heat out of the cabin.
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon>
>
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
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>
Message 8
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woxofswa wrote:
> I was referring specifically to the flange bend of the aileron bracket. Have
cracks been found there?
I am think, based on VAF posts from Scott at Vans, that there were spar web cracks
on the 10. However, I am not 100% sure that the cracks were on the 10. I am
sure, again based on posts from Scott, that the concern with the aileron brackets
is specifically with cracks in the radius of the brackets, not particularly
with the rivets. He also said that there had been NO cracks discovered in
the aileron brackets on any of the airplanes at this time. Stress Analysis done
as part of Van's study of the spar web problem identified the inboard aileron
brackets as potential trouble spots. Hence, the inclusion of the aileron brackets
in the SB.
Finished my inspection today and no problems were found. In fact, everything looks
pretty much like new. 2008 and 855 hours. I removed the material as suggested
in the SB and will now be able to view the suspect area without taking the
ailerons off in the future.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=456223#456223
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: cable lengths |
Just removed my cables. They are all sticky, but the cover at the end of the mixture
cable is melted. The next set will be firesleeved as Tim suggested.
Van's cables would have worked just fine if i would have protected them from heat.
They used to be nice and smooth for about 20-30 hours.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=456226#456226
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