Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:59 AM - Re: Slick Ignition Harness (Lenny Iszak)
2. 09:09 AM - Re: Re: Slick Ignition Harness (Albert)
3. 09:14 AM - Headset jacks (David Carr)
4. 09:39 AM - Re: Headset jacks (Linn Walters)
5. 09:44 AM - Re: Headset jacks (Carl Froehlich)
6. 09:51 AM - Re: Re: Slick Ignition Harness (Tim Olson)
7. 10:00 AM - Re: Headset jacks (Albert)
8. 10:03 AM - Re: Re: Slick Ignition Harness (Tim Olson)
9. 10:13 AM - Re: Headset jacks (Jesse Saint)
10. 10:55 AM - Re: Slick Ignition Harness (Lenny Iszak)
11. 01:02 PM - Re: Headset jacks (David Saylor)
12. 02:21 PM - Re: Re: Slick Ignition Harness (Albert)
13. 05:51 PM - windscreen (Bryan Wade)
14. 06:48 PM - Re: windscreen (Bruce Hoppe)
15. 06:51 PM - Re: 6 Cylinder P Mag (Justin Jones)
16. 07:09 PM - Re: windscreen (Jesse Saint)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Slick Ignition Harness |
I have a set of stock Slick harnesses on the shelf, I can measure them for you
if you still need the lengths.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460423#460423
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| Subject: | Re: Slick Ignition Harness |
Lenny: I have a Lightspeed electronic ignition on the right so I have only 1
Slick mag 6351) on the left. Plugs are large barrells 3/4"). When I set
this up I combined wires from a Skytronics set to get proper wire lengths
since some of the wires were too short. So I have 6 unused wires left over.
3 of them are too short to be of any use but the other 3 would work to start
a new harness. sing those wires as a start what I need at a minimum is 3
wires at least 60", 50" and 41" long. If someone has a harness that they
would be willing to sell I am very interested because every place I have
looked has 2-3 week lead times. So far haven't found any on the shelf at
local suppliers. Spruce list harnesses only by engine type/suffix so I don't
know how long the wires are.
Lenny, if you could measure your harnesses I would appreciate it. Do you
know what suffix they were made for? I have found it very easy to
move/replace wires around in the caps so that is not a problem. I wonder if
somebody just makes up wires to order. I'd just order what I need and
install them myself.
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 1:46 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Slick Ignition Harness
--> <lenard@rapiddecision.com>
I have a set of stock Slick harnesses on the shelf, I can measure them for
you if you still need the lengths.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460423#460423
Message 3
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Hi list,
I've been thinking of locating my front headset jacks on the outside edges
of the panel switch bar and the rear jacks at the forward edge of the
outboard "armrest" panels.
How did the jacks you installed work out? Are there any changes you wish
that you made prior to drilling?
Thanks for the help,
David
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Headset jacks |
Originally I had the jacks mounted on the switch panel. My other planes
have the jacks close to the same place. On the other planes I have to
drape the cords so they're out of the way for entry and egress. PITA
for me. So, I placed the jacks on the tunnel cover for both front and
rear about where the hips would sit so they'd be out of the way . I
wired the switch panel jacks direct to radios for emergency use in case
the intercom went belly up.. Headsets will hang from my overhead
console so they would be out of the way for entrance and egress. I'm not
flying yet so I don't know if my thought process is good or not.
Linn
On 9/12/2016 11:57 AM, David Carr wrote:
> Hi list,
>
> I've been thinking of locating my front headset jacks on the outside
> edges of the panel switch bar and the rear jacks at the forward edge
> of the outboard "armrest" panels.
>
> How did the jacks you installed work out? Are there any changes you
> wish that you made prior to drilling?
>
> Thanks for the help,
> David
Message 5
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I used two of these for the front:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/forbes5.php?clickkey=3041
841
One is located on each side of the tunnel, just forward of the seat. I
like the jacks here as the headset cord is not going over your lap or
legs. In the back I mounted the jacks on the flap cover, just outboard
of the tunnel on each side. Same idea =93 the cords do not cross
over your lap or legs.
I=99m happy on how they worked out.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Carr
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 11:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Headset jacks
Hi list,
I've been thinking of locating my front headset jacks on the outside
edges of the panel switch bar and the rear jacks at the forward edge of
the outboard "armrest" panels.
How did the jacks you installed work out? Are there any changes you
wish that you made prior to drilling?
Thanks for the help,
David
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Slick Ignition Harness |
Before I start this email, there is a .pdf attached hopefully.
You builders may want to grab this and save it as it was
hard for me to find and obtain.
You can buy the Skytronics type individual repair leads
as a single lead from Spruce and other places. That would
probably be a good way to go. They come nice and long
so then you can just chop them to the best length for
your routing. On my RV-10 I was able to use my
standard Left side harness. I wish I had the part number
but I don't have it handy. But, that would rely on
routing the wires the same way I did. With so much
variation in the way people do things, I would think that
your best bet is just making it custom yourself.
That also helps get rid of long lead times waiting for
a specific harness. I found the same thing when I needed
my IO-390 Harness. I don't know what's going on in the
industry but people don't seem to be stocking things
very much. My plan for harness replacement time is
to just buy the tools and build my own length replacement
leads as needed.
Oh, and I did work with a guy named Justin Phillips
at Quality Aircraft Accessories who was the person
who was able to get me a custom harness made.
Try him once. His email is jphillips and it's at
the domain of qaa.com. It was cheaper than buying
all 4 of the individual repair leads that I needed if
I wanted to do all 4 wires and make them look
identical.
I guess while I'm documenting it here, there was a guy
named Joe Logie at champion who also can get custom
slick stuff. joelogie is his email and it's at
champaero dot com.
Slick also makes a repair lead, just like Kelly
(Skytronics) does.
There are 2 part numbers I have:
M7502-72 3/4 SLICK SINGLE LEAD KIT 72" RED 08-13617 $156.75
M7502-60 3/4 SLICK SINGLE LEAD KIT 08-13619 $149.75
Also, to repair leads, here are some part numbers:
SLICK M7503 3/4 20 HARDWARE KIT 08-05870 $38.50
SLICK K3300 INSL SLV&WSHR KIT 08-01374 $13.50
SLICK M1498 ELECTRODE SCREW 08-02003 $4.75
M2929 SPRING 07-03363 $3.35
Here is part number info on the Kelly lead:
Kelly repair lead
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/harness08-13222-5.php?clickkey=68292
KELLY S100-72 72" 3/4 LEAD ASSY STRAIGHT 08-13224 $84.75
And I have this note on the tools:
The Slick Assembly Tool Kit is required to install all Slick Ignition
Harness Leads on all magneto harness caps and spark plug termination ends.
The complete kit includes: Pressing Tool, #72 Drill Bit, Pin Vise,
Stripping Tool, Spring Assembly Tool, and Shield Stripper.
Complete instructions for the use of this kit can be found in the Unison
Industries L-1178 Service Manual.
Tim
On 9/12/2016 10:49 AM, Albert wrote:
>
> Lenny: I have a Lightspeed electronic ignition on the right so I have only 1
> Slick mag 6351) on the left. Plugs are large barrells 3/4"). When I set
> this up I combined wires from a Skytronics set to get proper wire lengths
> since some of the wires were too short. So I have 6 unused wires left over.
> 3 of them are too short to be of any use but the other 3 would work to start
> a new harness. sing those wires as a start what I need at a minimum is 3
> wires at least 60", 50" and 41" long. If someone has a harness that they
> would be willing to sell I am very interested because every place I have
> looked has 2-3 week lead times. So far haven't found any on the shelf at
> local suppliers. Spruce list harnesses only by engine type/suffix so I don't
> know how long the wires are.
>
> Lenny, if you could measure your harnesses I would appreciate it. Do you
> know what suffix they were made for? I have found it very easy to
> move/replace wires around in the caps so that is not a problem. I wonder if
> somebody just makes up wires to order. I'd just order what I need and
> install them myself.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-10 N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
> Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 1:46 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Slick Ignition Harness
>
> --> <lenard@rapiddecision.com>
>
> I have a set of stock Slick harnesses on the shelf, I can measure them for
> you if you still need the lengths.
>
> Lenny
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460423#460423
>
>
Message 7
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That's the way I did it. I was thinking of getting the rear plugs in a
position so that it would be difficult to break them. Abby's interior
package had some room from plugs on the armrests, maybe lots others did
the same. I don't ride back there much but none have been broken. Up
front extra cords can be tucked into side pockets.
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Carr
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 8:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Headset jacks
Hi list,
I've been thinking of locating my front headset jacks on the outside
edges of the panel switch bar and the rear jacks at the forward edge of
the outboard "armrest" panels.
How did the jacks you installed work out? Are there any changes you
wish that you made prior to drilling?
Thanks for the help,
David
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Slick Ignition Harness |
Before I start this emailYou builders may want to grab this
and save it as it was hard for me to find and obtain.
http://www.myrv10.com/files/engines/Slick_Mags/Slick_Mag_L-1499B.pdf
You can buy the Skytronics type individual repair leads
as a single lead from Spruce and other places. That would
probably be a good way to go. They come nice and long
so then you can just chop them to the best length for
your routing. On my RV-10 I was able to use my
standard Left side harness. I wish I had the part number
but I don't have it handy. But, that would rely on
routing the wires the same way I did. With so much
variation in the way people do things, I would think that
your best bet is just making it custom yourself.
That also helps get rid of long lead times waiting for
a specific harness. I found the same thing when I needed
my IO-390 Harness. I don't know what's going on in the
industry but people don't seem to be stocking things
very much. My plan for harness replacement time is
to just buy the tools and build my own length replacement
leads as needed.
Oh, and I did work with a guy named Justin Phillips
at Quality Aircraft Accessories who was the person
who was able to get me a custom harness made.
Try him once. His email is jphillips and it's at
the domain of qaa.com. It was cheaper than buying
all 4 of the individual repair leads that I needed if
I wanted to do all 4 wires and make them look
identical.
I guess while I'm documenting it here, there was a guy
named Joe Logie at champion who also can get custom
slick stuff. joelogie is his email and it's at
champaero dot com.
Slick also makes a repair lead, just like Kelly
(Skytronics) does.
There are 2 part numbers I have:
M7502-72 3/4 SLICK SINGLE LEAD KIT 72" RED 08-13617 $156.75
M7502-60 3/4 SLICK SINGLE LEAD KIT 08-13619 $149.75
Also, to repair leads, here are some part numbers:
SLICK M7503 3/4 20 HARDWARE KIT 08-05870 $38.50
SLICK K3300 INSL SLV&WSHR KIT 08-01374 $13.50
SLICK M1498 ELECTRODE SCREW 08-02003 $4.75
M2929 SPRING 07-03363 $3.35
Here is part number info on the Kelly lead:
Kelly repair lead
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/harness08-13222-5.php?clickkey=68292
KELLY S100-72 72" 3/4 LEAD ASSY STRAIGHT 08-13224 $84.75
And I have this note on the tools:
The Slick Assembly Tool Kit is required to install all Slick Ignition
Harness Leads on all magneto harness caps and spark plug termination ends.
The complete kit includes: Pressing Tool, #72 Drill Bit, Pin Vise,
Stripping Tool, Spring Assembly Tool, and Shield Stripper.
Complete instructions for the use of this kit can be found in the Unison
Industries L-1178 Service Manual.
Tim
On 9/12/2016 10:49 AM, Albert wrote:
>
> Lenny: I have a Lightspeed electronic ignition on the right so I have only 1
> Slick mag 6351) on the left. Plugs are large barrells 3/4"). When I set
> this up I combined wires from a Skytronics set to get proper wire lengths
> since some of the wires were too short. So I have 6 unused wires left over.
> 3 of them are too short to be of any use but the other 3 would work to start
> a new harness. sing those wires as a start what I need at a minimum is 3
> wires at least 60", 50" and 41" long. If someone has a harness that they
> would be willing to sell I am very interested because every place I have
> looked has 2-3 week lead times. So far haven't found any on the shelf at
> local suppliers. Spruce list harnesses only by engine type/suffix so I don't
> know how long the wires are.
>
> Lenny, if you could measure your harnesses I would appreciate it. Do you
> know what suffix they were made for? I have found it very easy to
> move/replace wires around in the caps so that is not a problem. I wonder if
> somebody just makes up wires to order. I'd just order what I need and
> install them myself.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-10 N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
> Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 1:46 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Slick Ignition Harness
>
> --> <lenard@rapiddecision.com>
>
> I have a set of stock Slick harnesses on the shelf, I can measure them for
> you if you still need the lengths.
>
> Lenny
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460423#460423
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Headset jacks |
That's exactly what I recommend.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 12, 2016, at 12:34 PM, Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> Originally I had the jacks mounted on the switch panel. My other planes have
the jacks close to the same place. On the other planes I have to drape the cords
so they're out of the way for entry and egress. PITA for me. So, I placed
the jacks on the tunnel cover for both front and rear about where the hips
would sit so they'd be out of the way . I wired the switch panel jacks direct
to radios for emergency use in case the intercom went belly up.. Headsets will
hang from my overhead console so they would be out of the way for entrance and
egress. I'm not flying yet so I don't know if my thought process is good or
not.
> Linn
>
>> On 9/12/2016 11:57 AM, David Carr wrote:
>> Hi list,
>>
>> I've been thinking of locating my front headset jacks on the outside edges of
the panel switch bar and the rear jacks at the forward edge of the outboard
"armrest" panels.
>>
>> How did the jacks you installed work out? Are there any changes you wish that
you made prior to drilling?
>>
>> Thanks for the help,
>> David
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Slick Ignition Harness |
Albert,
Skytronics Right side
Part# A18-11AS-II / 4F14
T1 39.5
T3 35.5
T5 31.25
B2 48.25
B4 42.5
B6 39.75
Slick M-2956 RH
T1 38.5
T3 30.5
T5 22.75
B2 51
B4 44.75
B6 42
Slick M6027 LH
T2 42
T4 34
T6 28
B1 54.5
B3 48.75
B5 41.5
They all have about 100 hours on them. You are welcome to borrow the left side
Slick until you get yours sorted out. Looks like the lengths between the Slick
and Skytronics are all over the place, some leads are longer some are shorter.
When I ordered the Skytronics harnesses from QAA I just gave them the harness
number off the Slicks, looks like they just eyeballed the lengths.
Lenny
Albert Gardner wrote:
> Lenny: I have a Lightspeed electronic ignition on the right so I have only 1
> Slick mag 6351) on the left. Plugs are large barrells 3/4"). When I set
> this up I combined wires from a Skytronics set to get proper wire lengths
> since some of the wires were too short. So I have 6 unused wires left over.
> 3 of them are too short to be of any use but the other 3 would work to start
> a new harness. sing those wires as a start what I need at a minimum is 3
> wires at least 60", 50" and 41" long. If someone has a harness that they
> would be willing to sell I am very interested because every place I have
> looked has 2-3 week lead times. So far haven't found any on the shelf at
> local suppliers. Spruce list harnesses only by engine type/suffix so I don't
> know how long the wires are.
>
> Lenny, if you could measure your harnesses I would appreciate it. Do you
> know what suffix they were made for? I have found it very easy to
> move/replace wires around in the caps so that is not a problem. I wonder if
> somebody just makes up wires to order. I'd just order what I need and
> install them myself.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-10 N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> --
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460441#460441
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Headset jacks |
David,
My jacks are pretty much as you're describing. The fears work out fine but
I wish my front jacks were more towards the center. The cords can be a
hassle getting in and out.
No matter where you but them, be sure they're easy to see in flight without
having to crane around too much.
--Dave
On Monday, September 12, 2016, David Carr <junk@dcarr.org> wrote:
> Hi list,
>
> I've been thinking of locating my front headset jacks on the outside edges
> of the panel switch bar and the rear jacks at the forward edge of the
> outboard "armrest" panels.
>
> How did the jacks you installed work out? Are there any changes you wish
> that you made prior to drilling?
>
> Thanks for the help,
> David
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Slick Ignition Harness |
Thanks Tim. Since I had 3 unused but new leads long enough I bought 3 more
from Spruce plus the tool. Skygeek had it cheaper but Spruce3 matched the
price.
Albert
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Slick Ignition Harness
Before I start this email, there is a .pdf attached hopefully.
You builders may want to grab this and save it as it was hard for me to find
and obtain.
You can buy the Skytronics type individual repair leads as a single lead
from Spruce and other places. That would probably be a good way to go. They
come nice and long so then you can just chop them to the best length for
your routing. On my RV-10 I was able to use my
standard Left side harness. I wish I had the part number but I don't have it
handy. But, that would rely on routing the wires the same way I did. With
so much variation in the way people do things, I would think that your best
bet is just making it custom yourself.
That also helps get rid of long lead times waiting for a specific harness. I
found the same thing when I needed my IO-390 Harness. I don't know what's
going on in the industry but people don't seem to be stocking things very
much. My plan for harness replacement time is to just buy the tools and
build my own length replacement leads as needed.
Oh, and I did work with a guy named Justin Phillips at Quality Aircraft
Accessories who was the person who was able to get me a custom harness made.
Try him once. His email is jphillips and it's at the domain of qaa.com. It
was cheaper than buying all 4 of the individual repair leads that I needed
if I wanted to do all 4 wires and make them look identical.
I guess while I'm documenting it here, there was a guy named Joe Logie at
champion who also can get custom slick stuff. joelogie is his email and
it's at champaero dot com.
Slick also makes a repair lead, just like Kelly
(Skytronics) does.
There are 2 part numbers I have:
M7502-72 3/4 SLICK SINGLE LEAD KIT 72" RED 08-13617 $156.75
M7502-60 3/4 SLICK SINGLE LEAD KIT 08-13619 $149.75
Also, to repair leads, here are some part numbers:
SLICK M7503 3/4 20 HARDWARE KIT 08-05870 $38.50
SLICK K3300 INSL SLV&WSHR KIT 08-01374 $13.50
SLICK M1498 ELECTRODE SCREW 08-02003 $4.75
M2929 SPRING 07-03363 $3.35
Here is part number info on the Kelly lead:
Kelly repair lead
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/harness08-13222-5.php?clickkey
=68292
KELLY S100-72 72" 3/4 LEAD ASSY STRAIGHT 08-13224 $84.75
And I have this note on the tools:
The SlickR Assembly Tool Kit is required to install all Slick Ignition
Harness Leads on all magneto harness caps and spark plug termination ends.
The complete kit includes: Pressing Tool, #72 Drill Bit, Pin Vise, Stripping
Tool, Spring Assembly Tool, and Shield Stripper.
Complete instructions for the use of this kit can be found in the Unison
Industries L-1178 Service Manual.
Tim
On 9/12/2016 10:49 AM, Albert wrote:
>
> Lenny: I have a Lightspeed electronic ignition on the right so I have
> only 1 Slick mag 6351) on the left. Plugs are large barrells 3/4").
> When I set this up I combined wires from a Skytronics set to get
> proper wire lengths since some of the wires were too short. So I have 6
unused wires left over.
> 3 of them are too short to be of any use but the other 3 would work to
> start a new harness. sing those wires as a start what I need at a
> minimum is 3 wires at least 60", 50" and 41" long. If someone has a
> harness that they would be willing to sell I am very interested
> because every place I have looked has 2-3 week lead times. So far
> haven't found any on the shelf at local suppliers. Spruce list
> harnesses only by engine type/suffix so I don't know how long the wires
are.
>
> Lenny, if you could measure your harnesses I would appreciate it. Do
> you know what suffix they were made for? I have found it very easy to
> move/replace wires around in the caps so that is not a problem. I
> wonder if somebody just makes up wires to order. I'd just order what I
> need and install them myself.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-10 N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lenny Iszak
> Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 1:46 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Slick Ignition Harness
>
> --> <lenard@rapiddecision.com>
>
> I have a set of stock Slick harnesses on the shelf, I can measure them
> for you if you still need the lengths.
>
> Lenny
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460423#460423
>
>
Message 13
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Last week there were a few postings about the Cee Bailey's windscreen. I was
also curious if anyone has used the M.L. Skunkworks windscreen fairing and
what their thoughts are.? I like the looks of it personally and it would
seem to save some labor over fiber glassing..
<http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Windscreen_Fairings.html>
http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Windscreen_Fairings.html
Message 14
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Bryan,
I deleted all my windows from my Vans order and bought all from Cee Bailey, i
ncluding the windshield. I looked at that metal fairing from ML Blue Skunkw
orks, but decided it looked crude. Anyway, the fiberglass work at the base o
f the windshield was not a big deal. The actual layup is done one step. Fi
lling and sanding is more time consuming. Even with that aluminum base fair
ing you still have to glass in the other three edges.
Bruce Hoppe
Mobile: (517)703-4215
Sent from my iPad
> On Sep 12, 2016, at 7:49 PM, Bryan Wade <bwade@united.net> wrote:
>
> Last week there were a few postings about the Cee Bailey=99s windscr
een. I was also curious if anyone has used the M.L. Skunkworks windscreen fa
iring and what their thoughts are? I like the looks of it personall
y and it would seem to save some labor over fiber glassing.
>
>
> http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Windscreen_Fairings.html
>
>
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Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: 6 Cylinder P Mag |
Don't forget about the G3i or EFII for ignition options.
The G3i ignition uses your current magneto and adapts a MSD6 or MSD6AL ignit
ion box to it. It retains the magneto function if 12V is removed from the sy
stem and it provides a high energy electronic ignition when 12v is available
. Tom is a friend and provides great customer service.
www.g3ignition.com
The EFII by Robert Paisley can also utilized to replace a single Mag, both m
ags, and or the entire fuel injection / ignition system can be utilized. It i
s a modular system and can components can be added later if desired. Robert i
s also known for his stellar customer service and support.
www.flyefii.com
I am using the EFII system and love it. I have 2 alternators (1 belt driven a
nd 1 vacuum pad driven) for redundancy. During my runup, I only get a 10 rpm
drop when I shut off one coil pack at a time. Impressive performance. His s
ystems are used on many birds at the Reno Air Races.
Hope this helps
Justin
> On Sep 3, 2016, at 20:55, Albert <ibspud@roadrunner.com> wrote:
>
> Has anyone received a P Mag yet? Really interested in hearing how they wor
k. The 4 Cylinder version seems to be fine.
> Albert Gardner
> RV-10 N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
> PS: Wonder if they make an asbestos covered model for Arizona
>
Message 16
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We think the fiberglass is a much better look. The whole cabin top is fiberg
lass and the windows are all glued in, so making the fairing "permanent" fit
s well. The metal fairing says "I didn't think I could get the fiberglass on
e to look good" in my opinion.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 12, 2016, at 8:49 PM, Bryan Wade <bwade@united.net> wrote:
>
> Last week there were a few postings about the Cee Bailey=99s windscr
een. I was also curious if anyone has used the M.L. Skunkworks windscreen fa
iring and what their thoughts are? I like the looks of it personall
y and it would seem to save some labor over fiber glassing.
>
>
> http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Windscreen_Fairings.html
>
>
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