Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:43 AM - Re: Stitching Baffle Seals (Justin Jones)
2. 02:56 AM - Re: Windshield strut color? (dmaib@me.com)
3. 03:21 AM - Re: Stitching Baffle Seals (Ben Meyer)
4. 05:57 AM - Re: Windshield strut color? (johngoodman)
5. 07:43 AM - Re: Stitching Baffle Seals (Bill Watson)
6. 07:59 AM - Re: Stitching Baffle Seals (Rene)
7. 03:32 PM - Re: Windshield strut color? (Patrick Pulis)
8. 03:51 PM - Tyre Pressures (Patrick Pulis)
9. 04:40 PM - Re: Tyre Pressures (John MacCallum)
10. 04:50 PM - Re: Tyre Pressures (Carl Froehlich)
11. 05:01 PM - Accurate arm measurements for W&B (Dan Charrois)
12. 07:59 PM - Re: Tyre Pressures (Patrick Pulis)
13. 11:22 PM - Undercarriage Nylok Nuts (Patrick Pulis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Stitching Baffle Seals |
Phil,
If you have the Orange baffle seals, they are made of silicone. Get the Red RTV
and glue them together. It will hold if the surfaces are cleaned with isopropyl
or denatured alcohol prior to application. If you'd like to hold it together
mechanically, stitching with Dacron lacing tape or riveting with appropriately
sized washers on either side will work. Be sure to put silicone (red RTV looks
best) in between the seals before mechanically holding them together for an
air tight seal.
Justin
> On Sep 29, 2016, at 22:27, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I've got a couple of baffle seals that don't cooperate around my prop gov. And
since I just removed and replaced by MT gov, I'd like to go ahead and clean
up the baffle seals.
>
> Where two of my seals intersect, I'd like to bond them together. I've tried
pro-sealing them, but it didn't hold. So I need a mechanical bond and I'm considering
stitching them.
>
> Has anyone tried stitching them and if so, what material did you use for thread?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield strut color? |
Powder coated mine black to match black and tan interior. Control sticks are also
powder coated black and glare shield is painted flat black. Very happy with
the appearance. The only negative is that windshield strut gets very hot with
the aircraft sitting out in the sun. I usually use it to adjust my seat and it
can get uncomfortably hot to the touch.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460842#460842
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Stitching Baffle Seals |
Safety wire worked for me.
Ben
Sent from my iPhone
> On Sep 29, 2016, at 7:27 PM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I've got a couple of baffle seals that don't cooperate around my prop gov. And
since I just removed and replaced by MT gov, I'd like to go ahead and clean
up the baffle seals.
>
> Where two of my seals intersect, I'd like to bond them together. I've tried
pro-sealing them, but it didn't hold. So I need a mechanical bond and I'm considering
stitching them.
>
> Has anyone tried stitching them and if so, what material did you use for thread?
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield strut color? |
digidocs wrote:
> Simple question---what color is your windshield strut and how do you like it?
>
> Thanks!
> David
I lightly sanded mine and painted it flat black - just like my glare shield. Used
a rattle can. Been flying 5 years with it, and using it as a primary grip getting
in and out. Still looks great. I'd do it the same way again.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460846#460846
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Stitching Baffle Seals |
I'd second that on the silicone seals. After 5 years and 700+ hours they
are still almost like new including the high temp red/orange RTV. No
mechanical stiching required.
On 9/30/2016 5:39 AM, Justin Jones wrote:
>
> If you have the Orange baffle seals, they are made of silicone. Get the Red RTV
and glue them together. It will hold if the surfaces are cleaned with isopropyl
or denatured alcohol prior to application. If you'd like to hold it together
mechanically, stitching with Dacron lacing tape or riveting with appropriately
sized washers on either side will work. Be sure to put silicone (red RTV
looks best) in between the seals before mechanically holding them together for
an air tight seal.
>
> Justin
>
>> On Sep 29, 2016, at 22:27, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I've got a couple of baffle seals that don't cooperate around my prop gov.
And since I just removed and replaced by MT gov, I'd like to go ahead and clean
up the baffle seals.
>>
>> Where two of my seals intersect, I'd like to bond them together. I've tried
pro-sealing them, but it didn't hold. So I need a mechanical bond and I'm considering
stitching them.
>>
>> Has anyone tried stitching them and if so, what material did you use for thread?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Phil
>>
>>
>
>
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Stitching Baffle Seals |
I used safety wire in one or two of my corners.sealed with Red
RTV.
Rene'
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2016 8:27 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Stitching Baffle Seals
I've got a couple of baffle seals that don't cooperate around my prop
gov. And since I just removed and replaced by MT gov, I'd like to go
ahead and clean up the baffle seals.
Where two of my seals intersect, I'd like to bond them together. I've
tried pro-sealing them, but it didn't hold. So I need a mechanical
bond and I'm considering stitching them.
Has anyone tried stitching them and if so, what material did you use for
thread?
Thanks,
Phil
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield strut color? |
I've had my strut trimmed in brown leather to match the interior. The upholsterer
did an amazing job at hand stitching the leather along the length of the strut.
My wife wanted input into the interior upholstery as her attachment to the project.
It looks great.
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 30 Sep 2016, at 02:35, digidocs <junk@dcarr.org> wrote:
>
>
> Simple question---what color is your windshield strut and how do you like it?
>
> Thanks!
> David
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460827#460827
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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Could people please chime in as to what tyre pressures they've elected to operate
at for there main wheels and nosewheel, as I'm writing my pilots operating
handbook?
Warm regards and thanks.
Patrick
In a very wet, soggy and earlier this week, very dark South Australia!
Message 9
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G'day Patrick,
I gleaned this info from the recommendations from the Net from various
sources. Mostly I arrived at these
Pressures, I think, from the Dresser web site.
Nose Tyre 500-5 6 Ply 2.8 Bar / 40 lb
Main Tyre 15/600-6 6 Ply 2.9 Bar / 42 lb
Cheers
John MacCallum
VH-DUU
RV 10 # 41016
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis
Sent: Saturday, 1 October 2016 8:45 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Tyre Pressures
--> <rv10free2fly@yahoo.com.au>
Could people please chime in as to what tyre pressures they've elected to
operate at for there main wheels and nosewheel, as I'm writing my pilots
operating handbook?
Warm regards and thanks.
Patrick
In a very wet, soggy and earlier this week, very dark South Australia!
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Tyre Pressures |
Mains: 42 psig
Nose: 32 psig
Carl
> On Sep 30, 2016, at 6:45 PM, Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
>
>
> Could people please chime in as to what tyre pressures they've elected to operate
at for there main wheels and nosewheel, as I'm writing my pilots operating
handbook?
>
> Warm regards and thanks.
>
> Patrick
>
> In a very wet, soggy and earlier this week, very dark South Australia!
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Accurate arm measurements for W&B |
Hi everyone. I have something of a "heads up" for people (unless it's more of
a "heads up" for me, if I've done something wrong :-)
In comparing my W&B numbers to others who have published theirs, I realized that
many people seem to be using the arm measurement for the wheels as given by
Van's in their "Sample W&B" information (right: 124.44", left: 124.31", front:
50.44"). Since it's unlikely that everyone's measurements match Van's exactly
to the hundredth of an inch, I assume most people are just assuming that since
the RV-10 is designed so that a person can't help but build it right, Van's
numbers should be close enough to theirs.
But out of curiosity, I decided to measure mine, as accurately as possible, with
the door frame/fuselage longeron (Van's level datum line) perfectly level....
and I ended up with somewhat different measurements. On my RV-10, I measured
right: 123.07", left: 123.19", front: 50.32". The front wheel is pretty close
to the same place as Van's, but the rear mains are slightly more than an inch
different. I'm not sure why the difference is as big as it is - maybe Van's
measured theirs after the wheel struts had flexed a bit over time.... maybe
they measured their arms when the aircraft was not empty (which would also cause
the struts to flex and move the mains aft).... or maybe there is some tolerance
in parts.
But whatever the reason, I think it's probably important that when doing a W&B,
the weights and arms are measured for your particular aircraft - don't use the
weights for your aircraft but the arms from Van's example data. And it does
make a difference - using my weights and arms, I end up with an empty CG at 108.2".
Using my weights and Van's sample arms, I'd have an empty CG at 109.2".
An inch off in calculations of empty CG might be notable considering there
is only a 8.4" window in CG in the first place.
If anyone else has measured the arms to their mains and nose gear, I'd be interested
in hearing what numbers you came up with.
Dan
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Tyre Pressures |
Thanks Carl and John.
Does nosewheel tyre pressure influence wheel shimmy?
Warm regards
Patrick
> On 1 Oct 2016, at 09:17, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>
> Mains: 42 psig
> Nose: 32 psig
>
> Carl
>
>> On Sep 30, 2016, at 6:45 PM, Patrick Pulis <rv10free2fly@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Could people please chime in as to what tyre pressures they've elected to operate
at for there main wheels and nosewheel, as I'm writing my pilots operating
handbook?
>>
>> Warm regards and thanks.
>>
>> Patrick
>>
>> In a very wet, soggy and earlier this week, very dark South Australia!
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Undercarriage Nylok Nuts |
When I was at Oshkosh in 2015 I stopped to chat to a poor RV-10 pilot (sorry
I can't remember your name, however you had an English accent, so I'm assum
ing you weren't American, but I digress), who had experienced overheating of
his brakes while taxiing in after landing, to the point where the wheel fai
ring caught fire.
Suffice to say that the undercarriage as a burnt mess.
Considering the potential for overheating of the brakes, I am considering sw
apping all the Nylok nuts on the undercarriage and brakes with all-metal sto
p nuts.
Have others adopted a similar course of action as a contingency?
Is there any disadvantage of using the cadmium plated all-metal lock nuts?
Warm regards
Patrick
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