---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 09/30/16: 13 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:43 AM - Re: Stitching Baffle Seals (Justin Jones) 2. 02:56 AM - Re: Windshield strut color? (dmaib@me.com) 3. 03:21 AM - Re: Stitching Baffle Seals (Ben Meyer) 4. 05:57 AM - Re: Windshield strut color? (johngoodman) 5. 07:43 AM - Re: Stitching Baffle Seals (Bill Watson) 6. 07:59 AM - Re: Stitching Baffle Seals (Rene) 7. 03:32 PM - Re: Windshield strut color? (Patrick Pulis) 8. 03:51 PM - Tyre Pressures (Patrick Pulis) 9. 04:40 PM - Re: Tyre Pressures (John MacCallum) 10. 04:50 PM - Re: Tyre Pressures (Carl Froehlich) 11. 05:01 PM - Accurate arm measurements for W&B (Dan Charrois) 12. 07:59 PM - Re: Tyre Pressures (Patrick Pulis) 13. 11:22 PM - Undercarriage Nylok Nuts (Patrick Pulis) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:43:37 AM PST US From: Justin Jones Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stitching Baffle Seals Phil, If you have the Orange baffle seals, they are made of silicone. Get the Red RTV and glue them together. It will hold if the surfaces are cleaned with isopropyl or denatured alcohol prior to application. If you'd like to hold it together mechanically, stitching with Dacron lacing tape or riveting with appropriately sized washers on either side will work. Be sure to put silicone (red RTV looks best) in between the seals before mechanically holding them together for an air tight seal. Justin > On Sep 29, 2016, at 22:27, Phillip Perry wrote: > > I've got a couple of baffle seals that don't cooperate around my prop gov. And since I just removed and replaced by MT gov, I'd like to go ahead and clean up the baffle seals. > > Where two of my seals intersect, I'd like to bond them together. I've tried pro-sealing them, but it didn't hold. So I need a mechanical bond and I'm considering stitching them. > > Has anyone tried stitching them and if so, what material did you use for thread? > > Thanks, > Phil > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 02:56:10 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Windshield strut color? From: "dmaib@me.com" Powder coated mine black to match black and tan interior. Control sticks are also powder coated black and glare shield is painted flat black. Very happy with the appearance. The only negative is that windshield strut gets very hot with the aircraft sitting out in the sun. I usually use it to adjust my seat and it can get uncomfortably hot to the touch. -------- David Maib RV-10 #40559 New Smyrna Beach, FL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460842#460842 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:21:09 AM PST US From: Ben Meyer Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stitching Baffle Seals Safety wire worked for me. Ben Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 29, 2016, at 7:27 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > I've got a couple of baffle seals that don't cooperate around my prop gov. And since I just removed and replaced by MT gov, I'd like to go ahead and clean up the baffle seals. > > Where two of my seals intersect, I'd like to bond them together. I've tried pro-sealing them, but it didn't hold. So I need a mechanical bond and I'm considering stitching them. > > Has anyone tried stitching them and if so, what material did you use for thread? > > Thanks, > Phil > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:57:41 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Windshield strut color? From: "johngoodman" digidocs wrote: > Simple question---what color is your windshield strut and how do you like it? > > Thanks! > David I lightly sanded mine and painted it flat black - just like my glare shield. Used a rattle can. Been flying 5 years with it, and using it as a primary grip getting in and out. Still looks great. I'd do it the same way again. John -------- #40572 Phase One complete in 2011 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460846#460846 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:43:59 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Stitching Baffle Seals From: Bill Watson I'd second that on the silicone seals. After 5 years and 700+ hours they are still almost like new including the high temp red/orange RTV. No mechanical stiching required. On 9/30/2016 5:39 AM, Justin Jones wrote: > > If you have the Orange baffle seals, they are made of silicone. Get the Red RTV and glue them together. It will hold if the surfaces are cleaned with isopropyl or denatured alcohol prior to application. If you'd like to hold it together mechanically, stitching with Dacron lacing tape or riveting with appropriately sized washers on either side will work. Be sure to put silicone (red RTV looks best) in between the seals before mechanically holding them together for an air tight seal. > > Justin > >> On Sep 29, 2016, at 22:27, Phillip Perry wrote: >> >> I've got a couple of baffle seals that don't cooperate around my prop gov. And since I just removed and replaced by MT gov, I'd like to go ahead and clean up the baffle seals. >> >> Where two of my seals intersect, I'd like to bond them together. I've tried pro-sealing them, but it didn't hold. So I need a mechanical bond and I'm considering stitching them. >> >> Has anyone tried stitching them and if so, what material did you use for thread? >> >> Thanks, >> Phil >> >> > > --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:59:06 AM PST US From: "Rene" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Stitching Baffle Seals I used safety wire in one or two of my corners.sealed with Red RTV. Rene' 801-721-6080 From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry Sent: Thursday, September 29, 2016 8:27 PM Subject: RV10-List: Stitching Baffle Seals I've got a couple of baffle seals that don't cooperate around my prop gov. And since I just removed and replaced by MT gov, I'd like to go ahead and clean up the baffle seals. Where two of my seals intersect, I'd like to bond them together. I've tried pro-sealing them, but it didn't hold. So I need a mechanical bond and I'm considering stitching them. Has anyone tried stitching them and if so, what material did you use for thread? Thanks, Phil ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 03:32:53 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Windshield strut color? From: Patrick Pulis I've had my strut trimmed in brown leather to match the interior. The upholsterer did an amazing job at hand stitching the leather along the length of the strut. My wife wanted input into the interior upholstery as her attachment to the project. It looks great. Warm regards Patrick > On 30 Sep 2016, at 02:35, digidocs wrote: > > > Simple question---what color is your windshield strut and how do you like it? > > Thanks! > David > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=460827#460827 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 03:51:06 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Tyre Pressures From: Patrick Pulis Could people please chime in as to what tyre pressures they've elected to operate at for there main wheels and nosewheel, as I'm writing my pilots operating handbook? Warm regards and thanks. Patrick In a very wet, soggy and earlier this week, very dark South Australia! ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 04:40:31 PM PST US From: "John MacCallum" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Tyre Pressures G'day Patrick, I gleaned this info from the recommendations from the Net from various sources. Mostly I arrived at these Pressures, I think, from the Dresser web site. Nose Tyre 500-5 6 Ply 2.8 Bar / 40 lb Main Tyre 15/600-6 6 Ply 2.9 Bar / 42 lb Cheers John MacCallum VH-DUU RV 10 # 41016 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Patrick Pulis Sent: Saturday, 1 October 2016 8:45 AM Subject: RV10-List: Tyre Pressures --> Could people please chime in as to what tyre pressures they've elected to operate at for there main wheels and nosewheel, as I'm writing my pilots operating handbook? Warm regards and thanks. Patrick In a very wet, soggy and earlier this week, very dark South Australia! ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 04:50:23 PM PST US From: Carl Froehlich Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tyre Pressures Mains: 42 psig Nose: 32 psig Carl > On Sep 30, 2016, at 6:45 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote: > > > Could people please chime in as to what tyre pressures they've elected to operate at for there main wheels and nosewheel, as I'm writing my pilots operating handbook? > > Warm regards and thanks. > > Patrick > > In a very wet, soggy and earlier this week, very dark South Australia! > > > > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 05:01:11 PM PST US From: Dan Charrois Subject: RV10-List: Accurate arm measurements for W&B Hi everyone. I have something of a "heads up" for people (unless it's more of a "heads up" for me, if I've done something wrong :-) In comparing my W&B numbers to others who have published theirs, I realized that many people seem to be using the arm measurement for the wheels as given by Van's in their "Sample W&B" information (right: 124.44", left: 124.31", front: 50.44"). Since it's unlikely that everyone's measurements match Van's exactly to the hundredth of an inch, I assume most people are just assuming that since the RV-10 is designed so that a person can't help but build it right, Van's numbers should be close enough to theirs. But out of curiosity, I decided to measure mine, as accurately as possible, with the door frame/fuselage longeron (Van's level datum line) perfectly level.... and I ended up with somewhat different measurements. On my RV-10, I measured right: 123.07", left: 123.19", front: 50.32". The front wheel is pretty close to the same place as Van's, but the rear mains are slightly more than an inch different. I'm not sure why the difference is as big as it is - maybe Van's measured theirs after the wheel struts had flexed a bit over time.... maybe they measured their arms when the aircraft was not empty (which would also cause the struts to flex and move the mains aft).... or maybe there is some tolerance in parts. But whatever the reason, I think it's probably important that when doing a W&B, the weights and arms are measured for your particular aircraft - don't use the weights for your aircraft but the arms from Van's example data. And it does make a difference - using my weights and arms, I end up with an empty CG at 108.2". Using my weights and Van's sample arms, I'd have an empty CG at 109.2". An inch off in calculations of empty CG might be notable considering there is only a 8.4" window in CG in the first place. If anyone else has measured the arms to their mains and nose gear, I'd be interested in hearing what numbers you came up with. Dan --- Dan Charrois President, Syzygy Research & Technology Phone: 780-961-2213 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:59:55 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tyre Pressures From: Patrick Pulis Thanks Carl and John. Does nosewheel tyre pressure influence wheel shimmy? Warm regards Patrick > On 1 Oct 2016, at 09:17, Carl Froehlich wrote: > > > Mains: 42 psig > Nose: 32 psig > > Carl > >> On Sep 30, 2016, at 6:45 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote: >> >> >> Could people please chime in as to what tyre pressures they've elected to operate at for there main wheels and nosewheel, as I'm writing my pilots operating handbook? >> >> Warm regards and thanks. >> >> Patrick >> >> In a very wet, soggy and earlier this week, very dark South Australia! > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 11:22:34 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Undercarriage Nylok Nuts From: Patrick Pulis When I was at Oshkosh in 2015 I stopped to chat to a poor RV-10 pilot (sorry I can't remember your name, however you had an English accent, so I'm assum ing you weren't American, but I digress), who had experienced overheating of his brakes while taxiing in after landing, to the point where the wheel fai ring caught fire. Suffice to say that the undercarriage as a burnt mess. Considering the potential for overheating of the brakes, I am considering sw apping all the Nylok nuts on the undercarriage and brakes with all-metal sto p nuts. Have others adopted a similar course of action as a contingency? Is there any disadvantage of using the cadmium plated all-metal lock nuts? Warm regards Patrick ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.