Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:48 AM - Re: Another windscreen Q (johngoodman)
2. 05:57 AM - Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! (Bill Boyd)
3. 06:42 AM - Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! (dmaib@me.com)
4. 08:39 AM - Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! (Linn Walters)
5. 09:15 AM - Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! (Lenny Iszak)
6. 09:46 AM - Re: Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! (Linn Walters)
7. 09:47 AM - Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! (kearney)
8. 09:51 AM - Re: Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! (Tim Olson)
9. 01:09 PM - windshield service life? (David)
10. 01:16 PM - Plexus and Plexall (David)
11. 02:01 PM - Re: Plexus and Plexall (Tim Olson)
12. 03:20 PM - Re: Plexus and Plexall (Metrocast)
13. 05:19 PM - Re: windshield service life? ()
14. 05:57 PM - Re: Plexus and Plexall (Marcus Cooper)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Another windscreen Q |
I used an aluminum windshield fairing, instead of fiberglass. I really like it,
and it turned out great. Can't remember the name of the company I bought it from.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461300#461300
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
Disclaimer: I have some slowly seeping rivets on y 20year old 6, but have
not yet performed this repair. I have read about it and thought about it
quite a bit.
Pulling vacuum on the fuel tank is inherently risky, as atmospheric
pressure can distort and crease the tank if it should partially collapse.
It takes surprisingly little vacuum, I am told, to accomplish this.
Since the idea is to create a pressure differential across the leaking area
to migrate solvent and Loctite into the area, I believe a suitable and
completely safe alternative is to apply local higher pressure to the
outside of the tank, instead of pulling vacuum on the inside. A syringe
attached to a suction cup, or with the tip cut off to leave a straight
cylinder, ringed with a bead of RTV(cured) to allow a press-seal against
the tank skin, should suffice to apply gentle pressure. This should let
you push the acetone and the green Loctite in without risking any
structural damage. Pressure should only be needed for a few seconds, not
for the entire Loctite curing time. With a suitable seal on the hose end,
you could use the pressure side of your shop vac to accomplish this.
My opinion only, FWIW.
Bill B
On Thu, Oct 13, 2016 at 5:02 PM, Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>
> The only thing I've heard of to seal really small leaks is green Loctite.
> You need to clean the hole with acetone. Pull a small vacuum on the tank
> and suck the acetone through the hole .... the more the better ..... and
> then let that evaporate. Then apply the loctite so it get sucked into the
> hole.
> Linn
>
>
> On 10/13/2016 4:41 PM, kearney wrote:
>
>>
>> Hmmm
>>
>> There I said it!
>>
>> Anyway, over the past few months I have developed rivet line leaks in
>> both my QB tanks along the inboard line of fuel tank rivets on the tank
>> bottom. I am hoping that it is the rivets that are leaking and not between
>> the flange and the bottom tank skin. Is there something special about how
>> these inboard flanges are sealed that makes them prone to leaks.
>>
>> To date my only leaks have been on the rivets on the top of the tanks.
>>
>> If the leak(s) are between the skin and the flange, is there a good (and
>> simple) way to correct the problem?
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Les
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461241#461241
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
sportav8r(at)gmail.com wrote:
> Disclaimer: I have some slowly seeping rivets on y 20year old 6, but have not
yet performed this repair. I have read about it and thought about it quite a
bit.
>
> Pulling vacuum on the fuel tank is inherently risky, as atmospheric pressure
can distort and crease the tank if it should partially collapse. It takes surprisingly
little vacuum, I am told, to accomplish this.
>
>
> Since the idea is to create a pressure differential across the leaking area to
migrate solvent and Loctite into the area, I believe a suitable and completely
safe alternative is to apply local higher pressure to the outside of the tank,
instead of pulling vacuum on the inside. A syringe attached to a suction cup,
or with the tip cut off to leave a straight cylinder, ringed with a bead of
RTV(cured) to allow a press-seal against the tank skin, should suffice to apply
gentle pressure. This should let you push the acetone and the green Loctite
in without risking any structural damage. Pressure should only be needed for
a few seconds, not for the entire Loctite curing time. With a suitable seal on
the hose end, you could use the pressure side of your shop vac to accomplish
this.
>
>
>
[/quote]
This procedure has been used successfully. I first heard about it from Dan Landry
who successfully cured seeping rivets on his RV-6 tanks using a syringe as
you describe. He used Plio Bond instead of green loctite. I tried this on two
long time seeping rivets on my RV-10 last spring prior to the airplane being repainted.
It has been successful for me at this time. Airplane repainted in May
and so far, no more seeping on the offending rivets.
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461303#461303
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
Great thoughts Bill! The more options there are, the better the choice
that fits the circumstances. The vacuum method allows you to treat many
leaks simultaneously without damage if you're careful. A really slow
leak will take longer to see results.
Actually, a shop-vac loosely in the fuel filler generates enough
'suction' to get the liquid through the hole. If the drop(s) don't
disappear loosely fit a rag around the hose. The drawback is the noise.
A Mighty Vac hooked up to the vent line will work also. You'll run out
of gripping power before you pull enough vacuum to deform the tank.
Either way, if your method of choice starts to deform the tank ....
quit! That's too much and unnecessary. Work slowly and carefully.
Linn
On 10/15/2016 8:57 AM, Bill Boyd wrote:
> Disclaimer: I have some slowly seeping rivets on y 20year old 6, but
> have not yet performed this repair. I have read about it and thought
> about it quite a bit.
>
> Pulling vacuum on the fuel tank is inherently risky, as atmospheric
> pressure can distort and crease the tank if it should partially
> collapse. It takes surprisingly little vacuum, I am told, to
> accomplish this.
>
> Since the idea is to create a pressure differential across the leaking
> area to migrate solvent and Loctite into the area, I believe a
> suitable and completely safe alternative is to apply local higher
> pressure to the outside of the tank, instead of pulling vacuum on the
> inside. A syringe attached to a suction cup, or with the tip cut off
> to leave a straight cylinder, ringed with a bead of RTV(cured) to
> allow a press-seal against the tank skin, should suffice to apply
> gentle pressure. This should let you push the acetone and the green
> Loctite in without risking any structural damage. Pressure should only
> be needed for a few seconds, not for the entire Loctite curing time.
> With a suitable seal on the hose end, you could use the pressure side
> of your shop vac to accomplish this.
>
> My opinion only, FWIW.
>
> Bill B
>
> On Thu, Oct 13, 2016 at 5:02 PM, Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com
> <mailto:flying-nut@cfl.rr.com>> wrote:
>
> <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com <mailto:flying-nut@cfl.rr.com>>
>
> The only thing I've heard of to seal really small leaks is green
> Loctite. You need to clean the hole with acetone. Pull a small
> vacuum on the tank and suck the acetone through the hole .... the
> more the better ..... and then let that evaporate. Then apply the
> loctite so it get sucked into the hole.
> Linn
>
>
> On 10/13/2016 4:41 PM, kearney wrote:
>
> <mailto:kearney@shaw.ca>>
>
> Hmmm
>
> There I said it!
>
> Anyway, over the past few months I have developed rivet line
> leaks in both my QB tanks along the inboard line of fuel tank
> rivets on the tank bottom. I am hoping that it is the rivets
> that are leaking and not between the flange and the bottom
> tank skin. Is there something special about how these inboard
> flanges are sealed that makes them prone to leaks.
>
> To date my only leaks have been on the rivets on the top of
> the tanks.
>
> If the leak(s) are between the skin and the flange, is there
> a good (and simple) way to correct the problem?
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461241#461241
> <http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461241#461241>
>
>
> ===================================
> -List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ===================================
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
Whoaaa, hold that shop-vac! "a shop-vac loosely in the fuel filler" with fuel or
just fuel vapors in the tank is a surefire way to blow yourself up... as the
vapors travel right through the motor that sparks at the brushes.
Lenny
flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com wrote:
> Great thoughts Bill! The more options there are, the better the choice
that fits the circumstances. The vacuum method allows you to treat many
leaks simultaneously without damage if you're careful. A really slow leak
will take longer to see results.
>
> Actually, a shop-vac loosely in the fuel filler generates enough
'suction' to get the liquid through the hole. If the drop(s) don't disappear
loosely fit a rag around the hose. The drawback is the noise.
> A Mighty Vac hooked up to the vent line will work also. You'll run
out of gripping power before you pull enough vacuum to deform the tank.
Either way, if your method of choice starts to deform the tank .... quit!
That's too much and unnecessary. Work slowly and carefully.
> Linn
>
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461305#461305
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
First off, the blowing up shop vac just doesn't happen (myth busters
really tried hard to make it happen .... they loved blowing things up!)
.... and I give the RV-10 crowd enough intelligence to not work on a
tank with fuel in it. However, if you don't feel safe using the shop vac
then do things like Bill pointed out. YMMV!!!
IMHO,
Linn
On 10/15/2016 12:14 PM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> Whoaaa, hold that shop-vac! "a shop-vac loosely in the fuel filler" with fuel
or just fuel vapors in the tank is a surefire way to blow yourself up... as the
vapors travel right through the motor that sparks at the brushes.
>
> Lenny
>
>
> flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com wrote:
>> Great thoughts Bill! The more options there are, the better the choice
that fits the circumstances. The vacuum method allows you to treat many
leaks simultaneously without damage if you're careful. A really slow leak
will take longer to see results.
>>
>> Actually, a shop-vac loosely in the fuel filler generates enough
'suction' to get the liquid through the hole. If the drop(s) don't disappear
loosely fit a rag around the hose. The drawback is the noise.
>> A Mighty Vac hooked up to the vent line will work also. You'll
run out of gripping power before you pull enough vacuum to deform the
tank. Either way, if your method of choice starts to deform the tank ....
quit! That's too much and unnecessary. Work slowly and carefully.
>> Linn
>>
>>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461305#461305
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
Lenny
You are a spoil sport. I was looking forward to a big bang event!
Actually, if I was going to pull a vacuum, I would use a shop vac attached to my
compressor. On of those small compressed air vacs used when building.
I said "if" because I wouldn't try to pull a vacuum as too much negative pressure
would quickly collapse the tank - it wouldn't take much. I once say a pic
of a heavy walled refinery vessel that collapsed after a hydro test. The water
was allowed to drain but the relief valve didn't open so the draining water caused
a partial vacuum. Simple pressure physics took over and the vessel was
toast.
Now what I would be interested in is how to "inject" locktite between the inboard
skin and flange if that is what is leaking (rather than the flange rivets).
Perhaps RTVing a syringe on to the leaking portion of the seam.
Cheers
Les
[quote="Lenny Iszak"]Whoaaa, hold that shop-vac! "a shop-vac loosely in the fuel
filler" with fuel or just fuel vapors in the tank is a surefire way to blow
yourself up... as the vapors travel right through the motor that sparks at the
brushes.
Lenny
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=461306#461306
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: I Hate Leaking Fuel Tanks! |
Yeah, but, at least the explosion will be in the shop vac, so it
probably wouldn't destroy the plane unless the flames also got near the
filler opening and caused them to ignite too. So it would only cause
serious injury or death, but wouldn't total the airplane necessarily.
:)
tongue in cheek of course.
Tim
On 10/15/2016 11:14 AM, Lenny Iszak wrote:
>
> Whoaaa, hold that shop-vac! "a shop-vac loosely in the fuel filler" with fuel
or just fuel vapors in the tank is a surefire way to blow yourself up... as the
vapors travel right through the motor that sparks at the brushes.
>
> Lenny
>
>
> flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com wrote:
>> Great thoughts Bill! The more options there are, the better the choice
that fits the circumstances. The vacuum method allows you to treat many
leaks simultaneously without damage if you're careful. A really slow leak
will take longer to see results.
>>
>> Actually, a shop-vac loosely in the fuel filler generates enough
'suction' to get the liquid through the hole. If the drop(s) don't disappear
loosely fit a rag around the hose. The drawback is the noise.
>> A Mighty Vac hooked up to the vent line will work also. You'll
run out of gripping power before you pull enough vacuum to deform the tank.
Either way, if your method of choice starts to deform the tank ....
quit! That's too much and unnecessary. Work slowly and carefully.
>> Linn
>>
>>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | windshield service life? |
Having owned a C177RG for 29 years I recall only one windshield change.
Anyone have any idea about the service life of the windshield as provided by
Vans for the RV10? Obviously it will be a pain to replace.
David McNeill
N46007 8 years and 1100tt
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Plexus and Plexall |
I bought a case of Plexus back in 2007 for about $60 ($7 per can). The
current price is a minimum of $15 per can and can range to $20+. I found 37
Plexall at $7 per larger can and going to test it.
David McNeill
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Plexus and Plexall |
There is a two pack of cleaner plus protectant that works very well from Avi
ation labs. I pick it up at Oshkosh every year. It comes to about five dolla
rs a can and works better than plexus. Usually they are in the south east ha
ngar. The cleaner works very well for removing bugs and everything else. It
's worth a shot before anyone stocks up on a case of anything else.
Tim
> On Oct 15, 2016, at 3:15 PM, David <dlm34077@cox.net> wrote:
>
> I bought a case of Plexus back in 2007 for about $60 ($7 per can). The cur
rent price is a minimum of $15 per can and can range to $20+. I found 37 Ple
xall at $7 per larger can and going to test it.
>
> David McNeill
>
>
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Plexus and Plexall |
I use LP Aero plastics
Got good reviews on aviation consumer
Alan
n668g
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 15, 2016, at 5:00 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> There is a two pack of cleaner plus protectant that works very well from A
viation labs. I pick it up at Oshkosh every year. It comes to about five dol
lars a can and works better than plexus. Usually they are in the south east h
angar. The cleaner works very well for removing bugs and everything else. I
t's worth a shot before anyone stocks up on a case of anything else.
> Tim
>
>> On Oct 15, 2016, at 3:15 PM, David <dlm34077@cox.net> wrote:
>>
>> I bought a case of Plexus back in 2007 for about $60 ($7 per can). The cu
rrent price is a minimum of $15 per can and can range to $20+. I found 37 Pl
exall at $7 per larger can and going to test it.
>>
>> David McNeill
>>
>>
>>
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> www.avast.com
>>
>>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: windshield service life? |
A lot of it depends on how you treat it. Keep it hangared and clean,
and it=99ll last a long time. The windscreen on my RV-6 is 15
years old and in excellent condition. I=99d expect it to go
another 15 years, easily.
From: David
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2016 4:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: windshield service life?
Having owned a C177RG for 29 years I recall only one windshield change.
Anyone have any idea about the service life of the windshield as
provided by Vans for the RV10? Obviously it will be a pain to replace.
David McNeill
N46007 8 years and 1100tt
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus
software.
www.avast.com
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Plexus and Plexall |
Amazon had Plexall at $14.95 for a 16oz spray bottle. https://www.amazon.co
m/gp/aw/d/B01EM5J9T6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476579125&sr=8-1&pi
=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=plexall&dpPl=1&dpID=41SFzC1jMHL&ref=
plSrch
Marcus
> On Oct 15, 2016, at 5:00 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> There is a two pack of cleaner plus protectant that works very well from A
viation labs. I pick it up at Oshkosh every year. It comes to about five dol
lars a can and works better than plexus. Usually they are in the south east h
angar. The cleaner works very well for removing bugs and everything else. I
t's worth a shot before anyone stocks up on a case of anything else.
> Tim
>
>> On Oct 15, 2016, at 3:15 PM, David <dlm34077@cox.net> wrote:
>>
>> I bought a case of Plexus back in 2007 for about $60 ($7 per can). The cu
rrent price is a minimum of $15 per can and can range to $20+. I found 37 Pl
exall at $7 per larger can and going to test it.
>>
>> David McNeill
>>
>>
>>
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> www.avast.com
>>
>>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|