Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:06 PM - Another Source - Heavy duty gas struts (kearney)
2. 03:46 PM - Slick 6300 Series Mag Timing (made easy) (Doc)
3. 04:08 PM - Re: Slick 6300 Series Mag Timing (made easy) (Jesse Saint)
4. 04:12 PM - Re: Slick 6300 Series Mag Timing (made easy) (Carl Froehlich)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Another Source - Heavy duty gas struts |
Hi
My hanger mate finally shamed me into replacing my door gas struts that would auto
close when open.
When googling suppliers I came across a Canadian company who made drop in replacements
for the Van struts. The cost was $30CDN ($22.50 USD) each plus shipping.
I had them in 3 days from order. The company is LS Technologies (www.lstechnologies.ca) and can be reached at (306) 683-5000. I was speaking with Nolan Fehr who was most helpful.
Below is the part # label showing what I ordered. They are 600N struts that hold
my heavy door door up quite nicely - the end of stroke dampening is excellent.
Cheers
Les
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=462114#462114
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_5931_844.jpg
Message 2
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| Subject: | Slick 6300 Series Mag Timing (made easy) |
Slick 6300 Mags ohm Lycoming D4A5 IO-540 engines are driven by a
pair of dogs 180 degrees apart. The dogs fit into (2) slots in the
engine magneto drive shaft. The mag will fit on the engine magneto
mount only one of two ways, 180 degrees apart.
Before removing the mag(s) take a center punch or felt marker and
mark adjoining places on the mag and its mounting bracket. This will
give you a nice reference when you put the mag back on the engine. Make
note of what position the distributor cap is on the back of the mag.
Remove it with a T20 Torx tip and 1/4" wrench. It has to be put back on
the mag in the same relative position (It will fit in any of (3) 120
degree positions).
Make sure the ignition switch is off. Remove the number one
cylinder plug and turn the prop in its normal direction placing your
thumb over the spark plug hole until air comes out. The piston is on
the compression stroke approaching TDC. Timing marks are on the back
side of the starter ring gear plate and or on the front side of the ring
gear plate. The back side marks align with the top split in the crank
case and the front side marks align with a hole in the starter (see
Lycoming's service manual).
Turn the prop until 25 degrees BTC aligns with either reference.
To tell what 180 degree position the mag shaft needs to be in when
putting the mag back on the engine, poke a timing pin (a number 12 ga
copper wire works well) in the "L" hole in the distributor block. You
will note that the "L" hole and "R" holes are 180 degrees apart. There
is an
"X" hole between the "L" and "R" holes for a laser setting of the timing.
Turn the mag clockwise (looking at the engine side of the
mag--opposite to the left hand rotation of the mag) while gently pushing
the timing pin in the hole. The timing pin will drop down into a hole
in the distributor gear preventing the mag shaft from turning further.
Be careful not to damage the gear by turning the mag shaft too hard
against the stop. This places the mag shaft in the right 180 degree
position for timing the mag. The marks (center punch or felt marker)
will let you put the mag back on the engine close to its original timed
position. You can finish timing the mag with a timing light, buzz box,
ohm meter, etc.
Remove the timing pin. Put the mag back on the engine taking care
not to turn the mag shaft so much that it would be 180 degrees out of
the timing pin position you determined. Make sure the black hard rubber
blocks in the engine mag gear slots didn't come out when the mag was
removed. You can put them back in with a little grease to hold them in
place.
Gently snug up the mounting blocks and nuts on the mag to hold it
from turning while you check the timing. The points open at 25 degrees
BTC. Set the timing by gently turning the mag. Turning the mag into
its left hand rotation (counter clockwise looking at the back) advances
the time. Clockwise reduces the time.
Check the timing by removing the ignition wire from the P-lead and
connecting your timing device to the P-terminal of the mag. Make sure
the ignition switch is in the "off" position so you can't have a hot
mag. You can time the mag with an ohm meter. The meter will read a few
ohms and then increase an ohm or two when the points "open". It will
not go to infinity, etc. as one might expect. Check the timing either
side of 25 degrees BTC by bumping the propeller back and forth while
watching your ohm meter, buzz box, timing light, etc. Once you think it
is timed, rotate the prop two full revolutions and check the timing
again. If the timing is right, tighten the mag mounting nuts and check
the timing one last time. Reassemble the mag, distributor cap, ignition
wire, spark plug, etc.
If the engine will not start or will not run on either mag, the
mag(s) are 180 degrees out of time.
You can get specific mag repairs and internal mag adjustment
information from the Slick Overhaul Manual.
Doc RV10 #41087 N123CV
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Slick 6300 Series Mag Timing (made easy) |
I agree with most of this except "It has to be put back on the mag in the same
relative position (It will fit in any of (3) 120 degree positions)." All the mags
I have installed the harness cap can only fit in one position.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 6, 2016, at 6:46 PM, Doc <docclv@windstream.net> wrote:
>
> It has to be put back on the mag in the same relative position (It will fit in
any of (3) 120 degree positions).
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Slick 6300 Series Mag Timing (made easy) |
The RV-10 is the first airplane I've owned with mags - and reading stuff like this
I pray it will be the last. Just turned 400 hrs on the from the factory Slick
Mags and keeping my fingers crossed that Brad at pMag sends me the new six
cylinder ignitions before I need to do the 500 hour check.
Carl
> On Nov 6, 2016, at 6:46 PM, Doc <docclv@windstream.net> wrote:
>
>
> Slick 6300 Mags ohm Lycoming D4A5 IO-540 engines are driven by a pair of
dogs 180 degrees apart. The dogs fit into (2) slots in the engine magneto drive
shaft. The mag will fit on the engine magneto mount only one of two ways,
180 degrees apart.
>
> Before removing the mag(s) take a center punch or felt marker and mark adjoining
places on the mag and its mounting bracket. This will give you a nice
reference when you put the mag back on the engine. Make note of what position
the distributor cap is on the back of the mag. Remove it with a T20 Torx tip
and 1/4" wrench. It has to be put back on the mag in the same relative position
(It will fit in any of (3) 120 degree positions).
>
> Make sure the ignition switch is off. Remove the number one cylinder plug
and turn the prop in its normal direction placing your thumb over the spark
plug hole until air comes out. The piston is on the compression stroke approaching
TDC. Timing marks are on the back side of the starter ring gear plate and
or on the front side of the ring gear plate. The back side marks align with
the top split in the crank case and the front side marks align with a hole in
the starter (see Lycoming's service manual).
>
> Turn the prop until 25 degrees BTC aligns with either reference.
>
> To tell what 180 degree position the mag shaft needs to be in when putting
the mag back on the engine, poke a timing pin (a number 12 ga copper wire works
well) in the "L" hole in the distributor block. You will note that the "L"
hole and "R" holes are 180 degrees apart. There is an
> "X" hole between the "L" and "R" holes for a laser setting of the timing.
>
> Turn the mag clockwise (looking at the engine side of the mag--opposite to
the left hand rotation of the mag) while gently pushing the timing pin in the
hole. The timing pin will drop down into a hole in the distributor gear preventing
the mag shaft from turning further. Be careful not to damage the gear
by turning the mag shaft too hard against the stop. This places the mag shaft
in the right 180 degree position for timing the mag. The marks (center punch
or felt marker) will let you put the mag back on the engine close to its original
timed position. You can finish timing the mag with a timing light, buzz
box, ohm meter, etc.
>
> Remove the timing pin. Put the mag back on the engine taking care not to
turn the mag shaft so much that it would be 180 degrees out of the timing pin
position you determined. Make sure the black hard rubber blocks in the engine
mag gear slots didn't come out when the mag was removed. You can put them back
in with a little grease to hold them in place.
>
> Gently snug up the mounting blocks and nuts on the mag to hold it from turning
while you check the timing. The points open at 25 degrees BTC. Set the
timing by gently turning the mag. Turning the mag into its left hand rotation
(counter clockwise looking at the back) advances the time. Clockwise reduces
the time.
>
> Check the timing by removing the ignition wire from the P-lead and connecting
your timing device to the P-terminal of the mag. Make sure the ignition switch
is in the "off" position so you can't have a hot mag. You can time the
mag with an ohm meter. The meter will read a few ohms and then increase an ohm
or two when the points "open". It will not go to infinity, etc. as one might
expect. Check the timing either side of 25 degrees BTC by bumping the propeller
back and forth while watching your ohm meter, buzz box, timing light, etc.
Once you think it is timed, rotate the prop two full revolutions and check the
timing again. If the timing is right, tighten the mag mounting nuts and check
the timing one last time. Reassemble the mag, distributor cap, ignition wire,
spark plug, etc.
>
> If the engine will not start or will not run on either mag, the mag(s) are
180 degrees out of time.
>
> You can get specific mag repairs and internal mag adjustment information
from the Slick Overhaul Manual.
>
> Doc RV10 #41087 N123CV
>
>
>
>
>
>
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