Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:25 AM - Re: Loehle aircraft and airplane paint (Bill Watson)
2. 06:51 AM - Re: Max RPM on D4A5 Lycoming (Bill Watson)
3. 06:52 AM - Hole deburring tool (whodja)
4. 06:53 AM - Re: Loehle aircraft and airplane paint (Linn Walters)
5. 04:06 PM - Re: Grease guns (Tim Olson)
6. 04:32 PM - Re: Grease guns (Kevin Belue)
7. 04:34 PM - Filtered Air Box options (Carlos Trigo)
8. 04:34 PM - Re: Loehle aircraft and airplane paint (Gautier, Thomas N (3262))
9. 04:53 PM - Re: Filtered Air Box options (Carl Froehlich)
10. 04:58 PM - Re: Grease guns (Tim Olson)
11. 05:30 PM - Re: Filtered Air Box options (Jesse Saint)
12. 05:33 PM - Re: Filtered Air Box options (Phillip Perry)
13. 06:22 PM - Re: Filtered Air Box options (Jesse Saint)
14. 06:46 PM - Re: Filtered Air Box options (John Miller)
15. 06:57 PM - Re: Filtered Air Box options (Carl Froehlich)
16. 09:00 PM - Re: Filtered Air Box options (Dan Charrois)
17. 09:02 PM - Re: Filtered Air Box options (Lenny Iszak)
18. 10:14 PM - Anything to delete from baffle kit? (David Carr)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Loehle aircraft and airplane paint |
I used Loehle's fiberglass filler and liked it. Used different products
for the rest of the paint job.
Slightly OT but consider this; There are lot's of very good aircraft and
non-aircraft coating systems out there with many different
characteristics. Whatever you choose, try to find a local distributor
that you can buy through, but more important, one that can support you
through the paint process. I found that a Dupont distributor that was
within driving distance was invaluable. I also befriended a neighbor
who owned a truck paint shop. Neither knew beans about aircraft but
they did know paint - which was the perfect complement for this first
time painter. Sometimes I drove there more than once a day. I found
learning to paint an iterative process that benefited from some local
support. If lucky, you can use their curiosity about your project to get
them to teach you a bit about their industry.
(After some post-build fiberglass work where I used Prestec's polyester
filler, I'm thinking I should have used that for most of my fill work -
*has anyone else used Prestec on the '10? *The stuff is a quantum
improvement over everything else I've used in terms of ease of use and
effectiveness but don't know if suitable for the '10 top.)
Happy Finishing!
On 12/2/2016 12:28 PM, Gautier, Thomas N (3262) wrote:
> RV-10ers,
>
> After some years of building and lurking on the list I am ready to
> paint my 10. I have been using Loehle Aircraft primers for the
> fiberglass parts and I would like to do the same for painting the
> metal. However I have been unsuccessful in contacting Loehle Aircraft
> by telephone nor e-mail after repeated attempts over the last two
> weeks. Does anyone know if something has happened to Loehle Aircraft?
>
> Also, do you listers have suggestions (of course you do) for a
> different, easily usable paint system in case I cant get more Loehle
> material?
>
> Regards,
> Nick Gautier
> N363TG reserved
---
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| Subject: | Re: Max RPM on D4A5 Lycoming |
Yes, 2700. I have the stock setup as well.
I can't be specific here but my very experienced and totally 'anal' Tech
Counselor, who I have immense respect for, identified an issue with the
throttle assembly during prep for the first starts and flight. He
considered it important enough to insist that we drill a new hole in the
throttle arm so that the throw was adequate (I was not happy with such a
mod to the stock Vans setup but he insisted).
I thought it was a low RPM issue but I know that a new hole in the arm
would change the entire range - that's as much as I can say with any
actual understanding. It performed perfectly after that slight mod -
low idle to 2700 though I recall making a small adjustment at the
governor. While I have to assume it was something specific to my build
- it was all stock from my perspective.
So, the stock setup is not dead nuts perfect.
Background - my TC inspected my work annually or as requested and seemed
to be satisfied enough with this first time builder's efforts to leave
me alone. He NEVER put hands on or insisted on changes EXCEPT for the
stock throttle linkage. I never completely understood the problem but
he insisted and I knew enough to follow. He drilled the hole.
Bill "hope that helps a bit" Watson
On 12/3/2016 5:58 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Actually the redline is 2700, NOT 2750. The last 125 rpm only get you
> from 250 to 260 hp.
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
> On Sat, Dec 3, 2016 at 1:26 PM, Doc <docclv@windstream.net
> <mailto:docclv@windstream.net>> wrote:
>
> <mailto:docclv@windstream.net>>
>
> Carlos: You are right. The D4A5 is rated at 260hp at 2750rpm. I
> had the same problem with the engine reving to only 2500 rpm with
> the initial Hartzel governor Van's sent. We tried adjusting the
> stop on the governor, etc. to no avail. I finally checked what
> governor was recommended for a Hartzel prop (in our case) and
> found out Van's sent the wrong governor! Make sure you have a
> S-1-32 governor. Doc N123CV #41087
> ===================================
> br> fts!)
> r> > /www.aeroelectric.com" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> w.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> p.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
> " rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ===================================
> -List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
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> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ===================================
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> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
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| Subject: | Hole deburring tool |
I had a very small deburring tool. I'm looking for a source to by another one.
I've checked the usual sites. Unfortunately I think it came with tools I bought
from a builder years ago. It was very short and great for small spaces. Any
recommendations are greatly appreciated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463669#463669
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| Subject: | Re: Loehle aircraft and airplane paint |
Bill has good advice .... I went with Sherwin Williams because there was
a local automotive paint store. I could take a piece that I'd painted
and wasn't happy with the results to the store and received advice that
helped improve my painting. I also had to deviate from the info sheets
to really thin the paint to get a much better flow. Friends that
painted cars helped also. I had a Harbor Freight paint gun that I was
spraying everything with. It was suggested to use one gun for primer
and another for color. Big improvement. $125 Astro paint gun was well
worth the money.
As for the fiberglass ..... all the FG parts were garbage. Just fixing
the parts should qualify for the 50% rule. I used UV smoothprime from
PolyFiber on all the FG parts .... spruce carries it. My 'painting'
steps were grinding/sanding, smoothprime, sanding, (sometimes multiple
coats), Sherwin Williams primer and then color top coat.
Just like riveting, the more I painted the better the results.
Linn
On 12/4/2016 9:25 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
> I used Loehle's fiberglass filler and liked it. Used different
> products for the rest of the paint job.
>
> Slightly OT but consider this; There are lot's of very good aircraft
> and non-aircraft coating systems out there with many different
> characteristics. Whatever you choose, try to find a local distributor
> that you can buy through, but more important, one that can support you
> through the paint process. I found that a Dupont distributor that was
> within driving distance was invaluable. I also befriended a neighbor
> who owned a truck paint shop. Neither knew beans about aircraft but
> they did know paint - which was the perfect complement for this first
> time painter. Sometimes I drove there more than once a day. I found
> learning to paint an iterative process that benefited from some local
> support. If lucky, you can use their curiosity about your project to
> get them to teach you a bit about their industry.
>
> (After some post-build fiberglass work where I used Prestec's
> polyester filler, I'm thinking I should have used that for most of my
> fill work - *has anyone else used Prestec on the '10? *The stuff is a
> quantum improvement over everything else I've used in terms of ease of
> use and effectiveness but don't know if suitable for the '10 top.)
>
> Happy Finishing!
>
> On 12/2/2016 12:28 PM, Gautier, Thomas N (3262) wrote:
>> RV-10ers,
>>
>> After some years of building and lurking on the list I am ready
>> to paint my 10. I have been using Loehle Aircraft primers for the
>> fiberglass parts and I would like to do the same for painting the
>> metal. However I have been unsuccessful in contacting Loehle Aircraft
>> by telephone nor e-mail after repeated attempts over the last two
>> weeks. Does anyone know if something has happened to Loehle Aircraft?
>>
>> Also, do you listers have suggestions (of course you do) for a
>> different, easily usable paint system in case I cant get more Loehle
>> material?
>>
>> Regards,
>> Nick Gautier
>> N363TG reserved
>
>
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Message 5
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Just closing the loop on this grease gun thread...
A couple days ago I received my Lincoln 1134 Heavy Duty Grease
Gun. It seems to be well made, with a nicer plunger than my
old one...not extremely better, but a little nicer. Otherwise,
it really isn't a big change from my old gun. Today I tried to
load my Aeroshell 6 into it and nope, it didn't work either.
Even after purging the air out of it.
So I got irritated and grabbed a brand new tube of Aeroshell 6
even though mine was not even half used. Right away I could
tell that this grease was not as thick as my old grease. It was
vastly different, and much more "oily" if that makes sense.
I cleaned out the old Aeroshell 6 that I tried to load in the
gun and stuck in the fresh tube. That stuff pumped out ok
after purging out the air. So, I probably didn't need to
spend $35 on a new gun...my old one would have worked just
fine. I just had crappy grease. Now I feel a bit bad that
I just shot 6 pumps into each side of my RV-10 prop on that
old grease. Oh well, hopefully it'll work its way around and
still be OK. Maybe after a few hours I'll throw a couple
more pumps in of the new stuff.
For my old gun, I cleaned it out and loaded up a fresh
tube of the grease that I'm using for wheel bearings and
nose swivel. There really aren't too many other places on
the plane that need grease, other than the nose gear
hinge points.
I'll probably put pictures on my website some day of
the guns, but, right now that's back burner for me.
I don't know if Aeroshell 6 goes bad over time, but I'd
encourage you all to make sure that if your gun doesn't
pump it anymore, you just get a fresh tube. I'm not too
happy I even tried to use that old stuff now.
Tim
On 11/28/2016 10:12 PM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> I fought the same problem for years - couldn't reliably burp all the air
> out of the gun, so it would stop pumping.
>
> Then somebody showed me that it is possible (at least on my gun, I
> understand this is a common feature) to turn the plunger handle to just
> the right location so it will engage with the grease puck, allowing the
> operator to push on the end of the plunger handle and apply extra force
> to the grease column. Then you can operate the lever (or use the air
> burp fitting, if so equipped) to get a nice air-free column of grease
> flowing.
>
> In practice: rotate the plunger handle a little, push on it, see if
> there is resistance. If not, turn more and try again. Repeat until the
> plunger handle is locked to the grease puck.
>
> Tim
>
Message 6
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When I leave Aeroshell grease in the gun, the spring pressure causes the oil to
run out of the grease, making it drier. Now I always take the handle that keeps
pressure against the grease and pull it back and lock it so it takes the pressure
off the grease. This helps keep the oil in it so it doesn't dry out and
get thicker.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 4, 2016, at 6:05 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
>
> Just closing the loop on this grease gun thread...
>
> A couple days ago I received my Lincoln 1134 Heavy Duty Grease
> Gun. It seems to be well made, with a nicer plunger than my
> old one...not extremely better, but a little nicer. Otherwise,
> it really isn't a big change from my old gun. Today I tried to
> load my Aeroshell 6 into it and nope, it didn't work either.
> Even after purging the air out of it.
>
> So I got irritated and grabbed a brand new tube of Aeroshell 6
> even though mine was not even half used. Right away I could
> tell that this grease was not as thick as my old grease. It was
> vastly different, and much more "oily" if that makes sense.
> I cleaned out the old Aeroshell 6 that I tried to load in the
> gun and stuck in the fresh tube. That stuff pumped out ok
> after purging out the air. So, I probably didn't need to
> spend $35 on a new gun...my old one would have worked just
> fine. I just had crappy grease. Now I feel a bit bad that
> I just shot 6 pumps into each side of my RV-10 prop on that
> old grease. Oh well, hopefully it'll work its way around and
> still be OK. Maybe after a few hours I'll throw a couple
> more pumps in of the new stuff.
>
> For my old gun, I cleaned it out and loaded up a fresh
> tube of the grease that I'm using for wheel bearings and
> nose swivel. There really aren't too many other places on
> the plane that need grease, other than the nose gear
> hinge points.
>
> I'll probably put pictures on my website some day of
> the guns, but, right now that's back burner for me.
>
> I don't know if Aeroshell 6 goes bad over time, but I'd
> encourage you all to make sure that if your gun doesn't
> pump it anymore, you just get a fresh tube. I'm not too
> happy I even tried to use that old stuff now.
>
> Tim
>
>
>> On 11/28/2016 10:12 PM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> I fought the same problem for years - couldn't reliably burp all the air
>> out of the gun, so it would stop pumping.
>>
>> Then somebody showed me that it is possible (at least on my gun, I
>> understand this is a common feature) to turn the plunger handle to just
>> the right location so it will engage with the grease puck, allowing the
>> operator to push on the end of the plunger handle and apply extra force
>> to the grease column. Then you can operate the lever (or use the air
>> burp fitting, if so equipped) to get a nice air-free column of grease
>> flowing.
>>
>> In practice: rotate the plunger handle a little, push on it, see if
>> there is resistance. If not, turn more and try again. Repeat until the
>> plunger handle is locked to the grease puck.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Filtered Air Box options |
In the Van's manual, there are 2 things that are optional :
- the FAB box drain tube, and
- the Filter Bypass door
Can you please tell if you chose, or not, to install both or any of these options,
and the reasons why?
Regards
Carlos
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Loehle aircraft and airplane paint |
Vernon and Linn,
Thanks for the info. I am looking around at alternate paint systems, tho
ugh I was happy with the results I got with Loehle on my fiberglass.
John Miller (thanks, John) offered to look in on Loehle to see what=92s
up. So perhaps we will know the whole story soon.
Nick Gautier
N363TG reserved
On Sat, Dec 3, 2016 at 9:06 AM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com<
mailto:vernon.franklin@gmail.com>> wrote
Time: 09:05:47 AM PST US
From: Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com<mailto:vernon.franklin@gma
il.com>>
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Loehle aircraft and airplane paint
I placed an order with Sandy at Loehle back in September. I received
everything but my Wonderfill, it was marked as backordered.
I tried contacting them in October and November to find out where my order
was, and never could get in touch with anyone.
My gut tells me they have just quietly shut the doors, and not notified
their customers.
I have used their product to completely prep and prime the plane. I am not
to happy with it, as it orange peeled pretty much the entire project. It
is going to require some elbow grease to smooth things out before I paint.
But I want to finish the plane and get in the air for a year or so before I
paint, in case I want to do any post-build modifications.
I am not sure what you are needing at this point, but I found a good
replacement for Wonderfill was Dolphin Glaze. Takes a little more sanding,
but fills the pinholes, scratches, and imperfections a little easier than
bondo. Here
<https://www.amazon.com/U-Pol-0714-Self-Leveling-Polyester-Finishing/dp/B00
38D8KXU>
is
what I used to finish things up, my local paint supplier carries it for
around $10.
I have played with some paint, I decided to go with what Vans uses; Valspar
852 Polyurethane. This is a fantastic product, and looks great, see the
metallic blue on my pants and spinner. When I finally decide to paint the
whole plane, this is what I will be going with.
Attaching an image of what things look like right now.
Good luck!
Vernon
[image: Inline image 1]
On Fri, Dec 2, 2016 at 11:52 AM, Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com<mailto
:flying-nut@cfl.rr.com>> wrote
:
No data on Loehle ......
I cleaned the aluminum parts with lacquer thinner and then acid etched
just prior to painting the primer. I used Sherwin Williams acrylic ename
l
automotive paint (FPC135W which is their white fleet paint) and the FP410
primer. I did not want to use the two stage base coat/clear coat because
I
saw what the professionals produced on lots of cars on the road.
Linn
On 12/2/2016 12:28 PM, Gautier, Thomas N (3262) wrote:
RV-10ers,
After some years of building and lurking on the list I am ready to
paint my =9910. I have been using Loehle Aircraft primers for the
fiberglass
parts and I would like to do the same for painting the metal. However I
have been unsuccessful in contacting Loehle Aircraft by telephone nor
e-mail after repeated attempts over the last two weeks. Does anyone know
if
something has happened to Loehle Aircraft?
Also, do you listers have suggestions (of course you do) for a
different, easily usable paint system in case I can=99t get more L
oehle
material?
Regards,
Nick Gautier
N363TG reserved
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box options |
Bypass door - yes. I view this as required. I have red handle pull cable on the
panel to open the door. Assume the door will not go all the way shut if you
push the handle back in so if you pull it, reset is on the ground.
Drain tube - no. While at annual I might find some fuel residue in the bottom
of the air box I do not believe there is enough fuel dripping down into the filter
to warrant a drain tube.
Carl
> On Dec 4, 2016, at 7:30 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
>
>
> In the Van's manual, there are 2 things that are optional :
> - the FAB box drain tube, and
> - the Filter Bypass door
>
> Can you please tell if you chose, or not, to install both or any of these options,
and the reasons why?
>
> Regards
> Carlos
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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Awesome tip! Thanks!
Tim
> On Dec 4, 2016, at 6:32 PM, Kevin Belue <kdb.rv10@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> When I leave Aeroshell grease in the gun, the spring pressure causes the oil
to run out of the grease, making it drier. Now I always take the handle that keeps
pressure against the grease and pull it back and lock it so it takes the
pressure off the grease. This helps keep the oil in it so it doesn't dry out and
get thicker.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Dec 4, 2016, at 6:05 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Just closing the loop on this grease gun thread...
>>
>> A couple days ago I received my Lincoln 1134 Heavy Duty Grease
>> Gun. It seems to be well made, with a nicer plunger than my
>> old one...not extremely better, but a little nicer. Otherwise,
>> it really isn't a big change from my old gun. Today I tried to
>> load my Aeroshell 6 into it and nope, it didn't work either.
>> Even after purging the air out of it.
>>
>> So I got irritated and grabbed a brand new tube of Aeroshell 6
>> even though mine was not even half used. Right away I could
>> tell that this grease was not as thick as my old grease. It was
>> vastly different, and much more "oily" if that makes sense.
>> I cleaned out the old Aeroshell 6 that I tried to load in the
>> gun and stuck in the fresh tube. That stuff pumped out ok
>> after purging out the air. So, I probably didn't need to
>> spend $35 on a new gun...my old one would have worked just
>> fine. I just had crappy grease. Now I feel a bit bad that
>> I just shot 6 pumps into each side of my RV-10 prop on that
>> old grease. Oh well, hopefully it'll work its way around and
>> still be OK. Maybe after a few hours I'll throw a couple
>> more pumps in of the new stuff.
>>
>> For my old gun, I cleaned it out and loaded up a fresh
>> tube of the grease that I'm using for wheel bearings and
>> nose swivel. There really aren't too many other places on
>> the plane that need grease, other than the nose gear
>> hinge points.
>>
>> I'll probably put pictures on my website some day of
>> the guns, but, right now that's back burner for me.
>>
>> I don't know if Aeroshell 6 goes bad over time, but I'd
>> encourage you all to make sure that if your gun doesn't
>> pump it anymore, you just get a fresh tube. I'm not too
>> happy I even tried to use that old stuff now.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>>> On 11/28/2016 10:12 PM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>>
>>> I fought the same problem for years - couldn't reliably burp all the air
>>> out of the gun, so it would stop pumping.
>>>
>>> Then somebody showed me that it is possible (at least on my gun, I
>>> understand this is a common feature) to turn the plunger handle to just
>>> the right location so it will engage with the grease puck, allowing the
>>> operator to push on the end of the plunger handle and apply extra force
>>> to the grease column. Then you can operate the lever (or use the air
>>> burp fitting, if so equipped) to get a nice air-free column of grease
>>> flowing.
>>>
>>> In practice: rotate the plunger handle a little, push on it, see if
>>> there is resistance. If not, turn more and try again. Repeat until the
>>> plunger handle is locked to the grease puck.
>>>
>>> Tim
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box options |
I would certainly not consider the filter bypass door as optional. The alternate
air door would be optional in my book, but not the filter bypass.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 4, 2016, at 7:30 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
>
>
> In the Van's manual, there are 2 things that are optional :
> - the FAB box drain tube, and
> - the Filter Bypass door
>
> Can you please tell if you chose, or not, to install both or any of these options,
and the reasons why?
>
> Regards
> Carlos
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box options |
Yes
Yes
Alternate source of induction is always a welcome option should it be needed.
Fuel drain was no big deal to add, so I can't hurt to let it out.
The Alt air door was the most difficult to install but it's not bad either. I'd
just be certain that you know your cable route to it so can optimize your pivot
point location.
I'd also consider pro-sealing an aluminum rub plate in the bottom of the box between
the rubber filter edge and fiberglass.
I've seen too many filters rub right through the glass. We had a 7A the other
day that rubbed all the way through on about 80% of the circumference of the
filter.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 4, 2016, at 6:30 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
>
>
> In the Van's manual, there are 2 things that are optional :
> - the FAB box drain tube, and
> - the Filter Bypass door
>
> Can you please tell if you chose, or not, to install both or any of these options,
and the reasons why?
>
> Regards
> Carlos
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box options |
> On Dec 4, 2016, at 8:33 PM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I'd also consider pro-sealing an aluminum rub plate in the bottom of the b
ox between the rubber filter edge and fiberglass.
If you don't do this in the beginning, you eventually will need to. However,
I use some RTV and Pop rivets to hold it on place (rivets outside the filte
r), and the filter bypass door also attaches to the plate inside the filter.
>
> I've seen too many filters rub right through the glass. We had a 7A the o
ther day that rubbed all the way through on about 80% of the circumference o
f the filter.
I have seen this on numerous occasions as well. I think the worse I've seen w
as about 80% of the way around as well, filter almost falling out. We had to
add the plate and glass the outside both to fix it. It really is quite easy
to add.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
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| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box options |
A drain hole is needed, whether or not you use a tube. Otherwise you will have
fuel pooled in there with no way to drain out from either overpriming or trying
to start a hot engine.
grumpy
> On Dec 4, 2016, at 6:53 PM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>
> Bypass door - yes. I view this as required. I have red handle pull cable on
the panel to open the door. Assume the door will not go all the way shut if
you push the handle back in so if you pull it, reset is on the ground.
>
> Drain tube - no. While at annual I might find some fuel residue in the bottom
of the air box I do not believe there is enough fuel dripping down into the
filter to warrant a drain tube.
>
> Carl
>
>> On Dec 4, 2016, at 7:30 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
>>
>>
>> In the Van's manual, there are 2 things that are optional :
>> - the FAB box drain tube, and
>> - the Filter Bypass door
>>
>> Can you please tell if you chose, or not, to install both or any of these options,
and the reasons why?
>>
>> Regards
>> Carlos
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box options |
Like Jesse said - don't even think about using the Van's air box without a p
iece of 0.032" or so aluminum in the bottom that extends to the edge of the f
ilter. While you are at it, add four pieced of light aluminum angle (0.025
") to the plate to hold the air filter shape. Bend the aluminum to conform t
o the inside of the filter. Engine vibration tends to change cylindrical fi
lter to conical - and in the process the filter tends to loose the seal with
the top of the air box. I did this on an 8a and a 10 and have no further p
roblems.
I sent a note to Van's recommending they add the aluminum plate to the air b
ox kit. They agreed with customers adding the plate, but had no response on
modifying the kit.
Carl
> On Dec 4, 2016, at 9:22 PM, Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com> wrote:
>
>> On Dec 4, 2016, at 8:33 PM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I'd also consider pro-sealing an aluminum rub plate in the bottom of the b
ox between the rubber filter edge and fiberglass.
> If you don't do this in the beginning, you eventually will need to. Howeve
r, I use some RTV and Pop rivets to hold it on place (rivets outside the fil
ter), and the filter bypass door also attaches to the plate inside the filte
r.
>>
>> I've seen too many filters rub right through the glass. We had a 7A the
other day that rubbed all the way through on about 80% of the circumference
of the filter.
> I have seen this on numerous occasions as well. I think the worse I've see
n was about 80% of the way around as well, filter almost falling out. We had
to add the plate and glass the outside both to fix it. It really is quite e
asy to add.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse@saintaviation.com
>
> Sent from my iPad
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box options |
> On 2016-Dec-04, at 5:30 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
>
>
> In the Van's manual, there are 2 things that are optional :
> - the FAB box drain tube, and
> - the Filter Bypass door
I put in both myself, but with the filter bypass door in place, I can't imagine
how the drain tube would ever get used. Any fuel that ends up at the bottom
of the FAB box is just going to leak around the edges of the bypass door, since
it's hardly hermetically sealed.
Dan
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box options |
I saw an RV-10 once that had an induction fire after a botched hot start. It didn't
look pretty. He didn't have the drain tube but installed one after that.
Lenny
trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt wrote:
> In the Van's manual, there are 2 things that are optional :
> - the FAB box drain tube, and
> - the Filter Bypass door
>
> Can you please tell if you chose, or not, to install both or any of these options,
and the reasons why?
>
> Regards
> Carlos
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=463714#463714
Message 18
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| Subject: | Anything to delete from baffle kit? |
I don't see an inventory listed for the -10 baffle kit---curious if you
wished you'd removed or added anything when you ordered it.
Thanks,
David
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