Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:37 AM - Re: Filtered Air Box options (Kelly McMullen)
2. 06:58 AM - Re: Filtered Air Box options (Carlos Trigo)
3. 08:45 AM - Re: Loehle aircraft and airplane paint (Bill Watson)
4. 08:51 AM - Re: Anything to delete from baffle kit? (Bill Watson)
5. 09:01 AM - Fw: Anything to delete from baffle kit? (David Carr)
6. 09:31 AM - Re: Filtered Air Box options - save your life (Tim Lewis)
7. 12:04 PM - Re: Filtered Air Box options (Phillip Perry)
8. 07:21 PM - Re: Filtered Air Box options - save your life (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box options |
I have studied the question quite a bit. Quite frankly I think the bypass
door is a bad design and doesn't accomplish what it should. There is no
need to bypass a round filter.
Given that the air filter is an automotive round design, the physics argue
against it ever getting blocked by impact icing or any other type like
snow, frost, dust, you name it. Nothing but vapor can make the 180 degree
turn to hit the backside of the filter.
On the other hand there is some small risk that snow or ice could block the
air intake from the outside. That could be addressed by installing the carb
heat fitting at the front of the snorkel that is designed for carbureted
engines. Whether you hooked it up to heat or not, it would provide intake
air in the unlikely event that the inlet was blocked, and would be able to
be openned and closed. And you would always have filtered air.
I did install the drain, because I didn't do the bypass door. I'm still
thinking about the carb heat door.
Kelly
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Sun, Dec 4, 2016 at 9:59 PM, Dan Charrois <dan@syz.com> wrote:
>
>
> > On 2016-Dec-04, at 5:30 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
> >
> >
> > In the Van's manual, there are 2 things that are optional :
> > - the FAB box drain tube, and
> > - the Filter Bypass door
>
> I put in both myself, but with the filter bypass door in place, I can't
> imagine how the drain tube would ever get used. Any fuel that ends up at
> the bottom of the FAB box is just going to leak around the edges of the
> bypass door, since it's hardly hermetically sealed.
>
> Dan
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Filtered Air Box options |
Thanks to all who responded.
Phillip
Do you have any photo of the rub plate you are recommending?
Best
Carlos
-----Mensagem original-----
De: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] Em nome de Phillip Perry
Enviada: Monday, December 5, 2016 1:33 AM
Para: rv10-list@matronics.com
Assunto: Re: RV10-List: Filtered Air Box options
Yes
Yes
Alternate source of induction is always a welcome option should it be
needed.
Fuel drain was no big deal to add, so I can't hurt to let it out.
The Alt air door was the most difficult to install but it's not bad either.
I'd just be certain that you know your cable route to it so can optimize
your pivot point location.
I'd also consider pro-sealing an aluminum rub plate in the bottom of the box
between the rubber filter edge and fiberglass.
I've seen too many filters rub right through the glass. We had a 7A the
other day that rubbed all the way through on about 80% of the circumference
of the filter.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 4, 2016, at 6:30 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
>
>
> In the Van's manual, there are 2 things that are optional :
> - the FAB box drain tube, and
> - the Filter Bypass door
>
> Can you please tell if you chose, or not, to install both or any of these
options, and the reasons why?
>
> Regards
> Carlos
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Loehle aircraft and airplane paint |
Yes
On 12/4/2016 9:52 AM, Linn Walters wrote:
> I also had to deviate from the info sheets to really thin the paint
> to get a much better flow.
A lot of the published specs are driven by important VOC control
requirements. Commercial shops really need to obey them for the common
good. As a first timer/one timer you can give yourself some rookie help
by looking under the specs and finding out where a little extra thinning
will let you get the results you want without a year's apprenticeship at
the local autobody shop.
> Just like riveting, the more I painted the better the results.
---
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Anything to delete from baffle kit? |
The baffle material. I used silicon and find it to be super stuff. No
significant wear at 800 hours. Easy to work with, looks good, etc
On 12/5/2016 1:13 AM, David Carr wrote:
> I don't see an inventory listed for the -10 baffle kit---curious if
> you wished you'd removed or added anything when you ordered it.
>
> Thanks,
> David
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Anything to delete from baffle kit? |
Thanks for the tip, Bill.
I also received the full inventory list this morning from Van's. It's
attached in case it's helpful to anyone.
David
On Mon, Dec 5, 2016 at 10:50 AM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> The baffle material. I used silicon and find it to be super stuff. No
> significant wear at 800 hours. Easy to work with, looks good, etc
> On 12/5/2016 1:13 AM, David Carr wrote:
>
>> I don't see an inventory listed for the -10 baffle kit---curious if you
>> wished you'd removed or added anything when you ordered it.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> David
>>
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box options - save your life |
The round RV air filter has become clogged by snow in at least two cases
that I know of, resulting in two fatalities (one case) and an off-field
landing (second case). RV carb heat air (at least on the RV-6) was not
hot enough to melt snow clogging the round RV air filter.
Cowl air is certainly not hot enough to melt snow from the filter.
I recommend builders learn from past history (including a fatality).
Install a filter bypass (Van's design or another design) that provides
an alternate air path to potentially save your life in case of a clogged
filter.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
A&P
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 860 hrs
Kelly McMullen wrote on 12/5/2016 5:36 AM:
> I have studied the question quite a bit. Quite frankly I think the
> bypass door is a bad design and doesn't accomplish what it should.
> There is no need to bypass a round filter.
> Given that the air filter is an automotive round design, the physics
> argue against it ever getting blocked by impact icing or any other
> type like snow, frost, dust, you name it. Nothing but vapor can make
> the 180 degree turn to hit the backside of the filter.
> On the other hand there is some small risk that snow or ice could
> block the air intake from the outside. That could be addressed by
> installing the carb heat fitting at the front of the snorkel that is
> designed for carbureted engines. Whether you hooked it up to heat or
> not, it would provide intake air in the unlikely event that the inlet
> was blocked, and would be able to be openned and closed. And you would
> always have filtered air.
> I did install the drain, because I didn't do the bypass door. I'm
> still thinking about the carb heat door.
> Kelly
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
> On Sun, Dec 4, 2016 at 9:59 PM, Dan Charrois <dan@syz.com
> <mailto:dan@syz.com>> wrote:
>
> <mailto:dan@syz.com>>
>
>
> > On 2016-Dec-04, at 5:30 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt
> <mailto:trigo@mail.telepac.pt>> wrote:
> >
> <trigo@mail.telepac.pt <mailto:trigo@mail.telepac.pt>>
> >
> > In the Van's manual, there are 2 things that are optional :
> > - the FAB box drain tube, and
> > - the Filter Bypass door
>
> I put in both myself, but with the filter bypass door in place, I
> can't imagine how the drain tube would ever get used. Any fuel
> that ends up at the bottom of the FAB box is just going to leak
> around the edges of the bypass door, since it's hardly
> hermetically sealed.
>
> Dan
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213 <tel:780-961-2213>
>
>
> ===================================
> br> fts!)
> r> > com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> w.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> p.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
> " rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ===================================
> -List" rel="noreferrer"
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================
> FORUMS -
> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> WIKI -
> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
> ===================================
> b Site -
> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box options |
I don't have a good photo on my phone apparently.
So I just took this one down the snout. I used .063 because I wanted somet
hing really firm to suck up tight against the filter. Primarily to reduce t
he likely hood of deformation.
Mine is pro-sealed in and looks like a donut. The filter bypass sits in th
e middle of the donut hole.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 5, 2016, at 8:57 AM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks to all who responded.
>
> Phillip
>
> Do you have any photo of the rub plate you are recommending?
>
> Best
> Carlos
>
>
> -----Mensagem original-----
> De: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] Em nome de Phillip Perry
> Enviada: Monday, December 5, 2016 1:33 AM
> Para: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Assunto: Re: RV10-List: Filtered Air Box options
>
>
> Yes
> Yes
>
> Alternate source of induction is always a welcome option should it be
> needed.
>
> Fuel drain was no big deal to add, so I can't hurt to let it out.
>
> The Alt air door was the most difficult to install but it's not bad either
.
> I'd just be certain that you know your cable route to it so can optimize
> your pivot point location.
>
> I'd also consider pro-sealing an aluminum rub plate in the bottom of the b
ox
> between the rubber filter edge and fiberglass.
>
> I've seen too many filters rub right through the glass. We had a 7A the
> other day that rubbed all the way through on about 80% of the circumferenc
e
> of the filter.
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Dec 4, 2016, at 6:30 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
>>
>>
>> In the Van's manual, there are 2 things that are optional :
>> - the FAB box drain tube, and
>> - the Filter Bypass door
>>
>> Can you please tell if you chose, or not, to install both or any of these
> options, and the reasons why?
>>
>> Regards
>> Carlos
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Filtered Air Box options - save your life |
Thanks for the heads up. Personally, I have no need nor plans to fly in
snow.
I suppose one could design a plate to mostly block the normal intake if the
carb heat intake was activated, to prevent snow from entering the FAB.
Or you can do the Van's bypass to feed unfiltered air.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Mon, Dec 5, 2016 at 10:30 AM, Tim Lewis <TimRVator@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> The round RV air filter has become clogged by snow in at least two cases
> that I know of, resulting in two fatalities (one case) and an off-field
> landing (second case). RV carb heat air (at least on the RV-6) was not hot
> enough to melt snow clogging the round RV air filter.
>
> Cowl air is certainly not hot enough to melt snow from the filter.
>
> I recommend builders learn from past history (including a fatality).
> Install a filter bypass (Van's design or another design) that provides an
> alternate air path to potentially save your life in case of a clogged
> filter.
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> A&P
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 860 hrs
>
> Kelly McMullen wrote on 12/5/2016 5:36 AM:
>
>> I have studied the question quite a bit. Quite frankly I think the bypass
>> door is a bad design and doesn't accomplish what it should. There is no
>> need to bypass a round filter.
>> Given that the air filter is an automotive round design, the physics
>> argue against it ever getting blocked by impact icing or any other type
>> like snow, frost, dust, you name it. Nothing but vapor can make the 180
>> degree turn to hit the backside of the filter.
>> On the other hand there is some small risk that snow or ice could block
>> the air intake from the outside. That could be addressed by installing the
>> carb heat fitting at the front of the snorkel that is designed for
>> carbureted engines. Whether you hooked it up to heat or not, it would
>> provide intake air in the unlikely event that the inlet was blocked, and
>> would be able to be openned and closed. And you would always have filtered
>> air.
>> I did install the drain, because I didn't do the bypass door. I'm still
>> thinking about the carb heat door.
>> Kelly
>>
>> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>>
>> On Sun, Dec 4, 2016 at 9:59 PM, Dan Charrois <dan@syz.com <mailto:
>> dan@syz.com>> wrote:
>>
>> <mailto:dan@syz.com>>
>>
>>
>> > On 2016-Dec-04, at 5:30 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt
>> <mailto:trigo@mail.telepac.pt>> wrote:
>> >
>> <trigo@mail.telepac.pt <mailto:trigo@mail.telepac.pt>>
>> >
>> > In the Van's manual, there are 2 things that are optional :
>> > - the FAB box drain tube, and
>> > - the Filter Bypass door
>>
>> I put in both myself, but with the filter bypass door in place, I
>> can't imagine how the drain tube would ever get used. Any fuel
>> that ends up at the bottom of the FAB box is just going to leak
>> around the edges of the bypass door, since it's hardly
>> hermetically sealed.
>>
>> Dan
>> ---
>> Dan Charrois
>> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
>> Phone: 780-961-2213 <tel:780-961-2213>
>>
>>
>> ===================================
>> br> fts!)
>> r> > com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> w.buildersbooks.com" rel="noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>> p.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> e.com" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> " rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.mat
>> ronics.com/contribution
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> ===================================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer"
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ===================================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.mat
>> ronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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