RV10-List Digest Archive

Wed 02/22/17


Total Messages Posted: 9



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:52 AM - Falcon pitot tube (dlm)
     2. 04:57 PM - Jacking the RV-10 (Dan Charrois)
     3. 05:20 PM - Re: Jacking the RV-10 (Bob Turner)
     4. 05:22 PM - Re: Jacking the RV-10 (Linn Walters)
     5. 05:43 PM - Re: Re: Jacking the RV-10 (Linn Walters)
     6. 05:46 PM - Vans RV-10 lawsuit dismissed (Phillip Perry)
     7. 06:12 PM - Re: Jacking the RV-10 (Kelly McMullen)
     8. 06:13 PM - Re: Re: Jacking the RV-10 (LEON EVERETT)
     9. 06:13 PM - Re: Jacking the RV-10 (Jesse Saint)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:52:47 AM PST US
    From: dlm <dlm34077@gmail.com>
    Subject: Falcon pitot tube
    After my Falcon broke internally(?) I found a much better solution from Garmin , the GAP 26 includes heated pitot and AOA , approximately $300-500.


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:57:59 PM PST US
    From: Dan Charrois <dan@syz.com>
    Subject: Jacking the RV-10
    I'm building the wheel fairings and am at the part in the plans where I jack up the plane for alignment so the wheels are oriented as they are in flight (though they don't give specific recommendations on how to do this). I've built wing jacks, along with a socket that screws into the wing tiedown bolt holes that a well-supported bottle jack can fit into. I'm not too worried about the jack slipping out of place, and so far as I know, other RV-10 builders have jacked up their planes in this manner. But I just wanted to check before I do it that I'm not doing something stupid - the tiedown bolt hole locations are strong enough for this, aren't they? Obviously, the wings are strong enough to support the weight of the plane, but I just wanted to double check first, considering that when jacking the wings, all the force is in the one location of the tiedown bolt hole, instead of distributed more evenly along the wing as it is in flight. Any gotchas to be aware of before I do this, other than the obvious making sure the nose wheel is well chocked first, and raising both wings simultaneously to keep things relatively level? Also, the plans call for lateral and longitudinal levelling when fitting the fairings. When the plane sits on the ground, the level datum (door sill) is tipped a few degrees nose high - but they say to only jack up the plane until the main wheels are no more than 1/16" off the floor. I haven't done it yet, but in doing so, will that straighten out the lateral (pitch) axis sufficiently level as the weight is taken off the main gear legs? I can raise the nose wheel for lateral levelling if it's too nose low with the mains 1/16" off the floor, but if it's still nose high, the only way I could see to laterally level it would be to dig a hole for the nose gear :-) Thanks! Dan --- Dan Charrois President, Syzygy Research & Technology Phone: 780-961-2213


    Message 3


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    Time: 05:20:44 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Jacking the RV-10
    From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
    Fine-tune the fore-aft leveling by adding/letting out air from the nose tire. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466523#466523


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:22:46 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Jacking the RV-10
    From: Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com>
    Nothing to worry about using the socket/bolt as a jack point. recently did that on an RV-9. I would put a large area washer between the wing and the socket to prevent a smiley from the socket .... since it's at an angle to the jack. When I did my wheel pants I jacked up the mains and used a scissor jack under the nosegear nut to level the door sill. The 1/16" isn't critical .... you just need to get the mains and the nose wheel off the ground to simulate level flight. Linn On 2/22/2017 7:52 PM, Dan Charrois wrote: > > I'm building the wheel fairings and am at the part in the plans where I jack up the plane for alignment so the wheels are oriented as they are in flight (though they don't give specific recommendations on how to do this). I've built wing jacks, along with a socket that screws into the wing tiedown bolt holes that a well-supported bottle jack can fit into. I'm not too worried about the jack slipping out of place, and so far as I know, other RV-10 builders have jacked up their planes in this manner. But I just wanted to check before I do it that I'm not doing something stupid - the tiedown bolt hole locations are strong enough for this, aren't they? Obviously, the wings are strong enough to support the weight of the plane, but I just wanted to double check first, considering that when jacking the wings, all the force is in the one location of the tiedown bolt hole, instead of distributed more evenly along the wing as it is in flight. > > Any gotchas to be aware of before I do this, other than the obvious making sure the nose wheel is well chocked first, and raising both wings simultaneously to keep things relatively level? > > Also, the plans call for lateral and longitudinal levelling when fitting the fairings. When the plane sits on the ground, the level datum (door sill) is tipped a few degrees nose high - but they say to only jack up the plane until the main wheels are no more than 1/16" off the floor. I haven't done it yet, but in doing so, will that straighten out the lateral (pitch) axis sufficiently level as the weight is taken off the main gear legs? I can raise the nose wheel for lateral levelling if it's too nose low with the mains 1/16" off the floor, but if it's still nose high, the only way I could see to laterally level it would be to dig a hole for the nose gear :-) > > Thanks! > > Dan > --- > Dan Charrois > President, Syzygy Research & Technology > Phone: 780-961-2213 > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 05:43:01 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Jacking the RV-10
    From: Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com>
    I jacked up the mains using jacks just inside the gear and used a scissors jack under the nose gear to find out where level was. Used cinder blocks and small bottle jack under the firewall (2x4 across the fuse) to level with all three wheels off the floor and did all three pants before putting back on the floor. Linn On 2/22/2017 8:18 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > Fine-tune the fore-aft leveling by adding/letting out air from the nose tire. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466523#466523 > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 05:46:23 PM PST US
    From: Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com>
    Subject: Vans RV-10 lawsuit dismissed
    Good news. http://kitplanes2.com/blog/2017/02/lawsuit-against-vans-aircraft-dismissed/ Sent from my iPhone


    Message 7


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    Time: 06:12:59 PM PST US
    From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Jacking the RV-10
    See if you can't borrow a set of real aircraft jacks. You will need the plane in the air for a day or two, and you don't want to be relying on a jerry rigged jack. Carriage bolts with the round head work fine for jack points. I used the same jacks that I use to do retraction checks on my Mooney. I think you will be surprised how many aircraft owners have a set of jacks. -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm On Wed, Feb 22, 2017 at 5:52 PM, Dan Charrois <dan@syz.com> wrote: > > I'm building the wheel fairings and am at the part in the plans where I > jack up the plane for alignment so the wheels are oriented as they are in > flight (though they don't give specific recommendations on how to do > this). I've built wing jacks, along with a socket that screws into the > wing tiedown bolt holes that a well-supported bottle jack can fit into. > I'm not too worried about the jack slipping out of place, and so far as I > know, other RV-10 builders have jacked up their planes in this manner. But > I just wanted to check before I do it that I'm not doing something stupid - > the tiedown bolt hole locations are strong enough for this, aren't they? > Obviously, the wings are strong enough to support the weight of the plane, > but I just wanted to double check first, considering that when jacking the > wings, all the force is in the one location of the tiedown bolt hole, > instead of distributed more evenly along the wing as it is in flight. > > Any gotchas to be aware of before I do this, other than the obvious making > sure the nose wheel is well chocked first, and raising both wings > simultaneously to keep things relatively level? > > Also, the plans call for lateral and longitudinal levelling when fitting > the fairings. When the plane sits on the ground, the level datum (door > sill) is tipped a few degrees nose high - but they say to only jack up the > plane until the main wheels are no more than 1/16" off the floor. I > haven't done it yet, but in doing so, will that straighten out the lateral > (pitch) axis sufficiently level as the weight is taken off the main gear > legs? I can raise the nose wheel for lateral levelling if it's too nose > low with the mains 1/16" off the floor, but if it's still nose high, the > only way I could see to laterally level it would be to dig a hole for the > nose gear :-) > > Thanks! > > Dan > --- > Dan Charrois > President, Syzygy Research & Technology > Phone: 780-961-2213 > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 06:13:00 PM PST US
    From: LEON EVERETT <leeverett@MSN.COM>
    Subject: Re: Jacking the RV-10
    Is that a yearly fee? ________________________________ From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <owner-rv10-list-server@matronic s.com> on behalf of Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2017 7:39:46 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Jacking the RV-10 I jacked up the mains using jacks just inside the gear and used a scissors jack under the nose gear to find out where level was. Used cinder blocks and small bottle jack under the firewall (2x4 across the fuse) to level with all three wheels off the floor and did all three pants before putting back on the floor. Linn On 2/22/2017 8:18 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > Fine-tune the fore-aft leveling by adding/letting out air from the nose t ire. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=466523#466523 > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com<http://www.avg.com> > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 06:13:06 PM PST US
    From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
    Subject: Re: Jacking the RV-10
    Van's recommended point for jacking up the plane is the tie downs. The lift in flight is over a bigger surface, but the forces are transferred through the spar to the fuselage. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse@saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad > On Feb 22, 2017, at 7:52 PM, Dan Charrois <dan@syz.com> wrote: > > > I'm building the wheel fairings and am at the part in the plans where I jack up the plane for alignment so the wheels are oriented as they are in flight (though they don't give specific recommendations on how to do this). I've built wing jacks, along with a socket that screws into the wing tiedown bolt holes that a well-supported bottle jack can fit into. I'm not too worried about the jack slipping out of place, and so far as I know, other RV-10 builders have jacked up their planes in this manner. But I just wanted to check before I do it that I'm not doing something stupid - the tiedown bolt hole locations are strong enough for this, aren't they? Obviously, the wings are strong enough to support the weight of the plane, but I just wanted to double check first, considering that when jacking the wings, all the force is in the one location of the tiedown bolt hole, instead of distributed more evenly along the wing as it is in flight. > > Any gotchas to be aware of before I do this, other than the obvious making sure the nose wheel is well chocked first, and raising both wings simultaneously to keep things relatively level? > > Also, the plans call for lateral and longitudinal levelling when fitting the fairings. When the plane sits on the ground, the level datum (door sill) is tipped a few degrees nose high - but they say to only jack up the plane until the main wheels are no more than 1/16" off the floor. I haven't done it yet, but in doing so, will that straighten out the lateral (pitch) axis sufficiently level as the weight is taken off the main gear legs? I can raise the nose wheel for lateral levelling if it's too nose low with the mains 1/16" off the floor, but if it's still nose high, the only way I could see to laterally level it would be to dig a hole for the nose gear :-) > > Thanks! > > Dan > --- > Dan Charrois > President, Syzygy Research & Technology > Phone: 780-961-2213 > > > > >




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