Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:41 AM - Cotton fiber instead of Cab-o-Sil (Carlos Trigo)
2. 05:21 AM - Re: Cotton fiber instead of Cab-o-Sil (Kelly McMullen)
3. 05:27 AM - Re: A couple of questions (johngoodman)
4. 05:52 AM - Re: Re: LLC (Kelly McMullen)
5. 06:00 AM - Re: Cotton fiber instead of Cab-o-Sil (Carl Froehlich)
6. 06:21 AM - Re: Cotton fiber instead of Cab-o-Sil (Phillip Perry)
7. 06:43 AM - Re: Cotton fiber instead of Cab-o-Sil (David Saylor)
8. 06:46 AM - LLC (dlm)
9. 08:48 AM - Re: RV10 instructors (Kenneth Langley)
10. 10:38 AM - TIPS (David)
11. 12:09 PM - Re: Cotton fiber instead of Cab-o-Sil (Carlos Trigo)
12. 05:50 PM - Door seals (John Miller)
13. 06:40 PM - Re: Door seals (Rene Felker)
14. 07:01 PM - Re: Door seals (Rene Felker)
15. 07:51 PM - Re: Door seals (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Cotton fiber instead of Cab-o-Sil |
Guys
I am prepared to glue today the doors halves, and just realised that Aircraft Spruce
didn't send me the Cab-o-Sil I had ordered last week.
I do have Cotton Fiber at hand, so my question is:
Can I use Cotton Fiber to thicken the gluing resin, instead of Cab-o-Sil?
Thanks
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cotton fiber instead of Cab-o-Sil |
I'm no expert, but I wouldn't do it. The cabosil is much lighter, mixes
more easily (but wear a mask...dust everywhere).
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Wed, Mar 8, 2017 at 5:35 AM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
>
> Guys
>
> I am prepared to glue today the doors halves, and just realised that
> Aircraft Spruce didn't send me the Cab-o-Sil I had ordered last week.
> I do have Cotton Fiber at hand, so my question is:
> Can I use Cotton Fiber to thicken the gluing resin, instead of Cab-o-Sil?
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: A couple of questions |
An LLC is a waste of time for an individual, but is handy for a partnership. As
far as the tax man, they will find out when the LLC changes names, or owners.
Everything is done by computers, now.
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467007#467007
Message 4
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I'm no lawyer, and I opted to not do an LLC as it may not provide much
if any liability protection for an individual owner/pilot.
However, changing owners or name of LLC in most states is not a taxable
event as far as sales or property taxes. One can even do LLC within LLC
if there is a reason to further conceal ownership, or make attorneys
work harder to find who to sue.
You have to find out what fees and taxes are required to maintain LLC in
state the aircraft is based. I understand that Delaware or other
friendly state corporations may not offer protection against state
personal property and/or registration taxes. One does need to consult
with local aviation atty if you are inclined to go the LLC route. Advice
is worth the money. Paying them to do the mundane paperwork may not be
worth money. In AZ, I talked to AOPA referred atty after AOPA plan said
it would pay $200 towards LLC formation. Price to do it was $1200.
Talked to non-AOPA atty, price was $1000. Actual fees to file under $100
and can be done online if you are comfortable with making the choices.
On 3/8/2017 6:27 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
> An LLC is a waste of time for an individual, but is handy for a partnership.
As far as the tax man, they will find out when the LLC changes names, or owners.
Everything is done by computers, now.
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467007#467007
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cotton fiber instead of Cab-o-Sil |
Cab-o-sil ash no strength at all. But it does thicken up the epoxy.
I did a mixture of cotton flox and Cab-o-Sil for this application. Worked w
ell.
Carl
> On Mar 8, 2017, at 8:21 AM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I'm no expert, but I wouldn't do it. The cabosil is much lighter, mixes mo
re easily (but wear a mask...dust everywhere).
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
>> On Wed, Mar 8, 2017 at 5:35 AM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrot
e:
>>
>> Guys
>>
>> I am prepared to glue today the doors halves, and just realised that Airc
raft Spruce didn't send me the Cab-o-Sil I had ordered last week.
>> I do have Cotton Fiber at hand, so my question is:
>> Can I use Cotton Fiber to thicken the gluing resin, instead of Cab-o-Sil?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Carlos
>>
>> Enviado do meu iPhone
>>
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>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cotton fiber instead of Cab-o-Sil |
I don't really see an issue with it, as long as the mixture isn't mixed so
much in favor of Fiber that it becomes dry and unable to flow into the
pores of the two halves.
Before I slathered it on, I'd use a small roller to roll-on a thin layer of
resin only. Just to be sure that it's given a chance to work into the
pores. Then I'd smear on the mixture. It might help bring a bit more
rigidity to the doors, which could be a good thing or a bad thing... (Not
sure. But there are always trade offs)
In the big picture though, I don't see a problem with it as long as you've
rolled on a coat of resin to get down into the surface.
Phil
On Wed, Mar 8, 2017 at 8:00 AM, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
wrote:
> Cab-o-sil ash no strength at all. But it does thicken up the epoxy.
>
> I did a mixture of cotton flox and Cab-o-Sil for this application. Worked
> well.
>
> Carl
>
> On Mar 8, 2017, at 8:21 AM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I'm no expert, but I wouldn't do it. The cabosil is much lighter, mixes
> more easily (but wear a mask...dust everywhere).
>
> -sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
>
> On Wed, Mar 8, 2017 at 5:35 AM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> Guys
>>
>> I am prepared to glue today the doors halves, and just realised that
>> Aircraft Spruce didn't send me the Cab-o-Sil I had ordered last week.
>> I do have Cotton Fiber at hand, so my question is:
>> Can I use Cotton Fiber to thicken the gluing resin, instead of Cab-o-Sil?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Carlos
>>
>> Enviado do meu iPhone
>>
>> ===================================
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>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cotton fiber instead of Cab-o-Sil |
Carlos,
Substituting cotton for Cab-o-sil to glue the door halves together would
create a strong structure, but I can think of a few possible issues:
Cotton will be heavier.
Since the door is so highly curved, some resin will run out of the bond
just due to gravity. Cab helps prevent that. So would a fast-curing resin
and heat, but you'll have less working time :-(
The door may end up "thicker" since the cotton layer between the skins will
be thicker than a resin/cab mixture.
If your layer of cotton isn't extremely uniform, you may end up with voids.
I think I just talked myself out of it! I'd hold off until you can get
some cabosil.
--Dave
On Wed, Mar 8, 2017 at 4:35 AM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
>
> Guys
>
> I am prepared to glue today the doors halves, and just realised that
> Aircraft Spruce didn't send me the Cab-o-Sil I had ordered last week.
> I do have Cotton Fiber at hand, so my question is:
> Can I use Cotton Fiber to thicken the gluing resin, instead of Cab-o-Sil?
>
> Thanks
> Carlos
>
> Enviado do meu iPhone
>
>
Message 8
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Look into the state partnership laws. In AZ an aircraft can be owned by an
LLC but LLC may have little value; the LLC is liened to a partnership for
the amount spent building the aircraft. The lien is filed with the FAA in
OKC. All entities can be sued but in AZ it is very disconcerting to the
plaintiff that suing the partnership results in a charging order that
accrues annually until the partnership terminates , then the partnership
is required to pay *if* any assets still exist. Partnerships terminate
after 98 years and heirs have unlimited access to spend everything by that
time. BTW the accrued money is taxable as both state and federal income in
the year accrued. The law was primarily set up for doctors, etc. but can't
preclude general use.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 instructors |
Good idea
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 4, 2017, at 9:04 AM, David Saylor <saylor.dave@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> You might ask if there's an alternative. I've given and received "dual" wi
thout a CFI involved. I know it's not really dual instruction but it satisfi
ed the insurance company. In a few cases I was specifically named as the per
son to fly with so you might ask if your A&P can just get some familiarizati
on time logged with you.
>
> --Dave
>
> On Fri, Mar 3, 2017 at 8:21 AM, Kenneth Langley <klangley1@mygrande.net> w
rote:
>
> I am wanting to add my AP/AI to my insurance policy so that he can act as P
IC in the RV10. Insurance is wanting him to have 2 hours with an instructor t
hat has 25 hrs in make and model (RV10). I have taken him in my 10 and he ca
n handle the plane, but we need an instructor that is close to Waco, TX that
can give him the 2 hours (in my plane) and sign off.
> Is there a qualifying and willing instructor within a reasonable distance o
f Waco?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ==========
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Message 10
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As I promised earlier I am enclosing tips for dealing with the insurance
company and other suppliers when involved in an insurance claim.
Having recently gone through a claim with all the bells and whistles; I am
told that the $25k claim is "small potatoes" to the aircraft insurance
business. Anyway I will relate a sanitized version of lessons learned and
Dos/Don'ts.
(1) The insurance adjustor is not your friend; he works for himself and the
insurance company. Make certain he has the correct email address; my
adjustor did not reply to my email but instead used a wrong address several
times and his response went astray and he apparently did not check his
rejected email for bad addresses. Also any teardown quote less than $10000
(plus damages) is, in my opinion, a "low ball" which contains the unspoken
proviso to make the profit on the aircraft owner.
(2) Do not allow the adjustor to pick the engine shop; be aware that engine
shops will "low ball" the quote and try and make the profit on the owner
after the engine is disassembled at their shop. The shop quotes usually meet
the minimum of the FAA protocol. Talk to local IAs about your selected shop
before letting anyone take your engine. If at all possible send your engine
to Lycoming or some other major engine shop with a good reputation.
(3) Be aware that there are engine shops "out there" that provide finders
fees to other individuals including IAs.
(4) Do not "help" the insurance company minimize the loss; they do not
appreciate it. You will find yourself in the middle of the raptor feeding
frenzy of vendors.
(5) What ever engine shop you use, give them written instructions to notify
you in writing of all changes that may be charged to you before they do the
work; and then authorize all (if any) changes (work orders) in writing.
Insist on good digital photographs or go and see; it you are not qualified,
take an IA or A&P with you. Be advised that if insurance is involved, the
incremental amount (total invoice minus insurance reimbursement) may not be
an economic small claims action.
(6) Recognize that you must pay their entire invoice to get your engine
returned. If the insurance company pays any part of the claim, up front they
have negotiating leverage to minimize your claim. If insurance pays
initially, the repair will take longer.
(7) Be present for the entire R&R and make notes or do it yourself; after
all you know the firewall forward better than any newbie assigned to remove
and replace your engine. Most quotes for this are a best effort basis and
about 25-30 hours; that is 10 hours for removal and 15-20 hours for
replacement. Quotes are very general. You might want to be specific;
example: engine run and logbook entry required if you are not repairman or
A&P.
(8) Be advised that R&R vendors look for "extra work". Extra work occurs
when they perform an extra task not considered (vendor opinion) in the
original estimate. Two examples: if the engine departed your hangar with the
starting magneto on the left side and the standard magneto on the right and
the engine shop returns the engine with switched magnetos, this could cause
extra work. On the other hand if the vendor removes the prop and leaves the
fore/aft spinner bulkheads in place on a damaged prop. To fit a new spinner
you may need to remove the old bulkheads to check for airworthy
(straight/not bent) parts. The vendor may try calling extra work when the
new prop is to be installed because they did not remove those parts; this is
not valid extra work. If you are not an A&P or have a repairman certificate
for the given aircraft, you may need a signoff from the operator. Be advised
that even vendor screw ups are billed; for example if they leave a loose oil
line connection and the aircraft and engine is drenched in oil at first
start, they still get paid for that and the clean up.
(9) Be aware of the "betterment" phenomena. Insurance companies allegedly
try to restore you to the moment before the incident/accident. If, for
example, they are required by damage protocols to do certain procedures or
parts replacement, they will try and charge for the "betterment". This is
true even if you have a $0 deductible policy.
Be Patient. Typical engine teardown/rebuild turnaround is 6-8 weeks;
insurance settlement about 8 weeks after aircraft flies.
This process reminds me of doing business in the third world (Middle East
1979-1995).
"You always learn more than you ever wanted to know"
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cotton fiber instead of Cab-o-Sil |
Thanks to you all for the quick and helpful responses.
I decided to wait to get the Cab-o-Sil.
Cheers
Carlos
Enviado do meu iPhone
No dia 08/03/2017, =C3-s 14:42, David Saylor <saylor.dave@gmail.com> escre
veu:
> Carlos,
>
> Substituting cotton for Cab-o-sil to glue the door halves together would c
reate a strong structure, but I can think of a few possible issues:
>
> Cotton will be heavier.
>
> Since the door is so highly curved, some resin will run out of the bond ju
st due to gravity. Cab helps prevent that. So would a fast-curing resin an
d heat, but you'll have less working time :-(
>
> The door may end up "thicker" since the cotton layer between the skins wil
l be thicker than a resin/cab mixture.
>
> If your layer of cotton isn't extremely uniform, you may end up with voids
.
>
> I think I just talked myself out of it! I'd hold off until you can get so
me cabosil.
>
> --Dave
>
>> On Wed, Mar 8, 2017 at 4:35 AM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrot
e:
>>
>> Guys
>>
>> I am prepared to glue today the doors halves, and just realised that Airc
raft Spruce didn't send me the Cab-o-Sil I had ordered last week.
>> I do have Cotton Fiber at hand, so my question is:
>> Can I use Cotton Fiber to thicken the gluing resin, instead of Cab-o-Sil?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Carlos
>>
>> Enviado do meu iPhone
>>
>> =========================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi
gator?RV10-List
>> =========================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> =========================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
n
>> =========================
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 12
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I have the stock Vans door seals on my bird, and they are not starting to fail
on me after 10 years.
Have any of you on the list found a good door seal for the -10?
Thanks - grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
Message 13
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I used what I think was a piper seal. Just a little square piece of memory foam
on the edge of the door. I have been flying since 2008, worked good for me.
I will try to find a reference. It would be best if you could find the material
elsewhere like mcmaster carr . The ones I got were certified and cost a lot
for what they are.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Miller
Sent: Wednesday, March 8, 2017 6:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door seals
I have the stock Vans door seals on my bird, and they are not starting to fail
on me after 10 years.
Have any of you on the list found a good door seal for the -10?
Thanks - grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
Message 14
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https://www.aircraftdoorseals.com/products/rv-experimental/
A little pricy. I attached to the door and not the frame. Right on the edge.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Miller
Sent: Wednesday, March 8, 2017 6:48 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Door seals
I have the stock Vans door seals on my bird, and they are not starting to fail
on me after 10 years.
Have any of you on the list found a good door seal for the -10?
Thanks - grumpy
N184JM
do not archive
Message 15
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I will second that recommendation. Does not require special modification
of door sill, can be made to work with uneven surfaces. Durable on the
doors, not so much if put on the frame.
On 3/8/2017 8:00 PM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
> https://www.aircraftdoorseals.com/products/rv-experimental/
>
> A little pricy. I attached to the door and not the frame. Right on the edge.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Miller
> Sent: Wednesday, March 8, 2017 6:48 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Door seals
>
>
> I have the stock Vans door seals on my bird, and they are not starting to fail
on me after 10 years.
>
> Have any of you on the list found a good door seal for the -10?
>
> Thanks - grumpy
> N184JM
>
> do not archive
>
>
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