Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:28 AM - Re: Impulse Coupler (Dan Masys)
2. 06:45 AM - Re: Re: Impulse Coupler (Tim Olson)
3. 08:33 AM - Re: Re: Impulse Coupler (P Reid)
4. 12:16 PM - Re: Impulse Coupler (Bob Turner)
5. 02:03 PM - Tailplane attach (Steven DeFord)
6. 02:26 PM - Re: Tailplane attach (Bob Turner)
7. 02:45 PM - Re: Tailplane attach (Rene)
8. 02:45 PM - Re: Tailplane attach (Rene)
9. 02:45 PM - Re: Tailplane attach (Tim Olson)
10. 02:56 PM - Re: Tailplane attach (Jesse Saint)
11. 04:33 PM - Re: Tailplane attach (g.combs)
12. 04:43 PM - Re: Tailplane attach (Rick Lark)
13. 07:09 PM - Re: Tailplane attach (Lenny Iszak)
14. 07:23 PM - Re: Tailplane attach (Lenny)
15. 07:26 PM - Re: Tailplane attach (Phillip Perry)
16. 07:35 PM - Re: Re: Tailplane attach (Tim Olson)
17. 08:11 PM - Re: Re: Tailplane attach (Steven DeFord)
18. 10:05 PM - Re: Tailplane attach (Lenny Iszak)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Impulse Coupler |
Same story on my -10. Flew it for about 400 hours without a Slick start and
without knowing I even needed one. Always started great cold, but became
increasingly hard to start hot, till I once had to just leave the plane
overnight at an outlying airport. No fun. The Slick start module plus
IRAN'd mags solved the problem, but interestingly the mags are just a bit
over 450 hrs since the last maintenance and it's getting increasingly hard
to start the bird when it's hot, again.
This time around on mag maintenance, am probably going to go with the
Surefly electronic mag replacement (https://www.surefly.net/ ), and am
tempted to replace the right (non-retard) mag and leave the left mag with
Slickstart, and wire it so both the electronic ignition and the retarded
timing mag are active at startup. Surefly fires at TDC below 400 rpm and
Slickstart retards to TDC and increases dwell when energized via starter
circuit, if I understand correctly.
Any reason not to have both mags firing at TDC at startup? Seems like it
would maximize the likelihood of at least one cylinder firing during hot
start operations.
-Dan Masys
N104LD 960 hrs TTSN
----------------------------
Time: 05:23:52 PM PST US
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Impulse Coupler
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
Most of the new starters really spin the engine with a good battery - enough
to
generate a spark from the mag without the need of any augmentation. See if
you
can find an old battery - one that barely spins the engine. And add in some
worn plugs, with gaps at their maximums instead of minimums. Does it still
start?
Here's the real test: For safety, pull all the plugs. Hook up plug#1 to the
harness,
and lay it on top of a cylinder where it has a good ground. Now slowly turn
the prop past TDC on #1. If you had an impulse mag you'd see it spark. With
no "slick start" you won't. Now repeat, but turn the prop faster and faster
until you see a spark. That's the minimum RPM you'll need to start the
engine.
You'd probably find it hard to hand-prop this engine. But maybe that's a
good thing?
duawil wrote:
> I dont understand the required part of this discussion. I have a Vans new
experimental
Lycoming D4A5 without the Slick start option and I have never had any
trouble starting. What am I missing?
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Impulse Coupler |
I have the impulse mag on the left and Lightspeed on the right
and have them both active for starting and it works well.
The lightspeed backs off the timing too, which makes this
OK. I'm guessing most electronic ignitions do this.
So your plan sounds good.
Tim
On 3/14/2017 8:24 AM, Dan Masys wrote:
>
> Same story on my -10. Flew it for about 400 hours without a Slick start and
> without knowing I even needed one. Always started great cold, but became
> increasingly hard to start hot, till I once had to just leave the plane
> overnight at an outlying airport. No fun. The Slick start module plus
> IRAN'd mags solved the problem, but interestingly the mags are just a bit
> over 450 hrs since the last maintenance and it's getting increasingly hard
> to start the bird when it's hot, again.
>
> This time around on mag maintenance, am probably going to go with the
> Surefly electronic mag replacement (https://www.surefly.net/ ), and am
> tempted to replace the right (non-retard) mag and leave the left mag with
> Slickstart, and wire it so both the electronic ignition and the retarded
> timing mag are active at startup. Surefly fires at TDC below 400 rpm and
> Slickstart retards to TDC and increases dwell when energized via starter
> circuit, if I understand correctly.
>
> Any reason not to have both mags firing at TDC at startup? Seems like it
> would maximize the likelihood of at least one cylinder firing during hot
> start operations.
>
> -Dan Masys
> N104LD 960 hrs TTSN
>
> ----------------------------
>
> Time: 05:23:52 PM PST US
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Impulse Coupler
> From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
>
>
> Most of the new starters really spin the engine with a good battery - enough
> to
> generate a spark from the mag without the need of any augmentation. See if
> you
> can find an old battery - one that barely spins the engine. And add in some
> worn plugs, with gaps at their maximums instead of minimums. Does it still
> start?
> Here's the real test: For safety, pull all the plugs. Hook up plug#1 to the
> harness,
> and lay it on top of a cylinder where it has a good ground. Now slowly turn
> the prop past TDC on #1. If you had an impulse mag you'd see it spark. With
> no "slick start" you won't. Now repeat, but turn the prop faster and faster
> until you see a spark. That's the minimum RPM you'll need to start the
> engine.
> You'd probably find it hard to hand-prop this engine. But maybe that's a
> good thing?
>
>
> duawil wrote:
>> I dont understand the required part of this discussion. I have a Vans new
> experimental
> Lycoming D4A5 without the Slick start option and I have never had any
> trouble starting. What am I missing?
>>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Impulse Coupler |
Dan;
Im around where you are in hours since maintenence. I don't have any issues with
starting however- no slickstart installed. I have always started with BOTH.
I have found BOTH makes starting easier than grounding one MAG. Yes, even with
hot starts.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Masys
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2017 6:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Impulse Coupler
Same story on my -10. Flew it for about 400 hours without a Slick start and without
knowing I even needed one. Always started great cold, but became increasingly
hard to start hot, till I once had to just leave the plane overnight at
an outlying airport. No fun. The Slick start module plus IRAN'd mags solved
the problem, but interestingly the mags are just a bit over 450 hrs since the
last maintenance and it's getting increasingly hard to start the bird when it's
hot, again.
This time around on mag maintenance, am probably going to go with the Surefly electronic mag replacement (https://www.surefly.net/ ), and am tempted to replace the right (non-retard) mag and leave the left mag with Slickstart, and wire it so both the electronic ignition and the retarded timing mag are active at startup. Surefly fires at TDC below 400 rpm and Slickstart retards to TDC and increases dwell when energized via starter circuit, if I understand correctly.
Any reason not to have both mags firing at TDC at startup? Seems like it would
maximize the likelihood of at least one cylinder firing during hot start operations.
-Dan Masys
N104LD 960 hrs TTSN
----------------------------
Time: 05:23:52 PM PST US
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Impulse Coupler
From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
Most of the new starters really spin the engine with a good battery - enough to
generate a spark from the mag without the need of any augmentation. See if you
can find an old battery - one that barely spins the engine. And add in some
worn plugs, with gaps at their maximums instead of minimums. Does it still start?
Here's the real test: For safety, pull all the plugs. Hook up plug#1 to the harness,
and lay it on top of a cylinder where it has a good ground. Now slowly turn
the prop past TDC on #1. If you had an impulse mag you'd see it spark. With
no "slick start" you won't. Now repeat, but turn the prop faster and faster
until you see a spark. That's the minimum RPM you'll need to start the engine.
You'd probably find it hard to hand-prop this engine. But maybe that's a good thing?
duawil wrote:
> I dont understand the required part of this discussion. I have a Vans
> new
experimental
Lycoming D4A5 without the Slick start option and I have never had any trouble starting.
What am I missing?
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Impulse Coupler |
rv10flyer(at)live.com wrote:
> Dan;
> Im around where you are in hours since maintenence. I don't have any issues with
starting however- no slickstart installed. I have always started with BOTH.
I have found BOTH makes starting easier than grounding one MAG. Yes, even with
hot starts.
>
> --
If you are starting with 'normal', e.g., non - retarded timing mags, there is a
risk of 'kick-back', where if rpm's are low enough and the mag fires at 25 deg
BTDC the prop will swing backwards - possibly breaking some teeth off the ring
gear or starter. ($$$)
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467299#467299
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| Subject: | Tailplane attach |
So, I've run into a couple hiccups on attaching the tailplane/trim/etc.
1) I've installed the HS as described, but the elevator horns hit the
forward stop a few degrees before the 35 deg down-elevator specified in the
manual. I have a degree or so more up-elevator travel than required. It's
almost as though the HS/elevators are too far forward relative to the whole
in the rear deck, but I've checked, and it's all according to plan. The
plans say I can file off some of the forward stop until it fits, but that
looks like some significant filing, to the point that it'd be almost up to
the heads of the universal rivets holding it on (and thus, in violation of
proper engineering specs for rivet support). Anyone have this problem, or
advice to solve it?
2) On a possibly related note, I can't wind on the elevator nut to the
elevator trim push-pull cable on the starboard side-- it doesn't stick out
far enough to spin the little panel on. (You'll recall that the port
push-pull cable is the one that's about an inch forward on the trim servo
install bracket.) Is something not done right? Should I drill out the pop
rivets used to install the welded nut onto the elevator close out panel,
wind it onto the push pull cable, and then re-rivet?
3) Random question-- where did you guys route your static source tubing
from the tail/how did you mount it? Anyone got pictures of this?
Thanks!
Steven DeFord
925-596-0246 (cell)
RivetedDragon@gmail.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Tailplane attach |
#3 is the easy one. Inside, immediately route the tubing up, and join left and
right sides in a T fitting as high up in the tail one as possible. This will minimize
water ingestion problems.
#2. My memory is that It wasn't easy to spin the nut/little panel on. Involved
some bending of the cable and/or undoing the other end to gain some slack, I'm
no longer sure what I did.
#1. My memory is that there was some allowed range for full elevator travel, not
just one number? Ask Vans. I've seen some installations where the stick hits
the panel, and the builder just said "I never need that much nose down elevator"
Not saying that's right, but ask Vans what the minimum down angle is. PS I
presume "in trail" was zero?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467306#467306
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| Subject: | Tailplane attach |
For number 2. I pulled it off and riveted itfast and
easy.
Rene'
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DeFord
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2017 3:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailplane attach
So, I've run into a couple hiccups on attaching the tailplane/trim/etc.
1) I've installed the HS as described, but the elevator horns hit the
forward stop a few degrees before the 35 deg down-elevator specified in
the manual. I have a degree or so more up-elevator travel than
required. It's almost as though the HS/elevators are too far forward
relative to the whole in the rear deck, but I've checked, and it's all
according to plan. The plans say I can file off some of the forward
stop until it fits, but that looks like some significant filing, to the
point that it'd be almost up to the heads of the universal rivets
holding it on (and thus, in violation of proper engineering specs for
rivet support). Anyone have this problem, or advice to solve it?
2) On a possibly related note, I can't wind on the elevator nut to the
elevator trim push-pull cable on the starboard side-- it doesn't stick
out far enough to spin the little panel on. (You'll recall that the
port push-pull cable is the one that's about an inch forward on the trim
servo install bracket.) Is something not done right? Should I drill
out the pop rivets used to install the welded nut onto the elevator
close out panel, wind it onto the push pull cable, and then re-rivet?
3) Random question-- where did you guys route your static source tubing
from the tail/how did you mount it? Anyone got pictures of this?
Thanks!
Steven DeFord
925-596-0246 (cell)
RivetedDragon@gmail.com <mailto:RivetedDragon@gmail.com>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Tailplane attach |
Number 1. I filed some of it away
Rene'
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DeFord
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2017 3:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailplane attach
So, I've run into a couple hiccups on attaching the tailplane/trim/etc.
1) I've installed the HS as described, but the elevator horns hit the
forward stop a few degrees before the 35 deg down-elevator specified in
the manual. I have a degree or so more up-elevator travel than
required. It's almost as though the HS/elevators are too far forward
relative to the whole in the rear deck, but I've checked, and it's all
according to plan. The plans say I can file off some of the forward
stop until it fits, but that looks like some significant filing, to the
point that it'd be almost up to the heads of the universal rivets
holding it on (and thus, in violation of proper engineering specs for
rivet support). Anyone have this problem, or advice to solve it?
2) On a possibly related note, I can't wind on the elevator nut to the
elevator trim push-pull cable on the starboard side-- it doesn't stick
out far enough to spin the little panel on. (You'll recall that the
port push-pull cable is the one that's about an inch forward on the trim
servo install bracket.) Is something not done right? Should I drill
out the pop rivets used to install the welded nut onto the elevator
close out panel, wind it onto the push pull cable, and then re-rivet?
3) Random question-- where did you guys route your static source tubing
from the tail/how did you mount it? Anyone got pictures of this?
Thanks!
Steven DeFord
925-596-0246 (cell)
RivetedDragon@gmail.com <mailto:RivetedDragon@gmail.com>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Tailplane attach |
I see Bob replied well to your questions so I'll make mine short...
Regarding #1, if you're looking at down-elevator, and the horns are
physically hitting the stops,
and you're within a couple degrees, I wouldn't sweat it too much. You'll
never find the need
to go farther than what you have if your nose down hits those stops. I
would say this
with a little more confidence because you said your up elevator is
within a degree or so of the
requirements....so your plane must be built pretty much right in line
with the expected
travels. If you had vast differences in both ends, I'd think maybe the
weldment was
not correct, but in your case I'd say go with it as it is. If you're
within a couple degrees
you'll be just fine. Before your first flight, maybe have another RV
guy look over all
your controls with you just as a second check...preferably an RV-10 guy.
Tim
On 3/14/2017 4:02 PM, Steven DeFord wrote:
> So, I've run into a couple hiccups on attaching the tailplane/trim/etc.
>
> 1) I've installed the HS as described, but the elevator horns hit the
> forward stop a few degrees before the 35 deg down-elevator specified
> in the manual. I have a degree or so more up-elevator travel than
> required. It's almost as though the HS/elevators are too far forward
> relative to the whole in the rear deck, but I've checked, and it's all
> according to plan. The plans say I can file off some of the forward
> stop until it fits, but that looks like some significant filing, to
> the point that it'd be almost up to the heads of the universal rivets
> holding it on (and thus, in violation of proper engineering specs for
> rivet support). Anyone have this problem, or advice to solve it?
>
> 2) On a possibly related note, I can't wind on the elevator nut to
> the elevator trim push-pull cable on the starboard side-- it doesn't
> stick out far enough to spin the little panel on. (You'll recall that
> the port push-pull cable is the one that's about an inch forward on
> the trim servo install bracket.) Is something not done right? Should
> I drill out the pop rivets used to install the welded nut onto the
> elevator close out panel, wind it onto the push pull cable, and then
> re-rivet?
>
> 3) Random question-- where did you guys route your static source
> tubing from the tail/how did you mount it? Anyone got pictures of this?
>
> Thanks!
> Steven DeFord
> 925-596-0246 (cell)
> RivetedDragon@gmail.com <mailto:RivetedDragon@gmail.com>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Tailplane attach |
1) I would recommend that you file as much as you can without going
beyond edge distance requirements on the rivets and see how much that
gives you.
2) Unscrew the 4 screws holding the plate under the HS attachment deck.
That will allow you to pull the cable out far enough to screw on the
plate. Then do the same on the other side.
3) Many different ways over the years. Usually attached to the bulkhead
with zipties to where the two sides meet and T off, then with edge
grommet through the lightening holes forward to conduit running under
the rear seat and baggage floor and then to the side panels forward.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
> On Mar 14, 2017, at 5:02 PM, Steven DeFord <riveteddragon@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
> So, I've run into a couple hiccups on attaching the
tailplane/trim/etc.
>
> 1) I've installed the HS as described, but the elevator horns hit the
forward stop a few degrees before the 35 deg down-elevator specified in
the manual. I have a degree or so more up-elevator travel than
required. It's almost as though the HS/elevators are too far forward
relative to the whole in the rear deck, but I've checked, and it's all
according to plan. The plans say I can file off some of the forward
stop until it fits, but that looks like some significant filing, to the
point that it'd be almost up to the heads of the universal rivets
holding it on (and thus, in violation of proper engineering specs for
rivet support). Anyone have this problem, or advice to solve it?
>
> 2) On a possibly related note, I can't wind on the elevator nut to
the elevator trim push-pull cable on the starboard side-- it doesn't
stick out far enough to spin the little panel on. (You'll recall that
the port push-pull cable is the one that's about an inch forward on the
trim servo install bracket.) Is something not done right? Should I
drill out the pop rivets used to install the welded nut onto the
elevator close out panel, wind it onto the push pull cable, and then
re-rivet?
>
> 3) Random question-- where did you guys route your static source
tubing from the tail/how did you mount it? Anyone got pictures of this?
>
> Thanks!
> Steven DeFord
> 925-596-0246 (cell)
> RivetedDragon@gmail.com <mailto:RivetedDragon@gmail.com>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Tailplane attach |
Steve I think 35 degrees of down is way to much. I believe the recommended a
mount of down is somewhere between 19 to 23 for
Down elevator.
Geoff
Sent from my iPhone
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Modeling & Design
> On Mar 14, 2017, at 5:02 PM, Steven DeFord <riveteddragon@gmail.com> wrote
:
>
> So, I've run into a couple hiccups on attaching the tailplane/trim/etc.
>
> 1) I've installed the HS as described, but the elevator horns hit the for
ward stop a few degrees before the 35 deg down-elevator specified in the man
ual. I have a degree or so more up-elevator travel than required. It's alm
ost as though the HS/elevators are too far forward relative to the whole in t
he rear deck, but I've checked, and it's all according to plan. The plans s
ay I can file off some of the forward stop until it fits, but that looks lik
e some significant filing, to the point that it'd be almost up to the heads o
f the universal rivets holding it on (and thus, in violation of proper engin
eering specs for rivet support). Anyone have this problem, or advice to sol
ve it?
>
> 2) On a possibly related note, I can't wind on the elevator nut to the el
evator trim push-pull cable on the starboard side-- it doesn't stick out far
enough to spin the little panel on. (You'll recall that the port push-pull
cable is the one that's about an inch forward on the trim servo install bra
cket.) Is something not done right? Should I drill out the pop rivets used
to install the welded nut onto the elevator close out panel, wind it onto t
he push pull cable, and then re-rivet?
>
> 3) Random question-- where did you guys route your static source tubing f
rom the tail/how did you mount it? Anyone got pictures of this?
>
> Thanks!
> Steven DeFord
> 925-596-0246 (cell)
> RivetedDragon@gmail.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Tailplane attach |
Steve, #1, I filed a bit to get the proper deflection. During my final
inspection the MDRA inspector (Canada) wanted to know what the angle was
supposed to be, to which he measured it to ensure it was per design
specifications.
#2 as others have said, keep working the cable, it should eventually
fit.
#3 again as other said, route both static sources up and
=9CT=9D it off to the front from there.
Good luck
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DeFord
Sent: March 14, 2017 4:03 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Tailplane attach
So, I've run into a couple hiccups on attaching the tailplane/trim/etc.
1) I've installed the HS as described, but the elevator horns hit the
forward stop a few degrees before the 35 deg down-elevator specified in
the manual. I have a degree or so more up-elevator travel than
required. It's almost as though the HS/elevators are too far forward
relative to the whole in the rear deck, but I've checked, and it's all
according to plan. The plans say I can file off some of the forward
stop until it fits, but that looks like some significant filing, to the
point that it'd be almost up to the heads of the universal rivets
holding it on (and thus, in violation of proper engineering specs for
rivet support). Anyone have this problem, or advice to solve it?
2) On a possibly related note, I can't wind on the elevator nut to the
elevator trim push-pull cable on the starboard side-- it doesn't stick
out far enough to spin the little panel on. (You'll recall that the
port push-pull cable is the one that's about an inch forward on the trim
servo install bracket.) Is something not done right? Should I drill
out the pop rivets used to install the welded nut onto the elevator
close out panel, wind it onto the push pull cable, and then re-rivet?
3) Random question-- where did you guys route your static source tubing
from the tail/how did you mount it? Anyone got pictures of this?
Thanks!
Steven DeFord
925-596-0246 (cell)
RivetedDragon@gmail.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Tailplane attach |
I just posted this image via email but it looks like it never made it to the list.
The Elevator tab at 35 degrees down is the elevator trim tab they are talking about
not the elevator itself.
--------
Lenny
N311LZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467317#467317
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Tailplane attach |
Here are the limits:
Lenny
> On Mar 14, 2017, at 7:33 PM, g.combs <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
wrote:
>
> Steve I think 35 degrees of down is way to much. I believe the
recommended amount of down is somewhere between 19 to 23 for
> Down elevator.
>
> Geoff
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Geoff Combs
> Aerosport Modeling & Design
>
>
>
>
> On Mar 14, 2017, at 5:02 PM, Steven DeFord <riveteddragon@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
>> So, I've run into a couple hiccups on attaching the
tailplane/trim/etc.
>>
>> 1) I've installed the HS as described, but the elevator horns hit
the forward stop a few degrees before the 35 deg down-elevator specified
in the manual. I have a degree or so more up-elevator travel than
required. It's almost as though the HS/elevators are too far forward
relative to the whole in the rear deck, but I've checked, and it's all
according to plan. The plans say I can file off some of the forward
stop until it fits, but that looks like some significant filing, to the
point that it'd be almost up to the heads of the universal rivets
holding it on (and thus, in violation of proper engineering specs for
rivet support). Anyone have this problem, or advice to solve it?
>>
>> 2) On a possibly related note, I can't wind on the elevator nut to
the elevator trim push-pull cable on the starboard side-- it doesn't
stick out far enough to spin the little panel on. (You'll recall that
the port push-pull cable is the one that's about an inch forward on the
trim servo install bracket.) Is something not done right? Should I
drill out the pop rivets used to install the welded nut onto the
elevator close out panel, wind it onto the push pull cable, and then
re-rivet?
>>
>> 3) Random question-- where did you guys route your static source
tubing from the tail/how did you mount it? Anyone got pictures of this?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Steven DeFord
>> 925-596-0246 (cell)
>> RivetedDragon@gmail.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Tailplane attach |
My takes.
#1 - Geoff sounds right about 35 deg. That sounds like way too much and I d
on't have my section 5 here to double check. But that doesn't seem right t
o me.
However, assuming its right, you mentioned that you had some extra up elevat
or and not enough down. I'd turn the elev pushrod bearings in a few more tu
rns until your up elevator is within spec and then recheck your down. You m
ight find that taking the extra off the top will give you enough on the bott
om.
I'd also caution you to not invest much time in reaching this spec until you
have the panel, switches, and push/pull cables, and sticks all installed. I
f they aren't installed, there's a good chance you're solving a problem that
you're only good to have to solve again later down the road with different r
igging and bent sticks.
#2 - Consider using screws to hold the base down. Just wind it on, then pu
t the screws in with a small wrench to hold the nuts. You might even be ab
le to use nut plates, but i used nuts and didn't have any issue getting them
in there.
#3 - Brought the pilot side port around the bulkhead and T'd into the Pax si
de port. Then brought the T'd line forward through the baggage bulkhead w
ith a snap bushing. Was sure to move the hole in the bulkhead far enough o
utboard so it didn't interfere with the bulkhead covers. Also far enough o
utboard to slip underneath the cover panel. I have Geoff's interior panels
and they cover that area directly above the longeron that you're staring at
when you open the baggage door. The line is slipped behind that and basica
lly follows the longeron forward (except as needed to route through a few ho
les along the way.)
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 14, 2017, at 4:44 PM, Rene <rene@felker.com> wrote:
>
> For number 2. I pulled it off and riveted itfast and ea
sy.
>
> Rene'
> 801-721-6080
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steven DeFord
> Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2017 3:03 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Tailplane attach
>
> So, I've run into a couple hiccups on attaching the tailplane/trim/etc.
>
> 1) I've installed the HS as described, but the elevator horns hit the for
ward stop a few degrees before the 35 deg down-elevator specified in the man
ual. I have a degree or so more up-elevator travel than required. It's alm
ost as though the HS/elevators are too far forward relative to the whole in t
he rear deck, but I've checked, and it's all according to plan. The plans s
ay I can file off some of the forward stop until it fits, but that looks lik
e some significant filing, to the point that it'd be almost up to the heads o
f the universal rivets holding it on (and thus, in violation of proper engin
eering specs for rivet support). Anyone have this problem, or advice to sol
ve it?
>
> 2) On a possibly related note, I can't wind on the elevator nut to the el
evator trim push-pull cable on the starboard side-- it doesn't stick out far
enough to spin the little panel on. (You'll recall that the port push-pull
cable is the one that's about an inch forward on the trim servo install bra
cket.) Is something not done right? Should I drill out the pop rivets used
to install the welded nut onto the elevator close out panel, wind it onto t
he push pull cable, and then re-rivet?
>
> 3) Random question-- where did you guys route your static source tubing f
rom the tail/how did you mount it? Anyone got pictures of this?
>
> Thanks!
> Steven DeFord
> 925-596-0246 (cell)
> RivetedDragon@gmail.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Tailplane attach |
Ah sure. For the trim tab you will for sure want good travel for tab down to ensure
you have full up-elevator travel and trim.
Tim
> On Mar 14, 2017, at 9:07 PM, Lenny Iszak <lenard@rapiddecision.com> wrote:
>
>
> I just posted this image via email but it looks like it never made it to the
list.
> The Elevator tab at 35 degrees down is the elevator trim tab they are talking
about not the elevator itself.
>
> --------
> Lenny
> N311LZ
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467317#467317
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/final_inspection_limits_167.png
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Tailplane attach |
Thank you-- I hadn't seen that page yet!
Steve
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 14, 2017, at 19:07, Lenny Iszak <lenard@rapiddecision.com> wrote:
>
>
> I just posted this image via email but it looks like it never made it to the
list.
> The Elevator tab at 35 degrees down is the elevator trim tab they are talking
about not the elevator itself.
>
> --------
> Lenny
> N311LZ
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467317#467317
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/final_inspection_limits_167.png
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Tailplane attach |
riveteddragon(at)gmail.co wrote:
> Thank you-- I hadn't seen that page yet!
>
> Steve
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
You're welcome! BTW in older kits that elevator trim nut used to have a crappy
weld on it. At the time i was working on mine (2008) there was an aftermarket
part available machined out of aluminum. Van's later fixed theirs. I attached
mine with #6 screws and locknuts, like Phil suggested.
--------
Lenny
N311LZ
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