Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:06 AM - Re: Chrome door hinges (johngoodman)
2. 09:43 AM - Re: Door seals (Alan Mekler MD)
3. 01:10 PM - Re: Door seals (Kelly McMullen)
4. 07:08 PM - W&B Configuration (Phillip Perry)
5. 07:26 PM - Re: W&B Configuration (P Reid)
6. 07:33 PM - Re: W&B Configuration (Kelly McMullen)
7. 07:51 PM - Re: Chrome door hinges (AirMike)
8. 08:27 PM - Re: W&B Configuration (David Saylor)
9. 09:05 PM - Re: W&B Configuration ()
10. 09:25 PM - Re: W&B Configuration (Danny Riggs)
11. 09:34 PM - Re: W&B Configuration (Bob Turner)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Chrome door hinges |
whodja wrote:
> Any feedback on chrome door hinges. Does anyone have a chrome shop recommendation?
There is a Chrome Shop on the West side of Atlanta that I used for my steps. Good
work, not cheap, and it took a month.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467626#467626
Message 2
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Installed the aircraft door seals on the door last sunday. It took two of use to
get the door to close. worse part was getting the silicone adhesive off the
door frame. Very slow with a razor blade.
Today took test flight. The door seal compressed and door opens and closes nicely
without ant trimming. Seal compresses well.
Only problem is cold air comes in at the top at the hinges. Any ideas hoe wo best
block this air flow?
Alan
N668G
> On Mar 20, 2017, at 3:56 PM, tom.on.the.road@juno.com wrote:
>
>
> I use a door seal like yours on my Lancair ES. 10 years since build,
> still functioning well (my decible level inside is equal to or less than
> many who are using the inflatible seals). Not to mention, mine costs
> less than $20.
>
> Tom
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> How To Remove Eye Bags & Lip Lines Fast (Watch)
> Womans Weekly
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/58d034291da9d342951a7st01vuc
>
>
>
Message 3
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You have to fabricate a cover over the door hinge at where the door
comes down, so the seal has something to compress against. I used scrap
fiberglass from trimming the window openings. Cut to fit, then bonded
with some super fill.
On 3/26/2017 9:41 AM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
>
> Installed the aircraft door seals on the door last sunday. It took two of use
to get the door to close. worse part was getting the silicone adhesive off the
door frame. Very slow with a razor blade.
> Today took test flight. The door seal compressed and door opens and closes nicely
without ant trimming. Seal compresses well.
> Only problem is cold air comes in at the top at the hinges. Any ideas hoe wo
best block this air flow?
> Alan
> N668G
>> On Mar 20, 2017, at 3:56 PM, tom.on.the.road@juno.com wrote:
>>
>>
>> I use a door seal like yours on my Lancair ES. 10 years since build,
>> still functioning well (my decible level inside is equal to or less than
>> many who are using the inflatible seals). Not to mention, mine costs
>> less than $20.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> ____________________________________________________________
>> How To Remove Eye Bags & Lip Lines Fast (Watch)
>> Womans Weekly
>> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/58d034291da9d342951a7st01vuc
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | W&B Configuration |
I'm about to zero in on having this thing on the scales in the next couple of days.
Reading the FAA circular, they mention that the sumo should be full. (12 Qts in
my case). Vans Section 5 is a little more vague.
I have a hard time seeing myself ever filling the sump with 12, just to watch it
get pumped right overboard and settle in around 8-9 on the stick.
What have you all done with regards to sump capacity when running your W&B? I'm
tempted to run it with full lines and 8 on the stick.
But I'm just curious to know what most of you have done with yours?
Sent from my iPhone
Message 5
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| Subject: | W&B Configuration |
I thought through how I would fly the plane (aka 8qts) and did the W&B based on
that assumption.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 7:07 PM
Subject: RV10-List: W&B Configuration
I'm about to zero in on having this thing on the scales in the next couple of days.
Reading the FAA circular, they mention that the sumo should be full. (12 Qts in
my case). Vans Section 5 is a little more vague.
I have a hard time seeing myself ever filling the sump with 12, just to watch it
get pumped right overboard and settle in around 8-9 on the stick.
What have you all done with regards to sump capacity when running your W&B? I'm
tempted to run it with full lines and 8 on the stick.
But I'm just curious to know what most of you have done with yours?
Sent from my iPhone
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: W&B Configuration |
Do it on a measured 8 qts. The quantity to full is known. You likely
will run it between 6 and 8 qts, depending on whether you have an
air/oil separator or not.
You can then prepare a separate W&B with full sump.
I also recommend you weigh it with fuel tanks dry, because you won't
know what the exact full quantity is, much less its weight that depends
on temperature.
On 3/26/2017 7:06 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> I'm about to zero in on having this thing on the scales in the next couple of
days.
>
> Reading the FAA circular, they mention that the sumo should be full. (12 Qts
in my case). Vans Section 5 is a little more vague.
>
> I have a hard time seeing myself ever filling the sump with 12, just to watch
it get pumped right overboard and settle in around 8-9 on the stick.
>
> What have you all done with regards to sump capacity when running your W&B?
I'm tempted to run it with full lines and 8 on the stick.
>
> But I'm just curious to know what most of you have done with yours?
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Chrome door hinges |
I highly recommend Sherm's in Sacramento CA for chrome plating.
Superb quality and excellent to deal with in all respects. Send detailed
pics and they will give you a quote.
--------
See you OSH '17
Q/B - flying 7 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467660#467660
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: W&B Configuration |
I do W&Bs in the most common empty configuration. So I'd weigh it with 8
or 9 qts.
If you want the data for "just in case", weigh it with 8 and then add 2
quarts. That should be enough to see the weight on a decent scale. Record
all your weights again and you'll have the data to extract the exact arm of
the oil. It's easy on a spreadsheet.
Same goes for pilot, pax, and baggage. Plop down in the seat while it's
still on the scales and you get the most accurate arm for your own self.
Put 50# in the center of the baggage compartment, and you can get that arm
too.
Another thing to consider is to make the datum an easy-to-find spot, like
the wing leading edge or the instrument panel or the front of the door.
Then when you want to actually measure something important some day, you
don't have to mess with some imaginary point out in front of the plane.
--Dave
On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 7:06 PM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I'm about to zero in on having this thing on the scales in the next couple
> of days.
>
> Reading the FAA circular, they mention that the sumo should be full. (12
> Qts in my case). Vans Section 5 is a little more vague.
>
> I have a hard time seeing myself ever filling the sump with 12, just to
> watch it get pumped right overboard and settle in around 8-9 on the stick.
>
> What have you all done with regards to sump capacity when running your
> W&B? I'm tempted to run it with full lines and 8 on the stick.
>
> But I'm just curious to know what most of you have done with yours?
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: W&B Configuration |
Hey guys,
Just curious here. Did I understand correctly that heating fuel changes
the weight ... ?? If so, could someone explain why that would be?
Thanks, =93 Lew
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: W&B Configuration |
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: W&B Configuration |
Lew Gallagher wrote:
> Hey guys,
>
> Just curious here. Did I understand correctly that heating fuel changes the
weight ... ?? If so, could someone explain why that would be?
>
> Thanks, Lew
Nearly all materials (water being different) expand when heated. So one gallon
of gas at some temperature might weigh exactly 6 pounds. Heat it up, it expands
and overflows the container. There is now less (by weight, or number of molecules)
gas in the one gallon container. In real life the aluminum fuel tank will
also expand, but it's an order of magnitude less than the expansion of the
gas. This is one reason jets (that carry huge amounts of gas) usually keep track
of the actual weight.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=467666#467666
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