Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:53 AM - Re: Prop Problems (Jesse Saint)
2. 05:59 AM - Re: Prop Problems (Bruce Hoppe)
3. 08:16 AM - Re: Prop Problems (Strasnuts)
4. 09:54 AM - Re: Prop Problems (rvdave)
5. 10:07 AM - Re: Re: Prop Problems (Tim Olson)
6. 12:02 PM - Re: Prop Problems (rvdave)
7. 03:19 PM - Re: Prop Problems (Bob Turner)
8. 04:31 PM - Re: Prop Problems (rvdave)
9. 04:53 PM - Re: Prop Problems (Vernon Franklin)
10. 05:47 PM - Re: Re: Prop Problems (Jesse Saint)
11. 05:55 PM - Re: Re: Prop Problems (John Trollinger)
12. 06:13 PM - Re: Re: Prop Problems (Vernon Franklin)
13. 06:14 PM - Re: Re: Prop Problems (Vernon Franklin)
14. 06:14 PM - Re: Re: Prop Problems (Jesse Saint)
15. 07:04 PM - Re: Re: Prop Problems (Kelly McMullen)
16. 07:13 PM - FYI update on NL Starter, rebuilt mags (and fresh plugs) (Bill Watson)
17. 07:19 PM - Re: Re: Prop Problems (Neal George)
18. 07:21 PM - Re: Re: Prop Problems (Jesse Saint)
19. 07:31 PM - Re: Re: Prop Problems (Jesse Saint)
20. 09:45 PM - Re: FYI update on NL Starter, rebuilt mags (and fresh plugs) (Peter)
21. 10:09 PM - Re: FYI update on NL Starter, rebuilt mags (and fresh plugs) (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
This is a common question I hear. Get it to at least 1800rpm, 2000 is better, then
pull the prop control and leave it out. It can take 30-60 seconds to get a
reaction in the prop the first time.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 22, 2017, at 9:55 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I started the engine for the first time today :)
>
> Everything was in the green, and looked really good. But when I went to test
the prop, it would not cycle.
>
> I have a hartzell gov, and the arm swing is good. Everything from the outside
looks like it should work. Everything is stock from Van's FWF or Lycoming.
>
> I definitely pulled the plug on the crank case, that isn't the issue. I just
don't know the first place to start looking.
>
> The only thing I can see from the outside, is this spacer between the governor
and the engine, maybe the teeth on the gear cannot reach far enough. See picture.
>
> <image.png>
>
> Anyone ever experience this?
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
As I mentioned last night, the governor supplied by Vans with the Hartzell prop
needs at least 2000 rpm to control the prop. That is what Hartzell told me and
is absolutely true. 1700 rpm does not work, 1800 rpm will not work. You must
be over 2000 rpm, which seems high, but your prop will cycle.
Bruce Hoppe
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 23, 2017, at 6:52 AM, Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com> wrote:
>
>
> This is a common question I hear. Get it to at least 1800rpm, 2000 is better,
then pull the prop control and leave it out. It can take 30-60 seconds to get
a reaction in the prop the first time.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Apr 22, 2017, at 9:55 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I started the engine for the first time today :)
>>
>> Everything was in the green, and looked really good. But when I went to test
the prop, it would not cycle.
>>
>> I have a hartzell gov, and the arm swing is good. Everything from the outside
looks like it should work. Everything is stock from Van's FWF or Lycoming.
>>
>> I definitely pulled the plug on the crank case, that isn't the issue. I just
don't know the first place to start looking.
>>
>> The only thing I can see from the outside, is this spacer between the governor
and the engine, maybe the teeth on the gear cannot reach far enough. See picture.
>>
>> <image.png>
>>
>> Anyone ever experience this?
>>
>> --
>> Vernon Franklin
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
One more thing to check.
Have two of you try to change the pitch with your hands manually. This is easily
accomplished with two people. Make sure the prop moves full range to the stops.
If you can't move it or it is really hard there might be hydraulic lock
in the prop due to a bad seal during construction. This happened to me. Usually
it's something simple but make sure. In my case it was a prop overhaul and
the oring was nicked. The prop cycled at first and then slowly went to a fixed
pitch prop in flight. It was bad because it wanted to over rev the engine
and I had to limp back to the airport. Luckily, I was close and didn't have
to add more power. Just a thought. Usually it is something more simple but an
easy check with two people.
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
780 Hours
SuperSTOL 60 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=468700#468700
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
I may be wrong but you said you pulled a plug from the crankshaft, did you mean
it had been set up for fp prop before?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=468701#468701
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
If it's a new engine, it will just come that way.
Tim
> On Apr 23, 2017, at 11:53 AM, rvdave <rv610dave@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I may be wrong but you said you pulled a plug from the crankshaft, did you mean
it had been set up for fp prop before?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 for sale
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=468701#468701
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
> If it's a new engine, it will just come that way.
> Tim
>
Do you mean set up for fp or with a plug in the end?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=468705#468705
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
rvdave wrote:
>
> > If it's a new engine, it will just come that way.
> > Tim
> >
>
>
> Do you mean set up for fp or with a plug in the end?
Mine was all set up for CS except that there was a plug an inch or so from the
forward end of the crankshaft. There are various ways to pull it.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=468709#468709
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
Mine came with a plug in the rear but only a plastic cap in the front which I removed.
I know to change a crank from cs to fp which I did on our 6 was to pierce the plug
in the rear and add a plug to the front, that's why I was wondering.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 for sale
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=468710#468710
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. All of you were correct, it came down
to RPM. Alex DeDominicis dropped by earlier as I was outside trying to get
things to work. I told him the situation and ran it up with him outside.
He said there was no way the engine was running at 2000 RPM, so he
proceeded to jump in and pushed the throttle up beyond were I had gone
yet. At around 3800 RPM... The prop finally engaged. After nearly having
a heart attack, he said that was closer to 1900 to 2000 RPM. So it seems
my Dynon EMS is doubling the RPM for some reason, need to do some more
research.
Prop problem solved, on to the next one!
Thanks for the input, you guys nailed it.
Vernon
On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 8:55 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com>
wrote:
> I started the engine for the first time today :)
>
> Everything was in the green, and looked really good. But when I went to
> test the prop, it would not cycle.
>
> I have a hartzell gov, and the arm swing is good. Everything from the
> outside looks like it should work. Everything is stock from Van's FWF or
> Lycoming.
>
> I definitely pulled the plug on the crank case, that isn't the issue. I
> just don't know the first place to start looking.
>
> The only thing I can see from the outside, is this spacer between the
> governor and the engine, maybe the teeth on the gear cannot reach far
> enough. See picture.
>
> [image: Inline image 1]
>
> Anyone ever experience this?
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
>
--
Vernon Franklin
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
If you go into settings, then to calibration (bottom option on the main sett
ings list), then to EMS Calibration, then to RPM, change the pulses per revo
lution. Depending on your ignition system, there will be different pulses pe
r revolution. If it's reading double, then double your pulses per revolution
and that should fix it. Easy peasy.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 23, 2017, at 7:52 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com> w
rote:
>
> Thanks everyone for the suggestions. All of you were correct, it came dow
n to RPM. Alex DeDominicis dropped by earlier as I was outside trying to ge
t things to work. I told him the situation and ran it up with him outside. H
e said there was no way the engine was running at 2000 RPM, so he proceeded t
o jump in and pushed the throttle up beyond were I had gone yet. At around 3
800 RPM... The prop finally engaged. After nearly having a heart attack, he
said that was closer to 1900 to 2000 RPM. So it seems my Dynon EMS is doub
ling the RPM for some reason, need to do some more research.
>
> Prop problem solved, on to the next one!
>
> Thanks for the input, you guys nailed it.
>
> Vernon
>
>
>> On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 8:55 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.c
om> wrote:
>> I started the engine for the first time today :)
>>
>> Everything was in the green, and looked really good. But when I went to t
est the prop, it would not cycle.
>>
>> I have a hartzell gov, and the arm swing is good. Everything from the ou
tside looks like it should work. Everything is stock from Van's FWF or Lyco
ming.
>>
>> I definitely pulled the plug on the crank case, that isn't the issue. I j
ust don't know the first place to start looking.
>>
>> The only thing I can see from the outside, is this spacer between the gov
ernor and the engine, maybe the teeth on the gear cannot reach far enough. S
ee picture.
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyone ever experience this?
>>
>> --
>> Vernon Franklin
>
>
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
How are you getting RPM, a sensor on the mag?
On Sun, Apr 23, 2017 at 8:08 PM Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Thanks everyone for the suggestions. All of you were correct, it came
> down to RPM. Alex DeDominicis dropped by earlier as I was outside trying
> to get things to work. I told him the situation and ran it up with him
> outside. He said there was no way the engine was running at 2000 RPM, so he
> proceeded to jump in and pushed the throttle up beyond were I had gone
> yet. At around 3800 RPM... The prop finally engaged. After nearly having
> a heart attack, he said that was closer to 1900 to 2000 RPM. So it seems
> my Dynon EMS is doubling the RPM for some reason, need to do some more
> research.
>
> Prop problem solved, on to the next one!
>
> Thanks for the input, you guys nailed it.
>
> Vernon
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 8:55 PM, Vernon Franklin <
> vernon.franklin@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I started the engine for the first time today :)
>>
>> Everything was in the green, and looked really good. But when I went to
>> test the prop, it would not cycle.
>>
>> I have a hartzell gov, and the arm swing is good. Everything from the
>> outside looks like it should work. Everything is stock from Van's FWF or
>> Lycoming.
>>
>> I definitely pulled the plug on the crank case, that isn't the issue. I
>> just don't know the first place to start looking.
>>
>> The only thing I can see from the outside, is this spacer between the
>> governor and the engine, maybe the teeth on the gear cannot reach far
>> enough. See picture.
>>
>> [image: Inline image 1]
>>
>> Anyone ever experience this?
>>
>> --
>> Vernon Franklin
>>
>
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
Sensor on the P-lead of each slick.
Vernon
On Apr 23, 2017 8:00 PM, "John Trollinger" <john@trollingers.com> wrote:
How are you getting RPM, a sensor on the mag?
On Sun, Apr 23, 2017 at 8:08 PM Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com>
wrote:
> Thanks everyone for the suggestions. All of you were correct, it came
> down to RPM. Alex DeDominicis dropped by earlier as I was outside trying
> to get things to work. I told him the situation and ran it up with him
> outside. He said there was no way the engine was running at 2000 RPM, so he
> proceeded to jump in and pushed the throttle up beyond were I had gone
> yet. At around 3800 RPM... The prop finally engaged. After nearly having
> a heart attack, he said that was closer to 1900 to 2000 RPM. So it seems
> my Dynon EMS is doubling the RPM for some reason, need to do some more
> research.
>
> Prop problem solved, on to the next one!
>
> Thanks for the input, you guys nailed it.
>
> Vernon
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 8:55 PM, Vernon Franklin <
> vernon.franklin@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I started the engine for the first time today :)
>>
>> Everything was in the green, and looked really good. But when I went to
>> test the prop, it would not cycle.
>>
>> I have a hartzell gov, and the arm swing is good. Everything from the
>> outside looks like it should work. Everything is stock from Van's FWF or
>> Lycoming.
>>
>> I definitely pulled the plug on the crank case, that isn't the issue. I
>> just don't know the first place to start looking.
>>
>> The only thing I can see from the outside, is this spacer between the
>> governor and the engine, maybe the teeth on the gear cannot reach far
>> enough. See picture.
>>
>> [image: Inline image 1]
>>
>> Anyone ever experience this?
>>
>> --
>> Vernon Franklin
>>
>
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
Perfect thank you.
Vernon
On Apr 23, 2017 7:52 PM, "Jesse Saint" <jesse@saintaviation.com> wrote:
If you go into settings, then to calibration (bottom option on the main
settings list), then to EMS Calibration, then to RPM, change the pulses per
revolution. Depending on your ignition system, there will be different
pulses per revolution. If it's reading double, then double your pulses per
revolution and that should fix it. Easy peasy.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285 <(352)%20427-0285>
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 23, 2017, at 7:52 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com>
wrote:
Thanks everyone for the suggestions. All of you were correct, it came down
to RPM. Alex DeDominicis dropped by earlier as I was outside trying to get
things to work. I told him the situation and ran it up with him outside.
He said there was no way the engine was running at 2000 RPM, so he
proceeded to jump in and pushed the throttle up beyond were I had gone
yet. At around 3800 RPM... The prop finally engaged. After nearly having
a heart attack, he said that was closer to 1900 to 2000 RPM. So it seems
my Dynon EMS is doubling the RPM for some reason, need to do some more
research.
Prop problem solved, on to the next one!
Thanks for the input, you guys nailed it.
Vernon
On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 8:55 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com>
wrote:
> I started the engine for the first time today :)
>
> Everything was in the green, and looked really good. But when I went to
> test the prop, it would not cycle.
>
> I have a hartzell gov, and the arm swing is good. Everything from the
> outside looks like it should work. Everything is stock from Van's FWF or
> Lycoming.
>
> I definitely pulled the plug on the crank case, that isn't the issue. I
> just don't know the first place to start looking.
>
> The only thing I can see from the outside, is this spacer between the
> governor and the engine, maybe the teeth on the gear cannot reach far
> enough. See picture.
>
> [image: Inline image 1]
>
> Anyone ever experience this?
>
> --
> Vernon Franklin
>
--
Vernon Franklin
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
With Dynon it is usually a wire to the p-lead with a resistor.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 23, 2017, at 8:54 PM, John Trollinger <john@trollingers.com> wrote:
>
> How are you getting RPM, a sensor on the mag?
>
>
>> On Sun, Apr 23, 2017 at 8:08 PM Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.co
m> wrote:
>> Thanks everyone for the suggestions. All of you were correct, it came do
wn to RPM. Alex DeDominicis dropped by earlier as I was outside trying to g
et things to work. I told him the situation and ran it up with him outside.
He said there was no way the engine was running at 2000 RPM, so he proceede
d to jump in and pushed the throttle up beyond were I had gone yet. At arou
nd 3800 RPM... The prop finally engaged. After nearly having a heart attack
, he said that was closer to 1900 to 2000 RPM. So it seems my Dynon EMS is d
oubling the RPM for some reason, need to do some more research.
>>
>> Prop problem solved, on to the next one!
>>
>> Thanks for the input, you guys nailed it.
>>
>> Vernon
>>
>>
>>> On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 8:55 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.
com> wrote:
>>> I started the engine for the first time today :)
>>>
>>> Everything was in the green, and looked really good. But when I went to
test the prop, it would not cycle.
>>>
>>> I have a hartzell gov, and the arm swing is good. Everything from the o
utside looks like it should work. Everything is stock from Van's FWF or Lyc
oming.
>>>
>>> I definitely pulled the plug on the crank case, that isn't the issue. I
just don't know the first place to start looking.
>>>
>>> The only thing I can see from the outside, is this spacer between the go
vernor and the engine, maybe the teeth on the gear cannot reach far enough.
See picture.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Anyone ever experience this?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Vernon Franklin
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Vernon Franklin
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
Agreed. The Dynon default is 1 for four cylinder engines. You need 1.5
for six cylinder. Not sure why you would be getting double actual if you
had the default 4 cyl setting. Make sure you have the approx 30K
resistor in the line between EMS and P-lead. Can need higher if there
are some spikes seen.
On 4/23/2017 6:13 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
> With Dynon it is usually a wire to the p-lead with a resistor.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> 352-427-0285
> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 23, 2017, at 8:54 PM, John Trollinger <john@trollingers.com
> <mailto:john@trollingers.com>> wrote:
>
>> How are you getting RPM, a sensor on the mag?
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 23, 2017 at 8:08 PM Vernon Franklin
>> <vernon.franklin@gmail.com <mailto:vernon.franklin@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks everyone for the suggestions. All of you were correct, it
>> came down to RPM. Alex DeDominicis dropped by earlier as I was
>> outside trying to get things to work. I told him the situation
>> and ran it up with him outside. He said there was no way the
>> engine was running at 2000 RPM, so he proceeded to jump in and
>> pushed the throttle up beyond were I had gone yet. At around 3800
>> RPM... The prop finally engaged. After nearly having a heart
>> attack, he said that was closer to 1900 to 2000 RPM. So it seems
>> my Dynon EMS is doubling the RPM for some reason, need to do some
>> more research.
>>
>> Prop problem solved, on to the next one!
>>
>> Thanks for the input, you guys nailed it.
>>
>> Vernon
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 8:55 PM, Vernon Franklin
>> <vernon.franklin@gmail.com <mailto:vernon.franklin@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>> I started the engine for the first time today :)
>>
>> Everything was in the green, and looked really good. But when
>> I went to test the prop, it would not cycle.
>>
>> I have a hartzell gov, and the arm swing is good. Everything
>> from the outside looks like it should work. Everything is
>> stock from Van's FWF or Lycoming.
>>
>> I definitely pulled the plug on the crank case, that isn't the
>> issue. I just don't know the first place to start looking.
>>
>> The only thing I can see from the outside, is this spacer
>> between the governor and the engine, maybe the teeth on the
>> gear cannot reach far enough. See picture.
>>
>> Inline image 1
>>
>> Anyone ever experience this?
>>
>> --
>> Vernon Franklin
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Vernon Franklin
>>
Message 16
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| Subject: | FYI update on NL Starter, rebuilt mags (and fresh plugs) |
I was never happy with the light weight starter that shipped with the
Vans configured Lycoming. As others have reported, getting the first
blade to turn over always seemed in question. I have two batteries
which I can apply separately or together to the starter. Replacing the
light weight starter with NL starter made a world of difference. It
turns a bit slower but with authority. And though I always intend to use
both batts for the start, I accidentally did a 1 battery start today and
got the same slower but authoritative start. Confidence boosted -
Dollars well spent.
I also swapped out my original Slicks at 860 hours for rebuilts.
Everything was running fine but some recommend overhaul or replacement
at 500 hours. Though I didn't expect it, the engine runs noticeably
smoother (the old mags had just been timed before they were replaced so
the the comparison was meaningful). Again, confidence boosted - dollars
well spent.
Back at 700 hours I completed replacement of all the original plugs with
new ones (the final 5 of 12). The engine ran noticeably smoother and
possibly with more oomph. Up to that point, I had cleaned and gapped
the plugs at every Condition Inspection. Going forward, I plan to
change plugs at 500 to 600 hours.
Just FYI, YMMV.
---
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
Not having studied the Dynon manuals, my guess would be that two pick-ups (one
on each P-lead) are combining to double the reading.
Neal George
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 24, 2017, at 10:03 AM
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
I was thinking the same thing. If the setting is 1 and needs to be 1.5, then 2,000
rpm would read as 3,000. If it was set at .5, then it would be triple instead
of double. Either way, it should be made correct by adjusting the pulses per
revolution.
Also, in my instructions, I was assuming it was Skyview. The D120/D180/D10 would
be different.
Give me a call tomorrow or the next time you are at he plane and I can walk you
through the setup.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 23, 2017, at 10:03 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
>
>
> Agreed. The Dynon default is 1 for four cylinder engines. You need 1.5 for six
cylinder. Not sure why you would be getting double actual if you had the default
4 cyl setting. Make sure you have the approx 30K resistor in the line between
EMS and P-lead. Can need higher if there are some spikes seen.
>
>> On 4/23/2017 6:13 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>> With Dynon it is usually a wire to the p-lead with a resistor.
>> Jesse Saint
>> Saint Aviation, Inc.
>> 352-427-0285
>> jesse@saintaviation.com <mailto:jesse@saintaviation.com>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>> On Apr 23, 2017, at 8:54 PM, John Trollinger <john@trollingers.com <mailto:john@trollingers.com>> wrote:
>>> How are you getting RPM, a sensor on the mag?
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Apr 23, 2017 at 8:08 PM Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com <mailto:vernon.franklin@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for the suggestions. All of you were correct, it
>>> came down to RPM. Alex DeDominicis dropped by earlier as I was
>>> outside trying to get things to work. I told him the situation
>>> and ran it up with him outside. He said there was no way the
>>> engine was running at 2000 RPM, so he proceeded to jump in and
>>> pushed the throttle up beyond were I had gone yet. At around 3800
>>> RPM... The prop finally engaged. After nearly having a heart
>>> attack, he said that was closer to 1900 to 2000 RPM. So it seems
>>> my Dynon EMS is doubling the RPM for some reason, need to do some
>>> more research.
>>>
>>> Prop problem solved, on to the next one!
>>>
>>> Thanks for the input, you guys nailed it.
>>>
>>> Vernon
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 8:55 PM, Vernon Franklin
>>> <vernon.franklin@gmail.com <mailto:vernon.franklin@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I started the engine for the first time today :)
>>>
>>> Everything was in the green, and looked really good. But when
>>> I went to test the prop, it would not cycle.
>>>
>>> I have a hartzell gov, and the arm swing is good. Everything
>>> from the outside looks like it should work. Everything is
>>> stock from Van's FWF or Lycoming.
>>>
>>> I definitely pulled the plug on the crank case, that isn't the
>>> issue. I just don't know the first place to start looking.
>>>
>>> The only thing I can see from the outside, is this spacer
>>> between the governor and the engine, maybe the teeth on the
>>> gear cannot reach far enough. See picture.
>>>
>>> Inline image 1
>>>
>>> Anyone ever experience this?
>>>
>>> -- Vernon Franklin
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- Vernon Franklin
>>>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Problems |
Make sure you have the 30k ohm resistor inline on both the white/green and w
hite/blue wires close to where they tie to the p-lead, then follow this (6-c
yl should be either 1.5 or 3.0 based on this):
Increment or decrement the PULS/REV R and L values to correspond to the numb
er of pulses put out by your tachometer source for each engine revolution. Y
ou may select the pulses/rev for both the left and right tachometer inputs i
ndependently. If they are both p-lead inputs, these will likely be the same n
umber. However, if you have connected two different types of tachometer sour
ces, you will likely have to input different values into these fields. If yo
u are using a p-lead connection, the PULS/REV value will typically be set to
1=81=842 or 1=81=844 of the number of cylinders in the engine. If you
find that the onscreen tachometer reads double or half what you expect, adj
ust the PULS/REV value until you observe the expected value. If you do not h
ave anything hooked to one of the tachometer inputs, the PULS/REV setting fo
r this input can be set to any value. The FlightDEK-D180 will automatically i
gnore this unused input
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 23, 2017, at 9:12 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.com> w
rote:
>
> Sensor on the P-lead of each slick.
>
> Vernon
>
> On Apr 23, 2017 8:00 PM, "John Trollinger" <john@trollingers.com> wrote:
> How are you getting RPM, a sensor on the mag?
>
>
>> On Sun, Apr 23, 2017 at 8:08 PM Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.co
m> wrote:
>> Thanks everyone for the suggestions. All of you were correct, it came do
wn to RPM. Alex DeDominicis dropped by earlier as I was outside trying to g
et things to work. I told him the situation and ran it up with him outside.
He said there was no way the engine was running at 2000 RPM, so he proceede
d to jump in and pushed the throttle up beyond were I had gone yet. At arou
nd 3800 RPM... The prop finally engaged. After nearly having a heart attack
, he said that was closer to 1900 to 2000 RPM. So it seems my Dynon EMS is d
oubling the RPM for some reason, need to do some more research.
>>
>> Prop problem solved, on to the next one!
>>
>> Thanks for the input, you guys nailed it.
>>
>> Vernon
>>
>>
>>> On Sat, Apr 22, 2017 at 8:55 PM, Vernon Franklin <vernon.franklin@gmail.
com> wrote:
>>> I started the engine for the first time today :)
>>>
>>> Everything was in the green, and looked really good. But when I went to
test the prop, it would not cycle.
>>>
>>> I have a hartzell gov, and the arm swing is good. Everything from the o
utside looks like it should work. Everything is stock from Van's FWF or Lyc
oming.
>>>
>>> I definitely pulled the plug on the crank case, that isn't the issue. I
just don't know the first place to start looking.
>>>
>>> The only thing I can see from the outside, is this spacer between the go
vernor and the engine, maybe the teeth on the gear cannot reach far enough.
See picture.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Anyone ever experience this?
>>>
>>> --
>>> Vernon Franklin
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Vernon Franklin
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: FYI update on NL Starter, rebuilt mags (and fresh plugs) |
Did you heard about Mike Busch? I saw that he measured the resistance between the
mass electrode and the bottom in the spark plugs where the ignition cabel springs
get contact. Many of the standard champion plugs read resistance way higher
than it should be (1-2kohms). He recommends to change the plugs when resistance
readings are more than 5kohms.
Peter Aringer
RV-10 empennage started in Germany in 2017-01
Aringer Automobiltechnik e.K.
Chrysler, Jeep & Dodge Service
Lancia & Brilliance Service
Mit freundlichen Gren / Kind regards
Peter Aringer
Inhaber
Aringer Automobiltechnik e.K.
Chrysler, Jeep & Dodge Service
Lancia & Brilliance Service
> Am 24.04.2017 um 09:23 schrieb Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>:
>
>
> I was never happy with the light weight starter that shipped with the
> Vans configured Lycoming. As others have reported, getting the first
> blade to turn over always seemed in question. I have two batteries
> which I can apply separately or together to the starter. Replacing the
> light weight starter with NL starter made a world of difference. It
> turns a bit slower but with authority. And though I always intend to use
> both batts for the start, I accidentally did a 1 battery start today and
> got the same slower but authoritative start. Confidence boosted -
> Dollars well spent.
>
> I also swapped out my original Slicks at 860 hours for rebuilts.
> Everything was running fine but some recommend overhaul or replacement
> at 500 hours. Though I didn't expect it, the engine runs noticeably
> smoother (the old mags had just been timed before they were replaced so
> the the comparison was meaningful). Again, confidence boosted - dollars
> well spent.
>
> Back at 700 hours I completed replacement of all the original plugs with
> new ones (the final 5 of 12). The engine ran noticeably smoother and
> possibly with more oomph. Up to that point, I had cleaned and gapped
> the plugs at every Condition Inspection. Going forward, I plan to
> change plugs at 500 to 600 hours.
>
> Just FYI, YMMV.
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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>
>
>
>
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: FYI update on NL Starter, rebuilt mags (and fresh plugs) |
The standard recommendation on conventional mags is to inspect and repair
as necessary at 500 hours, overhaul at 1000 hours. However pricing of parts
for Slicks tends to lead to lead to replacement rather than overhaul, or to
only do one overhaul. Normal massive plugs usually have worn the electrodes
thin enough that they should be replaced at 400-500 hours. Not to mention
that Champions tend to have a fair number reach excessive resistance at
less than 400 hours. I've had one fail already with less than 100
hour....resistance at 7.5K ohms. High resistance plugs will be somewhat
intermittent and stress the mags because a higher voltage is needed to
create the spark.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Sun, Apr 23, 2017 at 7:12 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> I was never happy with the light weight starter that shipped with the Vans
> configured Lycoming. As others have reported, getting the first blade to
> turn over always seemed in question. I have two batteries which I can
> apply separately or together to the starter. Replacing the light weight
> starter with NL starter made a world of difference. It turns a bit slower
> but with authority. And though I always intend to use both batts for the
> start, I accidentally did a 1 battery start today and got the same slower
> but authoritative start. Confidence boosted - Dollars well spent.
>
> I also swapped out my original Slicks at 860 hours for rebuilts.
> Everything was running fine but some recommend overhaul or replacement at
> 500 hours. Though I didn't expect it, the engine runs noticeably smoother
> (the old mags had just been timed before they were replaced so the the
> comparison was meaningful). Again, confidence boosted - dollars well spent.
>
> Back at 700 hours I completed replacement of all the original plugs with
> new ones (the final 5 of 12). The engine ran noticeably smoother and
> possibly with more oomph. Up to that point, I had cleaned and gapped the
> plugs at every Condition Inspection. Going forward, I plan to change plugs
> at 500 to 600 hours.
>
> Just FYI, YMMV.
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
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