Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:43 AM - Removing cylinder head flashing (David Carr)
2. 09:53 AM - Re: Removing cylinder head flashing (Tim Olson)
3. 01:14 PM - Re: Removing cylinder head flashing (Kelly McMullen)
4. 01:29 PM - Re: Removing cylinder head flashing (Tim Olson)
5. 01:42 PM - Re: Removing cylinder head flashing (Kelly McMullen)
6. 02:00 PM - Re: Removing cylinder head flashing (Bob Turner)
7. 02:11 PM - Re: Removing cylinder head flashing (Tim Olson)
8. 02:40 PM - Re: Removing cylinder head flashing (Deems Davis)
9. 03:38 PM - Re: Removing cylinder head flashing (Bruce Hoppe)
10. 04:48 PM - Re: Removing cylinder head flashing (Kelly McMullen)
11. 07:50 PM - Re: Removing cylinder head flashing (Kelly McMullen)
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| Subject: | Removing cylinder head flashing |
Hi list,
What are your favorite techniques/tools for removing the cylinder head
flashing (near the top spark plug)?
So far I've discovered Tim's approach using an extension drill like an end
mill and also a suggestion to try modifying a hacksaw rod blade into long
rotary burr.
Thanks for your input,
David
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| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
I found a small thin file at our local farm store that fits nicely if the gap isn't
completely closed.
I song have the info but it was maybe 6-8" long and maybe at most 1/2" wide and
about 1/16" thick or so. That worked well.
Tim
> On Jun 23, 2017, at 11:38 AM, David Carr <junk@dcarr.org> wrote:
>
> Hi list,
>
> What are your favorite techniques/tools for removing the cylinder head flashing
(near the top spark plug)?
>
> So far I've discovered Tim's approach using an extension drill like an end mill
and also a suggestion to try modifying a hacksaw rod blade into long rotary
burr.
>
> Thanks for your input,
> David
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| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
I had good luck with one of my 3/32 (#40) drill bits, 6" long. Just made
multiple passes and then worked it back and forth somewhat. I can't say
I have seen significant difference, but with OAT around 100 for 9 am
takeoff, and 80 at 6500 and 70 at 9500..I'll have to wait for some more
normal temps to compare.
Tim, did you notice much benefit from the RTV between the cylinders,
where you closed the gap?
On 6/23/2017 9:53 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I found a small thin file at our local farm store that fits nicely if the gap
isn't completely closed.
> I song have the info but it was maybe 6-8" long and maybe at most 1/2" wide and
about 1/16" thick or so. That worked well.
> Tim
>
>> On Jun 23, 2017, at 11:38 AM, David Carr <junk@dcarr.org> wrote:
>>
>> Hi list,
>>
>> What are your favorite techniques/tools for removing the cylinder head flashing
(near the top spark plug)?
>>
>> So far I've discovered Tim's approach using an extension drill like an end mill
and also a suggestion to try modifying a hacksaw rod blade into long rotary
burr.
>>
>> Thanks for your input,
>> David
>
>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
I didn't really have a good way to tell, sorry. The problem is, when I
attacked the
CHT issue, I did everything at once, so I can't say that one thing was
far better than any other. The Cylinder flashing issue was a definite
problem though...you could just see it. Funny that my IO-390 cylinders
from Lycoming didn't need any work at all. Maybe these days they
do a better job, or maybe they do a better job than ECI did.
My real remaining thing I'd some day like to improve is Oil temps.
Interestingly, it used to be my CHT's that were the issue, not oil temps.
Then after fixing the CHT's, now if there is anything that limits me
from climbs on hot days it's oil temps. I set my alarm at 216F to come
on and get me to do something. I don't ever let it get over 225F
without great reason. I may have seen 235F one or two times in
1250 hours. By keeping speeds of 125kts in climb I can almost
do whatever I want, but I would prefer to be able to have my oil
temps stay under 210F even in 115kt climbs...and always be
in the 190's when straight and level.
I may just have to get into a small cowl mod to add an extra exit
scoop or something under that oil cooler. It's not a highly pressing
issue, but would be nice to deal with for any flights out West in
the warm months, mainly.
Tim
On 6/23/2017 3:13 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> I had good luck with one of my 3/32 (#40) drill bits, 6" long. Just
> made multiple passes and then worked it back and forth somewhat. I
> can't say I have seen significant difference, but with OAT around 100
> for 9 am takeoff, and 80 at 6500 and 70 at 9500..I'll have to wait for
> some more normal temps to compare.
> Tim, did you notice much benefit from the RTV between the cylinders,
> where you closed the gap?
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
Very interesting. I replaced my louvers in front of the exhaust pipes
with the Anti-Splat cowl flaps. This was first supported by putting 1/2"
deflector in front of the louvers, which made a noticeable improvement.
with the cowl flaps, temps are a bit lower, maybe as good as with the
deflector in front of louvers(which would have been a lot cheaper and
easier to stick with). However, where my oil temps had been fine, now
mine are like yours. I did the flashing removal, but haven't tried the
RTV yet. I just need to get my cockpit flow back to where it was flying
the Mooney....cowl flaps open for takeoff and climb. Level off, and then
close cowl flaps. Open them up as come into pattern to keep CHTs from
climbing again. I may eventually decide to install one of the louvers I
removed, right under the oil cooler.
Your IO-390 cylinders should be perfect...they should be perfect. I
don't know if you have priced them, but they are almost double the price
of regular 360 angle valve cylinders.
On 6/23/2017 1:29 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I didn't really have a good way to tell, sorry. The problem is, when I
> attacked the
> CHT issue, I did everything at once, so I can't say that one thing was
> far better than any other. The Cylinder flashing issue was a definite
> problem though...you could just see it. Funny that my IO-390 cylinders
> from Lycoming didn't need any work at all. Maybe these days they
> do a better job, or maybe they do a better job than ECI did.
>
> My real remaining thing I'd some day like to improve is Oil temps.
> Interestingly, it used to be my CHT's that were the issue, not oil temps.
> Then after fixing the CHT's, now if there is anything that limits me
> from climbs on hot days it's oil temps. I set my alarm at 216F to come
> on and get me to do something. I don't ever let it get over 225F
> without great reason. I may have seen 235F one or two times in
> 1250 hours. By keeping speeds of 125kts in climb I can almost
> do whatever I want, but I would prefer to be able to have my oil
> temps stay under 210F even in 115kt climbs...and always be
> in the 190's when straight and level.
>
> I may just have to get into a small cowl mod to add an extra exit
> scoop or something under that oil cooler. It's not a highly pressing
> issue, but would be nice to deal with for any flights out West in
> the warm months, mainly.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 6/23/2017 3:13 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>> I had good luck with one of my 3/32 (#40) drill bits, 6" long. Just
>> made multiple passes and then worked it back and forth somewhat. I
>> can't say I have seen significant difference, but with OAT around 100
>> for 9 am takeoff, and 80 at 6500 and 70 at 9500..I'll have to wait for
>> some more normal temps to compare.
>> Tim, did you notice much benefit from the RTV between the cylinders,
>> where you closed the gap?
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
These results shouldn't be too surprising. By improving air flow over the cylinders,
you decreased the top cowl pressure a bit. So now there's less air flow
to the oil cooler.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470421#470421
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
:) Yeah, the 390's aren't cheap. At least it's good. It gave me the
confidence that
I may buy my next RV-10 engine as the Van's brand new engine.
My CHT's have been great for a long time. I don't ever hit 400 on climb
or anything. If it weren't for the oil temp I wouldn't have a complaint.
So you're saying the deflector in front of the louvre lowered the
CHT's (I mean, is the CHT temp the thing you were chasing, or oil temp),
but then adding the cowl flap didn't really make a big difference over
the deflector, right? So either solution helped for CHT's, but
then now with EITHER of them you began to have higher oil temps?
I just want to understand what cause and effect you had. I don't
want to go cutting cowl holes unless I have a good idea that it'll work.
Maybe I'll try just adding an aft curled down lip to the cowl exit
and see how that goes. Something that I can tape on.
I do have the oil cooler throttle valve to keep the oil temps higher
in the winter. Sadly when you live here, but travel all over, you need
something to help with both high and low oil temps. :)
As Bob just noted, maybe the good flow thru the cylinders is actually
hurting our oil cooler capabilities. Or maybe it's the angle that the
oil cooler is at. If you see how they did the RV14 cooler, it lays
horizontal. My RV-14 has zero CHT or Oil temp issues. In fact, the
Cylinders run super cool. So they did something right on that plane
that would be nice to do on the -10.
Tim
On 6/23/2017 3:39 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>
> Very interesting. I replaced my louvers in front of the exhaust pipes
> with the Anti-Splat cowl flaps. This was first supported by putting
> 1/2" deflector in front of the louvers, which made a noticeable
> improvement.
> with the cowl flaps, temps are a bit lower, maybe as good as with the
> deflector in front of louvers(which would have been a lot cheaper and
> easier to stick with). However, where my oil temps had been fine, now
> mine are like yours. I did the flashing removal, but haven't tried the
> RTV yet. I just need to get my cockpit flow back to where it was
> flying the Mooney....cowl flaps open for takeoff and climb. Level off,
> and then close cowl flaps. Open them up as come into pattern to keep
> CHTs from climbing again. I may eventually decide to install one of
> the louvers I removed, right under the oil cooler.
> Your IO-390 cylinders should be perfect...they should be perfect. I
> don't know if you have priced them, but they are almost double the
> price of regular 360 angle valve cylinders.
>
> On 6/23/2017 1:29 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> I didn't really have a good way to tell, sorry. The problem is, when
>> I attacked the
>> CHT issue, I did everything at once, so I can't say that one thing was
>> far better than any other. The Cylinder flashing issue was a definite
>> problem though...you could just see it. Funny that my IO-390 cylinders
>> from Lycoming didn't need any work at all. Maybe these days they
>> do a better job, or maybe they do a better job than ECI did.
>>
>> My real remaining thing I'd some day like to improve is Oil temps.
>> Interestingly, it used to be my CHT's that were the issue, not oil
>> temps.
>> Then after fixing the CHT's, now if there is anything that limits me
>> from climbs on hot days it's oil temps. I set my alarm at 216F to come
>> on and get me to do something. I don't ever let it get over 225F
>> without great reason. I may have seen 235F one or two times in
>> 1250 hours. By keeping speeds of 125kts in climb I can almost
>> do whatever I want, but I would prefer to be able to have my oil
>> temps stay under 210F even in 115kt climbs...and always be
>> in the 190's when straight and level.
>>
>> I may just have to get into a small cowl mod to add an extra exit
>> scoop or something under that oil cooler. It's not a highly pressing
>> issue, but would be nice to deal with for any flights out West in
>> the warm months, mainly.
>>
>> Tim
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
Kelly,
I messed with cht, and oil temps for far too long, I can say that louvers
had no noticeable effect. Adding the bigger cooler also had negligible
effect. I final solution that solved the issue, was to fashion a ram air
intake that combined with the close-out plate on the bottom of the cowl
that fits in front of the nose gear. Attached a 3" scat tube and ran that
into a fiberglass right angle reducer that coupled with the 3" scat tube
and affixed to the top of the oil cooler. Closed off the old oil cooler air
intake behind #6. The difference was dramatic, IMO for anything other than
cold environs the 10 oil cooler mounting and plumbing is inadequate. For us
in the desert the oil cooler demands it's own dedicated air supply. And as
you would surmise #6 cyl was now inline with all others, and all others
showed a drop in CHTs.
On Fri, Jun 23, 2017 at 1:39 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
>
> Very interesting. I replaced my louvers in front of the exhaust pipes with
> the Anti-Splat cowl flaps. This was first supported by putting 1/2"
> deflector in front of the louvers, which made a noticeable improvement.
> with the cowl flaps, temps are a bit lower, maybe as good as with the
> deflector in front of louvers(which would have been a lot cheaper and
> easier to stick with). However, where my oil temps had been fine, now mine
> are like yours. I did the flashing removal, but haven't tried the RTV yet.
> I just need to get my cockpit flow back to where it was flying the
> Mooney....cowl flaps open for takeoff and climb. Level off, and then close
> cowl flaps. Open them up as come into pattern to keep CHTs from climbing
> again. I may eventually decide to install one of the louvers I removed,
> right under the oil cooler.
> Your IO-390 cylinders should be perfect...they should be perfect. I don't
> know if you have priced them, but they are almost double the price of
> regular 360 angle valve cylinders.
>
> On 6/23/2017 1:29 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> I didn't really have a good way to tell, sorry. The problem is, when I
>> attacked the
>> CHT issue, I did everything at once, so I can't say that one thing was
>> far better than any other. The Cylinder flashing issue was a definite
>> problem though...you could just see it. Funny that my IO-390 cylinders
>> from Lycoming didn't need any work at all. Maybe these days they
>> do a better job, or maybe they do a better job than ECI did.
>>
>> My real remaining thing I'd some day like to improve is Oil temps.
>> Interestingly, it used to be my CHT's that were the issue, not oil temps.
>> Then after fixing the CHT's, now if there is anything that limits me
>> from climbs on hot days it's oil temps. I set my alarm at 216F to come
>> on and get me to do something. I don't ever let it get over 225F
>> without great reason. I may have seen 235F one or two times in
>> 1250 hours. By keeping speeds of 125kts in climb I can almost
>> do whatever I want, but I would prefer to be able to have my oil
>> temps stay under 210F even in 115kt climbs...and always be
>> in the 190's when straight and level.
>>
>> I may just have to get into a small cowl mod to add an extra exit
>> scoop or something under that oil cooler. It's not a highly pressing
>> issue, but would be nice to deal with for any flights out West in
>> the warm months, mainly.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
>> On 6/23/2017 3:13 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I had good luck with one of my 3/32 (#40) drill bits, 6" long. Just made
>>> multiple passes and then worked it back and forth somewhat. I can't say I
>>> have seen significant difference, but with OAT around 100 for 9 am takeoff,
>>> and 80 at 6500 and 70 at 9500..I'll have to wait for some more normal temps
>>> to compare.
>>> Tim, did you notice much benefit from the RTV between the cylinders,
>>> where you closed the gap?
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
Kelly,
I have looked at the Anti-Splat cowl flap. What caught my interest is your comment
about "putting 1/2" deflector in front of the louvers". Please describe
this deflector in a little more detail. If you have a photo, that would be very
helpful.
My main concern has been high CHTs, especially on cylinder #6 on initial climb
out. It will usually go above 400F especially in the summer in TN, then drops
under 400. At cruise, all CHTs typically are 350-380F or lower depending how
far LOP, with #6 still being the hottest. I normally have a 30F CHT range between
the hottest land coolest cylinders. One theory is that the air for the
oil cooler is diverting cooling air from #6.
I recently reinstalled the air deflector in front of cyl#2 and put RTV between
the cylinders. That helped the temperature spread only a little, but every little
bit helps.
It helped to balance my injectors, including on climb out. Now, all EGTs peak
within 0.1GPH. Typically, no problems with oil temp. I have an adjustable damper
on the oil cooler, but it only lowers #6 CHT 1 or 2 degrees when I partially
close it to raise oil temp by 20 degrees.
Thanks,
Bruce Hoppe
RV-10 N720JH
Sent from my iPad
Bruce Hoppe
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 23, 2017, at 3:39 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
>
>
> Very interesting. I replaced my louvers in front of the exhaust pipes with the
Anti-Splat cowl flaps. This was first supported by putting 1/2" deflector in
front of the louvers, which made a noticeable improvement.
> with the cowl flaps, temps are a bit lower, maybe as good as with the deflector
in front of louvers(which would have been a lot cheaper and easier to stick
with). However, where my oil temps had been fine, now mine are like yours. I
did the flashing removal, but haven't tried the RTV yet. I just need to get my
cockpit flow back to where it was flying the Mooney....cowl flaps open for takeoff
and climb. Level off, and then close cowl flaps. Open them up as come into
pattern to keep CHTs from climbing again. I may eventually decide to install
one of the louvers I removed, right under the oil cooler.
> Your IO-390 cylinders should be perfect...they should be perfect. I don't know
if you have priced them, but they are almost double the price of regular 360
angle valve cylinders.
>
>> On 6/23/2017 1:29 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>> I didn't really have a good way to tell, sorry. The problem is, when I attacked
the
>> CHT issue, I did everything at once, so I can't say that one thing was
>> far better than any other. The Cylinder flashing issue was a definite
>> problem though...you could just see it. Funny that my IO-390 cylinders
>> from Lycoming didn't need any work at all. Maybe these days they
>> do a better job, or maybe they do a better job than ECI did.
>> My real remaining thing I'd some day like to improve is Oil temps.
>> Interestingly, it used to be my CHT's that were the issue, not oil temps.
>> Then after fixing the CHT's, now if there is anything that limits me
>> from climbs on hot days it's oil temps. I set my alarm at 216F to come
>> on and get me to do something. I don't ever let it get over 225F
>> without great reason. I may have seen 235F one or two times in
>> 1250 hours. By keeping speeds of 125kts in climb I can almost
>> do whatever I want, but I would prefer to be able to have my oil
>> temps stay under 210F even in 115kt climbs...and always be
>> in the 190's when straight and level.
>> I may just have to get into a small cowl mod to add an extra exit
>> scoop or something under that oil cooler. It's not a highly pressing
>> issue, but would be nice to deal with for any flights out West in
>> the warm months, mainly.
>> Tim
>>> On 6/23/2017 3:13 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>
>>> I had good luck with one of my 3/32 (#40) drill bits, 6" long. Just made multiple
passes and then worked it back and forth somewhat. I can't say I have seen
significant difference, but with OAT around 100 for 9 am takeoff, and 80 at
6500 and 70 at 9500..I'll have to wait for some more normal temps to compare.
>>> Tim, did you notice much benefit from the RTV between the cylinders, where
you closed the gap?
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
Good to hear from you Deems. That certainly is worthy of some thought.
Getting more pressure over #6 would definitely help. My concern would be
getting enough ram air pressure in front of nose gear to adequately cool
the oil.
Tim, my original issue was high CHTs. Adding the lip in front of the
louvers helped, and I don't recall any downside to oil temp.
I only saw higher oil temp after I swapped from louvers to cowl flaps.
However, remember, I am flying in triple digit temps, and comparing to a
month ago when temps were more in the 80s. I had high CHT on climb all
winter, as well as during phase 1 last summer. The main method for CHT
control was to get power under 65% and airspeed above 120. In cruise
everything was fine as long as I didn't go above 70% power. Originally, if
I didn't pay attention CHT would easily go above 430. Now, 1, 5 and 6 will
go to 410 in climb if I try to go above 500 fpm for very long.
-sent from the I-droid implanted in my forearm
On Fri, Jun 23, 2017 at 2:39 PM, Deems Davis <deemsdavis@cox.net> wrote:
> Kelly,
>
> I messed with cht, and oil temps for far too long, I can say that louvers
> had no noticeable effect. Adding the bigger cooler also had negligible
> effect. I final solution that solved the issue, was to fashion a ram air
> intake that combined with the close-out plate on the bottom of the cowl
> that fits in front of the nose gear. Attached a 3" scat tube and ran that
> into a fiberglass right angle reducer that coupled with the 3" scat tube
> and affixed to the top of the oil cooler. Closed off the old oil cooler air
> intake behind #6. The difference was dramatic, IMO for anything other than
> cold environs the 10 oil cooler mounting and plumbing is inadequate. For us
> in the desert the oil cooler demands it's own dedicated air supply. And as
> you would surmise #6 cyl was now inline with all others, and all others
> showed a drop in CHTs.
>
> On Fri, Jun 23, 2017 at 1:39 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> Very interesting. I replaced my louvers in front of the exhaust pipes
>> with the Anti-Splat cowl flaps. This was first supported by putting 1/2"
>> deflector in front of the louvers, which made a noticeable improvement.
>> with the cowl flaps, temps are a bit lower, maybe as good as with the
>> deflector in front of louvers(which would have been a lot cheaper and
>> easier to stick with). However, where my oil temps had been fine, now mine
>> are like yours. I did the flashing removal, but haven't tried the RTV yet.
>> I just need to get my cockpit flow back to where it was flying the
>> Mooney....cowl flaps open for takeoff and climb. Level off, and then close
>> cowl flaps. Open them up as come into pattern to keep CHTs from climbing
>> again. I may eventually decide to install one of the louvers I removed,
>> right under the oil cooler.
>> Your IO-390 cylinders should be perfect...they should be perfect. I don't
>> know if you have priced them, but they are almost double the price of
>> regular 360 angle valve cylinders.
>>
>> On 6/23/2017 1:29 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I didn't really have a good way to tell, sorry. The problem is, when I
>>> attacked the
>>> CHT issue, I did everything at once, so I can't say that one thing was
>>> far better than any other. The Cylinder flashing issue was a definite
>>> problem though...you could just see it. Funny that my IO-390 cylinders
>>> from Lycoming didn't need any work at all. Maybe these days they
>>> do a better job, or maybe they do a better job than ECI did.
>>>
>>> My real remaining thing I'd some day like to improve is Oil temps.
>>> Interestingly, it used to be my CHT's that were the issue, not oil temps.
>>> Then after fixing the CHT's, now if there is anything that limits me
>>> from climbs on hot days it's oil temps. I set my alarm at 216F to come
>>> on and get me to do something. I don't ever let it get over 225F
>>> without great reason. I may have seen 235F one or two times in
>>> 1250 hours. By keeping speeds of 125kts in climb I can almost
>>> do whatever I want, but I would prefer to be able to have my oil
>>> temps stay under 210F even in 115kt climbs...and always be
>>> in the 190's when straight and level.
>>>
>>> I may just have to get into a small cowl mod to add an extra exit
>>> scoop or something under that oil cooler. It's not a highly pressing
>>> issue, but would be nice to deal with for any flights out West in
>>> the warm months, mainly.
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>>
>>> On 6/23/2017 3:13 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I had good luck with one of my 3/32 (#40) drill bits, 6" long. Just
>>>> made multiple passes and then worked it back and forth somewhat. I can't
>>>> say I have seen significant difference, but with OAT around 100 for 9 am
>>>> takeoff, and 80 at 6500 and 70 at 9500..I'll have to wait for some more
>>>> normal temps to compare.
>>>> Tim, did you notice much benefit from the RTV between the cylinders,
>>>> where you closed the gap?
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ===================================
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
Bruce, if you will recall the Z channel that is used for stringers in
the tail cone. I used that, cut one curve off, to have thin, 1/2 right
angles. I cut to width of the louvers. then used Gorilla brand duct tape
to tape them in place, just as a temporary trial. I noticed about 20-30
degree drop in CHT.
On 6/23/2017 3:37 PM, Bruce Hoppe wrote:
>
> Kelly,
> I have looked at the Anti-Splat cowl flap. What caught my interest is your comment
about "putting 1/2" deflector in front of the louvers". Please describe
this deflector in a little more detail. If you have a photo, that would be
very helpful.
>
> My main concern has been high CHTs, especially on cylinder #6 on initial climb
out. It will usually go above 400F especially in the summer in TN, then drops
under 400. At cruise, all CHTs typically are 350-380F or lower depending how
far LOP, with #6 still being the hottest. I normally have a 30F CHT range
between the hottest land coolest cylinders. One theory is that the air for the
oil cooler is diverting cooling air from #6.
>
> I recently reinstalled the air deflector in front of cyl#2 and put RTV between
the cylinders. That helped the temperature spread only a little, but every
little bit helps.
>
> It helped to balance my injectors, including on climb out. Now, all EGTs peak
within 0.1GPH. Typically, no problems with oil temp. I have an adjustable
damper on the oil cooler, but it only lowers #6 CHT 1 or 2 degrees when I partially
close it to raise oil temp by 20 degrees.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bruce Hoppe
> RV-10 N720JH
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
> Bruce Hoppe
>
> Sent from my iPad
>> On Jun 23, 2017, at 3:39 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Very interesting. I replaced my louvers in front of the exhaust pipes with the
Anti-Splat cowl flaps. This was first supported by putting 1/2" deflector in
front of the louvers, which made a noticeable improvement.
>> with the cowl flaps, temps are a bit lower, maybe as good as with the deflector
in front of louvers(which would have been a lot cheaper and easier to stick
with). However, where my oil temps had been fine, now mine are like yours. I
did the flashing removal, but haven't tried the RTV yet. I just need to get my
cockpit flow back to where it was flying the Mooney....cowl flaps open for takeoff
and climb. Level off, and then close cowl flaps. Open them up as come into
pattern to keep CHTs from climbing again. I may eventually decide to install
one of the louvers I removed, right under the oil cooler.
>> Your IO-390 cylinders should be perfect...they should be perfect. I don't know
if you have priced them, but they are almost double the price of regular 360
angle valve cylinders.
>>
>>> On 6/23/2017 1:29 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>> I didn't really have a good way to tell, sorry. The problem is, when I attacked
the
>>> CHT issue, I did everything at once, so I can't say that one thing was
>>> far better than any other. The Cylinder flashing issue was a definite
>>> problem though...you could just see it. Funny that my IO-390 cylinders
>>> from Lycoming didn't need any work at all. Maybe these days they
>>> do a better job, or maybe they do a better job than ECI did.
>>> My real remaining thing I'd some day like to improve is Oil temps.
>>> Interestingly, it used to be my CHT's that were the issue, not oil temps.
>>> Then after fixing the CHT's, now if there is anything that limits me
>>> from climbs on hot days it's oil temps. I set my alarm at 216F to come
>>> on and get me to do something. I don't ever let it get over 225F
>>> without great reason. I may have seen 235F one or two times in
>>> 1250 hours. By keeping speeds of 125kts in climb I can almost
>>> do whatever I want, but I would prefer to be able to have my oil
>>> temps stay under 210F even in 115kt climbs...and always be
>>> in the 190's when straight and level.
>>> I may just have to get into a small cowl mod to add an extra exit
>>> scoop or something under that oil cooler. It's not a highly pressing
>>> issue, but would be nice to deal with for any flights out West in
>>> the warm months, mainly.
>>> Tim
>>>> On 6/23/2017 3:13 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I had good luck with one of my 3/32 (#40) drill bits, 6" long. Just made multiple
passes and then worked it back and forth somewhat. I can't say I have
seen significant difference, but with OAT around 100 for 9 am takeoff, and 80
at 6500 and 70 at 9500..I'll have to wait for some more normal temps to compare.
>>>> Tim, did you notice much benefit from the RTV between the cylinders, where
you closed the gap?
>>
>>
>>
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