Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:04 AM - Re: Removing cylinder head flashing (Greg McFarlane)
2. 10:23 AM - Nose gear leg fairing - tip (Phillip Perry)
3. 10:49 AM - Re: Nose gear leg fairing - tip (Home)
4. 10:00 PM - Re: Removing cylinder head flashing (David Carr)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
I was concerned about high CHT & Oil temps in local RV10s here so I was very lucky
to get some details from Deems about his mod when I was fitting my engine,
I took his idea a bit further and I'm pleased to say that it has worked out
extremely well. I can keep CHT under 350 and oil at 180. (we have mid 30 to 40*C
conditions at times) As the pics show I added an intake for the oil cooler
to the bottom cowl, a manifold then takes the air to the left of the front wheel
slot (1/2" below the fab) and then via a 4" scat to the vertically mounted
standard oil filter. Air is regulated by a push/pull butterfly valve at the oil
cooler (Not visible) and exhausts out of the oil cooler couple inches from
the side of the cowl. No air is bled off the top of the engine so all is available
for CHT cooling. CHTs are even on all cylinders. I didn't fit the flimsy
louvres or cowl flaps but installed letterbox vents on both sides. I did fit
a "cowl flap" on the side of the cowl next to the oil cooler because I didn't
know if the air flow through the cooler would be enough, but this hasn't been
needed so I've now permently fixed it shut. One downside to the mod is that
the scat hose must be removed before taking the bottom cowl off, not a big deal,
the scat is a push fit into the manifold and is secured by hand with a -3
bolt into a nut plate. Anyway, not really about CHT flashing but related to the
cooling discussion. Cheers from Western Australia
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470436#470436
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Nose gear leg fairing - tip |
I've got 7.5 hours on the plane and about 2 weeks ago I decided to take it down
for a bit to put the pants and fairings on.
That nose leg fairing was a bear for me. The pin just didn't want to slide into
the hinge halves. And when I did get it sliding, keeping the two halves nested
wasn't easy..... especially the further down it went.
Then it dawned on me.... I could take another hinge pin and slide it up from
the bottom as far as I could get it to align that bottom half. While at the
same time inserting the pin front the top.
I couldn't push the alignment pin out with the top pin, but I could pull the alignment
pin out and inch or two at a time and then chase it with the top pin.
It's still not super slick to slide in, but it sure did take away the frustration
and that's 99% of the battle IMO.
Just sharing so others might use it later on to fit their fairings. Nose wheel
pant has to be removed to do it.
Worked well.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Nose gear leg fairing - tip |
I use Boelube (solid) on my pins for the same reason. One of my cowl pins is tight
and the lube helps with the effort. Just another option to help.
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 24, 2017, at 1:23 PM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I've got 7.5 hours on the plane and about 2 weeks ago I decided to take it down
for a bit to put the pants and fairings on.
>
> That nose leg fairing was a bear for me. The pin just didn't want to slide into
the hinge halves. And when I did get it sliding, keeping the two halves nested
wasn't easy..... especially the further down it went.
>
> Then it dawned on me.... I could take another hinge pin and slide it up from
the bottom as far as I could get it to align that bottom half. While at the
same time inserting the pin front the top.
>
> I couldn't push the alignment pin out with the top pin, but I could pull the
alignment pin out and inch or two at a time and then chase it with the top pin.
>
> It's still not super slick to slide in, but it sure did take away the frustration
and that's 99% of the battle IMO.
>
> Just sharing so others might use it later on to fit their fairings. Nose wheel
pant has to be removed to do it.
>
> Worked well.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Removing cylinder head flashing |
Thanks for all of the advice on the flashing! This list is a great
resource.
David
On Fri, Jun 23, 2017 at 11:53 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> I found a small thin file at our local farm store that fits nicely if the
> gap isn't completely closed.
> I song have the info but it was maybe 6-8" long and maybe at most 1/2"
> wide and about 1/16" thick or so. That worked well.
> Tim
>
> > On Jun 23, 2017, at 11:38 AM, David Carr <junk@dcarr.org> wrote:
> >
> > Hi list,
> >
> > What are your favorite techniques/tools for removing the cylinder head
> flashing (near the top spark plug)?
> >
> > So far I've discovered Tim's approach using an extension drill like an
> end mill and also a suggestion to try modifying a hacksaw rod blade into
> long rotary burr.
> >
> > Thanks for your input,
> > David
>
>
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