Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:35 AM - Re: Elevator Trim Servo (Bob Leffler)
2. 03:19 AM - Re: Elevator Trim Servo (Jesse Saint)
3. 08:27 AM - Re: Elevator Trim Servo (Phillip Perry)
4. 08:49 AM - Re: Elevator Trim Servo (Ron Walker)
5. 09:28 AM - Re: Elevator Trim Servo (Phillip Perry)
6. 11:41 AM - Re: Elevator Trim Servo (Ron Walker)
7. 06:48 PM - Re: Re: F-1046 Longeron to F-1005E Gusset Holes (Berck E. Nash)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Servo |
Phil,
It sounds like your vertical gain setting on the AP may be set too high.
The indication of gain being too high is a rapid over correction.
Have you flown the in the AP mode and tested to see if a manual turn or alt
itude change is responded to appropriately? I.e. Does it turn out within
1 degree of the heading or within a couple feet of the altitude without ove
rshooting? If the gain is too high you'll see what you are experiencing.
Setting even one or two numbers high and you'll think you are on a roller
coaster. Too low and the AP will seem sluggish and unresponsive.
I'm not familiar with the Garmin screens, but on the AFS there is additiona
l set of gain controls in the EFIS. This allowed me to even further fine
tune the settings after getting them as close as possible in the manual AP
mode.
In the four years of flying with the Trutrak auto trim, I've never noticed
it working. It made appropriate corrects without any movements that that
passenger can notice.
I don't have my settings handy at the moment, but I have them and can share
them with you as a comparison. There almost identical to Rob Hickman's re
commendation on where to start for a RV-10 using a AFS pilot, which is basi
cally the same AP that you have.
Bob
Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
_____________________________
From: Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com<mailto:philperry9@gmail.com>>
Sent: Sunday, July 9, 2017 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator Trim Servo
:philperry9@gmail.com>>
Marcus,
Sorry I missed our message. Fortunately I saw it on Kelly's reply.
I have the Garmin GX Pilot (TruTrak) with the G3X. It will tell you if you
need trim up or down and then you just add it manually.
For Auto-Trim, you have to get the Auto-Trim module from TruTrak and instal
l it. I can look at my AP head and see when trim inputs are being sent from
the TruTrak to the trim servo. Right now mine are fairly frequently and ha
ve experienced a couple if moments where it was putting inputs in so quickl
y that be plane never had time to respond before the next input was made. T
hat created and pretty aggressive oscillation of about 30 ft high to 30 ft
low as the auto-trim thought it was playing catchup, when in reality it was
behind.
Before my next flight, I'm going to make an adjustment to reduce the freque
ncy of the auto-trim inputs. That will (should) give the plane some time to
react before the next trim command is issued.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 8, 2017, at 5:38 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com<mailto:ke
llym@aviating.com>> wrote:
>
to:kellym@aviating.com>>
>
> I have the Dynon Skyview autopilot system, which shows on screen a trim c
ommand, which the autotrim then activates. At cruise the changes are rather
minor and infrequent. In the pattern I hand fly anyway and do my own trimm
ing.The Dynon autopilot panel adjusts trim motor speed automatically to be
inverse to airspeed.
>
>> On 7/8/2017 8:15 AM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
:cooprv7@yahoo.com>>
>> Phil,
>> What kind of autopilot do you have? Just curious as I currently have the
TruTrak which tells you a trim change is needed but doesn't actuate the tr
im. However, I am about to do a big panel upgrade which includes going to a
Garmin G3X and Garmin autopilot servos and am wondering if it also ties in
to the trim?
>> Thanks,
>> Marcus
>>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 9:32 AM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com<mailto:
philperry9@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>> Do not archive
ilto:philperry9@gmail.com>>
>>>
>>> Last message send too early.
>>>
>>> So I have been disabling auto-trim on my auto pilot. Just to keep it fr
om working up a down until I can learn more about how much input it's putti
ng into the system. I really don't want to go on a 3 hour flight and have t
he auto-trim running the tab the whole time when the trim is close enough t
hat servo is close enough to handle the loads.
>>>
>>> So I've been using auto trim to get level and then shutting it down unt
il it's needed.
>>>
>>> I don't know if it helps much, but I'm just hoping to extend the life o
f the servo by running it when it really doesn't need to be running.
>>>
>>> Phil
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 7:18 AM, Ron Walker <n520tx@gmail.com<mailto:n520tx
@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>>
520tx@gmail.com>>
>>>>
>>>> Doing some T&G last evening in the 10 ... with just me on board, final
typically has me full nose up on the trim - even with that, I still need s
ome back pressure ... but that's not the story.
>>>>
>>>> Anyway, on roll-out, I was moving the tab back to neutral and realized
it was taking a LOT longer to reset than usual. Eventually I determined th
at it was not moving at all. The trim had stopped in the full nose up (tab
down) position.
>>>>
>>>> Some troubleshooting after shutdown revealed the mechanism is not jamm
ed, it still gets power - when activated, the unit does some "whirring" - b
ut the jack screw does not move. It appears something INTERNAL to the unit
has failed.
>>>>
>>>> In all my years flying RV's, I've never heard of a single failure in t
his manner. Anyone ?
>>>>
>>>> Really wish I had used a DB9 or some other quick connect for this ...
>>>>
>>>> --Ron
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Servo |
The overshooting can be gains or auto-trim set too high. If your module has a
knob, you can adjust it that way. If it is newer, it is adjusted using the t
rim switch (pg 9 in the auto trim manual).
The Garmin G3X auto pilot does also have auto trim built in. You can adjust s
etting on it as well.
The Dynon lets you set trim speed through the AP Panel, which also provides a
uto trim. It is not necessarily inverse to airspeed, but that is the correct
way to set it. You set a max trim speed and the airspeed for that trim spee
d, then a minimum trim speed and and airspeed for that trim speed, then it m
akes a linear correlation between those two airspeeds. This is a very nice f
eature.
In my experience, the trutrak usually trims a lot more than the Dynon and Ga
rmin by default, but you can adjust that. Also, Dynon let's you trim manuall
y even when the AP is on. Garmin turns the auto pilot off if you trim manual
ly (unless fixed in a software update) and the Trutrak disables your trim sw
itch when the AP is on.
One other thing is that the Trutrak only offers auto pitch trim. The other t
wo offer auto trim on pitch and roll, although I haven't ever used the roll t
rim portion more than just to realize it doesn't really need it.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 9, 2017, at 5:34 AM, Bob Leffler <bob@thelefflers.com> wrote:
>
> Phil,
>
> It sounds like your vertical gain setting on the AP may be set too high.
The indication of gain being too high is a rapid over correction.
>
> Have you flown the in the AP mode and tested to see if a manual turn or al
titude change is responded to appropriately? I.e. Does it turn out within 1
degree of the heading or within a couple feet of the altitude without overs
hooting? If the gain is too high you'll see what you are experiencing. Se
tting even one or two numbers high and you'll think you are on a roller coas
ter. Too low and the AP will seem sluggish and unresponsive.
>
> I'm not familiar with the Garmin screens, but on the AFS there is addition
al set of gain controls in the EFIS. This allowed me to even further fine t
une the settings after getting them as close as possible in the manual AP mo
de.
>
> In the four years of flying with the Trutrak auto trim, I've never noticed
it working. It made appropriate corrects without any movements that that p
assenger can notice.
>
> I don't have my settings handy at the moment, but I have them and can shar
e them with you as a comparison. There almost identical to Rob Hickman's re
commendation on where to start for a RV-10 using a AFS pilot, which is basic
ally the same AP that you have.
>
> Bob
>
>
> Get Outlook for iOS
> _____________________________
> From: Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com>
> Sent: Sunday, July 9, 2017 12:11 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator Trim Servo
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>
>
>
> Marcus,
>
> Sorry I missed our message. Fortunately I saw it on Kelly's reply.
>
> I have the Garmin GX Pilot (TruTrak) with the G3X. It will tell you if you
need trim up or down and then you just add it manually.
>
> For Auto-Trim, you have to get the Auto-Trim module from TruTrak and insta
ll it. I can look at my AP head and see when trim inputs are being sent from
the TruTrak to the trim servo. Right now mine are fairly frequently and hav
e experienced a couple if moments where it was putting inputs in so quickly t
hat be plane never had time to respond before the next input was made. That c
reated and pretty aggressive oscillation of about 30 ft high to 30 ft low as
the auto-trim thought it was playing catchup, when in reality it was behind
.
>
> Before my next flight, I'm going to make an adjustment to reduce the frequ
ency of the auto-trim inputs. That will (should) give the plane some time to
react before the next trim command is issued.
>
> Phil
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jul 8, 2017, at 5:38 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > I have the Dynon Skyview autopilot system, which shows on screen a trim c
ommand, which the autotrim then activates. At cruise the changes are rather m
inor and infrequent. In the pattern I hand fly anyway and do my own trimming
.The Dynon autopilot panel adjusts trim motor speed automatically to be inve
rse to airspeed.
> >
> >> On 7/8/2017 8:15 AM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
> >> Phil,
> >> What kind of autopilot do you have? Just curious as I currently have th
e TruTrak which tells you a trim change is needed but doesn't actuate the tr
im. However, I am about to do a big panel upgrade which includes going to a G
armin G3X and Garmin autopilot servos and am wondering if it also ties into t
he trim?
> >> Thanks,
> >> Marcus
> >>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 9:32 AM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote
:
> >>> Do not archive
> >>>
> >>> Last message send too early.
> >>>
> >>> So I have been disabling auto-trim on my auto pilot. Just to keep it f
rom working up a down until I can learn more about how much input it's putti
ng into the system. I really don't want to go on a 3 hour flight and have th
e auto-trim running the tab the whole time when the trim is close enough tha
t servo is close enough to handle the loads.
> >>>
> >>> So I've been using auto trim to get level and then shutting it down un
til it's needed.
> >>>
> >>> I don't know if it helps much, but I'm just hoping to extend the life o
f the servo by running it when it really doesn't need to be running.
> >>>
> >>> Phil
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >>>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 7:18 AM, Ron Walker <n520tx@gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Doing some T&G last evening in the 10 ... with just me on board, fina
l typically has me full nose up on the trim - even with that, I still need s
ome back pressure ... but that's not the story.
> >>>>
> >>>> Anyway, on roll-out, I was moving the tab back to neutral and realize
d it was taking a LOT longer to reset than usual. Eventually I determined th
at it was not moving at all. The trim had stopped in the full nose up (tab d
own) position.
> >>>>
> >>>> Some troubleshooting after shutdown revealed the mechanism is not jam
med, it still gets power - when activated, the unit does some "whirring" - b
ut the jack screw does not move. It appears something INTERNAL to the unit h
as failed.
> >>>>
> >>>> In all my years flying RV's, I've never heard of a single failure in t
his manner. Anyone ?
> >>>>
> >>>> Really wish I had used a DB9 or some other quick connect for this ...
> >>>>
> >>>> --Ron
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> >
> >
>
> ==========
> -List" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link
" x-apple-data-detectors-result="11"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?R
V10-List
> ==========
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ctors-result="13"> http://wiki.matronics.com
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>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Servo |
I suspect the auto-trim is set too high. I haven't had any issues with the
AP rolling out on the wrong heading or failing to intercept an altitude.
The problem first exhibited itself when I was straight and level and made a p
ower change. That power change apparently hit a sweet spot where it wanted
to ride the roller coaster.
I let it I for awhile just watching to see if it would ever figure it out; i
t didn't. So my next step was to switch my trim speed switch to slow. It
might have helped a bit, but can't say for sure because I couldn't recall i
f the auto-trim used the trim-speed switch. Then I disabled auto-trim and t
he problem went away.
It was just one of those things you find in Phase 1 where everything works g
reat for 10 hours and then you find some perfect combination of things (a po
wer setting adjustment in my case) where you don't get the results you expec
t for some freak reason.
My auto-trim module has the knob on the side and I haven't touched it from t
he factory. My next plan is to turn it and slow down the trim inputs a bit
. I'll keep dialing it down until I find a sweet spot or the problem doesn'
t go away at the end of the knobs travel.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 9, 2017, at 4:19 AM, Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com> wrote:
>
> The overshooting can be gains or auto-trim set too high. If your module ha
s a knob, you can adjust it that way. If it is newer, it is adjusted using t
he trim switch (pg 9 in the auto trim manual).
>
> The Garmin G3X auto pilot does also have auto trim built in. You can adjus
t setting on it as well.
>
> The Dynon lets you set trim speed through the AP Panel, which also provide
s auto trim. It is not necessarily inverse to airspeed, but that is the corr
ect way to set it. You set a max trim speed and the airspeed for that trim s
peed, then a minimum trim speed and and airspeed for that trim speed, then i
t makes a linear correlation between those two airspeeds. This is a very nic
e feature.
>
> In my experience, the trutrak usually trims a lot more than the Dynon and G
armin by default, but you can adjust that. Also, Dynon let's you trim manual
ly even when the AP is on. Garmin turns the auto pilot off if you trim manua
lly (unless fixed in a software update) and the Trutrak disables your trim s
witch when the AP is on.
>
> One other thing is that the Trutrak only offers auto pitch trim. The other
two offer auto trim on pitch and roll, although I haven't ever used the rol
l trim portion more than just to realize it doesn't really need it.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 9, 2017, at 5:34 AM, Bob Leffler <bob@thelefflers.com> wrote:
>>
>> Phil,
>>
>> It sounds like your vertical gain setting on the AP may be set too high.
The indication of gain being too high is a rapid over correction.
>>
>> Have you flown the in the AP mode and tested to see if a manual turn or a
ltitude change is responded to appropriately? I.e. Does it turn out within
1 degree of the heading or within a couple feet of the altitude without ove
rshooting? If the gain is too high you'll see what you are experiencing. S
etting even one or two numbers high and you'll think you are on a roller coa
ster. Too low and the AP will seem sluggish and unresponsive.
>>
>> I'm not familiar with the Garmin screens, but on the AFS there is additio
nal set of gain controls in the EFIS. This allowed me to even further fine
tune the settings after getting them as close as possible in the manual AP m
ode.
>>
>> In the four years of flying with the Trutrak auto trim, I've never notice
d it working. It made appropriate corrects without any movements that that
passenger can notice.
>>
>> I don't have my settings handy at the moment, but I have them and can sha
re them with you as a comparison. There almost identical to Rob Hickman's r
ecommendation on where to start for a RV-10 using a AFS pilot, which is basi
cally the same AP that you have.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> Get Outlook for iOS
>> _____________________________
>> From: Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 9, 2017 12:11 AM
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Elevator Trim Servo
>> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
>>
>>
>>
>> Marcus,
>>
>> Sorry I missed our message. Fortunately I saw it on Kelly's reply.
>>
>> I have the Garmin GX Pilot (TruTrak) with the G3X. It will tell you if yo
u need trim up or down and then you just add it manually.
>>
>> For Auto-Trim, you have to get the Auto-Trim module from TruTrak and inst
all it. I can look at my AP head and see when trim inputs are being sent fro
m the TruTrak to the trim servo. Right now mine are fairly frequently and ha
ve experienced a couple if moments where it was putting inputs in so quickly
that be plane never had time to respond before the next input was made. Tha
t created and pretty aggressive oscillation of about 30 ft high to 30 ft low
as the auto-trim thought it was playing catchup, when in reality it was be
hind.
>>
>> Before my next flight, I'm going to make an adjustment to reduce the freq
uency of the auto-trim inputs. That will (should) give the plane some time t
o react before the next trim command is issued.
>>
>> Phil
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Jul 8, 2017, at 5:38 PM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > I have the Dynon Skyview autopilot system, which shows on screen a trim
command, which the autotrim then activates. At cruise the changes are rathe
r minor and infrequent. In the pattern I hand fly anyway and do my own trimm
ing.The Dynon autopilot panel adjusts trim motor speed automatically to be i
nverse to airspeed.
>> >
>> >> On 7/8/2017 8:15 AM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>> >> Phil,
>> >> What kind of autopilot do you have? Just curious as I currently have t
he TruTrak which tells you a trim change is needed but doesn't actuate the t
rim. However, I am about to do a big panel upgrade which includes going to a
Garmin G3X and Garmin autopilot servos and am wondering if it also ties int
o the trim?
>> >> Thanks,
>> >> Marcus
>> >>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 9:32 AM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrot
e:
>> >>> Do not archive
>> >>>
>> >>> Last message send too early.
>> >>>
>> >>> So I have been disabling auto-trim on my auto pilot. Just to keep it f
rom working up a down until I can learn more about how much input it's putti
ng into the system. I really don't want to go on a 3 hour flight and have th
e auto-trim running the tab the whole time when the trim is close enough tha
t servo is close enough to handle the loads.
>> >>>
>> >>> So I've been using auto trim to get level and then shutting it down u
ntil it's needed.
>> >>>
>> >>> I don't know if it helps much, but I'm just hoping to extend the life
of the servo by running it when it really doesn't need to be running.
>> >>>
>> >>> Phil
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> Sent from my iPhone
>> >>>
>> >>>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 7:18 AM, Ron Walker <n520tx@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Doing some T&G last evening in the 10 ... with just me on board, fin
al typically has me full nose up on the trim - even with that, I still need s
ome back pressure ... but that's not the story.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Anyway, on roll-out, I was moving the tab back to neutral and realiz
ed it was taking a LOT longer to reset than usual. Eventually I determined t
hat it was not moving at all. The trim had stopped in the full nose up (tab d
own) position.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Some troubleshooting after shutdown revealed the mechanism is not ja
mmed, it still gets power - when activated, the unit does some "whirring" - b
ut the jack screw does not move. It appears something INTERNAL to the unit h
as failed.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> In all my years flying RV's, I've never heard of a single failure in
this manner. Anyone ?
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Really wish I had used a DB9 or some other quick connect for this ..
.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> --Ron
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>> ==========
>> -List" x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="lin
k" x-apple-data-detectors-result="11"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?
RV10-List
>> ==========
>> ta-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link" x-apple-data-d
etectors-result="12"> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> -detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link" x-apple-data-det
ectors-result="13"> http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> x-apple-data-detectors="true" x-apple-data-detectors-type="link" x-ap
ple-data-detectors-result="14"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Servo |
I spent the better part of an hr this morning removing the servo. I hope
re-install goes as smoothly.
I removed the servo cover and got a look at the innards. One of the
drive gears had a few teeth missing. In this "dead spot", the shaft will
not move. Culprit identified.
Pricey little gizmo, too.
--Ron
On 07/08/2017 08:28 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> We just replaced one on a -10 on our field. Exactly the same failure after some
T&G's in the evening. There was noise but no movement as a gear broke inside
the unit.
>
> It was ~10 years old, FYI.
>
> I suspect this servo gets more use (and high pressures on the mechanisms) than
any other servo (Aileron and rudder for those who have rudder trim).
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 7:18 AM, Ron Walker <n520tx@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Doing some T&G last evening in the 10 ... with just me on board, final typically
has me full nose up on the trim - even with that, I still need some back
pressure ... but that's not the story.
>>
>> Anyway, on roll-out, I was moving the tab back to neutral and realized it was
taking a LOT longer to reset than usual. Eventually I determined that it was
not moving at all. The trim had stopped in the full nose up (tab down) position.
>>
>> Some troubleshooting after shutdown revealed the mechanism is not jammed, it
still gets power - when activated, the unit does some "whirring" - but the jack
screw does not move. It appears something INTERNAL to the unit has failed.
>>
>> In all my years flying RV's, I've never heard of a single failure in this manner.
Anyone ?
>>
>> Really wish I had used a DB9 or some other quick connect for this ...
>>
>> --Ron
>>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Servo |
Curious how old it was? The one we replaced had the same failure at 10 years.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 9, 2017, at 9:49 AM, Ron Walker <n520tx@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I spent the better part of an hr this morning removing the servo. I hope re-install
goes as smoothly.
>
> I removed the servo cover and got a look at the innards. One of the drive gears
had a few teeth missing. In this "dead spot", the shaft will not move. Culprit
identified.
>
> Pricey little gizmo, too.
>
> --Ron
>
>> On 07/08/2017 08:28 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>> We just replaced one on a -10 on our field. Exactly the same failure after
some T&G's in the evening. There was noise but no movement as a gear broke inside
the unit.
>> It was ~10 years old, FYI.
>> I suspect this servo gets more use (and high pressures on the mechanisms) than
any other servo (Aileron and rudder for those who have rudder trim).
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> On Jul 8, 2017, at 7:18 AM, Ron Walker <n520tx@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Doing some T&G last evening in the 10 ... with just me on board, final typically
has me full nose up on the trim - even with that, I still need some back
pressure ... but that's not the story.
>>>
>>> Anyway, on roll-out, I was moving the tab back to neutral and realized it was
taking a LOT longer to reset than usual. Eventually I determined that it was
not moving at all. The trim had stopped in the full nose up (tab down) position.
>>>
>>> Some troubleshooting after shutdown revealed the mechanism is not jammed, it
still gets power - when activated, the unit does some "whirring" - but the jack
screw does not move. It appears something INTERNAL to the unit has failed.
>>>
>>> In all my years flying RV's, I've never heard of a single failure in this manner.
Anyone ?
>>>
>>> Really wish I had used a DB9 or some other quick connect for this ...
>>>
>>> --Ron
>>>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Trim Servo |
I bought the emp kit in 2005, so I would guess at least 12 yrs old.
However, it's only been flying since Oct 2016 (9 mths). Perhaps it just
went brittle while sitting idle all those years.
--Ron
On 07/09/2017 11:28 AM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> Curious how old it was? The one we replaced had the same failure at 10 years.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 9, 2017, at 9:49 AM, Ron Walker <n520tx@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I spent the better part of an hr this morning removing the servo. I hope re-install
goes as smoothly.
>>
>> I removed the servo cover and got a look at the innards. One of the drive gears
had a few teeth missing. In this "dead spot", the shaft will not move. Culprit
identified.
>>
>> Pricey little gizmo, too.
>>
>> --Ron
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: F-1046 Longeron to F-1005E Gusset Holes |
Thanks, I eventually came to the same conclusion. Vans wrote back and said
they didn't know what caused the problem, but that I could just add a
doubler. That didn't seem like a reasonable solution to me. Sure, I could
add a doubler and put new holes in the longeron, but the new holes through
the doubler would have bad edge distance in the gusset. I could add more
holes way out in the gusset, but this wasn't satisfying to me, either.
After spending a lot of time playing with the parts and a sharpie, I
realized what you did, that I could pivot the gusset outboard and fix the
edge distance. For the right side (which I hadn't drilled yet), I went
ahead and drilled through the side skin in the forward-most hole into the
longeron so I could cleco to the skin and be sure that alignment was
correct. Then, I simply squeezed the gusset inboard with my hands and
drilled the aft-most hole first. Put a cleco in it, and drilled the rest.
I think they came out just fine.
So, I rebuilt the left longeron with the bad holes (probably took me about
the same amount of time as making a doubler from scratch, figuring out
rivet lengths, etc, would have taken). Drilled the new longeron with my
new technique and I think it too is now fine.
https://goo.gl/photos/t63mDsvT4a5nmDFu5
https://goo.gl/photos/bgZw1QuKYaSiWZLS8
So, a note to anyone else who hasn't yet done this: check your edge
distance before drilling these holes (particularly on the aft-most hole),
and note that you can pull the gusset outboard as necessary to get the
right edge distance.
On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 5:35 PM, kearney <kearney@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> I was reading this thread with some interest as I was about to do this
> step as well.
>
> Prior to drilling I marked where the holes would be using a sharpie
> through the gusset holes. The edge distance was not good for the aft most
> holes.
> The source of the problem was that the flange of the gusset was not
> parallel to the skin / longeron.
>
> I was think of using a shim to move the longeron inboard but then realized
> there was a much simpler solution.
>
> If you rotate the F-1005C you can get the gusset flange to line up
> parallel to the skin. This will give good edge distance. You will need to
> rotate the F1005 beyond where you want it a sit will spring back a little.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> C-GCWZ Flying
> C-GROK some assembly required
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=470800#470800
>
>
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