RV10-List Digest Archive

Thu 08/10/17


Total Messages Posted: 12



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 07:06 AM - Re: Gust Lock Reviews (bill.peyton)
     2. 07:43 AM - Re: Re: Gust Lock Reviews (Marcus Cooper)
     3. 08:02 AM - Re: Gust Lock Reviews (bill.peyton)
     4. 08:32 AM - Re: Re: Gust Lock Reviews (Rene)
     5. 08:54 AM - Re: Gust Lock Reviews (civengpe)
     6. 10:19 AM - Re: Re: Gust Lock Reviews (Rick Lark)
     7. 12:48 PM - Re: Re: Gust Lock Reviews (Bill Watson)
     8. 05:37 PM - Re: Re: Gust Lock Reviews (Dave Leikam)
     9. 07:48 PM - Fuel pump - replacement  (Phillip Perry)
    10. 07:57 PM - Re: Fuel pump - replacement (Tim Olson)
    11. 07:57 PM - Re: Fuel pump - replacement (Kelly McMullen)
    12. 08:37 PM - Re: Fuel pump - replacement ()
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 07:06:10 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Gust Lock Reviews
    From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b@sbcglobal.net>
    I made this out of PVC. 600 hours and still working well -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471699#471699 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2857_740.jpg


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:43:10 AM PST US
    From: Marcus Cooper <cooprv7@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Gust Lock Reviews
    Bill, That's very similar to what I was thinking of making. Does it hold the stick well in roll also? My cargo strap around the taillight for a rudder lock isn't very professional looking, but it works great. Thanks, Marcus > On Aug 10, 2017, at 10:05 AM, bill.peyton <peyton.b@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > > I made this out of PVC. 600 hours and still working well > > -------- > Bill > WA0SYV > Aviation Partners, LLC > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471699#471699 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2857_740.jpg > > > > > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:02:43 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Gust Lock Reviews
    From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b@sbcglobal.net>
    Yes, it holds the stick and the rudder pedals. I have a #8 screw with a castellated nut that protrudes through the front web that secures the end of the gust lock from lateral movement. You can see it in the photos. Total cost under $10. -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471701#471701


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:32:45 AM PST US
    From: "Rene" <rene@felker.com>
    Subject: Re: Gust Lock Reviews
    Sorry no picture. I have a PVC model that is an "H". One of my first locks tied in the stick and it failed when I needed it the most and I got rudder damage. So I use the "H" pvc for the rudder and seat belt for the Stick. Rene' 801-721-6080 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bill.peyton Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 7:06 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Gust Lock Reviews I made this out of PVC. 600 hours and still working well -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471699#471699 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2857_740.jpg


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:54:29 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Gust Lock Reviews
    From: "civengpe" <civeng123@gmail.com>
    I built the PVC gust lock and have been happy with the results as well. Mine looks exactly like the one above, except it doesn't lock the stick. It just goes straight back and wedges on the back wall of the foot well. I use the seat belt for the stick. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471709#471709


    Message 6


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    Time: 10:19:48 AM PST US
    From: Rick Lark <larkrv10@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Gust Lock Reviews
    I 'll second Bill's comments wrt the gust lick. Works very well Rick C-GDMH Sent from my iPad > On Aug 10, 2017, at 11:02 AM, bill.peyton <peyton.b@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > > Yes, it holds the stick and the rudder pedals. I have a #8 screw with a castellated nut that protrudes through the front web that secures the end of the gust lock from lateral movement. You can see it in the photos. Total cost under $10. > > -------- > Bill > WA0SYV > Aviation Partners, LLC > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471701#471701 > > > > > > > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 12:48:46 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Gust Lock Reviews
    From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
    I'm using the Bogey Bar as well. It's a mandatory item for moving the plane around and just happens to work perfectly as a gust lock. It seems almost 'tuned' to the RV10 in the sense that it jams down in front of the seat cushion and fits into the rudder pedals without modification. I used it for a while as is, then added two welded tabs to insure that is stays jammed in the rudder pedals. Here's some more info: Bogi Tow Bar as Control Lock <http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=2223&log 0875&row=1> On 8/9/2017 8:04 PM, Bob Turner wrote: > > I use the very slightly modified Bogart tow bar as a control (all 3 axes) gust lock. Works fine, no extra weight since I take the tow bar everywhere anyway. > > -------- > Bob Turner > RV-10 QB > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471686#471686 > > --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus


    Message 8


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    Time: 05:37:00 PM PST US
    From: Dave Leikam <arplnplt@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Gust Lock Reviews
    I made my gust lock similar to all the ones shown out of PVC and an extendab le paint roller pole. The ends fit into the top of the break pedals and wor k as a parking break when installed. A small Velcro strap holds the stick t ight against the assembly. The whole thing holds the breaks, rudder, elevat or and ailerons when installed. Dave Leikam N89DA > On Aug 10, 2017, at 2:48 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote: > > I'm using the Bogey Bar as well. It's a mandatory item for moving the pla ne around and just happens to work perfectly as a gust lock. It seems almos t 'tuned' to the RV10 in the sense that it jams down in front of the seat cu shion and fits into the rudder pedals without modification. > > I used it for a while as is, then added two welded tabs to insure that is s tays jammed in the rudder pedals. Here's some more info: > Bogi Tow Bar as Control Lock > > >> On 8/9/2017 8:04 PM, Bob Turner wrote: >> >> I use the very slightly modified Bogart tow bar as a control (all 3 axes) gust lock. Works fine, no extra weight since I take the tow bar everywhere a nyway. >> >> -------- >> Bob Turner >> RV-10 QB >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471686#471686 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com


    Message 9


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    Time: 07:48:50 PM PST US
    From: Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com>
    Subject: Fuel pump - replacement
    I am probably going to try installing a new (engine driven) fuel pump tomorrow. Has anyone replaced theirs? What's he process like? I'm guessing I don't need to drain the oil to swap it out? How much cussing does it require? It should be a simple process, but I could see fitting it under the plunger and getting everything aligned could be a pain. Any tips would help. I'd like to not fit with it for days. Thanks, Phil Sent from my iPhone


    Message 10


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    Time: 07:57:35 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Fuel pump - replacement
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Phil, My RV14 came with a pump that ended up having an SB on it so I replaced it under warranty. http://www.myrv14.com/N14YT/maintenance/20170408/index.html There are some tips there for you. It's both a real pain in the butt, and also not too bad, all at the same time. You won't need to drain the oil, but you should have a new gasket or two on hand. It does require at least 10 minutes of cussing, or it isn't a project. More than 2 hours worth gets you extra points. Check out that link. That may be all you need. The safety wire trick was invaluable. Tim On 8/10/2017 9:48 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > I am probably going to try installing a new (engine driven) fuel pump tomorrow. Has anyone replaced theirs? > > What's he process like? I'm guessing I don't need to drain the oil to swap it out? > > How much cussing does it require? > > It should be a simple process, but I could see fitting it under the plunger and getting everything aligned could be a pain. Any tips would help. I'd like to not fit with it for days. > > Thanks, > Phil > >


    Message 11


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    Time: 07:57:51 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Fuel pump - replacement
    From: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
    You want clear access to the area, which may mean removing scat tubing around the oil cooler and the mufflers. You will need to hold the plunger up while you insert the new pump. Then hold pump in place while getting the first allen screw in place. Oh, yeah, you also need all the fuel lines clear of the area. No, you do not need to drain oil. Degree of difficulty depends on how clear your access is. I've done the swap on back of IO-360 in a Mooney. Same pump, tighter firewall clearance. On 8/10/2017 7:48 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > I am probably going to try installing a new (engine driven) fuel pump tomorrow. Has anyone replaced theirs? > > What's he process like? I'm guessing I don't need to drain the oil to swap it out? > > How much cussing does it require? > > It should be a simple process, but I could see fitting it under the plunger and getting everything aligned could be a pain. Any tips would help. I'd like to not fit with it for days. > > Thanks, > Phil


    Message 12


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    Time: 08:37:45 PM PST US
    From: <kboatright1@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Fuel pump - replacement
    The safety wire trick to put the plunger in a bind and hold it in place is the way to go. I replaced my (O-320) pump a year or two ago, and it was very easy. Probably a 30 minute job once I had all of the parts and tools on hand... -----Original Message----- From: Tim Olson Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 10:56 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel pump - replacement Phil, My RV14 came with a pump that ended up having an SB on it so I replaced it under warranty. http://www.myrv14.com/N14YT/maintenance/20170408/index.html There are some tips there for you. It's both a real pain in the butt, and also not too bad, all at the same time. You won't need to drain the oil, but you should have a new gasket or two on hand. It does require at least 10 minutes of cussing, or it isn't a project. More than 2 hours worth gets you extra points. Check out that link. That may be all you need. The safety wire trick was invaluable. Tim On 8/10/2017 9:48 PM, Phillip Perry wrote: > > I am probably going to try installing a new (engine driven) fuel pump > tomorrow. Has anyone replaced theirs? > > What's he process like? I'm guessing I don't need to drain the oil to > swap it out? > > How much cussing does it require? > > It should be a simple process, but I could see fitting it under the > plunger and getting everything aligned could be a pain. Any tips would > help. I'd like to not fit with it for days. > > Thanks, > Phil > >




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