Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:06 AM - Re: Gust Lock Reviews (bill.peyton)
2. 07:43 AM - Re: Re: Gust Lock Reviews (Marcus Cooper)
3. 08:02 AM - Re: Gust Lock Reviews (bill.peyton)
4. 08:32 AM - Re: Re: Gust Lock Reviews (Rene)
5. 08:54 AM - Re: Gust Lock Reviews (civengpe)
6. 10:19 AM - Re: Re: Gust Lock Reviews (Rick Lark)
7. 12:48 PM - Re: Re: Gust Lock Reviews (Bill Watson)
8. 05:37 PM - Re: Re: Gust Lock Reviews (Dave Leikam)
9. 07:48 PM - Fuel pump - replacement (Phillip Perry)
10. 07:57 PM - Re: Fuel pump - replacement (Tim Olson)
11. 07:57 PM - Re: Fuel pump - replacement (Kelly McMullen)
12. 08:37 PM - Re: Fuel pump - replacement ()
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
I made this out of PVC. 600 hours and still working well
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471699#471699
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2857_740.jpg
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
Bill,
That's very similar to what I was thinking of making. Does it hold the stick
well in roll also?
My cargo strap around the taillight for a rudder lock isn't very professional looking,
but it works great.
Thanks,
Marcus
> On Aug 10, 2017, at 10:05 AM, bill.peyton <peyton.b@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
> I made this out of PVC. 600 hours and still working well
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471699#471699
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2857_740.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
Yes, it holds the stick and the rudder pedals. I have a #8 screw with a castellated
nut that protrudes through the front web that secures the end of the gust
lock from lateral movement. You can see it in the photos. Total cost under
$10.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471701#471701
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
Sorry no picture. I have a PVC model that is an "H". One of my first locks
tied in the stick and it failed when I needed it the most and I got rudder
damage. So I use the "H" pvc for the rudder and seat belt for the Stick.
Rene'
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bill.peyton
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 7:06 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Gust Lock Reviews
I made this out of PVC. 600 hours and still working well
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471699#471699
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2857_740.jpg
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
I built the PVC gust lock and have been happy with the results as well. Mine looks
exactly like the one above, except it doesn't lock the stick. It just goes
straight back and wedges on the back wall of the foot well. I use the seat
belt for the stick.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471709#471709
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
I 'll second Bill's comments wrt the gust lick.
Works very well
Rick
C-GDMH
Sent from my iPad
> On Aug 10, 2017, at 11:02 AM, bill.peyton <peyton.b@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>
> Yes, it holds the stick and the rudder pedals. I have a #8 screw with a castellated
nut that protrudes through the front web that secures the end of the gust
lock from lateral movement. You can see it in the photos. Total cost under
$10.
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471701#471701
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
I'm using the Bogey Bar as well. It's a mandatory item for moving the
plane around and just happens to work perfectly as a gust lock. It
seems almost 'tuned' to the RV10 in the sense that it jams down in front
of the seat cushion and fits into the rudder pedals without modification.
I used it for a while as is, then added two welded tabs to insure that
is stays jammed in the rudder pedals. Here's some more info:
Bogi Tow Bar as Control Lock
<http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=2223&log 0875&row=1>
On 8/9/2017 8:04 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> I use the very slightly modified Bogart tow bar as a control (all 3 axes) gust
lock. Works fine, no extra weight since I take the tow bar everywhere anyway.
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471686#471686
>
>
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Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Gust Lock Reviews |
I made my gust lock similar to all the ones shown out of PVC and an extendab
le paint roller pole. The ends fit into the top of the break pedals and wor
k as a parking break when installed. A small Velcro strap holds the stick t
ight against the assembly. The whole thing holds the breaks, rudder, elevat
or and ailerons when installed.
Dave Leikam
N89DA
> On Aug 10, 2017, at 2:48 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> I'm using the Bogey Bar as well. It's a mandatory item for moving the pla
ne around and just happens to work perfectly as a gust lock. It seems almos
t 'tuned' to the RV10 in the sense that it jams down in front of the seat cu
shion and fits into the rudder pedals without modification.
>
> I used it for a while as is, then added two welded tabs to insure that is s
tays jammed in the rudder pedals. Here's some more info:
> Bogi Tow Bar as Control Lock
>
>
>> On 8/9/2017 8:04 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>>
>> I use the very slightly modified Bogart tow bar as a control (all 3 axes)
gust lock. Works fine, no extra weight since I take the tow bar everywhere a
nyway.
>>
>> --------
>> Bob Turner
>> RV-10 QB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=471686#471686
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com
Message 9
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Subject: | Fuel pump - replacement |
I am probably going to try installing a new (engine driven) fuel pump tomorrow.
Has anyone replaced theirs?
What's he process like? I'm guessing I don't need to drain the oil to swap it
out?
How much cussing does it require?
It should be a simple process, but I could see fitting it under the plunger and
getting everything aligned could be a pain. Any tips would help. I'd like
to not fit with it for days.
Thanks,
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Fuel pump - replacement |
Phil,
My RV14 came with a pump that ended up having an SB on it so I replaced
it under warranty.
http://www.myrv14.com/N14YT/maintenance/20170408/index.html
There are some tips there for you. It's both a real pain in the butt,
and also
not too bad, all at the same time. You won't need to drain the oil, but
you should have a new gasket or two on hand. It does require at least
10 minutes of cussing, or it isn't a project. More than 2 hours worth
gets you extra points.
Check out that link. That may be all you need. The safety wire trick was
invaluable.
Tim
On 8/10/2017 9:48 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> I am probably going to try installing a new (engine driven) fuel pump tomorrow.
Has anyone replaced theirs?
>
> What's he process like? I'm guessing I don't need to drain the oil to swap
it out?
>
> How much cussing does it require?
>
> It should be a simple process, but I could see fitting it under the plunger and
getting everything aligned could be a pain. Any tips would help. I'd like
to not fit with it for days.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Fuel pump - replacement |
You want clear access to the area, which may mean removing scat tubing
around the oil cooler and the mufflers. You will need to hold the
plunger up while you insert the new pump. Then hold pump in place while
getting the first allen screw in place. Oh, yeah, you also need all the
fuel lines clear of the area. No, you do not need to drain oil.
Degree of difficulty depends on how clear your access is. I've done the
swap on back of IO-360 in a Mooney. Same pump, tighter firewall clearance.
On 8/10/2017 7:48 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> I am probably going to try installing a new (engine driven) fuel pump tomorrow.
Has anyone replaced theirs?
>
> What's he process like? I'm guessing I don't need to drain the oil to swap
it out?
>
> How much cussing does it require?
>
> It should be a simple process, but I could see fitting it under the plunger and
getting everything aligned could be a pain. Any tips would help. I'd like
to not fit with it for days.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Fuel pump - replacement |
The safety wire trick to put the plunger in a bind and hold it in place is
the way to go. I replaced my (O-320) pump a year or two ago, and it was very
easy. Probably a 30 minute job once I had all of the parts and tools on
hand...
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Fuel pump - replacement
Phil,
My RV14 came with a pump that ended up having an SB on it so I replaced
it under warranty.
http://www.myrv14.com/N14YT/maintenance/20170408/index.html
There are some tips there for you. It's both a real pain in the butt,
and also
not too bad, all at the same time. You won't need to drain the oil, but
you should have a new gasket or two on hand. It does require at least
10 minutes of cussing, or it isn't a project. More than 2 hours worth
gets you extra points.
Check out that link. That may be all you need. The safety wire trick was
invaluable.
Tim
On 8/10/2017 9:48 PM, Phillip Perry wrote:
>
> I am probably going to try installing a new (engine driven) fuel pump
> tomorrow. Has anyone replaced theirs?
>
> What's he process like? I'm guessing I don't need to drain the oil to
> swap it out?
>
> How much cussing does it require?
>
> It should be a simple process, but I could see fitting it under the
> plunger and getting everything aligned could be a pain. Any tips would
> help. I'd like to not fit with it for days.
>
> Thanks,
> Phil
>
>
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