RV10-List Digest Archive

Fri 05/04/18


Total Messages Posted: 6



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:14 AM - Re: The (Ground) Plane Truth (Jesse Saint)
     2. 06:22 AM - Re: Re: Private Pilot Training (Tim Olson)
     3. 09:02 AM - Door Seals (David J. Fritzsche)
     4. 01:00 PM - Re: Door Seals (Bob Turner)
     5. 03:38 PM - Re: Door Seals (Dan Charrois)
     6. 04:14 PM - baggage net (Rick Lark)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:14:37 AM PST US
    From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
    Subject: Re: The (Ground) Plane Truth
    I think the operative word is =9Cshould=9D. I have a plane in my hangar that is very nicely painted. However, the Paint shop painted over th e data plate. It=99s almost impossible to read it. Then they put their =9Cpainted by=9D sticker right next to the painted over data pl ate. What should happen is not always what does happen. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse@saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad > On May 3, 2018, at 10:58 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote: > > Waste of time Les. If you properly installed the antenna with gasket and/o r sealant > the paint shop should properly mask the antenna, so it doesn't get painted . > The grounding will be unchanged. On most com antennas, the ground path is t hrough > the 3 or 4 screws that attach the antenna to the doubler you put under the fuselage skin. > The clean way to do that is to install nut plates on the doubler, then riv et doubler to inside of fuselage skin. > That way the ground is with the nutplates and solid via rivets to fuselage . > Good installs include a bead of sealant around the outside edge of the ant enna. > Good paint shops protect antennas throughout skin prep and painting. > That said, be certain they protect the wheel bearings from pressure washin g, or repack the bearings before the > plane rolls out of the shop. > Kelly > > Sent from my IBM-360 main frame > >> On Thu, May 3, 2018 at 5:47 PM, kearney <kearney@shaw.ca> wrote: >> >> Hi >> >> I'll be the first to admit that my knowledge of radio physics is exceptio nally limited. This brings me to the question of ground planes. I am told th at a ground plane does not require metal to metal contact with an antenna. I s this correct? The reason I ask is I am wondering if I should un-install an tennas prior to paint? >> >> Cheers >> >> Les >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479827#479827 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> ========================= >> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navi gator?RV10-List >> ========================= >> FORUMS - >> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com >> ========================= >> WIKI - >> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com >> ========================= >> b Site - >> -Matt Dralle, List Admin. >> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contributio n >> ========================= >> >> >> >


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:22:28 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Private Pilot Training
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    No worries, I knew what you meant. To me the rules are actually pretty clear, and the few workarounds that there are, are also cut and dry, such as training for free. I once said that if I won that big lottery, I'd love to buy about 10 RV-12's, and make a fleet of trainers and offer free flight instruction to anyone who wanted to learn to fly. I figured if you could subsidize the cost to get into the activity, there would be a certain percentage of people who would drop out afterwards because they couldn't really afford to fly, but that a healthy percentage would continue on. And, I view the sheer number of pilots and growing the pilot population to be our most urgent issue. We need to get people to dream again, to get into the air, and to see how fun and useful it is. At that point, those who really have the dream will keep moving ahead, and that will drive everything from airplane sales to avionics and even improve todays politics. I think it could be done, in all RV-12's, if done for no cost to the trainee. Then, we also need to foster more and more flying clubs. We have precisely ZERO in my neck of the woods, and that would greatly help drive more flying. Now, if someone would just get me a winning lottery combination, I'll get right on it. Tim On 05/03/2018 09:46 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > My comments were with regard to an independent CFI charging for his/her > services with student in experimental. > If there is no transfer of funds, AFAIK no issue. I know that certain > very generous CFIs are literally giving of their > time and aircraft to provide transition training without FAA/insurance > involvement. I in fact benefited from > one such very generous individual. > If you don't want to be a sugar daddy, how about "Uncle"? 8^) >


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:02:27 AM PST US
    From: "David J. Fritzsche" <dfritz@bpgsim.com>
    Subject: Door Seals
    I am getting ready to install door seals. Some have installed them on the door openings and others have installed them on the doors themselves. Is there any consensus on which option is better or is this another primer war? David


    Message 4


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    Time: 01:00:41 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Door Seals
    From: "Bob Turner" <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
    Good analogy. IMHO technique and attention to detail are more important than the brand of paint you use. Same thing for brand and placement of door seals. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=479855#479855


    Message 5


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    Time: 03:38:56 PM PST US
    From: Dan Charrois <dan@syz.com>
    Subject: Re: Door Seals
    Not wanting to inflame any kind of war, and there are always "better ways" of doing things, but I installed the stock Van's seals exactly as they describe and have been really happy with them. I haven't noticed any leaks coming in, and though I agonized a lot of what to do initially, now that they're in and the plane has been flying for a bit more than a year, I honestly haven't given them a second thought. One thing I like about the seals on the door is that they lift out of the way when the door is open and people are less likely to catch on them when getting in and out. In particular, I've found that passengers with longer legs who jump in before I tell them the "proper way" to do so often struggle to get their legs in and if the seals were on the door openings they would definitely be catching on them. But of course, I've seen other RV-10s with seals on the frame and they look great. I'm sure that you'll be happy with whatever you decide to do. Dan > On 2018-May-04, at 9:59 AM, David J. Fritzsche <dfritz@bpgsim.com> wrote: > > > I am getting ready to install door seals. Some have installed them on the door openings and others have installed them on the doors themselves. Is there any consensus on which option is better or is this another primer war? > > David > > > > --- Dan Charrois President, Syzygy Research & Technology Phone: 780-961-2213


    Message 6


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    Time: 04:14:38 PM PST US
    From: "Rick Lark" <jrlark@bmts.com>
    Subject: baggage net
    Guys, I accidentally found a great cargo/baggage net for my RV10. I previously owned a 2013 VW diesel Passat that came with a black cargo net. The VW cargo net is the perfect size if your tie downs are in the bottom 4 corners of the baggage area. Even if your tie downs are elsewhere I think the VW net would work great. Rick C-GDMH #40956




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