Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:17 AM - Hot Start (Bill Hicks)
2. 08:01 AM - Re: Garmin interconnections ()
3. 09:19 AM - IFLYRV10.com (Marcus Cooper)
4. 04:44 PM - Re: IO-540 hot starts (Bill Watson)
5. 10:16 PM - Re: IO-540 hot starts (Dan Charrois)
Message 1
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Anyone using the Istart device and has that helped on hot start? Frustrating thing
to me is lack of consistent procedure that will successfully hot start the
beast. Almost 1000 hours and one procedure works for a while then have to change
to get a successful hot start.
Sent from my iPad
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| Subject: | Garmin interconnections |
Thank you Stein
It seems that my install manual is older, and the page you indicate belongs
to the most recent version.
I will have to check.
Thanks
Carlos
-----Mensagem original-----
De: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> Em nome de Stein Bruch
Enviada: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 7:57 PM
Para: rv10-list@matronics.com
Assunto: RE: RV10-List: Garmin interconnections
Page 27-25 of the install manual shows both the pinouts and the
configuration settings (for both the G3X side and the GTX side).
Cheers,
Stein
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 12:55 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Garmin interconnections
Guys
Does anyone in this magnificent group has GARMIN G3X and a Garmin
Transponder already working in his plane?
If yes, could you please share with me the interconnection schematics and
the configuration information, to help me putting my Transponder working.
Thanks
Carlos
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I recently ordered a seat slide lever set from the folks at IFLYRV10.COM
<http://iflyrv10.com/> but have not heard anything from them despite
sending a direct email. They happily took my payment via PayPal, but
does anyone know if they are still operating?
Thanks,
Marcus
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 hot starts |
I do cold starts on my stock Lyc like this - works without fail:
* Throttle and Mixture full back, Boost Pump on (it stays on until
after start)
* Throttle and Mixture full forward until pressure stops rising
quickly - 5-6 seconds, then pull them back. A bit on the long side
for cold wx, on the short side for warm wx.
* Then exactly what Dave does:
o Throttle barely open. On my quadrant, 1/8-1/4 inch off the idle
stop
o Mixture lean
o Crank until it starts to sputter
o Mixture gently forward
*
For hot starts I follow the same procedure but don't use the boost pump:
o Throttle barely open. On my quadrant, 1/8-1/4 inch off the idle
stop
o Mixture lean
o Crank until it starts to sputter (on hot starts it really sputters)
o Mixture gently forward (some cylinders will misfire for 5-6
seconds but works the same way)
o If I do the hot start thing and it doesn't sputter an fire, I
give a 2-3 second shot of Boost pump but don't open the throttle
or mixture, before cranking again.
No problems once I started using this procedure.
On 5/15/2018 9:06 PM, David Saylor wrote:
> I do fuel injected hot and cold starts, Lyc and Continental, all the
> same way:
>
> Throttle and mixture full forward
> Boost pump on for a good squirt. On my plane, I let the fuel pressure
> build until it stops rising quickly. That takes 5-6 seconds.
> Throttle barely open. On my quadrant, 1/8-1/4 inch off the idle stop
> Mixture lean
> Crank until it starts to sputter
> Mixture gently forward
>
> Mag switches depend on the airframe.
>
> This technique gives me start-to-idle RPM right away without the high
> RPM surge you hear around the ramp.
>
> If it doesn't start right away there are often other issues.
>
> As you suggested, the idea is to create a rich mixture, which leans
> itself to the required starting mixture as you crank. I'm not sure
> I'd call it "flooded".
>
> A healthy priming shot gets cool, liquid fuel into the system
> downstream of the spider. Up to that point all my FWF fuel lines are
> fire sleeved, so hopefully they have some degree of insulation against
> heat.
>
> If you're worried about degreasing your cylinder walls, I can say mine
> are fine after 1800 hours.
>
> This has worked well for me on RVs, Cessnas, Bonanzas, Pipers, etc.
>
> Your starter may have a time limit. Stick to that. Mine is 10
> seconds, then it has to cool for 20 seconds.
>
> I find that a lot of times some batteries can't crank long enough to
> clear out the excess fuel and get to the correct mixture. So of
> course the battery has to be in good shape, strong enough to crank to
> your starter time limit. 10 seconds, in my case, seems like a LONG
> time, especially when it usually starts in 2-3 seconds. But if I hang
> in there and let it crank away the excess fuel, I have pretty good luck.
>
> If it doesn't start, I usually start over from scratch.
>
> I think a lot of starting problems are timing related and battery
> related. Make sure those things are right and the starting gets a lot
> easier.
>
> --Dave
>
>
> On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 4:21 PM, Dan Charrois <dan@syz.com
> <mailto:dan@syz.com>> wrote:
>
> <mailto:dan@syz.com>>
>
> Hi everyone.
>
> I'm wondering what procedures people are using for starting their
> IO-540s, particularly hot starts.
>
> My setup is pretty much stock - no fuel return line, using the
> AVStar fuel injection system my factory Lycoming through Vans came
> with. Normal Slick magnetos (again, stock with the engine), with
> the SlickSTART module.
>
> For normal cold starts, what seems to work reliably for me is
> throttle open 1/2", boost pump on, mixture rich for a few seconds
> (until pressure stabilizes), then mixture ICO, boost pump off, and
> then start. As soon as the engine starts, I go full rich to
> ensure it keeps going and then usually right away after, pull the
> mixture back an inch or so. Pretty uneventful and usually works
> without muss or fuss.
>
> For hot starts (which in my plane seem to be necessary even if the
> engine's been off for nearly an hour), based on another discussion
> I read awhile ago, I have been doing a flooded procedure: throttle
> full forward, boost pump on, mixture rich for about 2 seconds then
> ICO, leave the boost pump on, and start cranking. After the
> engine starts (usually within 3 or 4 seconds), somehow get the
> mixture forward and throttle back at the same time. But since I'm
> not one of those with three hands, usually the engine surges to
> relatively high rpm before I can get the throttle back (I'd tried
> getting the throttle back first, but in so doing usually the
> engine quits before I can get the mixture forward. Getting the
> mixture forward right away after the engine fires usually means
> the engine keeps running, though I'm sure it's hard on the engine
> with not being able to get the throttle back right away.
>
> There's got to be a better way so hot starts can be reliable while
> keeping initial RPM low, to reduce wear and stress on the engine
> and prop, not to mention to just come off more professional :-) I
> saw one discussion awhile ago where a poster suggested 1/2"
> throttle, no boost pump at all, mixture ICO, crank and then if it
> doesn't fire, to slowly bring mixture forward until it does. I
> don't understand how it could fire at all while the mixture is at
> ICO if the boost pump hasn't pressurized fuel in the lines
> beforehand, but then I'm the furthest thing from an engine
> mechanic. Could a hot start procedure really be just that simple?
>
> So I'm wondering if anyone has advice on what they do, in a stock
> Lycoming system with regular Slick mags and no fuel return line.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan
> ---
> Dan Charrois
> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
> Phone: 780-961-2213
>
>
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>
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540 hot starts |
Thanks, everyone, for your tips and tricks to hot starting an IO-540. I've now
got a few more techniques up my sleeve to try - though the flooded procedure
I'd been using has worked, I certainly don't like it and am anxious to see how
well these other techniques fair.
Admittedly, I haven't tried it yet, but a few people responded with a process similar
to the hot start procedure below and I can't quite figure out how it would
work. If there is no boost pump to pressurize the lines while the mixture
is forward at least a little for a short bit of time, how would any fuel at all
get to the cylinders? Or by mixture lean, is the idea to have it lean-ish,
but not at full idle cut off? Because if the mixture is at full idle cut off
throughout the whole hot start procedure until the engine starts to sputter,
I can't see how fuel would get to the cylinders at all to get it to start to sputter
in the first place. If the intent is to lean but not full cut off, approximately
how lean are people using?
In any case, next time I go flying, I'm going to try a few of these techniques
and see how they go. Thanks again, everyone!
Dan
> On 2018-May-16, at 5:41 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> I do cold starts on my stock Lyc like this - works without fail:
> Throttle and Mixture full back, Boost Pump on (it stays on until after start)
> Throttle and Mixture full forward until pressure stops rising quickly - 5-6
seconds, then pull them back. A bit on the long side for cold wx, on the short
side for warm wx.
> Then exactly what Dave does:
> Throttle barely open. On my quadrant, 1/8-1/4 inch off the idle stop
> Mixture lean
> Crank until it starts to sputter
> Mixture gently forward
> For hot starts I follow the same procedure but don't use the boost pump:
> Throttle barely open. On my quadrant, 1/8-1/4 inch off the idle stop
> Mixture lean
> Crank until it starts to sputter (on hot starts it really sputters)
> Mixture gently forward (some cylinders will misfire for 5-6 seconds but works
the same way)
> If I do the hot start thing and it doesn't sputter an fire, I give a 2-3 second
shot of Boost pump but don't open the throttle or mixture, before cranking
again.
> No problems once I started using this procedure.
>
> On 5/15/2018 9:06 PM, David Saylor wrote:
>> I do fuel injected hot and cold starts, Lyc and Continental, all the same way:
>>
>> Throttle and mixture full forward
>> Boost pump on for a good squirt. On my plane, I let the fuel pressure build
until it stops rising quickly. That takes 5-6 seconds.
>> Throttle barely open. On my quadrant, 1/8-1/4 inch off the idle stop
>> Mixture lean
>> Crank until it starts to sputter
>> Mixture gently forward
>>
>> Mag switches depend on the airframe.
>>
>> This technique gives me start-to-idle RPM right away without the high RPM surge
you hear around the ramp.
>>
>> If it doesn't start right away there are often other issues.
>>
>> As you suggested, the idea is to create a rich mixture, which leans itself to
the required starting mixture as you crank. I'm not sure I'd call it "flooded".
>>
>> A healthy priming shot gets cool, liquid fuel into the system downstream of
the spider. Up to that point all my FWF fuel lines are fire sleeved, so hopefully
they have some degree of insulation against heat.
>>
>> If you're worried about degreasing your cylinder walls, I can say mine are fine
after 1800 hours.
>>
>> This has worked well for me on RVs, Cessnas, Bonanzas, Pipers, etc.
>>
>> Your starter may have a time limit. Stick to that. Mine is 10 seconds, then
it has to cool for 20 seconds.
>>
>> I find that a lot of times some batteries can't crank long enough to clear out
the excess fuel and get to the correct mixture. So of course the battery has
to be in good shape, strong enough to crank to your starter time limit. 10
seconds, in my case, seems like a LONG time, especially when it usually starts
in 2-3 seconds. But if I hang in there and let it crank away the excess fuel,
I have pretty good luck.
>>
>> If it doesn't start, I usually start over from scratch.
>>
>> I think a lot of starting problems are timing related and battery related.
Make sure those things are right and the starting gets a lot easier.
>>
>> --Dave
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, May 15, 2018 at 4:21 PM, Dan Charrois <dan@syz.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi everyone.
>>
>> I'm wondering what procedures people are using for starting their IO-540s, particularly
hot starts.
>>
>> My setup is pretty much stock - no fuel return line, using the AVStar fuel injection
system my factory Lycoming through Vans came with. Normal Slick magnetos
(again, stock with the engine), with the SlickSTART module.
>>
>> For normal cold starts, what seems to work reliably for me is throttle open
1/2", boost pump on, mixture rich for a few seconds (until pressure stabilizes),
then mixture ICO, boost pump off, and then start. As soon as the engine starts,
I go full rich to ensure it keeps going and then usually right away after,
pull the mixture back an inch or so. Pretty uneventful and usually works without
muss or fuss.
>>
>> For hot starts (which in my plane seem to be necessary even if the engine's
been off for nearly an hour), based on another discussion I read awhile ago, I
have been doing a flooded procedure: throttle full forward, boost pump on, mixture
rich for about 2 seconds then ICO, leave the boost pump on, and start cranking.
After the engine starts (usually within 3 or 4 seconds), somehow get
the mixture forward and throttle back at the same time. But since I'm not one
of those with three hands, usually the engine surges to relatively high rpm before
I can get the throttle back (I'd tried getting the throttle back first,
but in so doing usually the engine quits before I can get the mixture forward.
Getting the mixture forward right away after the engine fires usually means
the engine keeps running, though I'm sure it's hard on the engine with not being
able to get the throttle back right away.
>>
>> There's got to be a better way so hot starts can be reliable while keeping initial
RPM low, to reduce wear and stress on the engine and prop, not to mention
to just come off more professional :-) I saw one discussion awhile ago where
a poster suggested 1/2" throttle, no boost pump at all, mixture ICO, crank
and then if it doesn't fire, to slowly bring mixture forward until it does. I
don't understand how it could fire at all while the mixture is at ICO if the
boost pump hasn't pressurized fuel in the lines beforehand, but then I'm the furthest
thing from an engine mechanic. Could a hot start procedure really be
just that simple?
>>
>> So I'm wondering if anyone has advice on what they do, in a stock Lycoming system
with regular Slick mags and no fuel return line.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Dan
>> ---
>> Dan Charrois
>> President, Syzygy Research & Technology
>> Phone: 780-961-2213
>>
>>
>> ===================================
>> -List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ===================================
>> FORUMS -
>> eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> WIKI -
>> errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> b Site -
>> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>> rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
---
Dan Charrois
President, Syzygy Research & Technology
Phone: 780-961-2213
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