Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:53 AM - Re: Cabin heat valve (Rob Kermanj)
2. 05:15 AM - Wheel fairing build up (whodja)
3. 05:41 AM - Re: Cabin heat valve (Phillip Perry)
4. 05:53 AM - Re: Cabin heat valve (Rob Kermanj)
5. 06:01 AM - Re: Cabin heat valve (Phillip Perry)
6. 06:15 AM - Re: Cabin heat valve (Rob Kermanj)
7. 06:25 AM - Re: Cabin heat valve (Carl Froehlich)
8. 10:49 AM - Hot center channel (Doc)
9. 12:05 PM - Re: Hot center channel (Rob Kermanj)
10. 09:56 PM - Re: Hot center channel (Albert)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat valve |
I this what you are talking about? This is a quality valve but will not
change anything in the amount of heat directed at the firewall.
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 12:16 AM, Albert <ibspud@roadrunner.com> wrote:
>
>
> Some time back in a discussion of heat in the tunnel, I think there
was some discussion of an alternate valve on the firewall that diverted
hot air from the muffs into the cowl rather than blocking it. Supposedly
wade the heat problem less. Anyone remember the unit?
> Albert Gardner
> RV-10 N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wheel fairing build up |
The fairings from S Africa are exceptional! Perfect fit! Did you add the additional
2 layers as called for in the plans for the Vans fairing? The quality appears
to be good enough but any feedback is appreciated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=486166#486166
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat valve |
Plane Innovations has the stainless doors. Neither the aluminum or stainles
s doors actually block the airflow. In both doors the airflow is allowed t
o flow through the muffs, to the doors, and if the doors are closed at the f
irewall, the air flows out the bottom of the cowling.
What do the stainless doors do?
1) They=99re stainless so their melting point is higher than aluminum.
So and engine fire isn=99t going to burn them off as quickly.
2) They have a small lip (approximately 1/8=9D) that acts like a baffl
e to prevent leakage under the door. This is where the heat savings comes i
n. Rather than letting the air leak under a closed door, it=99s redir
ected away from the cracked opening and most of it goes out the bottom of th
e tunnel.
Do they work for heat related issues? Absolutely.
I have knowledge of two 10=99s within 8 miles of my house that have ex
perienced fuel related heat issues in the Texas summer. One could have turn
ed out very badly but fortunately didn=99t. Installing the doors made
a dramatic difference on both of those airplanes.
It=99s still a good idea to put a radiant barrier on the front of the f
irewall (that really helped me cool my feet off on long summer taxi=99
s) but the doors played a significant role in resolving the heat problems in
side the tunnel.
When installing them, it=99s a good idea to lay down a thick bead of f
irewall sealant under the doors and then screw the doors down about 3/4 of t
he way so they=99re not tight against the firewall. Then wait for th
e sealant to cure fully before tightening the doors down the rest of the wa
y. This keeps the cured sealant between the hot doors and the firewall and b
reaks up the thermal bridge between the doors and firewall. Thus your fire
wall doesn=99t act like a heatsink for your hot doors.
Other note for the archives: I chose to use the Cool It mat from ThermoTec o
n the (bottom 1/3) front side of the firewall. Adhesive backed, easy to cut
to shape, and sticks well assuming you get the surface clean. I used it to
line my lower cowling too. I=99m sure there are other good products o
ut there, but it=99s just what I used because the local Auto Zones car
ried it.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 5:51 AM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I this what you are talking about? This is a quality valve but will not c
hange anything in the amount of heat directed at the firewall.
>
>
>
>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 12:16 AM, Albert <ibspud@roadrunner.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Some time back in a discussion of heat in the tunnel, I think there was s
ome discussion of an alternate valve on the firewall that diverted hot air f
rom the muffs into the cowl rather than blocking it. Supposedly wade the hea
t problem less. Anyone remember the unit?
>> Albert Gardner
>> RV-10 N991RV
>> Yuma, AZ
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat valve |
Phil,
Can you give a link to =9CSS doors=9D? Plane Innovation
website shows a tribox similar to Van=99s
Thanks.
Rob
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 8:38 AM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
> Plane Innovations has the stainless doors. Neither the aluminum or
stainless doors actually block the airflow. In both doors the airflow
is allowed to flow through the muffs, to the doors, and if the doors are
closed at the firewall, the air flows out the bottom of the cowling.
>
> What do the stainless doors do?
> 1) They=99re stainless so their melting point is higher than
aluminum. So and engine fire isn=99t going to burn them off as
quickly.
>
> 2) They have a small lip (approximately 1/8=9D) that acts like a
baffle to prevent leakage under the door. This is where the heat
savings comes in. Rather than letting the air leak under a closed door,
it=99s redirected away from the cracked opening and most of it
goes out the bottom of the tunnel.
>
> Do they work for heat related issues? Absolutely.
>
> I have knowledge of two 10=99s within 8 miles of my house that
have experienced fuel related heat issues in the Texas summer. One
could have turned out very badly but fortunately didn=99t.
Installing the doors made a dramatic difference on both of those
airplanes.
>
> It=99s still a good idea to put a radiant barrier on the front
of the firewall (that really helped me cool my feet off on long summer
taxi=99s) but the doors played a significant role in resolving the
heat problems inside the tunnel.
>
> When installing them, it=99s a good idea to lay down a thick
bead of firewall sealant under the doors and then screw the doors down
about 3/4 of the way so they=99re not tight against the firewall.
Then wait for the sealant to cure fully before tightening the doors
down the rest of the way. This keeps the cured sealant between the hot
doors and the firewall and breaks up the thermal bridge between the
doors and firewall. Thus your firewall doesn=99t act like a
heatsink for your hot doors.
>
> Other note for the archives: I chose to use the Cool It mat from
ThermoTec on the (bottom 1/3) front side of the firewall. Adhesive
backed, easy to cut to shape, and sticks well assuming you get the
surface clean. I used it to line my lower cowling too. I=99m
sure there are other good products out there, but it=99s just what
I used because the local Auto Zones carried it.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 5:51 AM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com
<mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>>
>> I this what you are talking about? This is a quality valve but will
not change anything in the amount of heat directed at the firewall.
>>
>> <Screen Shot 2018-12-07 at 10.06.12 AM.png>
>>
>>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 12:16 AM, Albert <ibspud@roadrunner.com
<mailto:ibspud@roadrunner.com>> wrote:
>>>
<mailto:ibspud@roadrunner.com>>
>>>
>>> Some time back in a discussion of heat in the tunnel, I think there
was some discussion of an alternate valve on the firewall that diverted
hot air from the muffs into the cowl rather than blocking it. Supposedly
wade the heat problem less. Anyone remember the unit?
>>> Albert Gardner
>>> RV-10 N991RV
>>> Yuma, AZ
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>>> http://wiki.matronics.com <http://wiki.matronics.com/>
>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat valve |
That=99s it. It looks similar but is made of stainless.
http://www.planeinnovations.com/store/p1/Heater_Bypass_Valve.html
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 7:51 AM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Phil,
>
> Can you give a link to =9CSS doors=9D? Plane Innovation websi
te shows a tribox similar to Van=99s
>
> Thanks.
>
> Rob
>
>
>
>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 8:38 AM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Plane Innovations has the stainless doors. Neither the aluminum or stain
less doors actually block the airflow. In both doors the airflow is allowe
d to flow through the muffs, to the doors, and if the doors are closed at th
e firewall, the air flows out the bottom of the cowling.
>>
>> What do the stainless doors do?
>> 1) They=99re stainless so their melting point is higher than alumin
um. So and engine fire isn=99t going to burn them off as quickly.
>>
>> 2) They have a small lip (approximately 1/8=9D) that acts like a ba
ffle to prevent leakage under the door. This is where the heat savings come
s in. Rather than letting the air leak under a closed door, it=99s re
directed away from the cracked opening and most of it goes out the bottom of
the tunnel.
>>
>> Do they work for heat related issues? Absolutely.
>>
>> I have knowledge of two 10=99s within 8 miles of my house that have
experienced fuel related heat issues in the Texas summer. One could have t
urned out very badly but fortunately didn=99t. Installing the doors m
ade a dramatic difference on both of those airplanes.
>>
>> It=99s still a good idea to put a radiant barrier on the front of t
he firewall (that really helped me cool my feet off on long summer taxi
=99s) but the doors played a significant role in resolving the heat problems
inside the tunnel.
>>
>> When installing them, it=99s a good idea to lay down a thick bead o
f firewall sealant under the doors and then screw the doors down about 3/4 o
f the way so they=99re not tight against the firewall. Then wait for
the sealant to cure fully before tightening the doors down the rest of the
way. This keeps the cured sealant between the hot doors and the firewall a
nd breaks up the thermal bridge between the doors and firewall. Thus your f
irewall doesn=99t act like a heatsink for your hot doors.
>>
>> Other note for the archives: I chose to use the Cool It mat from ThermoTe
c on the (bottom 1/3) front side of the firewall. Adhesive backed, easy to c
ut to shape, and sticks well assuming you get the surface clean. I used it t
o line my lower cowling too. I=99m sure there are other good products
out there, but it=99s just what I used because the local Auto Zones c
arried it.
>>
>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 5:51 AM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I this what you are talking about? This is a quality valve but will not
change anything in the amount of heat directed at the firewall.
>>>
>>> <Screen Shot 2018-12-07 at 10.06.12 AM.png>
>>>
>>>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 12:16 AM, Albert <ibspud@roadrunner.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Some time back in a discussion of heat in the tunnel, I think there was
some discussion of an alternate valve on the firewall that diverted hot air
from the muffs into the cowl rather than blocking it. Supposedly wade the h
eat problem less. Anyone remember the unit?
>>>> Albert Gardner
>>>> RV-10 N991RV
>>>> Yuma, AZ
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat valve |
So, I have a SS Tribox with Silicone gasket that provides the thermal
break you are referring to. However, it does not seem to reduce the
cabin heat by a noticeable amount. The only time I have had success, is
when I block off the scat ducts at the baffles preventing any air from
flowing through the heat muffs. Vetterman has told me that it OK to not
have any flow through the muffs.
Still looking for improvement and considering firewall insulation.
Do you think there are additional steps the RV10s you are referring to
have done?
Thanks.
Do not archive
Rob
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 8:59 AM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
> That=99s it. It looks similar but is made of stainless.
>
> http://www.planeinnovations.com/store/p1/Heater_Bypass_Valve.html
<http://www.planeinnovations.com/store/p1/Heater_Bypass_Valve.html>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 7:51 AM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com
<mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>> Phil,
>>
>> Can you give a link to =9CSS doors=9D? Plane Innovation
website shows a tribox similar to Van=99s
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Rob
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 8:38 AM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com
<mailto:philperry9@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Plane Innovations has the stainless doors. Neither the aluminum or
stainless doors actually block the airflow. In both doors the airflow
is allowed to flow through the muffs, to the doors, and if the doors are
closed at the firewall, the air flows out the bottom of the cowling.
>>>
>>> What do the stainless doors do?
>>> 1) They=99re stainless so their melting point is higher than
aluminum. So and engine fire isn=99t going to burn them off as
quickly.
>>>
>>> 2) They have a small lip (approximately 1/8=9D) that acts like
a baffle to prevent leakage under the door. This is where the heat
savings comes in. Rather than letting the air leak under a closed door,
it=99s redirected away from the cracked opening and most of it
goes out the bottom of the tunnel.
>>>
>>> Do they work for heat related issues? Absolutely.
>>>
>>> I have knowledge of two 10=99s within 8 miles of my house that
have experienced fuel related heat issues in the Texas summer. One
could have turned out very badly but fortunately didn=99t.
Installing the doors made a dramatic difference on both of those
airplanes.
>>>
>>> It=99s still a good idea to put a radiant barrier on the front
of the firewall (that really helped me cool my feet off on long summer
taxi=99s) but the doors played a significant role in resolving the
heat problems inside the tunnel.
>>>
>>> When installing them, it=99s a good idea to lay down a thick
bead of firewall sealant under the doors and then screw the doors down
about 3/4 of the way so they=99re not tight against the firewall.
Then wait for the sealant to cure fully before tightening the doors
down the rest of the way. This keeps the cured sealant between the hot
doors and the firewall and breaks up the thermal bridge between the
doors and firewall. Thus your firewall doesn=99t act like a
heatsink for your hot doors.
>>>
>>> Other note for the archives: I chose to use the Cool It mat from
ThermoTec on the (bottom 1/3) front side of the firewall. Adhesive
backed, easy to cut to shape, and sticks well assuming you get the
surface clean. I used it to line my lower cowling too. I=99m
sure there are other good products out there, but it=99s just what
I used because the local Auto Zones carried it.
>>>
>>> Phil
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 5:51 AM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com
<mailto:flysrv10@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I this what you are talking about? This is a quality valve but
will not change anything in the amount of heat directed at the firewall.
>>>>
>>>> <Screen Shot 2018-12-07 at 10.06.12 AM.png>
>>>>
>>>>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 12:16 AM, Albert <ibspud@roadrunner.com
<mailto:ibspud@roadrunner.com>> wrote:
>>>>>
<mailto:ibspud@roadrunner.com>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Some time back in a discussion of heat in the tunnel, I think
there was some discussion of an alternate valve on the firewall that
diverted hot air from the muffs into the cowl rather than blocking it.
Supposedly wade the heat problem less. Anyone remember the unit?
>>>>> Albert Gardner
>>>>> RV-10 N991RV
>>>>> Yuma, AZ
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List>
>>>>> http://wiki.matronics.com <http://wiki.matronics.com/>
>>>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat valve |
What I did.
I installed a piece Koolmat between the cabin heat boxes and the firewall (h
oles cut out for the boxes): https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appag
es/koolmat.php. I extended the mat over the top of the boxes, then down and o
ver the front of the boxes. My thinking:
- No matter what box you use, if you hard mount it to the firewall you will p
rovide a very good heat transfer path to the tunnel (flapper open or shut).
The mat between the box and the firewall mitigates this problem.
- During the summer you are still pumping huge amounts of heated air toward t
he cabin boxes. The hot air bounces off the closed flapper and right back a
t the engine (in the area of the mechanical fuel pump). The Koolmat draped o
ver the front of the boxes redirects this heated air down to the cowl exit.
One other mod was to put a 3/4=9D orifice in each heat muff SCAT hose b
affle flange. On the coldest day I was only using a fraction of the heat th
at the system provides, so why have all that air taken away from engine cool
ing if not needed? I still only crack open the aft heat on cold days.
Never had a tunnel heat problem.
Carl
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Phil,
>
> Can you give a link to =9CSS doors=9D? Plane Innovation websi
te shows a tribox similar to Van=99s
>
> Thanks.
>
> Rob
>
>
>
>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 8:38 AM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Plane Innovations has the stainless doors. Neither the aluminum or stain
less doors actually block the airflow. In both doors the airflow is allowe
d to flow through the muffs, to the doors, and if the doors are closed at th
e firewall, the air flows out the bottom of the cowling.
>>
>> What do the stainless doors do?
>> 1) They=99re stainless so their melting point is higher than alumin
um. So and engine fire isn=99t going to burn them off as quickly.
>>
>> 2) They have a small lip (approximately 1/8=9D) that acts like a ba
ffle to prevent leakage under the door. This is where the heat savings come
s in. Rather than letting the air leak under a closed door, it=99s re
directed away from the cracked opening and most of it goes out the bottom of
the tunnel.
>>
>> Do they work for heat related issues? Absolutely.
>>
>> I have knowledge of two 10=99s within 8 miles of my house that have
experienced fuel related heat issues in the Texas summer. One could have t
urned out very badly but fortunately didn=99t. Installing the doors m
ade a dramatic difference on both of those airplanes.
>>
>> It=99s still a good idea to put a radiant barrier on the front of t
he firewall (that really helped me cool my feet off on long summer taxi
=99s) but the doors played a significant role in resolving the heat problems
inside the tunnel.
>>
>> When installing them, it=99s a good idea to lay down a thick bead o
f firewall sealant under the doors and then screw the doors down about 3/4 o
f the way so they=99re not tight against the firewall. Then wait for
the sealant to cure fully before tightening the doors down the rest of the
way. This keeps the cured sealant between the hot doors and the firewall a
nd breaks up the thermal bridge between the doors and firewall. Thus your f
irewall doesn=99t act like a heatsink for your hot doors.
>>
>> Other note for the archives: I chose to use the Cool It mat from ThermoTe
c on the (bottom 1/3) front side of the firewall. Adhesive backed, easy to c
ut to shape, and sticks well assuming you get the surface clean. I used it t
o line my lower cowling too. I=99m sure there are other good products
out there, but it=99s just what I used because the local Auto Zones c
arried it.
>>
>> Phil
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 5:51 AM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I this what you are talking about? This is a quality valve but will not
change anything in the amount of heat directed at the firewall.
>>>
>>> <Screen Shot 2018-12-07 at 10.06.12 AM.png>
>>>
>>>> On Dec 8, 2018, at 12:16 AM, Albert <ibspud@roadrunner.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Some time back in a discussion of heat in the tunnel, I think there was
some discussion of an alternate valve on the firewall that diverted hot air
from the muffs into the cowl rather than blocking it. Supposedly wade the h
eat problem less. Anyone remember the unit?
>>>> Albert Gardner
>>>> RV-10 N991RV
>>>> Yuma, AZ
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Hot center channel |
Our center channel would get so hot you didn't want to leave your hand
on it. I read a report of vapor locking in the fuel lines in the center
channel when we were building so, we put a piece of fire wall insulation
over the fuel lines and sealed the heat boxes with RTV silicone also to
try to keep any air flow out. Center channel was still "hot". Put fire
wall insulation from Wicks on fire wall. Center channel is only "warm"
now even in 90 plus degree weather. I am convinced the fire wall
insulation is the major thing to do to keep the center channel cool.
However, I would also recommend insulating the center channel, etc. You
also have to put insulation "mats" on each side of the engine cowling or
the eghaust heat will warp the cowling.
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Hot center channel |
Do you have the pattern for firewall pieces that you can share?
Thanks
Do not archive
> On Dec 8, 2018, at 1:47 PM, Doc <docclv@windstream.net> wrote:
>
>
> Our center channel would get so hot you didn't want to leave your hand on it.
I read a report of vapor locking in the fuel lines in the center channel when
we were building so, we put a piece of fire wall insulation over the fuel lines
and sealed the heat boxes with RTV silicone also to try to keep any air flow
out. Center channel was still "hot". Put fire wall insulation from Wicks
on fire wall. Center channel is only "warm" now even in 90 plus degree weather.
I am convinced the fire wall insulation is the major thing to do to keep the
center channel cool. However, I would also recommend insulating the center
channel, etc. You also have to put insulation "mats" on each side of the engine
cowling or the eghaust heat will warp the cowling.
>
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Hot center channel |
After reading the comments I'm wondering about making a removable
restrictor/air dam in front on the scat tube. Normally need very little heat
in Arizona although last winter in Missouri max heat was needed on very cold
days. I guess one could make a shutter like dam that could be operated from
the cockpit as opposed to having to remove the top cowl. I installed a
sliding restrictor to block heat on my side in the cabin since my wife
usually wants a lot more heat than I do.
Albert Gardner
RV-10 N991RV
Yuma, AZ
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|