Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:04 AM - Re: Rivets in backwards on elevator hinge brackets ()
2. 06:39 AM - Re: Rivets in backwards on elevator hinge brackets ()
3. 07:03 AM - Re: Anti-Splat Gust Lock (Tim Olson)
4. 11:57 AM - Re: Anti-Splat Gust Lock (dmaib@me.com)
5. 06:59 PM - Re: Anti-Splat Gust Lock (Kelly McMullen)
6. 08:18 PM - Re: Anti-Splat Gust Lock (Tim Olson)
7. 08:19 PM - Re: Anti-Splat Gust Lock (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Rivets in backwards on elevator hinge brackets |
Bruce,
This question was ask several years ago on the RV forum. Here is the answer:
Per the plans, on one of the hinge brackets (I think it may have been the
elevator hinge) the plans specifically say which way to install the
manufactured head. Well, I did it backwards. I think I put the shop head
against the steel bracket and the manufactured head on the aluminum part
which was logical to me.
So I called Van's, and asked if I needed to drill those rivets out.
At first, the "expert" said hmmmm, don't remember that or why it says that
but he would check into it for me.
Later he called back to say no one know why those instructions read that way
and I can ignore it and leave the rivets in place.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of bechis1@att.net
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 7:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rivets in backwards on elevator hinge brackets
I accidentally riveted the elevator hinge brackets on my RV-10 horizontal
stabilizer rear spar with the manufactured head on the inside of the spar
rather than on the hinge bracket side. The instructions clearly state to
put the mfg head on the bracket side (I know, I know, read the directions
before riveting, not after!) It was easier for my squeezer to work it that
way, and I chose the easy way. So my question is does it really matter
which way the rivet is installed? I would think it's not an elevator swing
clearance issue or a strength issue. So what am I missing?
Bruce.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Rivets in backwards on elevator hinge brackets |
Thank you. I did search the forums but nothing obvious came up in the
titles.
Bruce.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of
bmcglamery@embarqmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2020 9:03 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Rivets in backwards on elevator hinge brackets
Bruce,
This question was ask several years ago on the RV forum. Here is the answer:
Per the plans, on one of the hinge brackets (I think it may have been the
elevator hinge) the plans specifically say which way to install the
manufactured head. Well, I did it backwards. I think I put the shop head
against the steel bracket and the manufactured head on the aluminum part
which was logical to me.
So I called Van's, and asked if I needed to drill those rivets out.
At first, the "expert" said hmmmm, don't remember that or why it says that
but he would check into it for me.
Later he called back to say no one know why those instructions read that way
and I can ignore it and leave the rivets in place.
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com>
<owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com> > On Behalf Of bechis1@att.net
<mailto:bechis1@att.net>
Sent: Monday, June 22, 2020 7:13 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Rivets in backwards on elevator hinge brackets
I accidentally riveted the elevator hinge brackets on my RV-10 horizontal
stabilizer rear spar with the manufactured head on the inside of the spar
rather than on the hinge bracket side. The instructions clearly state to
put the mfg head on the bracket side (I know, I know, read the directions
before riveting, not after!) It was easier for my squeezer to work it that
way, and I chose the easy way. So my question is does it really matter
which way the rivet is installed? I would think it's not an elevator swing
clearance issue or a strength issue. So what am I missing?
Bruce.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Anti-Splat Gust Lock |
I have no idea how much force exactly I'm pushing the rudder pedals
with when I use my rudder gust lock, but, I push them both with my
feet and then set the lock. When I get out, I can only move the
rudder back and forth maybe an inch or two without it being
real tight. I've had 60+ mph winds cause damage, but all before I
had this good tight rudder gust lock.
I don't think the ailerons need nearly the solid locking that the
very loose rudder does. wrapping a seat belt around the stick
could at least make is slower to move. There are designs that
do lock it in place though.
For the elevators, I do mine with the seat belt, but it's also
connected to the rudder gust lock, so that the elevator is
neutral. It doesn't make sense to do a full forward or full
aft stick to tie up your elevators, because you're just going to
make them much more wind-draggy if they aren't neutral and
be more susceptible to damage, or even lift, if they aren't
close to neutral.
The simple external gust lock made by a strip of aluminum
and a couple of bolts with vinyl covering on them may be
a good aileron gust lock that is simple and light, if you want
an external one. Just make sure to add the remove before
flight streamer to it.
Tim
On 6/19/2020 4:36 PM, Marcus Cooper wrote:
>
> Now that my RV-10 has been banished to the outdoors for the foreseeable future
I broke down and ordered the gust lock from Anti-splat. It does well with the
elevator, fair with the rudders but only adequate with the ailerons. I was
wondering what experience anyone has with how much tension to put on the rudder
cables? Ive got it pushed pretty hard and dont want to overdo it but realize
I may need to extend the rod by another hole or two if it want case unnecessary
stress.
>
> Thanks,
> Marcus
> Just rolled over 1,000 hours
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Anti-Splat Gust Lock |
Would you be able to send me a photo of your anti-splat gust lock installed on
your -10? I bought one a few years ago and could not make it work on my airplane.
When installed, it holds the elevator and ailerons neutral, and of course
the rudder pedals are even. The problem on mine, is that the elevator is not truly
locked in the neutral position. In other words, with the unit installed,
I can pull back on the stick (or walk to the back of the airplane and raise the
elevator above neutral) and that pulls the rudder locks off the pedals and now
the rudders are unlocked. I have talked to Anti-Splat more than once, but they
have not been able to help me. There is no way I would consider the controls
to be locked if a gust can pick up the elevator and pull the lock mechanism
off.
I know of a couple of others who have had this experience. I also know of a few
on this forum and others that say theirs work fine.
Signed,
Perplexed
--------
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=497014#497014
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Anti-Splat Gust Lock |
Tim,
I very much like and copied your design. Having some surfaces on earlier
aircraft scraped, or dinged by external control locks, I much prefer
locking the controls at the rudders and stick.
Obviously, Cessna felt that way when they put control lock through the
control column. In both Cessna's case and your internal lock, it is
impossible to operate the controls without removing the lock.
Kelly
Sent from my TRS-80 Model 100
On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 7:08 AM Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> I have no idea how much force exactly I'm pushing the rudder pedals
> with when I use my rudder gust lock, but, I push them both with my
> feet and then set the lock. When I get out, I can only move the
> rudder back and forth maybe an inch or two without it being
> real tight. I've had 60+ mph winds cause damage, but all before I
> had this good tight rudder gust lock.
>
> I don't think the ailerons need nearly the solid locking that the
> very loose rudder does. wrapping a seat belt around the stick
> could at least make is slower to move. There are designs that
> do lock it in place though.
>
> For the elevators, I do mine with the seat belt, but it's also
> connected to the rudder gust lock, so that the elevator is
> neutral. It doesn't make sense to do a full forward or full
> aft stick to tie up your elevators, because you're just going to
> make them much more wind-draggy if they aren't neutral and
> be more susceptible to damage, or even lift, if they aren't
> close to neutral.
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Anti-Splat Gust Lock |
I am pretty happy with the one I have now.
My original painting stick things where you had to twist lock them
weren't quite strong enough. Twice I had my rudder trailing edge
bent by wind when the gust lock moved. But, with the one I'm using
now it's heavier, but is a super solid lock. I built one for the
RV-14 also. Now they don't go anywhere, and the elevator is
neutral as well. One of these days I'm going to build a new rudder, but
this one at least bent back well. I have the parts, but not excited
to have to paint it.
Hope all is well with you, Kelly. It's been halfway miserable for
me here. :) I got furloughed a the end of April. No pay coming in.
Just in time for my new Lycoming Thunderbolt to be built. It should
ship any day now. So there was my safety money. Ordered the dang
thing at OSH last year. Now I have all the time in the world
to swap engines, but no money to fly it. :) At least until I
get the old one sold. It has 1450 hours on it and I have a guy who
says he'll take it. That should keep me surviving until the end of the
year if things don't improve. Supposedly I can go back to work
after August 15, but not sure if they really will stick to that.
Otherwise, at least we're all alive here in Wisconsin. We're in
a low-COVID area. Had our first death in Eau Claire county just
last week. I think 750 for the whole state, but most are on
the east side of the state and a few in LaCrosse.
Well, take care and hope you are getting out to fly!
Tim
On 6/23/20 8:56 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Tim,
> I very much like and copied your design. Having some surfaces on earlier
> aircraft scraped, or dinged by external control locks, I much prefer
> locking the controls at the rudders and stick.
> Obviously, Cessna felt that way when they put control lock through the
> control column. In both Cessna's case and your internal lock, it is
> impossible to operate the controls without removing the lock.
> Kelly
>
> Sent from myTRS-80 Model 100
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 7:08 AM Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com
> <mailto:Tim@myrv10.com>> wrote:
>
>
> I have no idea how much force exactly I'm pushing the rudder pedals
> with when I use my rudder gust lock, but, I push them both with my
> feet and then set the lock. When I get out, I can only move the
> rudder back and forth maybe an inch or two without it being
> real tight. I've had 60+ mph winds cause damage, but all before I
> had this good tight rudder gust lock.
>
> I don't think the ailerons need nearly the solid locking that the
> very loose rudder does. wrapping a seat belt around the stick
> could at least make is slower to move. There are designs that
> do lock it in place though.
>
> For the elevators, I do mine with the seat belt, but it's also
> connected to the rudder gust lock, so that the elevator is
> neutral. It doesn't make sense to do a full forward or full
> aft stick to tie up your elevators, because you're just going to
> make them much more wind-draggy if they aren't neutral and
> be more susceptible to damage, or even lift, if they aren't
> close to neutral.
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Anti-Splat Gust Lock |
LOL, guess everyone knows my life story now. Sorry, I didn't see that
was to the list. :)
Anyway, hope your 2020 is going well!
Tim
On 6/23/20 8:56 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> Tim,
> I very much like and copied your design. Having some surfaces on earlier
> aircraft scraped, or dinged by external control locks, I much prefer
> locking the controls at the rudders and stick.
> Obviously, Cessna felt that way when they put control lock through the
> control column. In both Cessna's case and your internal lock, it is
> impossible to operate the controls without removing the lock.
> Kelly
>
> Sent from myTRS-80 Model 100
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 23, 2020 at 7:08 AM Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com
> <mailto:Tim@myrv10.com>> wrote:
>
>
> I have no idea how much force exactly I'm pushing the rudder pedals
> with when I use my rudder gust lock, but, I push them both with my
> feet and then set the lock. When I get out, I can only move the
> rudder back and forth maybe an inch or two without it being
> real tight. I've had 60+ mph winds cause damage, but all before I
> had this good tight rudder gust lock.
>
> I don't think the ailerons need nearly the solid locking that the
> very loose rudder does. wrapping a seat belt around the stick
> could at least make is slower to move. There are designs that
> do lock it in place though.
>
> For the elevators, I do mine with the seat belt, but it's also
> connected to the rudder gust lock, so that the elevator is
> neutral. It doesn't make sense to do a full forward or full
> aft stick to tie up your elevators, because you're just going to
> make them much more wind-draggy if they aren't neutral and
> be more susceptible to damage, or even lift, if they aren't
> close to neutral.
>
>
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