RV10-List Digest Archive

Thu 09/02/21


Total Messages Posted: 5



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:47 AM - 2nd pair of wing tanks (Andi K)
     2. 07:07 AM - Re: 2nd pair of wing tanks (Charlie England)
     3. 08:37 AM - Re: Cooling (Robert Jones)
     4. 10:43 AM - Re: Cooling (Charlie England)
     5. 05:00 PM - Re: Cooling (Robert Jones)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:47:18 AM PST US
    From: Andi K <andreas.kerwel@gmail.com>
    Subject: 2nd pair of wing tanks
    Hello fellow builders, I have been flying my RV-10 for almost 5 years with 350 hours. Rumor has it that some RV builders added a second pair of tanks to their wings. I would like to hear from their experience of how to install these and if it's possible to add them to a finished wing. I am aware of tip tanks and bladder tanks and might consider those if a second pair of wing tanks is not feasible. Blue skies Andi Kerwel


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:07:11 AM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: 2nd pair of wing tanks
    I added a pair of leading edge 'wet wing' tanks to my RV7 project, following the lead of a couple of -9 builders. Much simpler to do as the wings are built, but *might* be do-able on a flying -10. I once met a guy who was buying unfinished all-metal Mustang replicas and completing them. They had woefully inadequate fuel capacity as designed. He would cut an access holes in the bottom skin of each bay of the leading edge, reach inside with a cleaning solution on all the joints/seams/rivet heads, and then proseal them. Finished up with prosealed doubler rings and access covers. I'm comfortable with the idea on a -7 because it's stressed for acro, and it will never be flown at acro loads with fuel in the aux tanks. Your call on the -10. Another option that has been offered commercially for the 2 seat RVs are tubular tanks that slide into the lightening holes in the wings. Limited capacity for the added weight, but if you just need a little, it might be an option. On Thu, Sep 2, 2021 at 7:51 AM Andi K <andreas.kerwel@gmail.com> wrote: > Hello fellow builders, > > I have been flying my RV-10 for almost 5 years with 350 hours. > > Rumor has it that some RV builders added a second pair of tanks to their > wings. > > I would like to hear from their experience of how to install these and if > it's possible to add them to a finished wing. > > > I am aware of tip tanks and bladder tanks and might consider those if a > second pair of wing tanks is not feasible. > > > Blue skies > > Andi Kerwel >


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:37:21 AM PST US
    From: Robert Jones <rjones560xl@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Cooling
    What kind of battery are you using for avionics backup? Is it the Odyssey 680 as you seem to infer without actually saying so? I am running an EarthX ETX900 on the firewall as my main ships battery. I have a Dynon 3 screen EFIS setup with a Dynon backup battery on each screen. My ETX900 ran hot until I modified the battery box and put a blast tube on it. I live in LAS and I have flown when the temp was 110F with no problem. You might consider one of the vented EarthX batteries behind the firewall for a backup to avoid the heat. You get a lot of power for the weight. I might ask, what avionics package do you have, and have you installed a second alternator on the vacuum pad. I did and consider it a better deal than another battery. I set the alternators up with a 3 position switch. Only one alternator can be selected at a time. Heat buildup behind the baffles after shutdown is an unavoidable problem as latent heat from the engine is going to heat up that area. The problem is not how hot it gets in flight because there is constant air movement. The problem is latent heat after shutdown as I am sure you are well aware. Additional cooling during flight is probably not going to help. I would love to hear anyone elses ideas on this as I do not consider myself an expert at all. However I did get an award for Outstanding Workmanship at Airventure this year for N810RK so I did manage to learn a little during the 10 years I took to build it. Robert Jones > On Sep 1, 2021, at 11:15 AM, dlm <dlm34077@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Has anyone made a cowl mod to improve cooling behind the baffling and forward of the firewall?. Living in Arizona leaves me with excess heat in that area, I have an air intake on top portion of baffling near cylinder 5 but the 1 inch line takes in air passing over the clys 1,3,5 before sending it behind the baffling.After shutdown,although I open the oil door , the temps still rise behind the baffling. The result is that the avionics backup battery only lasts about two years when other Odyssey 680s last 5-8 years when installed aft of the baggage closeout.what have others done for excess heat? cowl flaps or vents? > > David Mcneill.


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:43:39 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Cooling
    From: Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com>
    Congrats on the award! Slight detour from the subject, but I noticed that you are using one switch to control both alts. It may be a very reliable switch, but a multi-position switch in that application *is* a single point of failure for the whole charging system. Probably not a big deal in a VFR, conventional engine'd a/c, but for IFR or an electrically dependent (electronic injection) engine, it's something to think about. Charlie On 9/2/2021 10:36 AM, Robert Jones wrote: > > What kind of battery are you using for avionics backup? Is it the Odyssey 680 as you seem to infer without actually saying so? I am running an EarthX ETX900 on the firewall as my main ships battery. I have a Dynon 3 screen EFIS setup with a Dynon backup battery on each screen. My ETX900 ran hot until I modified the battery box and put a blast tube on it. I live in LAS and I have flown when the temp was 110F with no problem. You might consider one of the vented EarthX batteries behind the firewall for a backup to avoid the heat. You get a lot of power for the weight. I might ask, what avionics package do you have, and have you installed a second alternator on the vacuum pad. I did and consider it a better deal than another battery. I set the alternators up with a 3 position switch. Only one alternator can be selected at a time. > > Heat buildup behind the baffles after shutdown is an unavoidable problem as latent heat from the engine is going to heat up that area. The problem is not how hot it gets in flight because there is constant air movement. The problem is latent heat after shutdown as I am sure you are well aware. Additional cooling during flight is probably not going to help. > > I would love to hear anyone elses ideas on this as I do not consider myself an expert at all. However I did get an award for Outstanding Workmanship at Airventure this year for N810RK so I did manage to learn a little during the 10 years I took to build it. > > Robert Jones > >> On Sep 1, 2021, at 11:15 AM, dlm <dlm34077@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> >> Has anyone made a cowl mod to improve cooling behind the baffling and forward of the firewall?. Living in Arizona leaves me with excess heat in that area, I have an air intake on top portion of baffling near cylinder 5 but the 1 inch line takes in air passing over the clys 1,3,5 before sending it behind the baffling.After shutdown,although I open the oil door , the temps still rise behind the baffling. The result is that the avionics backup battery only lasts about two years when other Odyssey 680s last 5-8 years when installed aft of the baggage closeout.what have others done for excess heat? cowl flaps or vents? >> >> -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus


    Message 5


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    Time: 05:00:39 PM PST US
    From: Robert Jones <rjones560xl@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Cooling
    The switch is a very high quality switch that provides a very small ground signal to a terminal on the VPX PRO, which turns on the field for one alternator, or the other. Running both alternators at the same time is generally not a good idea. My lithium iron battery has a tendency to really suck up the amps after startup (it goes right to 60 amps) and the battery I have is only rated for a 60 amp alternator. That is one reason for a single switch. However, I can turn on either field through the VPX PRO even if the switch fails, which is true for everything else also so I do have a backup. Its a serious IFR aircraft. I have 3 GPS receivers, 2 DYNON and one Garmin, and a VOR receiver. Robert Jones > On Sep 2, 2021, at 10:48 AM, Charlie England <ceengland7@gmail.com> wrote: > > > Congrats on the award! > > Slight detour from the subject, but I noticed that you are using one switch to control both alts. It may be a very reliable switch, but a multi-position switch in that application *is* a single point of failure for the whole charging system. Probably not a big deal in a VFR, conventional engine'd a/c, but for IFR or an electrically dependent (electronic injection) engine, it's something to think about. > > Charlie > >> On 9/2/2021 10:36 AM, Robert Jones wrote: >> >> What kind of battery are you using for avionics backup? Is it the Odyssey 680 as you seem to infer without actually saying so? I am running an EarthX ETX900 on the firewall as my main ships battery. I have a Dynon 3 screen EFIS setup with a Dynon backup battery on each screen. My ETX900 ran hot until I modified the battery box and put a blast tube on it. I live in LAS and I have flown when the temp was 110F with no problem. You might consider one of the vented EarthX batteries behind the firewall for a backup to avoid the heat. You get a lot of power for the weight. I might ask, what avionics package do you have, and have you installed a second alternator on the vacuum pad. I did and consider it a better deal than another battery. I set the alternators up with a 3 position switch. Only one alternator can be selected at a time. >> >> Heat buildup behind the baffles after shutdown is an unavoidable problem as latent heat from the engine is going to heat up that area. The problem is not how hot it gets in flight because there is constant air movement. The problem is latent heat after shutdown as I am sure you are well aware. Additional cooling during flight is probably not going to help. >> >> I would love to hear anyone elses ideas on this as I do not consider myself an expert at all. However I did get an award for Outstanding Workmanship at Airventure this year for N810RK so I did manage to learn a little during the 10 years I took to build it. >> >> Robert Jones >> >>>> On Sep 1, 2021, at 11:15 AM, dlm <dlm34077@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> >>> Has anyone made a cowl mod to improve cooling behind the baffling and forward of the firewall?. Living in Arizona leaves me with excess heat in that area, I have an air intake on top portion of baffling near cylinder 5 but the 1 inch line takes in air passing over the clys 1,3,5 before sending it behind the baffling.After shutdown,although I open the oil door , the temps still rise behind the baffling. The result is that the avionics backup battery only lasts about two years when other Odyssey 680s last 5-8 years when installed aft of the baggage closeout.what have others done for excess heat? cowl flaps or vents? >>> >>> > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > > >




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