Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:43 AM - Re: RV3B new project (Larry West)
2. 03:41 PM - RV3 helpfull information (Fred Bauer Jr)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV3B new project |
--> RV3-List message posted by: "Larry West" <TAILSKIDWEST@peoplepc.com>
Hi Fred,
My Rv-3 has almost 900 hours on it with a hot rodded O-320-B2 and a Pacesetter
wood prop. I did not build this machine, but just completed going clear through
it to change the stuff I didn't like. On the battery, I got rid of the "boat
anchor" RG-25 aircraft battery and installed an Odessey PC-680. The original
battery was located just ahead of the stick and I didn't like having it in
the way getting in and out of the airplane. Additionally, the electric fuel pump
was ahead of the battery. A friend of mine's RV-3 sprung a fuel leak and
he had fuel about a 1/2 deep on the cockpit floor by the time he landed ......
another good reason not to put the battery up front! My battery is now located
just behind the seat in the baggage compartment. The light weight of the PC-680
battery only moved the cg aft 1/2 inch. The big improvement is now there
is much more room up front. With the -3 rigged and trimmed out, I can now move
my feet off the rudder pedals and even stretch my legs out!
On the exhaust, I'm running the Vetterman 4 pipe "zoomies". They are well built,
and sound great. The best thing is the way they get the heat out of the engine
compartment. After flying and taxiing back to the hangar, by the time I
shut down and get out and walk around, you can touch the exhaust pipes and not
get burnt. My CHT runs cool and the engine seems happy. You can also take the
clamps loose at the aft end and rotate them down about 2 to 3 inches when working
on the carb or behind the engine. They only required a small "blister"
at the aft bottom edge of the lower cowl for clearance. Be sure to put the insulation
blanket in the lower cowl to prevent blistering of the fiberglass/paint.
Contact me off list if you would like pix of both the exhaust and/or battery
installation. As with all airplanes ..... the lighter the better! Cheers,
Larry
Message 2
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| Subject: | RV3 helpfull information |
--> RV3-List message posted by: "Fred Bauer Jr" <fredbauerjr@cox.net>
Thanks for the feedback Larry, this information and the information the
others have gotten to me is just what I was hoping for.
I really appreciate the time everyone has taken to write me back with their
experience history, I will sure do my part to help all.
Regards,
Fred
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry West" <TAILSKIDWEST@peoplepc.com>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: RV3B new project
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Larry West" <TAILSKIDWEST@peoplepc.com>
>
> Hi Fred,
> My Rv-3 has almost 900 hours on it with a hot rodded O-320-B2 and a
Pacesetter wood prop. I did not build this machine, but just completed
going clear through it to change the stuff I didn't like. On the battery, I
got rid of the "boat anchor" RG-25 aircraft battery and installed an Odessey
PC-680. The original battery was located just ahead of the stick and I
didn't like having it in the way getting in and out of the airplane.
Additionally, the electric fuel pump was ahead of the battery. A friend of
mine's RV-3 sprung a fuel leak and he had fuel about a 1/2 deep on the
cockpit floor by the time he landed ...... another good reason not to put
the battery up front! My battery is now located just behind the seat in the
baggage compartment. The light weight of the PC-680 battery only moved the
cg aft 1/2 inch. The big improvement is now there is much more room up
front. With the -3 rigged and trimmed out, I can now move my feet off the
rudder pedals and even stretch m!
> y legs out!
>
> On the exhaust, I'm running the Vetterman 4 pipe "zoomies". They are well
built, and sound great. The best thing is the way they get the heat out of
the engine compartment. After flying and taxiing back to the hangar, by the
time I shut down and get out and walk around, you can touch the exhaust
pipes and not get burnt. My CHT runs cool and the engine seems happy. You
can also take the clamps loose at the aft end and rotate them down about 2
to 3 inches when working on the carb or behind the engine. They only
required a small "blister" at the aft bottom edge of the lower cowl for
clearance. Be sure to put the insulation blanket in the lower cowl to
prevent blistering of the fiberglass/paint. Contact me off list if you
would like pix of both the exhaust and/or battery installation. As with all
airplanes ..... the lighter the better! Cheers, Larry
>
>
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