Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:40 AM - Re: exhaust,battery,cabin heat (rob ray)
2. 07:42 AM - Re: exhaust,battery,cabin heat (rob ray)
3. 08:34 AM - exhaust (Fred Bauer Jr)
4. 08:35 AM - exhaust,battery,cabin heat (Fred Bauer Jr)
5. 12:05 PM - Re: exhaust,battery,cabin heat (rob ray)
6. 03:08 PM - leading edge skin (Leesafur@aol.com)
7. 09:42 PM - Re: leading edge skin (Jim Oke)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: exhaust,battery,cabin heat |
--> RV3-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
Hi Fred,
Lotsa questions so here goes...first the carb air intake was designed by me, a simple tunnel ram with a flapper valve to close it off and a 2" duct on top of it with a K&N filter attached to the duct. I normally close the flapper base-to-final and during ground ops. After 1100 hours it works fine, but I am considering a new design. I use a single heat muff but found while living in SD (I now live in FL) that it wasn't enough. A CO RV4 guy actually makes a nice dual muff but is hard to find. Try www.vansairforce.net and see if someone makes one on the RV yeller pages. One thing I did was to wrap a bedspring inside the muff as a heatsink and use a 1" scat inlet versus a 2" inlet. I think the 2" cooled the air in the muff too much and reduced the heat effectiveness.
I bought my Odyessy 680C battery from a battery vendor on the internet for $65
but Van now sells them for $69. It works great and I mounted it on my firewall
to move CG forward and reduce weight from the original battery. Good Luck...
Rob Ray
Fred Bauer Jr <fredbauerjr@cox.net> wrote:
--> RV3-List message posted by: "Fred Bauer Jr"
Larry W
FYI,
I notice from your pictures that you have the original style carb air inlet built
into your lower cowl. It is the same inlet that our old RV4 had, the one that
does not have an air cleaner. We have the lower cowl [new style] that will
accept the air cleaner that Van's appears to favor, I saw this same inlet design
on a new RV9.
I have been thinking about installing a flat piece of stainless steel sheet with
sound insulation between it and the ramp floor where the exhaust exits the engine
compartment, much the same as the Piper Twin Comanche.
I feel that aluminum does not like the corrosive exhaust gases and heat [it gets
brittle] that is in that area.
Also, it should quiet the noise from the exhaust, the Swearingen had such a piece
installed in the exhaust exit ramp and I felt that it lowered the exhaust noise
to more of a lower octave rumble.
The Swearingen also had the individual exhaust pipes so I am leaning in that direction,
Ed Swearingen knows engine compartments better than anyone.
Do you get enough heat from the single cabin heat muff?
We have 2 cabin heat muffs on the T-18 and we purchased 2 cabin heat boxes and
expect to install 2 heat muffs on the RV3. The reason for the 2 heat muffs is
that we purchased 2 canopy frames and will be building 2 separate canopies, one
as a normal swingover bubble and the other as an open cockpit. Using the same
piano hinge swingover attachment as the bubble.
This might be fun, we don't know for sure but we feel that we won't want to cruise
around at top speed with an open cockpit but during the summer or in warm
climates we should be able to get the "wind in the face" feel that I enjoyed with
the Baby Great Lakes biplane and that others enjoy with similar biplanes.
I notice that the Odyssey battery comes in several versions, is the one you have
been using working well or should we purchase the higher Amp one that they also
offer?
Regards,
Fred
====================================
---------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: exhaust,battery,cabin heat |
--> RV3-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
Fred, about my exhaust, I used a Vetterman 4 pipe system that has had absolutely
no problems in 1100 hours, highly recommended....your Comanche sheet metal inside
the cowl idea sounds cool, could you send me some specs on it?
RR
Fred Bauer Jr <fredbauerjr@cox.net> wrote:
--> RV3-List message posted by: "Fred Bauer Jr"
Larry W
FYI,
I notice from your pictures that you have the original style carb air inlet built
into your lower cowl. It is the same inlet that our old RV4 had, the one that
does not have an air cleaner. We have the lower cowl [new style] that will
accept the air cleaner that Van's appears to favor, I saw this same inlet design
on a new RV9.
I have been thinking about installing a flat piece of stainless steel sheet with
sound insulation between it and the ramp floor where the exhaust exits the engine
compartment, much the same as the Piper Twin Comanche.
I feel that aluminum does not like the corrosive exhaust gases and heat [it gets
brittle] that is in that area.
Also, it should quiet the noise from the exhaust, the Swearingen had such a piece
installed in the exhaust exit ramp and I felt that it lowered the exhaust noise
to more of a lower octave rumble.
The Swearingen also had the individual exhaust pipes so I am leaning in that direction,
Ed Swearingen knows engine compartments better than anyone.
Do you get enough heat from the single cabin heat muff?
We have 2 cabin heat muffs on the T-18 and we purchased 2 cabin heat boxes and
expect to install 2 heat muffs on the RV3. The reason for the 2 heat muffs is
that we purchased 2 canopy frames and will be building 2 separate canopies, one
as a normal swingover bubble and the other as an open cockpit. Using the same
piano hinge swingover attachment as the bubble.
This might be fun, we don't know for sure but we feel that we won't want to cruise
around at top speed with an open cockpit but during the summer or in warm
climates we should be able to get the "wind in the face" feel that I enjoyed with
the Baby Great Lakes biplane and that others enjoy with similar biplanes.
I notice that the Odyssey battery comes in several versions, is the one you have
been using working well or should we purchase the higher Amp one that they also
offer?
Regards,
Fred
====================================
---------------------------------
Message 3
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--> RV3-List message posted by: "Fred Bauer Jr" <fredbauerjr@cox.net>
Thanks Rob,
We will be ordering the 4 pipe Vetterman.
Will send pictures and particulars when we get the stainless steel ramp in
place.
Fred
----- Original Message -----
From: "rob ray" <smokyray@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: exhaust,battery,cabin heat
> --> RV3-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
>
> Fred, about my exhaust, I used a Vetterman 4 pipe system that has had
absolutely no problems in 1100 hours, highly recommended....your Comanche
sheet metal inside the cowl idea sounds cool, could you send me some specs
on it?
>
> RR
>
> Fred Bauer Jr <fredbauerjr@cox.net> wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Fred Bauer Jr"
>
> Larry W
> FYI,
> I notice from your pictures that you have the original style carb air
inlet built into your lower cowl. It is the same inlet that our old RV4 had,
the one that does not have an air cleaner. We have the lower cowl [new
style] that will accept the air cleaner that Van's appears to favor, I saw
this same inlet design on a new RV9.
>
> I have been thinking about installing a flat piece of stainless steel
sheet with sound insulation between it and the ramp floor where the exhaust
exits the engine compartment, much the same as the Piper Twin Comanche.
> I feel that aluminum does not like the corrosive exhaust gases and heat
[it gets brittle] that is in that area.
> Also, it should quiet the noise from the exhaust, the Swearingen had such
a piece installed in the exhaust exit ramp and I felt that it lowered the
exhaust noise to more of a lower octave rumble.
> The Swearingen also had the individual exhaust pipes so I am leaning in
that direction, Ed Swearingen knows engine compartments better than anyone.
>
> Do you get enough heat from the single cabin heat muff?
> We have 2 cabin heat muffs on the T-18 and we purchased 2 cabin heat boxes
and expect to install 2 heat muffs on the RV3. The reason for the 2 heat
muffs is that we purchased 2 canopy frames and will be building 2 separate
canopies, one as a normal swingover bubble and the other as an open cockpit.
Using the same piano hinge swingover attachment as the bubble.
> This might be fun, we don't know for sure but we feel that we won't want
to cruise around at top speed with an open cockpit but during the summer or
in warm climates we should be able to get the "wind in the face" feel that I
enjoyed with the Baby Great Lakes biplane and that others enjoy with similar
biplanes.
>
> I notice that the Odyssey battery comes in several versions, is the one
you have been using working well or should we purchase the higher Amp one
that they also offer?
> Regards,
> Fred
>
>
> ====================================
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | exhaust,battery,cabin heat |
--> RV3-List message posted by: "Fred Bauer Jr" <fredbauerjr@cox.net>
Thanks Rob,
We are collecting all of this good input and will filter through it when we
get to those building areas. It will be a little while until we can share
with everyone how our ideas work but we will share them with all.
Fred
----- Original Message -----
From: "rob ray" <smokyray@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV3-List: exhaust,battery,cabin heat
> --> RV3-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
>
> Hi Fred,
>
> Lotsa questions so here goes...first the carb air intake was designed by
me, a simple tunnel ram with a flapper valve to close it off and a 2" duct
on top of it with a K&N filter attached to the duct. I normally close the
flapper base-to-final and during ground ops. After 1100 hours it works
fine, but I am considering a new design. I use a single heat muff but found
while living in SD (I now live in FL) that it wasn't enough. A CO RV4 guy
actually makes a nice dual muff but is hard to find. Try
www.vansairforce.net and see if someone makes one on the RV yeller pages.
One thing I did was to wrap a bedspring inside the muff as a heatsink and
use a 1" scat inlet versus a 2" inlet. I think the 2" cooled the air in the
muff too much and reduced the heat effectiveness.
> I bought my Odyessy 680C battery from a battery vendor on the internet
for $65 but Van now sells them for $69. It works great and I mounted it on
my firewall to move CG forward and reduce weight from the original battery.
Good Luck...
>
> Rob Ray
>
> Fred Bauer Jr <fredbauerjr@cox.net> wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Fred Bauer Jr"
>
> Larry W
> FYI,
> I notice from your pictures that you have the original style carb air
inlet built into your lower cowl. It is the same inlet that our old RV4 had,
the one that does not have an air cleaner. We have the lower cowl [new
style] that will accept the air cleaner that Van's appears to favor, I saw
this same inlet design on a new RV9.
>
> I have been thinking about installing a flat piece of stainless steel
sheet with sound insulation between it and the ramp floor where the exhaust
exits the engine compartment, much the same as the Piper Twin Comanche.
> I feel that aluminum does not like the corrosive exhaust gases and heat
[it gets brittle] that is in that area.
> Also, it should quiet the noise from the exhaust, the Swearingen had such
a piece installed in the exhaust exit ramp and I felt that it lowered the
exhaust noise to more of a lower octave rumble.
> The Swearingen also had the individual exhaust pipes so I am leaning in
that direction, Ed Swearingen knows engine compartments better than anyone.
>
> Do you get enough heat from the single cabin heat muff?
> We have 2 cabin heat muffs on the T-18 and we purchased 2 cabin heat boxes
and expect to install 2 heat muffs on the RV3. The reason for the 2 heat
muffs is that we purchased 2 canopy frames and will be building 2 separate
canopies, one as a normal swingover bubble and the other as an open cockpit.
Using the same piano hinge swingover attachment as the bubble.
> This might be fun, we don't know for sure but we feel that we won't want
to cruise around at top speed with an open cockpit but during the summer or
in warm climates we should be able to get the "wind in the face" feel that I
enjoyed with the Baby Great Lakes biplane and that others enjoy with similar
biplanes.
>
> I notice that the Odyssey battery comes in several versions, is the one
you have been using working well or should we purchase the higher Amp one
that they also offer?
> Regards,
> Fred
>
>
> ====================================
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: exhaust,battery,cabin heat |
--> RV3-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
Fred;
One of my friends just informed me that he installed some very thin stainless steel
sheet to his RV8 belly skin under/above the exhaust pipes. He attached it
with structural epoxy sans rivets with good results. On mine, I reverse-engineered
your idea by installing a floorboard in the cockpit 2" above the belly skin
with R8 fiberglass insulation inbetween. After discussing this issue with
my RV Guru friend Arvil Porter, "next time" I would build my forward fuselage
out of .040 all the way from the back seat (RV4) to the firewall and continue
the firewall SS sheet underneath the belly back 8" as a doubler and stregthen
the forward fuselage even more.
Again this is 20/20 hindsight...
Rob Ray
Fred Bauer Jr <fredbauerjr@cox.net> wrote:
--> RV3-List message posted by: "Fred Bauer Jr"
Thanks Rob,
We are collecting all of this good input and will filter through it when we
get to those building areas. It will be a little while until we can share
with everyone how our ideas work but we will share them with all.
Fred
----- Original Message -----
From: "rob ray"
Subject: Re: RV3-List: exhaust,battery,cabin heat
> --> RV3-List message posted by: rob ray
>
> Hi Fred,
>
> Lotsa questions so here goes...first the carb air intake was designed by
me, a simple tunnel ram with a flapper valve to close it off and a 2" duct
on top of it with a K&N filter attached to the duct. I normally close the
flapper base-to-final and during ground ops. After 1100 hours it works
fine, but I am considering a new design. I use a single heat muff but found
while living in SD (I now live in FL) that it wasn't enough. A CO RV4 guy
actually makes a nice dual muff but is hard to find. Try
www.vansairforce.net and see if someone makes one on the RV yeller pages.
One thing I did was to wrap a bedspring inside the muff as a heatsink and
use a 1" scat inlet versus a 2" inlet. I think the 2" cooled the air in the
muff too much and reduced the heat effectiveness.
> I bought my Odyessy 680C battery from a battery vendor on the internet
for $65 but Van now sells them for $69. It works great and I mounted it on
my firewall to move CG forward and reduce weight from the original battery.
Good Luck...
>
> Rob Ray
>
> Fred Bauer Jr wrote:
> --> RV3-List message posted by: "Fred Bauer Jr"
>
> Larry W
> FYI,
> I notice from your pictures that you have the original style carb air
inlet built into your lower cowl. It is the same inlet that our old RV4 had,
the one that does not have an air cleaner. We have the lower cowl [new
style] that will accept the air cleaner that Van's appears to favor, I saw
this same inlet design on a new RV9.
>
> I have been thinking about installing a flat piece of stainless steel
sheet with sound insulation between it and the ramp floor where the exhaust
exits the engine compartment, much the same as the Piper Twin Comanche.
> I feel that aluminum does not like the corrosive exhaust gases and heat
[it gets brittle] that is in that area.
> Also, it should quiet the noise from the exhaust, the Swearingen had such
a piece installed in the exhaust exit ramp and I felt that it lowered the
exhaust noise to more of a lower octave rumble.
> The Swearingen also had the individual exhaust pipes so I am leaning in
that direction, Ed Swearingen knows engine compartments better than anyone.
>
> Do you get enough heat from the single cabin heat muff?
> We have 2 cabin heat muffs on the T-18 and we purchased 2 cabin heat boxes
and expect to install 2 heat muffs on the RV3. The reason for the 2 heat
muffs is that we purchased 2 canopy frames and will be building 2 separate
canopies, one as a normal swingover bubble and the other as an open cockpit.
Using the same piano hinge swingover attachment as the bubble.
> This might be fun, we don't know for sure but we feel that we won't want
to cruise around at top speed with an open cockpit but during the summer or
in warm climates we should be able to get the "wind in the face" feel that I
enjoyed with the Baby Great Lakes biplane and that others enjoy with similar
biplanes.
>
> I notice that the Odyssey battery comes in several versions, is the one
you have been using working well or should we purchase the higher Amp one
that they also offer?
> Regards,
> Fred
>
>
> ====================================
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | leading edge skin |
--> RV3-List message posted by: Leesafur@aol.com
OK I read reread and read the plans again but it doesn't say so hear goes. Do
the leading edge skins have to be trimmed? when I position the skin on the
reference line on the top of the spar flange and wrap the skin around the ribs
it seems like I have a lot of skin. I would also entertain any ideas for
skinning the wings.
Thanks
Lee
Anoka MN
RV-3 wing
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: leading edge skin |
--> RV3-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Lee;
It has been a long time since I skinned my RV-3 wings but more recently I
have built a set of RV-6 wings. Both times, my impression was that the LE
skins as supplied by Vans were very close to the final size and required no
trimming other than draw-filing and polishing the cut edges for deburring
purposes.
IOW, I would suggest re-checking your reference line location and to also
see how the aft skins fit to the structure before doing any trimming of the
LE skins.
A call or e-mail to Vans support would be advisable too.
Jim Oke
RV-3 C-FIZM
RV-6A C-GKGA
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: <Leesafur@aol.com>
Subject: RV3-List: leading edge skin
> --> RV3-List message posted by: Leesafur@aol.com
>
> OK I read reread and read the plans again but it doesn't say so hear goes.
Do
> the leading edge skins have to be trimmed? when I position the skin on the
> reference line on the top of the spar flange and wrap the skin around the
ribs
> it seems like I have a lot of skin. I would also entertain any ideas for
> skinning the wings.
>
> Thanks
>
> Lee
> Anoka MN
> RV-3 wing
>
>
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