Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:15 AM - paint (Glenn P. Wilkinson)
2. 04:21 PM - Re: paint (FLYBOYRV4@aol.com)
3. 05:48 PM - Aileron nose skin (PGLong@aol.com)
4. 06:13 PM - Re: Aileron nose skin (HalBenjamin@aol.com)
5. 06:13 PM - Re: paint (H.Ivan Haecker)
6. 06:37 PM - Re: paint (N8292W@aol.com)
7. 06:54 PM - Re: paint (rob ray)
Message 1
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--> RV4-List message posted by: "Glenn P. Wilkinson" <gpw@accucomm.net>
Hi guys!
-Has anyone used paint stripper for fiberglass? results,problems?
-Has anyone used Randolph water-based polyurethane paint? results, problems?
Glenn Wilkinson
654RV
Milledgevile, Ga (MLJ)
Message 2
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--> RV4-List message posted by: FLYBOYRV4@aol.com
Gentlemen, While we're on the subject of removing paint , has anyone removed
the sloshing sealer from a fuel tank?What were the results and would you do
it again? (I think I know that answer). I am looking down that barrel and I
don't like what I see. I am concidering having new tanks made but don't like
the price of the tanks,installation costs, painting etc.. If anyone has
experienced this I'd like to hear from you. Thanks, Jim Mandeville RV-4 #
111
Message 3
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| Subject: | Aileron nose skin |
--> RV4-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
Just been to the school of hard knocks. After clecoing the nose skin on the
aileron, I noticed that the skin didn't lay tight against the rear skin.
Sooooooooo, I disassembled it and used the Avery roller to slightly bend the
edge down. After reassembling with clecos, the problem was worse. I repeated
the procedure and was a little more aggressive with the bending. Didn't look
real good with clecos, but I reasoned that after riveting it would lay
tightly. Guess I'll have to drill out and buy another nose skin or try and
fill the edges somehow that are lifted between the rivets. I'm sure that
rolling the edge caused the material to stretch causing the excess material
to warp between rivets. What can I do to avoid this with the new skin?
Pat Long
Bay City, Michigan
(989)684-0581
Working on an RV-4
Email: PGLong@aol.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron nose skin |
--> RV4-List message posted by: HalBenjamin@aol.com
In a message dated 12/18/2002 8:49:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
PGLong@aol.com writes:
> Just been to the school of hard knocks. After clecoing the nose skin on the
> aileron, I noticed that the skin didn't lay tight against the rear skin.
> Sooooooooo, I disassembled it and used the Avery roller to slightly bend
> the
> edge down. After reassembling with clecos, the problem was worse. I
> repeated
> the procedure and was a little more aggressive with the bending. Didn't
> look
> real good with clecos, but I reasoned that after riveting it would lay
> tightly. Guess I'll have to drill out and buy another nose skin or try and
> fill the edges somehow that are lifted between the rivets. I'm sure that
> rolling the edge caused the material to stretch causing the excess material
>
> to warp between rivets. What can I do to avoid this with the new skin?
>
> Pat Long
>
Hi Pat,
My aileron nose skins laid down well after rolling, but they fit pretty well
to begin with. Did you make sure the spar was oriented correctly? 80.5
degree flange angle on top and 83.5 degrees for the bottom flange.
(According to preview plans)
Hal Benjamin
RV-4, Fuselage
Long Island, NY
Message 5
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--> RV4-List message posted by: "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl@gvtc.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: <FLYBOYRV4@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV4-List: paint
> --> RV4-List message posted by: FLYBOYRV4@aol.com
>
> Gentlemen, While we're on the subject of removing paint , has anyone
removed
> the sloshing sealer from a fuel tank?What were the results and would you
do
> it again? (I think I know that answer). I am looking down that barrel and
I
> don't like what I see. I am concidering having new tanks made but don't
like
> the price of the tanks,installation costs, painting etc.. If anyone has
> experienced this I'd like to hear from you. Thanks, Jim Mandeville RV-4 #
> 111
>
>
Hi, Jim
I removed the sloshing compound from my tanks a couple of years ago. I found
it to be a miserable job especially as it was done in the heat of a South Tx
summer and the fumes from the solvent (MEK) prohibited working indoors with
the a/c on. In any case, it was tedious to get all of it out, but I was
determined to never find any in my gascolator again. I had found small
pieces for years, but that summer, the pieces were larger and one day I saw
a large piece floating in the bay that has the filler hole. Visions of
something that big wrapping it self around the pickup tube had me motivated
right now! The work was done by cutting access holes through the back of the
tanks in the three outboard bays and using the hole for the fuel sender for
the inboard bay. Did I mention it was a miserable job? Anyway after it was
all removed, I closed up the access holes with .040 aluminum, Proseal and
numerous blind rivets.Good luck
Ivan Haecker -4 860hrs.
Message 6
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--> RV4-List message posted by: N8292W@aol.com
DO NOT use paint stripper on fiberglass, it will eat the epoxy and ruin the
fiberglass! Trust me!
-Mike
N223RV
RV-4
10.1 hours and loving it!
Message 7
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--> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
AMEN!
Rob Ray N557RR
890+ hours,48 states, 3 countries and still loving it!
--- N8292W@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV4-List message posted by: N8292W@aol.com
>
> DO NOT use paint stripper on fiberglass, it will eat
> the epoxy and ruin the
> fiberglass! Trust me!
> -Mike
> N223RV
> RV-4
> 10.1 hours and loving it!
>
>
>
> Click on the
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