Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:10 AM - Re: FAB and cowling clearance (Pat Perry)
2. 05:17 AM - Re: FAB and cowling clearance (Pat Perry)
3. 05:25 AM - Re: FAB and cowling clearance (PGLong@aol.com)
4. 06:08 AM - Re: FAB and cowling clearance (Pat Perry)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: FAB and cowling clearance |
--> RV4-List message posted by: "Pat Perry" <pperryrv@hotmail.com>
Pat,
There is an attachment available from Van's that fits over the hinged door.
THe attachment adapts a 2" scat tube and allows some free air into the FAB
when the door is open.
The addapter is just a 2" tube on a square flange that is on .25"
stand-offs. The hot air coming in from the scat tube is mixed with the warm
free air right at the FAB door. The standoffs also allow air to flow
through the muff or tube when the carb heat is not on preventing things from
getting too hot.
I have a cross over exhaust and used a 3" piece of scat tube to connect a
mini muff on the front cross-over pipe to the FAB adapter to provide carb
heat/alternate air. This is common set-up with this exhaust and FAB
combination.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: PGLong@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv4-list@matronics.com
>To: rv4-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV4-List: FAB and cowling clearance
>Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 20:53:03 EST
>
>--> RV4-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
>
>Hi Mike
>
>Thanks for your prompt response. I'm not sure I understand about the carb
>heat source. I have a heat muff for cabin heat and it also has a port that
>is
>open and dumps into the lower cowling area plenum. Are you saying that this
>port has to be piped over to the FAB hinged door? My FAB didn't come with
>any
>special fitting for admitting warm air other that the "U" shaped hinged
>door
>that opens into the lower plenum and admits air that has been heated by the
>engine. Thanks again!
>
>Pat Long
>PGLong@aol.com
>Working on an RV-4
>Bay City, Michigan
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: FAB and cowling clearance |
--> RV4-List message posted by: "Pat Perry" <pperryrv@hotmail.com>
Pat,
I just spent some time last week clearing up a small problem with my cowl
touching the FAB. My recomendation to anyone fitting a cowl to an RV-4
would be to stick a layer of 1/4" foam on the inside of the cowl to make
sure there is clearance between the FAB and the cowl. Once everthing is fit
together the foam could be removed.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: PGLong@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv4-list@matronics.com
>To: rv4-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV4-List: FAB and cowling clearance
>Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 19:17:13 EST
>
>--> RV4-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
>
>On my RV 4 with an older cowling, the clearance to the filtered air box is
>quite close to the lower cowling. How much space should there be between
>the
>air box and the cowling to prevent these components from touching? Thinking
>of 1/4" to 3/8". If more is needed, I'll have to shave the rear corners off
>the air box and reglass. Anyone else had these problems? Also, does the air
>box just use air in the lower cowl for a source of heated air?
>
>Pat Long
>PGLong@aol.com
>Working on an RV-4
>Bay City, Michigan
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: FAB and cowling clearance |
--> RV4-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
Thanks Pat Perry
I think I understand the carb heat source better now. I see the part your
talking of in Van's catalog. On my heat muff for cabin heat, there is an
extra outlet that keeps things from being overheated when your not using
cabin heat and just dumps the hot air into the lower plentum. can this be
ducted with scat tube to the FAB or do I need another muff for this source of
hot air? Thanks again.
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
Working on an RV-4
Bay City, Michigan
Do Not Archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: FAB and cowling clearance |
--> RV4-List message posted by: "Pat Perry" <pperryrv@hotmail.com>
That depends on if you can set-up the scat tube to reach the adapter and if
the heat source is hot enough for your carb heat.
In my aplication it was easier to just tap the cross pipe.
You should make sure your source works all the time regaurdless of if you
have the cabin heat on at the same time the carb heat is on.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: PGLong@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv4-list@matronics.com
>To: rv4-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV4-List: FAB and cowling clearance
>Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 08:25:10 EST
>
>--> RV4-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
>
>Thanks Pat Perry
>
>I think I understand the carb heat source better now. I see the part your
>talking of in Van's catalog. On my heat muff for cabin heat, there is an
>extra outlet that keeps things from being overheated when your not using
>cabin heat and just dumps the hot air into the lower plentum. can this be
>ducted with scat tube to the FAB or do I need another muff for this source
>of
>hot air? Thanks again.
>
>Pat Long
>PGLong@aol.com
>Working on an RV-4
>Bay City, Michigan
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
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