---------------------------------------------------------- RV4-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 12/04/04: 2 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 09:44 AM - Re: RV-4 back seat heat (rob ray) 2. 09:51 PM - Re: RV-4 back seat heat (Scott VanArtsdalen) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 09:44:44 AM PST US DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=s1024; d=yahoo.com; b=HiAtLWwCUM/UZjr4xnEfkNHNwKbck2CAYqRCVshygXPTfyahPq26mAxkZUnYMtxhQ3pAaA3f0a3FKa8c3zpJPnkso4s3as7/7QeADmDWyqhVKPWEFLl6PkFi5kJFQjG0bltvh1fEnPPRSAhnfE6mTPagWDjS/YcIi6BxSkGGE/o= ; From: rob ray Subject: RE: RV4-List: RV-4 back seat heat --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray Warren, When I finished my RV4 in 97', I was living in N. VA and had a single small heat muff through a Van's heat box on the firewall. Flying in the winter, it cooked my right foot, but the cockpit stayed cold and my girlfriend backseater froze her butt riding back there. (not popular) So, to try to keep her hot (so to speak) I made a flange on the exit tube under the right rudder pedal with a 1" scat tube exiting under the floor and back alongside the stick well to the RCP into a airline style eyeball vent. I route all my heat behind me now. The firewall, even with insulation stays warm in the winter, so it was a good call. I also sealed every air leak in the cockpit and canopy frame I could find which really helped the problem. Now my backseater has a warm butt...(sts) If I had it to do over again, I would drill small holes into my passenger footwells and route Scat behind them with a valve up front to open and close off the heat to the "foot warmer" heat provided. Now that would be "the goo" Rob Ray "Moore, Warren" wrote: --> RV4-List message posted by: "Moore, Warren" I did this after the wings were attached to run a 1 3/4 inch scat tube from the bottom of the right wing for front and back fresh air, not for heat. (live in Southern California) I used a 90 deg attachment to my electric drill, and a 1 3/4 inch metal hole saw I bought at Sears. Then used my Dremel tool to polish it out. Crude but worked well. Just be hyper careful not to hit any of the Spar web spredders! -----Original Message----- From: Richard Stoffel [mailto:rickstoffel@sbcglobal.net] Subject: RV4-List: RV-4 back seat heat --> RV4-List message posted by: Richard Stoffel Hello, I see Van's suggested routing for a 2" scat tube for back seat heat. A few questions: (1) Anyone have any experience on how this works (is it worth it?) (2) How do you cut the holes through the F-404 webs and the spar webs that are sandwiched in between the two F-404 webs? The only thing I can think of is an adjustable fly-cutter, but I was wondering if you'd have enough access (clearance) with all of the other pieces in place. Right now I have the forward fuselage pieces (frame) riveted together without the skins on yet, but I can't install the wings due to limited space. So i t looks to me like you have to wait until the end to do this? Any suggestions? Thanks --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 09:51:44 PM PST US From: Scott VanArtsdalen Subject: Re: RV4-List: RV-4 back seat heat --> RV4-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen Hey Smoky, how did you get the scat past the spar? I have a wife with the same gripe. rob ray wrote: >--> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray > >Warren, > > When I finished my RV4 in 97', I was living in N. VA and had a single small heat muff through a Van's heat box on the firewall. Flying in the winter, it cooked my right foot, but the cockpit stayed cold and my girlfriend backseater froze her butt riding back there. (not popular) So, to try to keep her hot (so to speak) I made a flange on the exit tube under the right rudder pedal with a 1" scat tube exiting under the floor and back alongside the stick well to the RCP into a airline style eyeball vent. I route all my heat behind me now. The firewall, even with insulation stays warm in the winter, so it was a good call. I also sealed every air leak in the cockpit and canopy frame I could find which really helped the problem. Now my backseater has a warm butt...(sts) > >If I had it to do over again, I would drill small holes into my passenger footwells and route Scat behind them with a valve up front to open and close off the heat to the "foot warmer" heat provided. >Now that would be "the goo" > >Rob Ray > >"Moore, Warren" wrote: >--> RV4-List message posted by: "Moore, Warren" > >I did this after the wings were attached to run a 1 3/4 inch scat tube from >the bottom of the right wing for front and back fresh air, not for heat. >(live in Southern California) I used a 90 deg attachment to my electric >drill, and a 1 3/4 inch metal hole saw I bought at Sears. Then used my >Dremel tool to polish it out. Crude but worked well. Just be hyper careful >not to hit any of the Spar web spredders! > >-----Original Message----- >From: Richard Stoffel [mailto:rickstoffel@sbcglobal.net] >To: rv4-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV4-List: RV-4 back seat heat > > >--> RV4-List message posted by: Richard Stoffel > >Hello, > >I see Van's suggested routing for a 2" scat tube for back seat heat. A few >questions: (1) Anyone have any experience on how this works (is it worth >it?) (2) How do you cut the holes through the F-404 webs and the spar webs >that are sandwiched in between the two F-404 webs? The only thing I can >think of is an adjustable fly-cutter, but I was wondering if you'd have >enough access (clearance) with all of the other pieces in place. Right now >I have the forward fuselage pieces (frame) riveted together without the >skins on yet, but I can't install the wings due to limited space. So i t >looks to me like you have to wait until the end to do this? > >Any suggestions? > >Thanks > > > >--------------------------------- > > > > -- Scott VanArtsdalen Van Arts Consulting Services 3848 McHenry Ave Suite #155-184 Modesto, CA 95356 209-986-4647 Ps 34:4,6