Today's Message Index:
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     1. 06:24 AM - Re: Brake Lines >> " I wish I built it that way to start with"  (rob ray)
     2. 03:08 PM - Canopy Seal (PGLong@aol.com)
     3. 07:52 PM - Re: Brake Lines (H.Ivan Haecker)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Brake Lines >> " I wish I built it that way to start with" | 
      
      
      --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
      
      Steve,
      
      Unfortunately, I have a fixed rudder tab set for my cruise speed of 165 knots/180
      mph indicated. Faster or slower requires some of that "pilot stuff" with your
      feet which I like anyway. However, I saw an RV6 at a fly-in with a movable
      tab rigged with a cable similar to the elevator trim on the 4.  You could design
      one easily, I would put it on the lower portion of the rudder.  Cheers!
      
      RR
      
      Steve Sampson <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> wrote:
      --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" 
      
      Rob - how have you implemented a rudder trim. As a fixed or adjustable tab. 
      Also, anyone know if VANS have ever implemented an offset rudder on the -4 
      like on the _7 and -9?
      
      Rear seat heat. have you fixed the problem. I was thinking of solving it 
      with an electric seat heater but have no idea of the current draw.
      
      thanks, Steve.
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "rob ray" 
      Subject: RE: RV4-List: Brake Lines
      
      
      > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray 
      >
      > MIke,
      > We followed the plans on my RV4 and utilized teflon plastic brake line 
      > throughout my RV4 and like magic at 1000 hours (5 years) they began to 
      > leak. I removed all of the teflon plastic and replaced with parker teflon 
      > lined braided stanless steel line throughout. I bought it from a dealer 
      > who makes industrial line so the entire change cost $74. I did have to go 
      > to their steel fittings everywhere which was no big deal. The end result 
      > is painless leak free brake lines that can handle abuse from chafing, heat 
      > and age.
      > This added one more thing to my RV4 " I wish I built it that way to start 
      > with" list. That list now is long and has these items as well:
      >
      >>Install Odessey battery on firewall and make forward baggage out of 
      >>battery box.
      >>Install shelf of .016 between rear upper fuselage longerons behind rear 
      >>baggage door for light bulky baggage.
      >>Install RV6 fuel tanks during construction.
      >>Dish firewall for C/S prop
      >>Paint a/c before first flight (you'll procrastinate forever once it flies)
      >>Electronic Ignition, Landoll balancer, Catto or Hertzler prop. ( I would 
      >>go with an MT or Whirlwind C/S now)
      >>.020 tail feathers.
      >>Rudder Trim
      >>Rear seat heat
      >>Good ventilation from the gitgo.
      >>Keep it light (I did) 935#
      >
      > You mileage may vary...good luck!
      >
      > Rob Ray
      >>
      > 
      
      
                      
      ---------------------------------
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 2
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  | 
      
      
      
      --> RV4-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
      
      I purchased some "V" strip to use as a weather seal on my RV-4 tip up  
      canopy. (ACS #05-01900) I know that on the front I need to keep air out  therefore
      
      the incoming air would open the V and do its sealing job if I point  the seal 
      inward . However, I'm not sure if I need to do the same on the  rest of the 
      canopy. Which way should I point the seal? Is the  balance of the air incoming
      or 
      is it going out?  I think  the balance of the air would be outgoing, 
      especially if I had the  heat on. That should pressurize the interior so I'm assuming
      
      that the  sides and rear of the canopy should have the "V" pointing out. What 
      have others  done? Thanks in advance.  
      
      Pat  Long
      PGLong@aol.com
      N120PL
      RV4
      Bay City,  Michigan
      3CM
      
      
      
      
      
      
Message 3
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  | 
      
      
              autolearn=no version=3.0.2
      
      --> RV4-List message posted by: "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl@gvtc.com>
      
      I have used the plastic brake lines for 1200 hrs. over a 13 year period. I
      replaced them at 750 hrs. because they seemed hardened and it was so
      inexpensive. I have never had a problem with failure from overheating
      although I have never had to make a panic stop. For me the biggest problem
      has been keeping them from leaking at the joint on the wheel cylinders. They
      occasionally (too often)begin to weep and if not tightened will leak away
      all the fluid on that side resulting in no brakes just when you are in a
      hurry to leave on a trip (or so it seems). Frankly, I'm tired of them and am
      looking to replace them with something else the next time I get let down.
      So, yes they work, but be vigilant if you use them.
      
      Ivan Haecker       -4    1206hrs.  S. Cen. TX
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
      Subject: RV4-List: Brake Lines
      
      
      > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson"
      <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
      >
      > Is everyone using the 44-NSR (plastic) brake lines per plans? Just
      puzzling 'cos this is done in aluminium in later VANS designs. Is there a
      reason why plastic on the -4?
      >
      > Steve
      > RV4 Kit No.4478
      > RV-9A G-IINI (sold)
      > PA18-150 G-BVMI
      >
      
      
      
      
      
      
 
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