RV4-List Digest Archive

Sat 01/28/06


Total Messages Posted: 5



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:59 AM - Re: Re: Ram Air! (Steve Sampson)
     2. 08:46 AM - Re: Re: Ram Air! (Steve Mullins)
     3. 01:23 PM - [ Michael Kosta ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
     4. 02:05 PM - Ruddder Skin (J H)
     5. 05:22 PM - Re: Ruddder Skin (Charlie England)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:59:32 AM PST US
    From: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
    Subject: Re: Ram Air!
    --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> Rob - thanks for that. Yes I am moving increasingly to the standard approach. I cant quite understand why VANS moved away from your ram air design. Sounds good. I am just left frustrated that it will be hard to balance the fuel to each cyl. Thanks, Steve. ----- Original Message ----- From: "rob ray" <smokyray@yahoo.com> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 1:54 PM Subject: RV4-List: Re: Ram Air! > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com> > > Steve, > > I went with a carb on my RV4 for several reasons. Many moons ago I flew > Scouts and Super Cubs up in Alaska. Reliability and simplicity was an > issue and still is with me. Every fuel injected airplane on the ramp was > hard to prop start in the backcountry, expensive to fix when it broke > (injectors, throttle body) and had problems with auto gas. The Carbureted > Lycoming is alot less suseptible to carb ice by design than Continentals, > the carb air is routed through the sump full of hot oil. In all my hours > over the tundra I rarely used carb heat except during visible moisture or > when I saw indications of ice. In 1500 hours of RV4 operations, I have > used carb neat twice, both times above 10,000 feet in Idaho flying through > visible moisture below 45 degrees F. Even then, the engine was running > fine, just a slight drop in RPM. Since the K&N filter has a metal chrome > housing and sits 2" below the very warm sump (on top of the ram air > intake), it is surrounded by warm air inside the > cowling. I use it as an alternate air source along with filtering during > ground operations. It cleared up my carb ice symptoms both times. For > normal operations I take off with the flapper closed and open it when > safely airborne, giving a nice "shot" of power on climbout. > For the Carb air intake box I enlisted the help of my master craftsman > friend Arvil Porter who constructed the airbox per my drawings. I simply > read page 11-3 in the RV4 builders manual and from that drew up my design. > It is a square-shaped tunnel with a flange welded on top to mate to the > carb on the aft end and reaches within 1" of the cowl intake in front. > Centered on top is a welded 2" scat duct where the K&N motorcycle filter > attaches. In front it has a cockpit selectable trap door for closing > during ground operations or in the rare case of carb ice. When closed a 1" > drop in MP is noted at SL, 2" at 8500'. Van actually used to sell a very > close match to my design but since everyone started flying "newer" RV's, > the ram air intake has gone the route of the dodo bird. You might contact > Van's and see if they still have one gathering dust on a shelf somewhere. > For me and my "KISS" principle basics, the ram air, original cowling > and carb are a simple, effective and very reliable setup. Good Luck.. > > Rob Ray > > Steve Sampson <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" > > Rob - I am totally unfamiliar with the set up you have.Never heard of K&N > but I have never understood why we need to filter the air once airborne. > > My plan was to go with the Silver Hawk injector, mostly because that is > what > everyone offered if FI. Reason for going FI was here in the UK carb ice is > frequent and I presume the injected engine is smoother and more frugal on > fuel. However the things stacking up the other way are: > - I really prefer the look of the O-320 cowl > - the air inlet is presumably matched to the engine > - VANS can supply the brackets for the carb but not FI and the O-320 FAB > will fit > - there are not so many aircraft to copy how things are done near me. I > have > built a carb -9A before and feel more confident. > - there was also an interesting old post at Vans Airforce "Carb vs Fuel > Injection" by Stein Bruch which go me thinking that perhaps the money is > better in my pocket. > > Feel free to tell me I am making a mistake if you feel strongly. > > If I go back to a carb I guess I have to understand if I want a Marvel or > someting else. Is there any other carb I should consider? If so what does > it > offer? > > Cheers, Steve. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "rob ray" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 1:38 PM > Subject: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/24/06 > > >> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray >> >> Steve, I didn't use the FAB on my RV4 as I built my own tunnel ram >> equipped with Ram air for normal flight and a K&N filter by-pass for >> ground operations. Hasn't let me down in 10 years. This allowed me to run >> the early stock cowl and scoop with a carb. My cowl was from pre-FAB days >> when the plans called for a setup similar to mine. In 95' the FAB came >> out >> and they enlarged the scoop to handle it, although the carb intake >> location isn't the same on all 320 sumps and the FAB won't work on every >> engine without some serious cutting. Van's sells the larger scoop you can >> attach to the cowl, I bought one and it is still sitting in my attic, >> never used. Which injector throttle body are you going with? >> >> I too like the looks of the 320 cowl and scoop and haven't changed it >> one bit... >> >> RR >> > > > --------------------------------- > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > > This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System > on behalf of the London Business School community. > For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email > ______________________________________________________________________ > > > -- > 26/01/2006 > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 08:46:48 AM PST US
    From: "Steve Mullins" <smullins@drury.edu>
    Subject: Re: Ram Air!
    --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve Mullins" <smullins@drury.edu> Hey Rob, Do you have any drawings or photos of your ram air/KN setup that you would share?? Steven D. Mullins Associate Professor of Economics Co-director 06-07 Convocation Series: http://www.drury.edu/post911 The Breech School of Business Administration Drury University 417.889.5609 (Home) 417.873.7299 (Office) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv4-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv4-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Sampson Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2006 8:38 AM Subject: Re: RV4-List: Re: Ram Air! --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" --> <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> Rob - thanks for that. Yes I am moving increasingly to the standard approach. I cant quite understand why VANS moved away from your ram air design. Sounds good. I am just left frustrated that it will be hard to balance the fuel to each cyl. Thanks, Steve. ----- Original Message ----- From: "rob ray" <smokyray@yahoo.com> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 1:54 PM Subject: RV4-List: Re: Ram Air! > --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com> > > Steve, > > I went with a carb on my RV4 for several reasons. Many moons ago I flew > Scouts and Super Cubs up in Alaska. Reliability and simplicity was an > issue and still is with me. Every fuel injected airplane on the ramp was > hard to prop start in the backcountry, expensive to fix when it broke > (injectors, throttle body) and had problems with auto gas. The Carbureted > Lycoming is alot less suseptible to carb ice by design than Continentals, > the carb air is routed through the sump full of hot oil. In all my hours > over the tundra I rarely used carb heat except during visible moisture or > when I saw indications of ice. In 1500 hours of RV4 operations, I have > used carb neat twice, both times above 10,000 feet in Idaho flying through > visible moisture below 45 degrees F. Even then, the engine was running > fine, just a slight drop in RPM. Since the K&N filter has a metal chrome > housing and sits 2" below the very warm sump (on top of the ram air > intake), it is surrounded by warm air inside the > cowling. I use it as an alternate air source along with filtering during > ground operations. It cleared up my carb ice symptoms both times. For > normal operations I take off with the flapper closed and open it when > safely airborne, giving a nice "shot" of power on climbout. > For the Carb air intake box I enlisted the help of my master craftsman > friend Arvil Porter who constructed the airbox per my drawings. I simply > read page 11-3 in the RV4 builders manual and from that drew up my design. > It is a square-shaped tunnel with a flange welded on top to mate to the > carb on the aft end and reaches within 1" of the cowl intake in front. > Centered on top is a welded 2" scat duct where the K&N motorcycle filter > attaches. In front it has a cockpit selectable trap door for closing > during ground operations or in the rare case of carb ice. When closed a 1" > drop in MP is noted at SL, 2" at 8500'. Van actually used to sell a very > close match to my design but since everyone started flying "newer" RV's, > the ram air intake has gone the route of the dodo bird. You might contact > Van's and see if they still have one gathering dust on a shelf somewhere. > For me and my "KISS" principle basics, the ram air, original cowling > and carb are a simple, effective and very reliable setup. Good Luck.. > > Rob Ray > > Steve Sampson <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu> wrote: > --> RV4-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" > > Rob - I am totally unfamiliar with the set up you have.Never heard of K&N > but I have never understood why we need to filter the air once airborne. > > My plan was to go with the Silver Hawk injector, mostly because that is > what > everyone offered if FI. Reason for going FI was here in the UK carb ice is > frequent and I presume the injected engine is smoother and more frugal on > fuel. However the things stacking up the other way are: > - I really prefer the look of the O-320 cowl > - the air inlet is presumably matched to the engine > - VANS can supply the brackets for the carb but not FI and the O-320 FAB > will fit > - there are not so many aircraft to copy how things are done near me. I > have > built a carb -9A before and feel more confident. > - there was also an interesting old post at Vans Airforce "Carb vs Fuel > Injection" by Stein Bruch which go me thinking that perhaps the money is > better in my pocket. > > Feel free to tell me I am making a mistake if you feel strongly. > > If I go back to a carb I guess I have to understand if I want a Marvel or > someting else. Is there any other carb I should consider? If so what does > it > offer? > > Cheers, Steve. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "rob ray" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 1:38 PM > Subject: RV4-List: Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/24/06 > > >> --> RV4-List message posted by: rob ray >> >> Steve, I didn't use the FAB on my RV4 as I built my own tunnel ram >> equipped with Ram air for normal flight and a K&N filter by-pass for >> ground operations. Hasn't let me down in 10 years. This allowed me to run >> the early stock cowl and scoop with a carb. My cowl was from pre-FAB days >> when the plans called for a setup similar to mine. In 95' the FAB came >> out >> and they enlarged the scoop to handle it, although the carb intake >> location isn't the same on all 320 sumps and the FAB won't work on every >> engine without some serious cutting. Van's sells the larger scoop you can >> attach to the cowl, I bought one and it is still sitting in my attic, >> never used. Which injector throttle body are you going with? >> >> I too like the looks of the 320 cowl and scoop and haven't changed it >> one bit... >> >> RR >> > > > --------------------------------- > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > > This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System > on behalf of the London Business School community. > For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email > ______________________________________________________________________ > > > -- > 26/01/2006 > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 01:23:50 PM PST US
    Subject: [ Michael Kosta ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
    From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
    --> RV4-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com> A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Michael Kosta <mikel@dimensional.com> Lists: RV-List,RV4-List,RV8-List Subject: RV-4 panel and radio console http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/mikel@dimensional.com.01.28.2006/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures@matronics.com


    Message 4


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    Time: 02:05:14 PM PST US
    From: J H <rv74jl@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Ruddder Skin
    --> RV4-List message posted by: J H <rv74jl@yahoo.com> I have a crack in the right rudder skin. Is there a way to repair this, or does the entire rudder need to be reskinned? Is it better to just build a new rudder? If reskin or build new, what is the best skin thickness to use? Thanks in advance. ---------------------------------


    Message 5


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    Time: 05:22:52 PM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Ruddder Skin
    --> RV4-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net> J H wrote: >--> RV4-List message posted by: J H <rv74jl@yahoo.com> > >I have a crack in the right rudder skin. Is there a way to repair this, or does the entire rudder need to be reskinned? Is it better to just build a new rudder? If reskin or build new, what is the best skin thickness to use? Thanks in advance. > Yours must be fairly new. :-) Stop drill it (be sure that you drill at the very end of the crack) & force some RTV caulk (the kind that doesn't stink, to avoid corrosion) into the hole to act as a damper in the future. Go fly tomorrow. Most -4's with any time at all on them have cracks, unless the RTV was put in the trailing edge when the rudder was built. Charlie




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