Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:17 AM - Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/04/06 (rob ray)
2. 01:46 PM - Re: RV-4 Instruments for sale (DAVID TRACY)
3. 02:36 PM - Re: Fw: Rust in Flap Weldment (rob ray)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV4-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 08/04/06 |
Good concern John, and we should all take a close look at the flap bar on conditional
inspections. However comma, split flaps on an RV4 won't roll it, even at
pattern speeds you have enough aileron and rudder to counteract it.
Trust me...been there, done that...
RR
RV4-List Digest Server <rv4-list@matronics.com> wrote:
*
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RV4-List Digest Archive
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Total Messages Posted Fri 08/04/06: 1
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Today's Message Index:
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1. 09:41 PM - Rust in Flap Weldment (John DeCuir)
________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
Time: 09:41:32 PM PST US
--> RV4-List message posted by: John DeCuir
This is a warning for older RV owners and builders. I am the third
owner of an RV-4, kit #21, finished about 1990. The aircraft is well
maintained, frequently inspected and flown regularly; at least since
I've owned it (3 years now). With a little over 600 hours on the
airframe and engine, she's had her share of problems seen on this list:
cracks in rudder skins, etc. Nothing major.
Thursday, returning home from work, I dropped the flaps (electric)
on final, and felt myself holding right aileron to counteract a
constant roll to the left. It was bumpy, but it felt weird. I visually
scanned both wings, ( expecting to see a gremlin tearing skin off the
wing?) and noticed that the left flap appeared less extended than the
right. I centered the stick for a moment, thinking that the aileron
position might be creating an illusion. It still looked hinky. I
concentrated on the landing, which was trickier than normal due to the
roll correction and a crosswind.
Clear of the runway, I centered the stick and eyeballed the flap
position again. They looked normal now! I must be going nuts, I
thought.
Flaps up, taxi to hanger, scratch my head. Something told me to look
again, so I lowered the flaps, measured position each side, scratched
some more. I pulled up on the left flap with my hand, and it moved! A
lot! The more pressure applied, the farther it moved, as much as an
inch at the trailing edge.
I yanked out the seat and studied the weldment. It looked fine,
paint intact, clean, no obstructions stuck under it, bushings and
rod-ends secure. I pulled up on the arm connected to the left flap, and
it just had too much give! Then I noticed the slightest wrinkle in the
paint on the main tube, about 4" inboard from the left arm. I felt
underneath the tube near the wrinkle, and felt something sharp. Time to
remove the shirt & tie and break out some tools.
After removing the weldment I found the problem. The bottom of the
tube was perforated with rust, starting inside and working out until
there was nothing left but paint! The torque under load was twisting
the weakest area, and starting to tear and crack. After removing the
teflon ends, I tapped out a handful of flakes!
I'm guessing 17 years of condensation sneaking in the vent holes,
no drain hole in the tube and, apparently, no corrosion protection
applied at construction eventually took it's toll on that thin steel.
Now I find myself imagining all the possible outcomes to a more sudden,
timely failure ( Snap-roll at flare?).
Something to add to that annual condition checklist, fellas.
john
---------------------------------
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Instruments for sale |
MessageMike;
Do you have any of these instruments left? I am at the stage where I am
putting together my panel and could use some of them. Let me know
please.
Thanks;
David Tracy
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Kraus
To: RV-4 List
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2006 8:57 PM
Subject: RV4-List: RV-4 Instruments for sale
I have some instruments for sale that I took out of my RV-4 that some
of you may be interested in.
All instruments have about 169 hours on them. I will pay for FedEx
ground freight, if you would like a different shipping method then it
will be additional.
RV-4 Air Speed gauge - UMA Airspeed PN 16-310-241D - $160 new, Asking
$125
-- this gauge is premarked with the bands for an RV-4, this is the
one recommended from Van's
UMA 1.25" engine instruments - Perfect for the small RV-4 panel -
Price is $119 new, asking $83 each
-- CHT gauge
-- EGT gauge
-- Oil Pressure gauge
-- Oil Temp
-- Fuel Pressure
-- Voltage
(2) Van's fuel gauges - $20 each
(1) Manifold pressure gauge - $15 (no sender, you will have to order
one from Van's)
Garmin 295 color GPS, all original accy's, extra power cords,
manuals, and original box along with a custom
mount to flush mount into an instrument panel - asking $600
Smart Coupler II LE $250 new, asking $180
Please e-mail me if interested.
Thanks,
-Mike Kraus
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rust in Flap Weldment |
Manual flaps really pay off in this situation, you can retract the remaining flap
very fast!
RR
arvil@bellsouth.net wrote:
Thats good to know that there is enough aileron to counter
it with out going up side down, in the event one side gave
completely away on final before you had time to get them back
up again I've repaired several handle brackets where they
tore at the tube intersection weld , this is caused by
putting the flaps down at speeds over 100 mph. I repaired
the black RV-4 of Charlie Duncans at around 800 hours, He
has a habit of putting them down at 100mph
Van, states the white arc is at 100 but I found that if you
stick the nose up for just a minute and bring the speed down
to 80 mph it's less pressure putting them down and a hole lot
better on the flaps from a stress stand point,and for sure
the tube should be zinc-chromated inside to help prevent corrosion.
rob ray wrote:
>
> I had split flaps on a 4 I was checking out and had plenty
> of aileron to counteract it...
>
> Note: forwarded message attached.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Next-gen email? Have it all with the all-new Yahoo! Mail
> Beta.
>
> -----------------------------------------------------
>
> Subject: RV4-List: Rust in Flap Weldment
> Date: Fri, 4 Aug 2006 21:37:03 -0700
> From: John DeCuir
> To: rv4-list@matronics.com
>
> --> RV4-List message posted by: John DeCuir
>
> This is a warning for older RV owners and builders. I am the third
> owner of an RV-4, kit #21, finished about 1990. The aircraft is well
> maintained, frequently inspected and flown regularly; at least since
> I've owned it (3 years now). With a little over 600 hours on the
> airframe and engine, she's had her share of problems seen on this list:
> cracks in rudder skins, etc. Nothing major.
> Thursday, returning home from work, I dropped the flaps (electric)
> on final, and felt myself holding right aileron to counteract a
> constant roll to the left. It was bumpy, but it felt weird. I visually
> scanned both wings, ( expecting to see a gremlin tearing skin off the
> wing?) and noticed that the left flap appeared less extended than the
> right. I centered the stick for a moment, thinking that the aileron
> position might be creating an illusion. It still looked hinky. I
> concentrated on the landing, which was trickier than normal due to the
> roll correction and a crosswind.
> Clear of the runway, I centered the stick and eyeballed the flap
> position again. They looked normal now! I must be going nuts, I
> thought.
> Flaps up, taxi to hanger, scratch my head. Something told me to look
> again, so I lowered the flaps, measured position each side, scratched
> some more. I pulled up on the left flap with my hand, and it moved! A
> lot! The more pressure applied, the farther it moved, as much as an
> inch at the trailing edge.
> I yanked out the seat and studied the weldment. It looked fine,
> paint intact, clean, no obstructions stuck under it, bushings and
> rod-ends secure. I pulled up on the arm connected to the left flap, and
> it just had too much give! Then I noticed the slightest wrinkle in the
> paint on the main tube, about 4" inboard from the left arm. I felt
> underneath the tube near the wrinkle, and felt something sharp. Time to
> remove the shirt & tie and break out some tools.
> After removing the weldment I found the problem. The bottom of the
> tube was perforated with rust, starting inside and working out until
> there was nothing left but paint! The torque under load was twisting
> the weakest area, and starting to tear and crack. After removing the
> teflon ends, I tapped out a handful of flakes!
> I'm guessing 17 years of condensation sneaking in the vent holes,
> no drain hole in the tube and, apparently, no corrosion protection
> applied at construction eventually took it's toll on that thin steel.
> Now I find myself imagining all the possible outcomes to a more sudden,
> timely failure ( Snap-roll at flare?).
>
> Something to add to that annual condition checklist, fellas.
>
> john
>
>
>
>
>
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