Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:49 AM - Re: Aileron hinge (dean van winkle)
2. 10:01 AM - Re: Aileron hinge (Dave von Linsowe)
3. 10:49 AM - [ Ollie Washburn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
4. 11:38 AM - Re: Aileron hinge ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron hinge |
--> RV6-List message posted by: "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Dave
I took another good look at my RV-9A flap and aileron hinge brackets. The
approach that I described would work readily for the bronze ( oilite ? )
bushings in the external hinge brackets for the slotted flaps. However, my
aileron hinge brackets are of the same type construction as you described,
and consist of a sandwich of 2 pieces of .125 sheet. The bearing centerline
on mine is approx 3 inches from supporting structure. I believe that by
removing the 2 rivets close to the bearing plus the 2 rivets in the aileron
up stop in the inboard bracket, that the 2 parts could be carefully flexed
apart just enough to remove/replace the bearing without causing any
permanent deformation. If the distance on yours is much less than 3 inches,
I think that the whole bracket would probably have to come off to separate
the parts. Please note that I don't have an RV-6 close by to look at.
Best Regards Dean
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Aileron hinge
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
>
> Dean,
>
> I got out my high powered bifocals and cleaned up the bearing to take a
> look. The hinge bracket coming off the wing is two pieces sandwiched and
> riveted together. They are counter bored for the bearing to nest in. The
> counter bores (each side) are too big in diameter and too deep. From what
I
> can tell the bearing is not pressed in or staked in from one side or the
> other. It looks like the pieces were counter bored and the bearing
> installed between them, then they were riveted together. I don't believe
> that the bearing can be removed without drilling out the rivets and
> separating the two pieces.
>
> Dave
>
>
> > Dave
> >
> > I don't know whether your aileron hinge bearings are similar to the ones
> on
> > my RV-9A or not. In any case, a common shop trick to remove/replace
> > bearings in place is to use a socket or bushing that is smaller than the
> > bracket ID on one side and a socket large enough to clear the bearing on
> the
> > other side and a bolt or piece of threaded rod will work as a press for
> > removal. Reverse the process for installation. If the replacement
> bearing
> > is a uniball type as mine is, be careful that the bushing/socket only
> > presses against the outer rim so as not to damage the bearing itself.
The
> > same caution would apply to ball or roller bearing replacement by this
> > method. Hope this helps.
> >
> > Dean Van Winkle
> > RV-9A Fuselage
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
> > To: "RV6-list" <rv6-list@matronics.com>; <RV-6and6A@yahoogroups.com>;
> > <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV6-List: Aileron hinge
> >
> >
> > > --> RV6-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
> > >
> > > Help! I recently noticed that both inboard aileron hinges have a
little
> > > slop that has me concerned.
> > >
> > > The source of the movement is the fit between the pivot
bushing/bearing
> > and
> > > the hinge bracket on the wing. Looks to be .015"-.020" radially and
> .030"
> > > axially. I have the means to manufacture an oversized bushing to
> > eliminate
> > > the play, but my question is. Can the bushing be removed without
> removing
> > > hinge bracket from the wing? Or is there some other method of
> tightening
> > up
> > > the bushing?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Dave
> > > RV-6
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron hinge |
--> RV6-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
Thanks Dean.
I was thinking the same thing. Although, once I get the bearing out then
what? I guess I could turn up a sleeve for the bearing.
Depending on what Van's says, I'm thinking gap filling Loctite applied with
a syringe and something to block it from the race. The only problem is with
our heat wave the high today is going to be 22...
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Aileron hinge
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
>
> Dave
>
> I took another good look at my RV-9A flap and aileron hinge brackets. The
> approach that I described would work readily for the bronze ( oilite ? )
> bushings in the external hinge brackets for the slotted flaps. However,
my
> aileron hinge brackets are of the same type construction as you described,
> and consist of a sandwich of 2 pieces of .125 sheet. The bearing
centerline
> on mine is approx 3 inches from supporting structure. I believe that by
> removing the 2 rivets close to the bearing plus the 2 rivets in the
aileron
> up stop in the inboard bracket, that the 2 parts could be carefully flexed
> apart just enough to remove/replace the bearing without causing any
> permanent deformation. If the distance on yours is much less than 3
inches,
> I think that the whole bracket would probably have to come off to separate
> the parts. Please note that I don't have an RV-6 close by to look at.
>
> Best Regards Dean
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
> To: <rv6-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV6-List: Aileron hinge
>
>
> > --> RV6-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
> >
> > Dean,
> >
> > I got out my high powered bifocals and cleaned up the bearing to take a
> > look. The hinge bracket coming off the wing is two pieces sandwiched
and
> > riveted together. They are counter bored for the bearing to nest in.
The
> > counter bores (each side) are too big in diameter and too deep. From
what
> I
> > can tell the bearing is not pressed in or staked in from one side or the
> > other. It looks like the pieces were counter bored and the bearing
> > installed between them, then they were riveted together. I don't
believe
> > that the bearing can be removed without drilling out the rivets and
> > separating the two pieces.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > I don't know whether your aileron hinge bearings are similar to the
ones
> > on
> > > my RV-9A or not. In any case, a common shop trick to remove/replace
> > > bearings in place is to use a socket or bushing that is smaller than
the
> > > bracket ID on one side and a socket large enough to clear the bearing
on
> > the
> > > other side and a bolt or piece of threaded rod will work as a press
for
> > > removal. Reverse the process for installation. If the replacement
> > bearing
> > > is a uniball type as mine is, be careful that the bushing/socket only
> > > presses against the outer rim so as not to damage the bearing itself.
> The
> > > same caution would apply to ball or roller bearing replacement by this
> > > method. Hope this helps.
> > >
> > > Dean Van Winkle
> > > RV-9A Fuselage
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
> > > To: "RV6-list" <rv6-list@matronics.com>; <RV-6and6A@yahoogroups.com>;
> > > <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: RV6-List: Aileron hinge
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV6-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
> > > >
> > > > Help! I recently noticed that both inboard aileron hinges have a
> little
> > > > slop that has me concerned.
> > > >
> > > > The source of the movement is the fit between the pivot
> bushing/bearing
> > > and
> > > > the hinge bracket on the wing. Looks to be .015"-.020" radially and
> > .030"
> > > > axially. I have the means to manufacture an oversized bushing to
> > > eliminate
> > > > the play, but my question is. Can the bushing be removed without
> > removing
> > > > hinge bracket from the wing? Or is there some other method of
> > tightening
> > > up
> > > > the bushing?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Dave
> > > > RV-6
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | [ Ollie Washburn ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV6-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Ollie Washburn <ollie-6a@prodigy.net>
Subject: RV Tow Bars...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/ollie-6a@prodigy.net.01.25.2003/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures@matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron hinge |
--> RV6-List message posted by: <tgreene5@cinci.rr.com>
How about having Van replace the part, if it isn't right? What did they say
about it?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Aileron hinge
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
>
> Thanks Dean.
>
> I was thinking the same thing. Although, once I get the bearing out then
> what? I guess I could turn up a sleeve for the bearing.
>
> Depending on what Van's says, I'm thinking gap filling Loctite applied
with
> a syringe and something to block it from the race. The only problem is
with
> our heat wave the high today is going to be 22...
>
> Dave
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "dean van winkle" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
> To: <rv6-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV6-List: Aileron hinge
>
>
> > --> RV6-List message posted by: "dean van winkle"
<dvanwinkle@royell.net>
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > I took another good look at my RV-9A flap and aileron hinge brackets.
The
> > approach that I described would work readily for the bronze ( oilite ? )
> > bushings in the external hinge brackets for the slotted flaps. However,
> my
> > aileron hinge brackets are of the same type construction as you
described,
> > and consist of a sandwich of 2 pieces of .125 sheet. The bearing
> centerline
> > on mine is approx 3 inches from supporting structure. I believe that by
> > removing the 2 rivets close to the bearing plus the 2 rivets in the
> aileron
> > up stop in the inboard bracket, that the 2 parts could be carefully
flexed
> > apart just enough to remove/replace the bearing without causing any
> > permanent deformation. If the distance on yours is much less than 3
> inches,
> > I think that the whole bracket would probably have to come off to
separate
> > the parts. Please note that I don't have an RV-6 close by to look at.
> >
> > Best Regards Dean
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
> > To: <rv6-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV6-List: Aileron hinge
> >
> >
> > > --> RV6-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
> > >
> > > Dean,
> > >
> > > I got out my high powered bifocals and cleaned up the bearing to take
a
> > > look. The hinge bracket coming off the wing is two pieces sandwiched
> and
> > > riveted together. They are counter bored for the bearing to nest in.
> The
> > > counter bores (each side) are too big in diameter and too deep. From
> what
> > I
> > > can tell the bearing is not pressed in or staked in from one side or
the
> > > other. It looks like the pieces were counter bored and the bearing
> > > installed between them, then they were riveted together. I don't
> believe
> > > that the bearing can be removed without drilling out the rivets and
> > > separating the two pieces.
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > >
> > > > Dave
> > > >
> > > > I don't know whether your aileron hinge bearings are similar to the
> ones
> > > on
> > > > my RV-9A or not. In any case, a common shop trick to remove/replace
> > > > bearings in place is to use a socket or bushing that is smaller than
> the
> > > > bracket ID on one side and a socket large enough to clear the
bearing
> on
> > > the
> > > > other side and a bolt or piece of threaded rod will work as a press
> for
> > > > removal. Reverse the process for installation. If the replacement
> > > bearing
> > > > is a uniball type as mine is, be careful that the bushing/socket
only
> > > > presses against the outer rim so as not to damage the bearing
itself.
> > The
> > > > same caution would apply to ball or roller bearing replacement by
this
> > > > method. Hope this helps.
> > > >
> > > > Dean Van Winkle
> > > > RV-9A Fuselage
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Dave von Linsowe" <davevon@tir.com>
> > > > To: "RV6-list" <rv6-list@matronics.com>;
<RV-6and6A@yahoogroups.com>;
> > > > <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > > Subject: RV6-List: Aileron hinge
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > --> RV6-List message posted by: "Dave von Linsowe"
<davevon@tir.com>
> > > > >
> > > > > Help! I recently noticed that both inboard aileron hinges have a
> > little
> > > > > slop that has me concerned.
> > > > >
> > > > > The source of the movement is the fit between the pivot
> > bushing/bearing
> > > > and
> > > > > the hinge bracket on the wing. Looks to be .015"-.020" radially
and
> > > .030"
> > > > > axially. I have the means to manufacture an oversized bushing to
> > > > eliminate
> > > > > the play, but my question is. Can the bushing be removed without
> > > removing
> > > > > hinge bracket from the wing? Or is there some other method of
> > > tightening
> > > > up
> > > > > the bushing?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Dave
> > > > > RV-6
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
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