Today's Message Index:
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1. 07:23 AM - Re: Vetterman Exhaust (Brian Holman)
2. 08:34 PM - I have an O-320 D1A, 200 hours TTSN, asking $16k (C. Rabaut)
Message 1
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<rv6-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Re: Vetterman Exhaust |
--> RV6-List message posted by: "Brian Holman" <bholman@iinet.net.au>
Hi Russ, your very close to my set up!! I used a piece of stainless angle I
made myself instead of the flat bar, used the original clamps on the tube
but added a 4130 * .032 saddle to go over the original clamps, bolted both
sides of each exhaust. Then welded a 2 small pieces of stainless 3/8' inch
tube with belled ends vertically to the angle to take the supplied oxygen
hose. I took about 2" s of 1" stainless tube, split it lengthwise and
welded a 1" piece of 3/8" stainless tube with belled ends at right angles to
each of these pieces. These I clamped to the 1" cross member on the engine
mount using small stainless hose clamps. The supplied oxygen hose was used
to join the tubes. It is very secure and looks good, but I don't know how
this would adapt itself to the RV6 A as there is no cross member from
memory.
On a related issue, I have welded a 3/4" tube into the exhaust and led my
crankcase breather into it. The 3/4 tube is 4" long and both ends are cut
off square. The tube is welded into the exhaust at a 45 degree angle. This
set-up can lead to a problem !! The oil carbonises at the end of the tube
and can block the breather,as someone else found out for me!! I foresaw this
as a possible problem and to prevent any danger I drilled a 3/8" hole in the
top of the tube 2"s up from the exhaust on the top. Therefore if the tube
gets blocked at the exhaust end it can breath through this hole. The
exhaust produces a very slight vacuum overall though it pulses on each
firing and due to the 3/8" hole it keeps the top end of the 3/4" tube very
cool so I only use ordinary hose to the breather. With the hole in the top
mine has not blocked at the exhaust but I know that without it, it will. I
have 95 hours on a new engine with this set-up and no problems and only
wiped the belly twice and this due to a leak on the gasket of the governor.
Original Message -----
From: "Russ Alnutt" <rsalnutt@inreach.com>
Subject: Re: RV6-List: Vetterman Exhaust
> --> RV6-List message posted by: "Russ Alnutt" <rsalnutt@inreach.com>
>
> Use a 1/8" by 3/4" wide flat strap and mount it across the two tubes using
> the original clamps. Bend a piece of the same strap at a 90 degree bend,
> weld to the cross strap and drill a hole at the top of the 90 degree bend.
> Use an automotive rubber strap and attach to the cross tube behind engine
> and clamp with an adell clamp. I have had mine on for three years with no
> problems. Oh by the way, I never used Vettermans exhaust mounting kit
right
> from the start.
>
> Russ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Holman" <bholman@iinet.net.au>
> To: <rv6-list@matronics.com>; <mcomeaux@bendnet.com>
> Subject: Re: RV6-List: Vetterman Exhaust
>
>
> > --> RV6-List message posted by: "Brian Holman" <bholman@iinet.net.au>
> >
> > Don't bother with the drawings for the exhaust support. The supports
> shown
> > are a joke, almost anything you come up with will last longer, the
pieces
> of
> > steel tube supplied (steel fuel line I think) crack in no time and the
> > clamps on the exhaust don't clamp!
> > If you link the two exhaust ends together fairly rigidly and then
support
> > them very flexibly from above off the engine mount, they should last
well.
> > Remember that the engine rotates about the axis of the crankshaft quite
> > violently at start up. (approx. 5/8" in each direction when measured at
> the
> > rocker boxes and much the same at the attach point of the exhaust, when
> > using a metal prop) This is why the standard intake airbox ( FAB 320
etc)
> > can lead to the carby bowl coming loose as happened to Ken at Van's and
to
> a
> > couple I know of. The rubber seal to the cowl is MUCH to rigid to allow
> for
> > the engine twist at start up, and also why the seal wont stay in place
on
> > many of the 6's.
> > PS The engine also moves about 5/8" down (measured at the alternator
> > pulley!) at about 3g with the standard dynafocal mounts. You will need
at
> > least 3/4" clearance off the pulley if you intend to do aero's with the
> > standard mounts and don't want the pulley to come through the cowl.
> > Photos attached, maybe!!
> >
> > Subject: RV6-List: Vetterman Exhaust
> >
> >
> > > --> RV6-List message posted by: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux@bendnet.com>
> > >
> > > Does anyone have a clear picture of the supports that attach
> > > to the exhaust system. The drawings are not real clear.
> > > Thanks in advance..
> >
> >
>
>
Message 2
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<rv6-list@matronics.com>, <rv4-list@matronics.com>,
<rv3-list@matronics.com>, <engines-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | I have an O-320 D1A, 200 hours TTSN, asking $16k |
--> RV6-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Hi Guys & Gals,
I've got a nice Lycoming O-320 D1A, 200 hours TTSN (total time since new),
with factory carb, mags, and more... asking $16-k to a good home, I'm located
in Coalinga California (middle of the state), I can't seem to get anyone in this
state, everyone who's interested is from "out-of-state". I can deliver within
reason. Give me a call or drop me an email if interested. Thanks,
Chuck
(559) 974-6733
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