Today's Message Index:
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1. 10:31 AM - "Wallow" (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
2. 12:14 PM - Re: "Wallow" (Tedd McHenry)
3. 09:44 PM - Re: rivet guns (Dean Psiropoulos)
Message 1
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--> RV6-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Geoff...
If "wallow" is the same as "clearance", I'm no expert, but I would like mine
to be zero.... In other words, a tight press fit. I'm sure someone will chime
in on this that knows what they're saying. It'll be interesting if they allow
any "wallow" at all.
Jerry Cochran
flying RV6a N254HL
Building RV6a N180XP
In a message dated 10/16/2003 12:02:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv6-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
> Does anyone know how much 'wallow' in the prop bolt holes is tolerable?
> Geoff
>
Message 2
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--> RV6-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
I think the original question was about prop bolts. I don't have an answer,
but here's some theory to put the question in perspective.
Theoretically, the annular clearance around the bolt shouldn't matter, so long
as it's not so much that there's insufficient bearing area under the head of
the bolt. If the bolts are properly torqued they don't see any shear load at
all, all the shear load being transmitted through the mating surface of the
prop to the prop flange. In other words, the bolts act as clamps, not pins.
However, should the bolts come loose they will be exposed to torsional loads,
including torsional shock loads, for which they weren't designed. Keeping the
clearance down will minimize those loads, and so it's a good idea for that
reason. This is more likely to be a problem with a wood prop.
---
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 3
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--> RV6-List message posted by: "Dean Psiropoulos" <deanpsir@easystreet.com>
John:
I have just finished doing 99% of the metal work on my RV-6A (all aluminum
structures together and working on canopy install). I bought an Avery tool
kit about 6 years ago when I started this thing and it was ONLY $1100.0 back
then (now its about $1600). I used the included air drill somewhat but it
uses a lot of air to run and I have one of those noisy oiless compressors so
I got tired of listening to it, especially when drilling stuff like the 200
holes in the 1/8 inch thick longerons on the fuselage. For the most part
I've used a 12 volt Dewalt battery drill that I got from Home Depot for
$129.00 (it comes with two batteries and they charge fast enough for you
never to run out of juice). I'm not all that excited about air drills but
if ya got one go ahead and use it. If you have a good electric drill or
battery drill they work just fine too.
I've used a 2x rivet gun for almost everything. I turn the pressure way
down (to around 40 PSI) when riveting skins and always use a swivel head
rivet set on the gun (I've had good luck with this approach although I've
found that one has to have the part held solidly and, when using the gun,
brace yourself in a fashion that will keep the gun from slipping and hold it
solidly against the work). A friend wanted to back rivet his wing skins so
he made a large bucking bar (by putting handle on a large hunk of iron) and
borrowed my offset back rivet tool. But we found that it was harder to get
a nice shop head because the back rivet set is at an angle to the rivet.
There are a few times when I have needed and used a 3X gun. This was in
areas where I had to set rivets holding together 3/8 to 1/4 inch of metal
(this is in areas where the fuselage longerons meet up with the steel
weldments of the motor mounts and in the front area of the fuselage where
there is lots of thick metal). The problem comes in when you don't get the
rivet sufficiently driven on the first or second try, then it work hardens
so much that a smaller gun doesn't have enough oomph (the surrounding thick
metal absorbs too much of the guns energy instead of passing to the rivet).
So you should get along just fine with a 2x gun, I run mine at 60 pounds for
1/8 inch rivets and 40 for skin rivets (for the thick metal I'll run it up
to maximum and try to drive the rivet in one pass).
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A 24907
Finsh kit, canopy oh boy
PS: I just noticed you said quick build, there should be no need for
anything larger than the 2x for anything you do on a quick build. Happy
building, when you get your QB kit you'll already be where it took me 5
years to get to by assembling the small parts.
Time: 02:21:16 PM PST US
From: <jwbrunk@attglobal.net>
Subject: RV6-List: Rivet guns
--> RV6-List message posted by: <jwbrunk@attglobal.net>
I already looked in the archives and read all there is on drills and rivet
guns. Some of it is a little dated, so I was curious about some particular
items.
Drills: Is there a minimum RPM you would look for?
Is having the drill reversable something you would look for? Are the higer
end drills (Sioux, etc) that much quieter and better running?
As for rivet guns: To build a quick build kit, can I get by on the 2X for
most of my needs? The archives vary in opinion on this as I'm sure some of
you will.
I don't want to spend a fortune on tools, BUT I would rather buy a better
tool once, then buy several over the years.
Looking for advice,
Thanks in advance,
John Brunke
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