Today's Message Index:
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1. 01:21 AM - Re : plenum sealing.. (Martin Hone)
2. 03:58 PM - Plemum design (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
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Subject: | Re : plenum sealing.. |
--> RV6-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
Hi Norman,
I made an enclosed plenum using the Van's Baffle Kit, but added my own
aluminum cover plate.
The inlets use baffle rubber/silicone seals bent around the shape of the
upper cowl so as to form a seal similar to the lower cowl seals. None of
them are particularly efficient or even attractive, but they are effective
enough, and I have had absolutely no cooling problems, even with a factory
new engine and 45 degree C days ( over 100 deg F) Make sure you seal all the
other gaps with hi-temp silicone and you will be fine. I added small dams
in front of the cylinders to even out the temps, but the front left baffle
mounted oil cooler keeps the oil too cool most days.
Martin in Oz
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Subject: RV6-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/24/05
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Total Messages Posted Mon 01/24/05: 1
Today's Message Index:
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1. 07:31 AM - plenum design (Normanjd@aol.com)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 07:31:11 AM PST US
From: Normanjd@aol.com
Subject: RV6-List: plenum design
--> RV6-List message posted by: Normanjd@aol.com
I am constructing an aluminum plenum using photos obtained on this website.
The photos did not show how to seal between the plenum and cowl inlets on my
RV6 cowl. I am using the standard RV6 cowl. I would appreciate some photos
of
how you have transitioned and sealed the area. I think a lower seal of
rubber is easy enough but how do you attach the upper seal?
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
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--> RV6-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
Norman,
I just finished my aluminum plenum. Worked out really nice. I don't have
pictures yet, but perhaps a brief written answer to your asking how to tie the
cowl in will help.
On the lower cowl I made a removable rubber strip which screws under the
inlet and up each side ("U" shaped). Under the rubber strip is an aluminum
backing strip with four nutplates. The four #6 countersunk stainless steel screws
(each side with no tinnerman washers) and the backing strip remain attached to
the lower cowl at all times. The lower cowl is installed without the rubber
strip. Once installed the rubber strip is slipped in between the lower edge of
the inlet and the backing strip. The rubber strip has "V's" cut in it to
guide in around the screws and center it properly. Then the screws (unpainted
stainless steel) are tightened before the top cowl is installed holding the
rubber strip tightly in place.
The top cowl air intake opening has a similar rubber strip and backing plate
with nutplates, except it remains permanently in place (with cad plated and
painted #6 countersunk screws). It just goes across the top (not down the
sides) of the opening. On both the top and bottom cowl the rubber is on the
underside of the inlets of the cowl and rests on the inside of the aluminum making
up the baffles and plenum. Therefore, when installing the top cowl I must use
my finger tips to pull the rubber down into the inside (underside) of the
plenum.
My baffling and plenum come within one quarter inch of the inside (rear) edge
of the cowl inlet. It was a lot of work, but I have a beautiful fit with
room for the engine to vibrate around the rubber seals. Good luck
Pete in Clearwater
RV-6 N216PH,
Getting ready to start engine
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